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Duck Crag

  • Grade context: AU

Description

Short, south-facing overhung orange wall just right of the top of Agent Orange.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Little jam-crack on left.

FA: Kirsty Hamilton, 1993

Bold line 3 metres right of 'Duck Crack'. Alternative finish is to diagonal 2 metres right to flake.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Obvious traverse line.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Supposed to be good.

From loose block on ground, up to horizontal, step right and up shallow. left-facing corner.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Fear of being watched by ducks!

From block swing right to flake, up.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Start at big jug down left of 'Anatadaephobia' (place a couple of wires in this for protection). Up to horizontal break

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 8 Sep 2018

Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Sep 2018

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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