Routes in The Pharos for selected grade

This line must climb quite poorly for it not to get any stars - because the wall looks fantastic! Start 3m L of 'Social Comment', 20m R of 'Rush Hour'. Thin crack thru bulge to ledge. Up past BR, go L then back R and join Birdman on ledge. R up groove past BR.

Thin seam, cross Birdman to join Bad. Undercling L under roof to hanging corner, then L below bulge to finish up crack (BR).

Start: Start 2.5m L of Birdman.

The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney.

In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected (possibly more so since a block broke off it). Gee it looks good though. Start 2m R of India, up the tough corner, across CoC and up a steep little crack finish to lower offs.

Start on Coming on Chris and then at the crossroad with Nose Job follow it right for a much harder finish.

Probably about the same grade as Nose Job because on both variants you get a good rest before the hardest section, but the first section on this variant is easier.

Four bolts on the wall right of Spasm. Don't bridge at the start but do bridge the finish.

Pumpy, balancy, and technical.

1. (23) From the 1st belay of Horus, start as for the second pitch of that route, but instead of moving right to the trad line, follow the bolts left up the gorgeous orange wall through crimps and a scoop, until the roof anchor of Horus.

2. (24) Powerful committing roof climbing leading to an easy finish straight up to a rap station. Follow the bolts out the right side of the roof.

Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Steep thuggery to awkward topout. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off.

Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018.

From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground).

Exposed and daring with a run-out second pitch in exciting territory.

Start: Start as for "Second Coming"

1. 22m (22) As for "Breaking Glass".

2. 20m (24) Up twin cracks and over bulge. Move right and mantle small ledge. Up right to dodgy pin (backup with #5 RP), then right and up wall to ledge. 30 metre rappel. (Pin has been replaced with a bolt)

Intimidating finale. The first pitch was retro-bolted and de-bolted, but currently has 1 FH. Start on top of the great flake that leans against the south corner of the Pharos.

1. 15m (21) From top of giant flake go left past FH to bald arete and up this to ledge.

2. 10m (22) Face and tiny corner 1 metre right of pitch 2 of "Trojan".

3. 15m (24R) Step right and climb serious, closed, pocketed seam 2 metres left of arete then continue up face.

Technically 23 but a runout above the roof has led to the grade being inflated. A great outing on the South Face, starting off the ledge of the finish to Dazed and Confused. Worth noting that this was established onsight by the first ascentionist.