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Old School

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Description

This area is down the gorge a bit further than the Kindergarten wall. This area has some great lines with cool movement.

An obvious landmark to tell whether you are going a right way is a yellowish zip-line platform. The sector is located right below.

Access issues inherited from Yerevan

Watch out vipers while walking down the gorge

Approach

There're two ways to get there:

  1. Go past a Spitak rescue center along a concrete fence then go down to the gorge, walk past a concrete drainage and proceed on the slightly worn trail until you reach a yellowish zip line platform. One may find this hike sketchy and slightly tiring as the trail follows a pretty high loose cliff and you have to go up and down a few times.

  2. You can also enter a Spitak rescue center cite if the door is open (nobody would really mind you being there the staff is very kind) then go along the cliff until you reach a concrete fence. Cross it through a huge gap and walk along a narrow trail towards a zip line platform. This way leads you directly to the sector so you don't expect having a steep hike like in the first case and can save some time.

Routes

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Grade Route

An amazing line with great rock! Sit start on a left facing side pull with high feet on good black rock. Make a hard move up to a sloping side pull, then reach out right to another small side pull. Make a big move up to a small crimp up/right. Then make an awesome pogo/ jump move to a big and very good diagonal edge. Same finish as Shadows and Dust (Hike your left foot up and grab the undercling and stand up to a jug, traverse left to a ledge)

To find it walk to the left end of the Old school wall. Climb up 5 feet to a small ledge (Where The Wire starts) and follow the cliff line to the end. Shadows and Kung-Fu are located right there before you turn the corner. Directly to the right of Shadows and Dust. The starting side pull is at the same level as the sit start of Shadows and Dust.

FA: Luca Keushguerian, 3 Sep 2019

Sit start the crack and lay back up to a nice large flat edge. Make a move or two on good edges then tackle the crux. The crux requires a high left foot to stand up into an undercling above your head. Slap the jug right above it. Then traverse easily off left.

To find it walk to the left end of the Old school wall. Climb up 5 feet to a small ledge (Where The Wire starts) and follow the cliff line to the end. Shadows and The Kung Fu Method are located right there before you turn the corner. This is the middle/obvious crack at the end of the cliff line.

Go past Seven to the left and here you are. There's an obvious crack line around the corner.

Natural anchor.

Climb the arete with a bit of exposure

Set: Tim Makariev

Hard starting moves that gradually get easier.

2 bolt anchor, no chain.

Start from a big jug and climb up to the roof where you find a savage bouldery crux to go past. Then you come to a slabby technical part and a traverse section after a 4-th quickdraw that joins the route with Blue Gray Fun

You'd better bring either a second rope or 3-4 extensible quickdraws to avoid a massive rope drag after the traverse.

2-bolt anchor without a chain.

Technical moves off the ground that move up into a pocketed face.

2-bolt anchor without a chain.

Climb up the fragile rock countering a distinct crux. Would be best to wear a helmet

Set: Stas Mikhailov

Lower crux to easier top

Set: Tim Makariev

Dirty start leads to friable holds. Wear a helmet

Set: Stas Mikhailov

Bouldery start leads to easier climbing

Set: Tim Makariev

Boulder start to a small runout on chossy rock, to a small bulge at the top.

Set: Tim Makariev

Dirty and loose the whole way up. Wear a helmet.

Set: Stas Mikhailov

Set: Stas M

They say it used to be a dry tooling route. Some may find a section between 4th and 5th quickdraws a bit tricky and slightly commiting as there are loose holds and a huge but slopy right foot. You'll find yourself in a good stemming position right after, though.

There's a 2-bolt anchor without any rings so you'd better clean the route on a top-rope and remove the anchor after topping out. It's safe as the shelf at the top is huge.

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Fri 2 Jun
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