Routes in Medlow Bath for selected grade

Start in scoop on the blunt arete. Use the undercling to do some tings.

Start on good holds, through undercling and big move to edges. Powerful.

Link Half Hour Haircut into the reversed traverse. Pumpy start leads to easier finish. Giving this a boulder grade doesn't seem useful, but no harder than V4

Short intense bouldery little number. Bit of a one-move-wonder ...

Just left of Running Gun Blues is this overhung orange wall with prominent flake feature in the middle. The line was bolted some time in the '80/90s with bash-in carrots and hangerless expansion bolts but didn't appear to have been climbed (lots of loose rock). It has now been cleaned, rebolted and brought back to life. Crux can be done two ways - the left version is easier but more spicy.

A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt.

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a mix of gear and bolts. Take a full rack. Can lower off from the top with a 70m rope.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5.

Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack (shared with TWotF). Up hand crack and break left where crack splits (TWotF continues more directly up and right), and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

This route has recently been re-jigged by the FA. The lower pitch is now the easiest route here, and surprisingly great climbing. The upper pitch has had some bolt positions moved, and a broken pocket repaired, and consists of some wild cranking.

1. 25m (21) Start up the easy slab a few metres left of Life of Riley. Left at ledge, then up via technical and steep face moves to first anchor.

2. 12m (25) Trend right to vibrant orange streak over the void. Very hard moves up pockets in the streak (easier with small fingers) to a fun pocketed finale.

NOTE: THIS ROUTE HAS BEEN CHOPPED BY THE FA AND IS NO LONGER CLIMBABLE. This historical route will remain listed here for the sake of the existing ascents.

Super-sustained climbing, tackling the most intense bits of Being and Nothingness and Buckley's Chance on the best rock.

Start up Life of Riley and continue up Buckley's Chance. Put a long sling on the 10th bolt (where the corner arches back right), step left and put a long sling on the bolt under the rooflet of Being and Nothingness, and blast up the mega headwall with increasing difficulty to a final reachy and very committing finale.

The grand classic of this wall. One of the best routes of this style in the mountains. Rebolted 2004.

This is the splitter crack out the humungous roofs. Very well protected with various sizes of cams. Has a double ring bolt lower off.

Bouldery start off the diving board. Grungy top section.

Start up the bouldery start of The River Styx, traverse about 8m left to finish at a U-bolt and fixed wire just up on the headwall.

The long traverse starting as for The River Styx, then finishing at the anchors of Prohibition. Great jugging along the break.

Stunning steep face climbing, but rather committing.

Starts on the cliffline directly below where the access track to pole 28 splits (to either the left, or right side). Walk 30m downhill to the obvious rocky buttress.

Find the rap anchors on the rock buttress, rap down 5m to the belay at the top of the pitch. Re-direct the rap rope, and abseil down the "groove" in the direction of Reservoir Dogs/The Block, straight down the gray slab on the LEFT side of the arete (looking out), 30m to the belay on the triangular ledge.

Climb up from the ledge, move left along the break and out through the roof. Clip the bolt past the lip of the roof, and commit to the intimidating crux, with sustained hard moves throughout the runout straight up the wall (avoid straying off right on moss and friable rock) until the next bolt. Up vague seam on good rock (avoid moss out right) to rest. Dyno off ledge, and straight up the guts of the turret-headwall on spaced bolts, with sustained thin and technical climbing all the way to the belay.

Bring up Second, then scramble back up the initial 5m rap (consider roping up, or backing-up the scramble off the abseil rope).

If you are unable to complete the pitch, either Jumaar up the abseil rope, or you can rap again (35m) from the belay on the ledge to the ground, and find the exit gully by following the cliffline around to the left (looking out) as for the Three Brothers area.

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

Last the roof routes on the right edge of the cave. Funky steepness. The mallions on 6th bolt are to protect your biner from the edge. Top seeps after rain.