North Grampians Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North Grampians 3,271 routes in Region

3 6 8 7 4 5 9 1 2 10 12 11 13 14

1 Mt Stapylton Campground 2 Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area 3 Mount Zero 4 Flat Rock 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre 6 Summerday Valley 7 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) 8 Iskra Crag 9 NE Mt Zero Range 10 The Rockwall Area 11 North-West Mt Difficult Range 12 Briggs Bluff Area 13 Eastern Mt Difficult Range 14 Asses Ears Area

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -37.055512, 142.408143

access issues

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

inherited from Grampians

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians

1.1. Mt Stapylton Campground 220 routes in Crag

12 1 2 3 5 10 11 7 9

1 Campground Boulders 2 Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs 3 Warden Wall 5 The Guardhouse 7 Sentinel Cave 9 I Forget Walls 10 Doddery Rock 11 Mt Pleasant 12 Titanic Boulder

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.926573, 142.390496

summary

Sports and Trad climbing in a pleasant setting.

© (nmonteith)

description

Most of the climbing is a pleasant walk down a shady gully heading South from Mt Stapylton Campground. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss

If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you're sport climbing, then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Make sure you use the toilets at the campground, and of course avoid all rock in the vicinity of the Cultural Art Site at the beginning of the walk.

© (nmonteith)

approach

All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track for twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point.

© (nmonteith)

where to stay

Mt Stapylton Campground

© (nmonteith)

1.1.1. Campground Boulders 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.921344, 142.387344

access issues

Update (Campground Boulders): As of April 2019, the landowner of the area which the campground boulders sits in has retracted permission for climbing at Campground Boulders. They cited rubbish and climbers not respecting the boundary to the remainder of their property as reasons for the closure. They may reopen access in future.

1.1.2. Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.927705, 142.384998

description

The laziest climbing option in the Grampians? The two minute walk-in is sure to attract the sort of climber who enjoys a sleep in, a siesta and an afternoon nap before bed time. This lozenge shaped outcrop would be useful for beginner to intermediate climbing instruction as it is within easy walking distance from the campsite, is about 12 metres high, has several good routes on reasonable rock offering natural protection, can be set up for abseiling, and can be down climbed at about grade 6 (about 2 metres right of the north arête on the west side). This pillar is now totally climbed out – don't even think about contriving a new route!

© (nmonteith)

access issues

A PV Designated Crag

© (nmonteith)

approach

Refer to map one level up. The obvious free standing pillar is located about 100m south of the carpark at the Cave of 'Ghosts' Aboriginal art site. You walk past this obvious pillar on the way to the other crags in this area.

You can climb at any time of day due to the circular nature of the pillar. Just pick a shady side. To descend there are 2 bolts with a ring to rappel off close to the top of Automatic Runway. There are no other bolts on the pillar.

© (nmonteith)

1.1.3. Warden Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.928433, 142.385731

description

Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

© (nmonteith)

1.1.4. Sentry Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A very small gritstone-like crag with limited quality climbing. Can be padded out with some of the other smaller crags in the area to make a good day out.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

Just up behind Warden Wall, which is a Designated crag.

© (nmonteith)

approach

Walk to Mini 'Castle Crag', then walk uphill eastwards up a broad gully through small rock terraces for about 150 metres to a small cliff with a narrow chimney near the left end. This is 'Sentry Wall'. Descent is either via the chimney, a gully due North of the chimney or at the southern end. Climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

1.1.5. The Guardhouse 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.928747, 142.389889

description

Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.

Shade until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down 'Little George' and 'Ranger Danger'.

© (nmonteith)

approach

As for Sentinel Cave, park at the Ngamadjidj Shelter carpark at Stapylton Campground. Take the right fork at the start of the Njamadjidj Shelter Circuit tourist walking track, and when it starts to loop back left take the dishevelled 4WD track to the right. Walk to the end of the low broken cliffline that borders the track on the left, and look for cairns up a grassy knoll (just before the road gets boggy).

Some rock cairns mark the way as the track meanders up beside the creek bed, but there is no good track (yet). Once you get to the crag itself scramble up ledges on the right and walk left to small fixed rope to get to base of wall. You can scramble up the grade 1 left hand side of the crag to reach the top if you wish. Be careful, the rock is shit and it's exposed!

Total approach time is 40 minutes if you know where the path goes and the track is visible.

© (nmonteith)

1.1.6. Sentry Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

A boulder cave 30m north of Sentinel Cave crag with only one established boulder.

approach

Follow approach to Sentinel Cave. Before scrambling up stacked rocks to fixed rope crag access, head 30-40 metres north to find boulder cave in clearing with right adjacent rock wall.

history

Not sure if this boulder has been climbed before. Obvious line with potential for 1-2 more climbs to be developed.

1.1.7. Sentinel Cave 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.932076, 142.389453

description

A rare cave climbing area that is outside of an SPA. One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by abseiling back out of the cave.

Beware the fixed line has a pretty bad core shot. Be careful.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

PV Designated Crag

© (nmonteith)

approach

Start at the Ngamadjidj Shelter carpark at Stapylton Campground. Take the right fork at the start of the Njamadjidj Shelter Circuit tourist walking track, and when it starts to loop back left keep an eye out for a dishevelled 4WD track to the right, from which you'll soon be able to see the cliff ahead. After about 8 minutes there is a cairned footpad on the left that winds up a hillside to a slot canyon with some boulder chokes. Scramble up this to arrive at the left side of the cliff; there is a rope to help with the traverse into the cave area.

GPS - 36.55.900s, 142.23.372e

© (nmonteith)

history

Discovered by Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan in 2003 on a cold wet winter's day of misery.

© (nmonteith)

1.1.8. Sentinel Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

A small vertical wall with two good sport routes, and some very average trad routes. This orange wall is located opposite 'Sentinel Cave', just 100m away on the other side of the access gully. The trad routes are further right. Afternoon sun.

© (nmonteith)

approach

Easiest access - As for the Sentinel cave approach to the access gully. Following the step across the small creek,turn left and walk up the rock ramp and follow a faint path to the wall.

© (nmonteith)

1.1.9. I Forget Walls 66 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.943208, 142.387489

description

A long and eclectic cliff hosting a great variety of easy to moderate sport and trad routes, walking distance from Stapylton Campground.

Be aware of potential loose rock and bring a brush and helmet as most lines are yet to see extensive traffic. All fixed protection is 316 stainless, has been installed with pure epoxy and carefully painted to minimise visual impact. All lines are equipped with rap rings or stainless clip and lower anchors with the intent of climbers rethreading rather than rappelling. If you are toproping a line please use your own draws at the anchor to reduce unnecessary wear on the fixed hardware. Packing a stick clip is worthwhile as some of the first bolts are fairly high off the deck.

The cliff generally faces West and most lines come into sun mid arvo, but there are always routes in the shade to be found on a warm afternoon. It’s a great place to be on a sunny winter arvo, but still very worthwhile if you pick a cooler day and get an early start in summer. Phone reception is a bit patchy on the walk in but ok once at the cliff.

There are still projects to be completed marked by tape on the first bolt. Stay off unless given explicit permission.

Parks Victoria (PV) have requested the use of appropriately coloured chalk in Gariwerd, please keep this in mind at IF.

approach

A half hour walk from Stapylton Campground thanks to an old vehicle track and the PV invasive wattle management work. Mostly on easy flat open woodland, with a short incline just before the cliff itself.

Start at the Ngamadjidj Shelter car park at Stapylton Campground. Take the right fork at the start of the Ngamadjidj Shelter Circuit tourist walking track, and when it starts to loop back left keep an eye out for a sandy 4WD track off to the right - the track that also heads to Sentinel & Guardhouse. Take this and continue along through a marshy section until it pops up a small bank and the obvious track peters out at a woodchipped clearing.

From here you can see Sentinel cave up the hill off to your left, instead go straight ahead up the valley bearing South. As the creek begins to bend right, keep heading up the left bank past a PV star picket and you will rejoin the again obvious 4WD track. This jeep track now follows the upper left bank above Potter Creek for 500m before dropping back down into the valley. Keep walking for 10ish minutes along the left side of the creek past a narrowing section until you find yourself approaching a thick and wide section of scrub stretching across the creek.

Plunge into the bush via a grass clearing (prominent huge burnt stump) off to the left 50m before the thicket at a marked track (approx gps: -36.935909,142.385252).

Continue South towards the crag for about 150m on an obvious game track through the scrub until you pop back out on open ground to the left of the creek.

Stay on the left bank of the creek and about 200m along pick up the marked trail branching off heading up SW towards the crag (approx gps: -36.939217,142.386044). After crossing a small intersecting creek, a large boulder lies ahead of the path where it forks. The right fork continues straight ahead across the hill and takes you to Brownie Points, the left track scoots steeply up the hill via switchbacks to the Bikram end of the main walls (turn right when you reach the cliff line proper).

There is a cairned trail opposite ‘Holey Diver’ that forks off down the hill at the slabby boulder and connects Brownie Points with the I Forget main cliff creating a circuit - see maps for more.

history

Adam Demmert and Joe Goding made the first recorded ascents on this cliff in 2008. Neither remembered what they climbed or what they called them, hence the name.

1.1.10. Doddery Rock 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.930001, 142.385868

description

A 4 sided block 10m high. About 40m. N of Mt. Pleasant. has an orange overhang at W end with 3 FH. It is also within the CV11 SPA.

approach

Head S from the circular car park, near the rock art site. Stapylton campground Until you are just past Mini Castle Crag, then veer right to grassy creek bed, following this S for 50m. then cross over creek bed. keep going S for another 5min. in open, flat terrain. Then come to Doddery Rock. Mt. Pleasant is another 40m. S.

1.1.11. Mt Pleasant 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.930639, 142.385482

description

Low to medium grades, good pro. great for beginners and top ropes.

access issues

This crag was singled out as closed in the draft GGLMP and is within the CV11 (Cultural Values) SPA. Might be best to climb elsewhere.

approach

Head S from the Stapylton car park, near rock art site. Until you are just past Mini Castle Crag. Then veer right to grassy creek bed and follow this S for 50m. Then cross the creek bed. Keep going S for another 5 min., in open flat terrain. You will come to Doddery Rock then Mt. Pleasant is another 40m. S.

Alt approach if creek is high - Take right fork of gravel track toward art site, cross creek near the parks vic sign with the photo of firefighters on it. Follow general direction of creek, skirt right around initial denser scrub then back to creek. Obvious outcrops up on your right aren't Mt Pleasant yet, keep going in direction of creek for another 400 or so metres and you should come across Doddery Rock with Mt P up on the hill behind.

1.1.12. Titanic Boulder 23 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.910842, 142.391108

description

A couple of boulders along side the Mt Stapylton walking track

approach

Walk ~2k from Stapylton Campground on Mt Stapylton walking track. Alternatively drive from campground to Pohlners Rd and turn right. Drive 400m to pullout where track crosses the road (signed). Follow the track away from the campground taking the left fork at 100m. The boulders are on the right about 500m further on.

1.2. Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area 166 routes in Area

1 5 15 16 6 14 11 10

1 Mount of Olives 5 Point 447 6 Bordel Buttress 10 The Unnamed Cliff 11 An Unnamed Cliff 14 The Olive Cave 15 Truckstop Wall 16 The Ravine

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.958354, 142.406186

description

Includes crags on the escarpment which runs south from the 'Mt Stapylton Campground', accessed from either Winfields Rd or Smiths Rd. The more southerly crags on this escarpment (Mt Emu and neighbors) are actually closer to Pohlners Track but have traditionally been written up as being accessed from Smiths Rd, and so they are included here. Double sets of locked gates were installed in February 2009 on either end of the sandy road, so you will now have to walk into these areas.

© (willmonks)

1.2.1. Mount of Olives 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -36.909178, 142.393257

description

A large tower of rock clearly visible from the Stapylton Campground. The main west facing cliffs are covered in thick moss, but the back north side has a good clean hidden wall - dubbed Shangri La.

The 'Mount of Olives' is an old area that has been ignored for thiry years. The spate of recent discoveries should raise a few eyebrows. A cliff dismissed as worthless that can produce a crop of middle-grade climbs to the first suitors probably has more to offer. The immense overhangs on the south face really warrant a serious look. The overhangs are large, lichenous and will be hard to bolt. If you're looking for a project, here it is.

© (willmonks)

approach

The cliff can be approached from above or below.

To approach from above, walk in past Point 447 along the stapylton loop trake. Parke at the gate on Puhlnars rd. It takes about 40 minutes but there's only 5 minutes of scrub and it's quite flat and it is a spectacular walk. You arrive warmed up but relaxed. Descend the gully on the NW side of the peak. A short abseil may be needed to access climbs right of 'The Third Man' (dangerous slab).

Alternatively, aproach from below using the walking track from the Stapylton campground where it crosses Pohlner's Road and cutting off up the hillside to the crag. This is rough and steep but not too bad if you keep to the right of the slabby areas below the outcrop. Walking time would be slightly less than the if coming from the top but it is decidedly more enervating.

© (willmonks)

1.2.2. The Rust Bucket 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Steep bouldery

description

PDF guide available here https://osp.com.au/?paged=3&s=Glenn+Tempest&submit_x=10&submit_y=9

ethic

Sport

1.2.3. Martini Rock 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.4. Worship Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.5. Point 447 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.911058, 142.406833

description

A good steep little crag on top of the range with a couple of new route options left.

© (willmonks)

access issues

Not far off the Peak's Trail... on the list of areas to review.

© (willmonks)

approach

Drive up Pohlner Track from the Stapylton Campground to a closed 4WD track on the left near the top of the range. Don't park in front of the gate: there is a good parking spot 100m further up the road. From the car-park the cliff appears as a steep block to the north. Follow the closed 4WD track for about 15 minutes and then turn left onto a walking track that takes you to the crag in a further 5 minutes.

Don't approach directly from the track when the cliff is first obvious: continue until just past the crag then walk in to the left end. The obvious approach when the crag is first sighted is a horrible mess of boulders, fallen timber and scrub.

© (willmonks)

1.2.6. Bordel Buttress 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.952904, 142.422188

description

The cliff presents from the road as a series of corner climbs

access issues

This crag is due to be reviewed in the late 2022 surveys

approach

Drive along Pohlners Road for 9 km from the Roses Road Gap intersection. The crag is on your right.

The walk in is trackless and takes about 20minutes, the scrub is easy to walk through for the majority of the walk in. Watch out for the swampy conditions in spring. The walk off is to climber's right, down a descent gully at the left end of the cliff.

1.2.7. Mt Emu 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.8. The Crows Nest 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.9. The Eyrie 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.10. The Unnamed Cliff 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.970295, 142.387805

description

This cliff has a number of worthwhile climbs and isn't quite as remote as its neighbours. It is a fairly long crag and as access is at the left-hand end and the descent is at the right-hand end it can seem a long walk in climbing booties. Take Tevas!

There has been some recent development of a small face at the left end, including abseil stations, and some routes in the 22 department. Rock quality of this wall (Energise your soul wall) is generally excellent orange/grey sandstone. The rest of the cliff varies greatly, with large sections of choss, some very appealing lines. The descent off some routes looks epic, beware. Route finding to date has been hard due to lack of any decent topo maps. Please treat this upate with caution as many of the existing routes have not been added to the topos as the editor was not sure where they went. I hope the routes that I have indicated (which I am sure of) are useful to find your way around this crag. Possibility for new routes is great.

Original text by Bill Andrews. Edited by Joe Goding 12th July 2004.

Map Details

See Northern 'Grampians' (VICMAP). 1:50,000. The new track (as described in text) hits the cliff at approx 075 230

Also see "Mount Stapylton" 1:25,000 (VICMAP)

Suggested Campsites

1)Troopers Creek (Further) or

2)Mt Stapylton (Easier & closer).

© (jgoding)

access issues

This crag is due to be reviewed in the late 2022 surveys

© (jgoding)

approach

This crag is basically found near the south-east corner of the Toscana olives fenceline (there is a reasonable road on the south end of this. The road on the east boundary should only be undertaken by large (i.e. Hi-Lux or Land Cruiser) 4WD with decent clearance.

1. From the Troopers Creek campsite, head along Rose's Gap Road (towards Wartook) for 5km to Smith Road, (at 009 241) turn right onto this and follow it until it heads west (at GR 063 028) turn north onto Winfield Road. One kilometre along Winfield Road there is a vehicle track on the right(Cameron's Road), follow this (along the south, fenced border of Toscana Olives) for about 1½km until it peters out and turns north. Park here and head off roughly following an old vehicle track (that has had lots of trees felled across it). The start of the track can be a bit hard to find. You will hopefully find the trail which is just slightly higher than the old vehicle track most of the way, and joins it from time to time. You might catch the odd bit of yellow tape on a branch. After about 500m you come to a more open area, sloping down into the creek. Head left just before the creek, cross it after around 80m and follow it up and left (Cairned) until it heads steeply uphill to the base of 'Energise your soul' route. *The old track took another route slightly to the south but the track was re-made in order to reduce erosion as the old track was not well cairned and went mainly over loose ground. Routes described from left to right across the cliff.

2. From the new Mt Stapylton campsite, head west on Plantation Road, turn south onto Windfield Road. Follow this until you reach the south end of Toscana Olives. As for 'Access' description 1).

Cliff Faces

North west. A good winter cliff. Be a little careful of wind on the left end of the cliff as it can get pretty full on and tie up your ropes amongst the chicken heads!

Time from Car: 20 25 minutes.

Add access from Mt Stapleton. Update access. Refer to map. (Scan map).

Descent

The top of this cliff has a number of mini canyons running back from the cliff edge, especially at the left hand end, because of this, descent is definitely easier via the gully towards the right-hand end of the cliff. This gully is readily located by a couple of large cairns, the highest of which indicates the start of the gully. Down in the gully there is an option, either an "Organ Pipes (at Arapiles) descent gully" type hole, or the buttress on its left (facing out). Of the two options the buttress is slightly easier. If going down the hole, move out right (facing the cliff) at the bottom; if taking the buttress option, move left (facing the cliff) towards the bottom of the "hole" option and down climb the bottom part of the buttress to a good ledge. Traverse this to the right and drop down to ground level and walk out through the scrub for 10 15 metres to where it thins out and back to the base of the climbs. All of the above sounds complex but it should gel when you are actually there.

It is also possible to get down the left hand end of the cliff but it would probably require a few trips to become familiar with all the ins and outs of the maze.

At the left-hand end of the cliff is a descent gully; at the bottom of this gully is a small face. Non Event starts at the overlap in the centre of this face.

© (jgoding)

1.2.11. An Unnamed Cliff 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.965591, 142.380236

1.2.12. Olive Grove 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.13. Ghost Block 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.14. The Olive Cave 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.957887, 142.378359

description

Steep climbing in impressive caves with shade until 4pm.

The Rules. Don't EVER light fires at, or near this crag. It is too close to a very large farm. Camping in the caves is illegal - don't even think about it. If it's too cold bring more clothes or go somewhere else. Don't block this fireroad gate with your car. Parks Vic needs access to this area for larger trucks.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

The Olive Cave is in a Natural Values (NV1) SPA, according to the GGLMP. However NV1 is for the protection of the Platypus in the MacKenzie River, so this is likely to be a mistake, as there are no rivers or creeks anywhere near here! It may be an area identified for the 'future release' of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby (BTRW), but this is not confirmed.

© (nmonteith)

approach

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards Northern Grampians Road. At 2.2km take the first major left (Winfields Rd) and drive down this for 4.3km and park at intersection of Cameron and Winfield Rd. Jump the gate on the olive plantation side of Camerons Road (East) and walk down this sand dirt road for 1.6km, then turn left onto road that continues to follow the fence around the plantation. Keep walking north along this fireroad for another kilometre until the big cave is visible on the right and a red tape mark on the fence. There should be an old carpark here. Follow very short bush track straight up to the cliff (2 minutes). The first cave you reach is the lesser Northern cave. Riding mountain bikes could reduce walk-in time considerably.

© (nmonteith)

ethic

The Rules. Don't EVER light fires at, or near this crag. It is too close to a very large farm. Camping in the caves is illegal - don't even think about it. If it's too cold bring more clothes or go somewhere else. Don't block this fireroad gate with your car. Parks Vic needs access to this area for larger trucks.

© (nmonteith)

history

Interestingly there is some evidence of previous abandoned interest in these caves. In the early 90s Kieran Loughran placed a a bolt above Tazer and halfway up the wall to the left of Tazer. Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Richard Smith did a few routes to the right of the big caves sometime in the 90s. Not as chossy as it looks apparently. It was at the same time they discovered Troopers Creek tavern so they called it the Local as a result. Halls Gap local Earl bouldered a few problems along the base in 2006. Dave Jones came in for a boulder in late 2007 but didn't make it back before Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith and Cath De Vaus found and dispatched the main routes!

© (nmonteith)

1.2.15. Truckstop Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.948097, 142.379237

description

The closest climbing to the road in the Grampians!

approach

This whole area is most easily approached by walking south down dirt road which leaves Plantation Rd just south west of Stapylton Campground and head along east boundary of olive farm. Cliff starts above and right of second ninety degree turn (where The ravine walking track leaves the road).

descent notes

Walk off the back

history

Amazingly this cliff waited until Chris Baxter and David Gairns did the first routes in 1996.

1.2.16. The Ravine 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.948791, 142.387531

summary

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the Grampians.

© (aca_admin)

description

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the 'Grampians'. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.

The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.

If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer.

There has been some complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here.

1. limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc.

2. no new routes

3. no toilet activities anywhere near the crag or the creek (and bury your paper!)

4. leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1

5. Park your car at the gate (open or closed) and walk in

6. be courteous to any non-climbers in the area

7. take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)

© (aca_admin)

approach

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards 'Grampians' Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate, which may be locked in which case you'll need to walk. At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend you will see a small cliff in front of you, walk 50-100m PAST this final corner and look for a cairn on the left of the road marking the climbers track. Cairns mark the direction of the gully to scramble up. Once at the top of the small cliff line head approximately due east (cairns should mark the way, as all tape markers have been incinerated). While direction is relatively well marked by cairns some of the previous heavily wooded areas are not marked as well. Just keep heading east (gently heading uphill) until you reach the flat rocky ridge line which has cairns marking the final direction. Once looking down into the valley the Ravine is the large canyon approximately due east. Follow cairns down and try to stay to rocky ground to avoid erosion.

Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road - a mountain bike would reduce the walk time in half. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent.

© (aca_admin)

ethic

This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors.

© (aca_admin)

1.3. Mount Zero 39 routes in Area

2 5 6 7

2 Pangaea Walls 5 Mt Zero Summit Cliff 6 Mount Zero West Walls 7 Mt Zero roadside Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.886042, 142.370977

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Mount Zero' is the northernmost outcrop in The 'Grampians'. Its many outcrops look promising from the road but, in general, that's the best place to stay. 'Sport Crack' and 'Ephemeral Lakes' are of interest to sport climbers and 4 'Cornered' Crag offers reasonable easy climbs. That's about it.

Actually, I lied about staying in the car. The tourist track to the summit of 'Mount Zero' is most enjoyable. At the top, it's heartening to see that some environmentally-conscious people have pinned the summit together so that it doesn't fall apart on us.

Incidentally, 'Mount Zero' was named by Thomas Mitchell in 1836 because the temperature was 32 fahrenheit at dawn on the morning of the ascent. I thought that this was a bit weird but Mitchell was scientifically-minded so his thermometer was marked in Celsius but he had to report to his English masters in Fahrenheit (good German name). Maybe he had a sense of humour, despite his reputation for being pompous.

© (willmonks)

access issues

It is unknown why all the Mt Zero crags are not permitted.

© (willmonks)

approach

Start your journey at the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area. If you can't find 'Mount Zero', go home.

© (willmonks)

1.3.1. Descartes Edge 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the walking track toward the summit from the Flat Rock carpark. The track passes a steep wall then divides. One arm goes up and passes through a chimney and the other stays low and rejoins the route after the chimney. The two routes rejoin about 10m beyond the chimney where there is a small edge with a nice line.

© (willmonks)

1.3.2. Pangaea Walls 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.884860, 142.373624

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

A collection of buttresses on the north-east slopes of 'Mount Zero' with a couple of good hard routes, another couple of reasonable easy climbs and a lot of choss.

Most of the routes here have their starts initialled in case they get lost (no great loss for the most part). This area was burnt-out in early 1996 so is probably heavy with regrowth by now.

© (willmonks)

approach

Either park near the sweeping bend as you proceed from the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the 'Hollow Mountain' quarry and walk towards the lowest of the blocks or follow the summit walking track to just before 'Descartes' and drop down and around.

© (willmonks)

1.3.3. Toolondo Waters 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A chossy collection of buttresses on the northern slopes of 'Mount Zero' that is easiest approached from the walking track. The only notable thing here is the potential bouldering cave beside 'Toolondo Waters'.

© (willmonks)

approach

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and traverse east (right facing out) across the slope to some scrappy buttresses. Locate the bouldering cave to work out where the climbs are.

Alternatively, the outcrops can be approached from 'Pangaea Walls'. Looking from 'Pangaea Walls', two tiers of cliff are visible 300m to the west on the other side of a scrubby saddle. Most prominent, high on the lower tier, is a clean, hanging corner with obvious water streaks to its right. 'Toolondo Waters' starts below this corner.

© (willmonks)

1.3.4. 4 Cornered Crag 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A supposedly obvious crag situated a little north-east of the summit distinguished by (surprise, surprise!) four corners. This is the most coherent of the crags at 'Mount Zero' and is probably worth a visit.

The cliff faces north and gets full sun. Climbs are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

approach

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and contour around west (left facing out from the slope) passing through some patches of unavoidable thick scrub. About 10 minutes from the col to the cliff.

© (willmonks)

1.3.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.885250, 142.368710

description

This area is mostly garbage though the small cliff just below the lookout has some merit.

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the walking track. The cliff faces west and the choss is described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

1.3.6. Mount Zero West Walls 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.886849, 142.368719

description

Here is another area of choss. Some of the rock here looks good but it doesn't seem that anyone has found it yet. Apparently there have been many worthless climbs done here that have not been recorded. Let's hope that they stay that way.

© (willmonks)

approach

The west face has a band of cliffs with large orange overhangs sloping diagonally across the hillside with the highest outcrop directly below the summit. The overhangs look really good from the road but are disappointing on closer acquaintance. Even so, they should yield better climbs than the existing ones.

The first climb is the chimney that divides this outcrop right of the prominent overhangs. We move right from this point.

© (willmonks)

1.3.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.889123, 142.369064

summary

This very accessible cliff [100m walk in] boasts a handful of good middle grade routes.

description

A major well travelled track leads from the parking area to the landmark chimney corner. The cliff has obviously been used by abseil groups and some of the climbs appear to be well travelled. However, other climbs had loose blocks at key points which needed clearing, indicating that they were unlikely to have been climbed previously. The cliff is effectively the far right hand end of the West Face of Mt Zero, although it is separated from the rest of the West face by about 200m.

approach

Approaching the Flat Rock carpark from Summerday Valley turn right and follow the Mt Zero road for 300m to a short sandy track on the right and an obvious cliff less than 100m from the road. Park along the road edge or drive in to a large clearing [often occupied by campers]. One minute walk. Descend easily at either end, although the right hand end is more pleasant.

1.4. Flat Rock 131 routes in Area

3 1 4 2 5 6

1 The Play Pen 2 West Flank 3 Bellerophon Wall 4 Epsilon Wall 5 Epsilon Wall Bouldering 6 Cloud Cuckoo Land

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.894022, 142.377744

1.4.1. The Play Pen 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.892573, 142.376640

description

Supposedly an area for novices to top-rope and abseil... but they will be FAR better off going to Summer Day Valley, 'Bellerophon Wall' or Arapiles! It is very short, has little atmosphere and is a haven for mosquitoes. It is of no interest to recreational climbers, except perhaps for an interesting scramble up the full length of the gully if needing to fill time. No descriptions will be reproduced here.

The routes mentioned go from left to right and were done by Aidan Banfield and friends in the eighties.

The Teddy Bear 6m 1

The Wise Old Rag Doll 6m 2

Sand Pits And 'Gravel Rash' 6m 3

The Rattle 7m 3

'The Play Pen' Play Mate 7m 3

The Dolls Play With Guns 8m 4

© (willmonks)

approach

Walk into the large gully at the back of the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the sulphurous dam that thankfully is no longer used for water supply. This is about 30m to the R of the Flat Rock walking trail. The "cliff" is on the left as you look upstream. The "climbing" area starts 2 metres left of the dam and extends upstream. Scramble anywhere in this area.

© (willmonks)

1.4.2. West Flank 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.893959, 142.375716

description

A shady wall of Blue Mtns like wall routes with one the easiest approaches in the Grampians. Recent retrobolting and new climbs have delivered a good selection of bolted single pitch routes.

approach

Walls are located 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and 60m east in from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Access from the southern end of Taipan Wall carpark, pickup the warn rock path skirting to the right, around the base of the Flat Rock slabs keeping bush on your right (no need to bushbash). The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section.

1.4.3. Bellerophon Wall 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.892530, 142.379002

description

The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank. There are abseil anchors/DBBs in place above Bellerophon and Thapsus.

© (nmonteith)

approach

It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. A DBB/Abseil anchor services the area around Voyage of Discovery. The climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

1.4.4. Epsilon Wall 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.893857, 142.380783

description

This shady wall is on the left as you reach the top of Flat Rock. It has a few good examples of both trad, sport and mixed climbing as well as some very serious climbs at a spread of grades. The shockingly wide corner crack is 'Epsilon Plus'. The wall left of 'Epsilon Plus' offers good thin face climbs and some cracks of less distinction. Right of 'Epsilon Plus' is the frightening arete of 'New Imperative' and several attractive corners.

Up right from these climbs is the 'Skippy' Terrace, which has a few more good routes and is a good place on a warm day.

© (nmonteith)

approach

The cliff faces SSE and is in complete shade for much of the year. It gets early morning sun in summer and often catches breezes from the top of Flat Rock. This can be a pleasant spot on a warm day but it is a miserable place in winter.

For the first 9 routes, please do NOT walk directly up from the walking track to the base of 'Epsilon Plus'. The hillside here is steep and sandy and erodes easily. Instead please approach these climbs from well to the left, traversing in across slabby ledges from Flat Rock, as shown by the red lines in some of the topos below.

For the first 7 routes, descend via rap chain (18m) directly above Iron In The Soul. The 'Benn Gunn' area is served by a double ring bolt rap anchor above 'Crossfire' (22m). There's also a shitty descent down an awkward scramble past old graffiti at the left end (50m left of Mistaken Identity).

© (nmonteith)

1.4.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.893957, 142.381176

description

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark and continue to the top of Flat Rock. When the track drops down into the treeline, continue approximately 40m further until the track goes along the base of the 'Benn Gunn' Buttress of 'Epsilon Wall'. You'll be alongside an isolated boulder on the right, and the track takes a slight turn rightwards here. The wall is located up on a ledge to the left, beneath the X=X Area (aka 'Skippy' Terrace) of 'Epsilon Wall'. Either scramble up the slab (about grade 5) beneath 'Crossfire', or walk into the forest to where you can easily access the ledge system up and left.

© (boardlord)

1.4.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.895284, 142.378792

description

A fairly ordinary little area on the southeast side of Flat Rock, south of 'Epsilon Wall'. There are a couple of pleasant climbs for a mild spring or autumn afternoon.

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the marked track almost to the top of Flat Rock, to where it swings left towards 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight up to the top of Flat Rock. Follow easy ramps rightwards (SSW) down the southeast side of Flat Rock to where a large pinnacle sits in front of an easy-angled slab (which is part of Flat Rock). The left side of the slab is bounded by a very easy corner crack. The rock is generally appalling apart from the slab, and most of the climbs lack appeal.

Descend to the right of the climbs or by rappel when possible. Climbs are described from right to left.

© (willmonks)

1.5. Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre 549 routes in Area

2 3 4 5 7 9 8 10 11 19 13 17 22 24 15 21 16 18 25

2 Northern Wall 3 Central Buttress 4 Sabre Gully 5 Grey and Green Walls 7 Ground Control Caves 8 Trackside Boulders 9 Taipan Wall - North 10 Taipan Wall - South 11 Spurt Wall 13 Afterglow Wall 15 Bouldering Buttress 16 Between the Sheeps 17 Lower Taipan 18 Wildsides 19 The Snake Pit 21 The Plaza Strip 22 Citadel 24 Cave Club 25 Windjammer Wall

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.898566, 142.386594

description

Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996). It has been updated by Neil Monteith and friends (2005-2007).

One of Australia's premier areas. A high concentration of quality routes of every variety. 'Taipan Wall' is world renowned for offering some of the most amazing steep orange sandstone routes around. The bouldering is also very popular.

Useful Info: Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996).

© (nmonteith)

approach

Mount Stapylton is at the northern tip of the Grampians(Gariwerd), 30km south-east of Horsham. Train and bus services can get you to Horsham from 'Adelaide' or 'Melbourne' but after that you are on your own.

'Access' by car is easy. All but the last 4km is on sealed road and the unsealed road is negotiable in all weather conditions but care must be taken with corrugations, suicidal marsupials, emus and feral tourists. Hitching is not a good option because you'll probably have to walk a few kilometres and end up isolated in an empty camp-ground a long way from anything.

From 'Melbourne', follow the Western 'Highway' towards Horsham, passing through Ararat, Stawell and Dadswell's Bridge, until you're 11km past Dadswell's Bridge and just after the 269km post. Turn left and continue for 6½km, turn left (signpost Mt Zero) onto a dirt road. After 1.2km turn right (signposts Flat Rock 2.5, Mt Zero 1) and follow the road for 2½km to the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area.

From Horsham, follow the Western 'Highway' towards 'Melbourne' for 19km, 4km

past Green Lake, turn right (signpost to Laharum). Follow the road south for 8km, turn left (signpost Flat Rock 6), after 3 km turn right (signpost Mt Zero) onto a dirt road. After 1.2km turn right (signposts Flat Rock 2.5, Mt Zero 1) and follow the road for 2½km to the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area.

The lone visitor can normally find climbers in the carpark at 'Hollow Mountain' on any weekend...but not always! During the week you may get lucky but are more likely to strike youth groups and corporate team-builders. If you have no organised partner, your best option is to go to Mount 'Arapiles' first to make some contacts.

© (nmonteith)

history

While the Amphitheatre is one of the important climbing areas in 'Victoria', development has been sporadic.

When the area was discovered in the mid-sixties there was an intense period of development that culminated in one of the most intense months in Victorian climbing history.

In the four weeks from 23rd April to 18th May 1966, Mike Stone, Ian Guild, Chris Dewhirst and Gary Kerkin put up 'Spillway', 'Simpleton' and Seventh Pillar. In that same month this group, minus Gary Kerkin but with John Moore also added 'Scorpion' and 'Skink' at 'Arapiles'. These were the hardest, most serious climbs around, done in one brief period by a small group.

It's hard to appreciate what it was like in the sixties. Even in the mid-70s it was possible to arrive at 'Arapiles' on a mild summer weekend and find only five people there. 'Arapiles' was popular, Stapylton was not and, with the sixties, we are talking a decade earlier: we are talking isolation.

Contemplate placing the bolt runner on 'Simpleton', jamming your head in the crack to free both hands for drilling, or climbing hand-over-hand up a knotted rope to regain the first belay of Seventh Pillar or standing around in hard rubber while hand-drilling the bolts on Spillway? It's quite sobering.

Things were pretty quiet in the early seventies. Andrew Thomson added some aesthetic(?) bolt-laddders to 'Lower Taipan Wall' and combined with Kim Carrigan to free 'Clicke Crack' and dramatically reduce the aid on Seventh Pillar. Dave Mudie freed 'Simpleton' and contributed Seventh Banana to 'Taipan Wall'. John Chapman freed 'Spillway'.

Thomson and Carrigan's one-day ascent of Seventh Pillar in 1975 was no great shakes by the standards of the day. That is in theory. In reality this climb had people intimidated. The general steepness and atmosphere clobber aspirants to the present day. It was an indication of things to come from Carrigan.

Glenn Tempest and Kevin Lindorff had a spree in the Amphitheatre in April and May of 1977. They didn't break new ground in terms of grades but, in two weekends, they brought Stapylton into the modern era. 'Benn Gunn' and 'Asterisk' free, 'Starstruck', 'Technical Ecstasy', 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Atomic Tadpole' seemed to open the gateway, but it was not to be. Why? Because they weren't into rap-bolting or inspection in those days and obvious protectable climbs were exhausted.

At this time abseil bolting of routes was not common. Abseil bolting first appeared in 'Victoria' at Hanging Rock in the late sixties and did not catch on. Andrew Thomson reintroduced the concept when he did 'Swinging' at 'Arapiles' in April 1976 and it was quite controversial. When Tempest and Lindorff did their routes in the Amphitheatre, they were rejecting the use of chalk as unethical, let alone rap-bolting! This looks funny now, but it was taken quite seriously at the time. I suppose it has shades of British mountaineering in the thirties when crampons were rejected as unethical. Anyhow, Tempest and Lindorff set a new standard at the crag and then left it. Curiously, when Lindorff revisited Stapylton in the early eighties with a revised bolting ethic, he ignored his old stamping-ground in favour of Summer Day Valley.

At the start of the Eighties, Carrigan and I crossed from Summer Day Valley to The Amphitheatre to cut Seventh Pillar to one aid point (Carrigan did the work and dragged me up after him). At the end of the day we walked the length of 'Taipan Wall' and could see no more free propositions; quite hilarious in retrospect. I don't suppose Kim was having me on?

Anyhow, among other things, Carrigan put up 'The Great Divide', Matheson did 'Serpentine', Monks freed Seventh Banana and Pollitt did every climb on the wall as well as adding Rage, the direct version of 'Serpentine'.

'Taipan Wall' is far and away the highlight, but much of the rest is also deserving of your attention. Enjoy.

© (nmonteith)

1.5.1. Daves' Cave 6 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Obvious cave opposite Taipan etc. Approach via flat rock or from Camp Sandy.

1.5.2. Northern Wall 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.892992, 142.382153

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The Northern Walls offer a wide variety of climbs with a few being outstanding. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. These steep walls offer good wall climbing and a couple of weird grooves. There's not a bad climb here, but some are quite unusual and not to everyone's taste. Whatever else you do, don't miss out on 'Trident'.

The cliffs are shaded much of the time but get sun on summer mornings (as shown in the topo below, taken at 8:30 AM). It's a good spot for mild to warm days but it is quite sheltered so can get humid and sticky.

© (willmonks)

approach

This is the line of cliffs on the Northern extremity of the Amphitheatre, being the southern side of Wudjub Guyan (Hollow Mountain). The left side is above 'Epsilon Wall' and eventually becomes Kindergarden at the far left (West) end. The right side terminates at the major gully which separates the Northern Walls from 'Central Buttress'. 'Access' by walking into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past 'Epsilon Wall', then taking a well trodden sandy track up left towards 'Central Buttress', then walking back left along the base. The Northern Walls can also be accessed via Kindergarden, but this is slower, has scrambly bits and is verging on bushbashing at times.

The best descent from climbs in this area is by abseil. Two ropes are usually required. In the past the main descent, was a 40 metre abseil from the tree above Zola. The chain has been removed to prevent damage to the tree from ringbarking and climber movement around the tree. An anchor left of 'Trident' serves the climbs in that area (35m). There is another anchor at the top of 'Germinal' (30m)

The major gully to the right of the Northern Walls does not deserve it's title of Amphitheatre Descent 'Gully' because it is highly dangerous and 100% NOT recommended. Originally noted by the Gledhills as being "dangerous at night", this gully is dangerous even in broad daylight and fine weather!! It is often wet and features awkward chimneys, greasy slabby sections and difficult sections with dangerous landings. In recent years, broken glass has become a real hazard. There are few abseil anchors and it is not possible to abseil the gully in one rope length. At least one accident in this gully has resulted in serious head injuries. In short, it's far better to traverse from the top of your route of choice to one of the numerous abseil anchors.

© (willmonks)

1.5.3. Central Buttress 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.893250, 142.383756

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Central Buttress' is the big somewhat scrappy looking area extending right from the Amphitheatre 'Gully', until the cliffline breaks down into a gully before the Grey & Green Walls. It offers a wide variety of climbs with a few outstanding classics. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. The highlight of this area, and the best section of the entire Amphitheatre apart from 'Taipan Wall', is the recess containing 'Simpleton', 'Missing' and 'Technical Ecstasy'.

'Central Buttress' is in the shade until early afternoon. 'Simpleton' gets sun only on summer evenings. An early start on a hot day can see you up a good climb before the heat of the afternoon. The climbs left of 'Simpleton' appear grey and amorphous but are generally quite steep and more difficult than appearances suggest.

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the walking track from Flat Rock down into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past 'Epsilon Wall', avoiding any right-hand turns. Follow a faint pad on the left to soon arrive below the Amphitheatre 'Gully'. 'Central Buttress' extends from here to your right.

Descent: Descend via the abseil near 'Simpleton' or the 'Hollow Mountain' walking track towards Summer Day Valley (return into the Amphitheatre is then possible by walking beneath Amnesty, Clicke, Kindergarden and Northern Walls areas). Avoid the horrible dangerous Amphitheatre 'Gully' (which I refuse to call by its traditional name of "the descent gully"!). Parties with novice climbers are strongly advised to use the walking track for descent.

'Simpleton' Abseil Route: This is the only abseil descent from this area, and allows the awful Amphitheatre 'Gully' to be avoided, but it has its own hazards. If you have two 50m ropes, you need to use the old anchors: from the top of 'Simpleton' (near a lonely 4m pine tree), move out to the front of the cliff and scramble down 5 metres to the chains, the scramble is fairly easy but very exposed - one snapped hold or foot slip and you're facing a death fall. If in doubt, keep the rope on. Have slings ready to clip into the anchors, which are now worryingly rusty. It is a 50 metre abseil, and the first 40 metres are free hanging. Abseil ends on long ledge at the base of 'Missing'. Either scramble down the initial slabs of 'Technical Ecstasy' or do a further short abseil from trees. If you take novices on this descent (not recommended) you must be able to rescue them if they get stuck on the long free abseil section. On a pragmatic note, remember that belaying a novice on descent can take just as long as simply walking off.

In May '09 a new anchor was added at the top of the 'Simpleton' corner, and this can be accessed much less dangerously than the original anchor because you don't need to do the scary 5m downclimb. To use this new anchor you need two 60m ropes. With this abseil (using 60m ropes) you will end up on top of the first ledge of Simpleton P1, NOT on the ground. The downclimb from here is pretty easy, but its worthwhile to check it out beforehand.

Climbs are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

1.5.4. Sabre Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.893743, 142.384617

description

Shady gully on far left end of Grey and Green Walls. All routes here receive no sun. Routes are on the gully face of Central Buttress.

approach

From either central buttress or Grey & green walls climb over and through a nest of boulders - no clear track.

Feb 2019 - Fallen burnt out trees block multiple sections of what could be a trail from Grey & Green Walls. Kind of hard to get to.

descent notes

Glory abseil off rock bollard. Grep walk off (finishes on ledge where Coolsville starts. Coolsville and TD have a shared rap anchor up to the right.

1.5.5. Grey and Green Walls 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.894367, 142.385229

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The great slabby walls left of 'Taipan Wall' are The 'Grey and Green Walls'. The smooth grey buttress on the left is, of course, 'The Grey Wall' while the mossy slab to the right is 'The Green Wall'. A smooth 15-20 metre high wall, the 'Petite Fleur' Face, runs along the foot of the cliffs.

There is a lot of good climbing on these walls, but many of the climbs aren't consistent. For instance, 'Sluice' has only two metres of grade 18 climbing in close to 100 metres. The original climbs are described but are sometimes included in composite climbs that are much more worthwhile. The contribution of the pioneers is not discarded but incorporated and acknowledged in more enjoyable climbs.

© (willmonks)

approach

Access this area by traversing the base of the cliffs either from the right end of 'Central Buttress' or from the left end of 'Taipan'.

The safest descent from the longer climbs is to walk south along the cliff-tops to meet the walking track to the top of Mt Stapylton and follow this track back into The Amphitheatre. Parties with novices are strongly advised to use this descent.

Alternatively, if you have two ropes, use the abseil descent down 'Navarre' which is 2 long (45-50m) abseils. This can be difficult to locate from above (-36.894709, 142.385788). Novices will require supervision on this abseil. The first abseil is about 10 metres below the top, just left of a large cave. The first abseil is free hanging at times and you need to veer to abseiler's right so as to land on the terrace at the top of the first pitch of 'Navarre'.

Finally, the 'Hollow Mountain' walking trail can be gained by walking and scrambling north along the tops, which makes for quite a fun adventure though some may want to rope up for some of the chasm crossings.

'Petite Fleur' Face is described first, then the Grey Wall, then the Green Wall. The climbs in each sub-area are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

1.5.6. Farside 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Home to a singular boulder and only one climbed line.

1.5.7. Ground Control Caves 16 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.894903, 142.385600

description

3 caves that sit up above and just right of the 'Grey & Green Walls' (see current 'Grampians' Select Guide). 'Access' either via the rugged summit walking track starting from 'Echoes Block' area, or via the much longer (but less exposed) tourist track from the Mt Zero carpark - heading towards Stapylton Summit.

© (boardlord)

access issues

Difficult access may have resulted in this spot not being surveyed despite being 'around' lots of permitted climbing areas. There is no known CH.

© (boardlord)

1.5.8. Trackside Boulders 103 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.895936, 142.384716

description

As the name suggests, it is on the trackside when you are heading towards the summit of Mt. Stapylton, as well as trackside if you are heading 'Taipan' wall. Various boulders requiring different skills including monos, to the highball problem. Fairly good landing for most of this area.

IMPORTANT - this area is becoming heavily eroded and caked on chalk is highly visible to tourists. Please brush all chalk off problems when you leave. Bring some water in a squirty bottle and a brush and do it right. Our continued access to this area is under review. To avoid unnecessary erosion also consider bouldering somewhere else - especially if you are in a large group.

© (Hatsu)

approach

Take the walking track from Mt Zero carpark and continue over Flat Rock, past 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight along the main track past the "Mt. Stapylton 1.7Km" sign. The boulders appear alongside the track soon afterwards.

PDF bouldering map of this area is on its way.

© (Hatsu)

1.5.9. Taipan Wall - North 66 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.895791, 142.385326

description

Important: (a) Before you leave the car, please try to poo in the toilets at Flat Rock car park; or (b) Carry a leave-no-trace toilet kit (pee bottle, poo tube/wag bags (available at Climbing Anchors), use it and dispose of waste properly. (c) If you are without a toilet kit do need to poo while at the crag (which should be rare if you adhere to (a)!) then please walk a LONG way away from the cliff (eg at least 50m - and no, 10m from the base of the crag is NOT ok!) and make sure you bury your poo and paper. (d) do NOT burn your paper, (nor just put it under a rock).

It's a shame we have to start with the above, but unfortunately the popularity (and sensitivity) of this great crag could have side effects caused by those who are happy to shit in their own nest. Don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Now onto the good news. 'Taipan Wall' is widely considered to be the best single crag in 'Australia', and many climbers consider that it ranks up there amongst the very best crags in the world. It is certainly the most outstanding climbing feature of the Grampians: a 200m long, overhanging wall up to 60 metres high, which positively glows a stunning orange in the evening sunshine. And the wall doesn't only have good looks: the climbs themselves are almost all of incredibly high quality. While a number of climbs unfortunately require a bolt for aid or have a crux move that is grades harder than anything else on the climb, the climbs are nevertheless generally magnificent.

Because of the uniformly excellent quality of the climbing, previous guides have used "Taipan stars", which effectively involved deducting a star from most routes and only giving 3 stars to those particularly sublime routes which push for the mythical 4th star! In a break with that tradition, this guide gives stars wherever they're deserved - and 'Taipan' deserves plenty! To help you work out what is the absolute cream of the crop, look out for the group of "Taipan's Top 5": Daedalus, Cardigan St (pitch 2), 'Feather Boa', 'Serpentine', and 'World Party' (pitch 3). It could have also been a "Top 7" because Mr Joshua and 'The Seventh Pillar' are right up there too.

Despite a reputation of being largely inaccessible to moderate climbers, the truth is that if you climb in the low 20s there are many days' worth of truly fantastic climbing to be had. In this regard it is worth remembering that, at times when difficult multi-pitch routes are all a bit too much, many of the hard classics have excellent easier first pitches. In particular, the following pitches are highly recommended, and have rap anchors:

'Sordid Orchids' p1 (** 20m 25);

Seventh Banana p1 (** 20m 23);

~Sirocco p1 (* 20m 21);

'Medusa' p1 (* 40m 25);

~Seventh Pillar LHV (* 45m 23);

Seventh Pillar LHV (short version) (* 28m 22);

~Serpentine p1 (* 35m 24);

Naja p1 (** 30m 27);

(The ~ symbol indicates pitches which must be seconded because they traverse too much to allow rap-cleaning).

Note that a 60m rope is required to lower off many routes, and longer ropes are often very handy. A 100m rope has even been used to work Father O from the ground! In any event, you often need every metre of your rope to lower off, and you're often trying to land on a ledge, so there is a real chance of ending up dangling in space or worse. Take careful note of the rap length and pitch length information provided against each route, and tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Because most routes have slopers and/or smooth holds, bear in mind that temperature and humidity conditions have a strong bearing on route difficulty. The wall has shade until 1-2pm so generally speaking, depending on the forecast daily maximum temperature, you should plan as follows:

>35C: climb elsewhere

28-35C: make a very early start and expect to be roasted off by noon

23-27C: exploit the mornings, but may be ok to carry on in the afternoon sun

17-22C: prime 'Taipan' conditions. Go hard!

<17C: Morning shade will be cold, afternoon sunshine will be glorious, although limited to only a few hours in winter.

'Taipan' is a good venue on days of light showers, but is not great if it really rains. Despite the large areas of always-dry orange rock, the grey & black lichen streaks will seep. The black streaks can develop a surprisingly strong trickle if there's been decent rainfall, due to the fairly large slabs above which drain down these lines. Also, despite the majority of the crag being overhung, the prevailing southwest winds tend to bring rain into the base onto packs and belayers. Plus, if its anything more than passing showers then the humidity will make all the slopers seem harder to hold on to! And don't count on a retreat to 'Spurt Wall' - despite the huge rooves protecting it from direct rain, it has an amazing ability to soak up moisture and all the crimps become disgustingly spoodgy. So, 'Taipan' is a good choice on days of light showers, but if rain sets in you're better off going somewhere shorter, steeper and thuggier.

© (willmonks)

access issues

In 2020 Aboriginal cultural heritage was re-discovered at Taipan Wall (Gunigalg area). The climbing area was subsequently closed to allow Traditional Owners and Parks Victoria to determine a long-term solution for protecting the cultural values of the area through the Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan.

The Climbing Victoria Advisory Council (CVAC) and its member organisations support Traditional Owners to rediscover and protect their cultural heritage. We ask all climbers to support this approach. The Gunigalg visitor area, including Taipan Wall, covers much of the northernmost part of Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park and includes some of the park’s most significant Aboriginal cultural places within this area, as well as popular climbing locations.

Recognising the importance of Taipan Wall to the rock-climbing community, the Gariwerd Traditional Owners, represented by the Barengi Gadjin Land Council Aboriginal Corporation, Gunditj Mirring Traditional Owners Aboriginal Corporation, and Eastern Maar Aboriginal Corporation, worked with Parks Victoria and the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network to find alternate access routes that allowed climbing but protected the cultural heritage values.

This reopening is the result of years of effort and consideration to identify how climbing can co-exist with the protection of cultural values. CVAC acknowledges the generosity of the Gariwerd Traditional Owners in working through this process. As a result, the northern section of Taipan Wall (left hand side) was designated as a rock climbing area in the Landscape Management Plan pending completion of site protection works.

There are changes to access points and climbing routes that climbers must familiarise themselves with. An information sheet has been prepared with CVAC’s input; you can access it here from the link below. There is also signage onsite to help climbers understand the changes and new exclusion areas. It is the responsibility of rock climbers to know where they can and cannot climb. Entering and climbing in these locations should be done with respect for the Traditional Owners of these lands along with taking appropriate care to look after these places and avoiding places where climbing is not permitted.

For further queries please contact the organisation that you’re connected to that sits on the Climbing Victoria Advisory Council.

This link below will take you to the details of what’s open, what’s changed etc. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-in-the-grampians-national-park/taipan-wall-rock-climbing-information.pdf

© (willmonks)

approach

Drive to Flat Rock carpark and walk up Flat Rock (noting the difference between "flat" and "horizontal"!). Follow the track down into the Amphitheatre and across the flats. About 300m into the Amphitheatre the track starts to rise again and here the first boulders are met on the left (Trackside Bouldering Area), at this point leave the main track and head left. Follow this track uphill through the boulders for 100 metres or so to a tall boulder on the left with a prominent arete.

Descents: for climbs on the left half of the wall (i.e. all routes left of, and including, Serpentine), the descent is by a 45 metre abseil from the top of 'Clean Sweep'. Anchors atop other routes (such as 'Divided Years', Father O, Cardigan St and Mirage) are either unsafe to access from above or are poorly arranged for rope pulling, so the 'Clean Sweep' anchor is the only option. It is recommended to get your bearings beforehand (e.g. from the top of Flat Rock) as the anchor can be a little tricky to find from above. Traversing along the top of the wall to this anchor is quite exposed, particularly the section above Father O. While some people opt for the scary traverse on the very edge of the clifftop, this is not trivial above Cardigan St and the fall potential could hardly be worse. The better option is probably to stay about 12m back up from the clifftop above Cardigan St and Father O but this is still quite exposed so take care, and if in doubt rope up. Once you're at the 'Clean Sweep' abseil anchor, make sure to test-pull the ropes before the last person comes down because the ropes regularly get jammed on this abseil. Hint: the last person should step to abseiler's left to avoid laying the ropes in the offending groove on the lip. Right of 'Serpentine' it is not safe to walk unroped along the clifftop, and descent details are specified against each individual route below.

© (willmonks)

1.5.10. Taipan Wall - South 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.896803, 142.385750

description

This is the section of wall R of Naja where climbing is not permitted. More information will be added shortly.

1.5.11. Spurt Wall 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.897367, 142.385889

description

The highest concentration of hard routes in 'Victoria' and certainly the most popular sport crag in the 'Grampians'. Packed into a relatively short area and overshadowed by 'Taipan Wall' this well developed wall is full of hard slopy sustained test pieces. For many Europeans this is their entire experience of climbing in the 'Grampians' - which is a bit of a shame really. Like all true sport crags this place is all about the moves not the aesthetics of the routes. If you have issues with chalk and bolts than steer a wide path around this piece of modern cragging. The bottom of the crag is a very eroded sandy ramp so bring a good rope matt or suffer the consequences. Stick-clips litter the ground, use them to either aid your way up the respective project or to protect your ankles from snapping before the first bolt. Be warned - on some of the routes the longest stick still won't reach between the bolts!

'Excellent', although greasy in summer, bouldering is spread along the left hand end of Spurt. Some of the problems are starts to routes, but many are their own unique adventures. Big positive pockets and long dynos are very popular. Bring a good matt and something to clean your shoes from the endless sand.

Please don't treat this area as just 'another sport crag'. Don't leave blue tarps at the base, remove all rubbish including finger tape and try and minimize chalk use. This crag has been trashed by sheer numbers and is a very clear reminder of the impact climbers can create. Please try and minimize human created destruction - our access to this crag depends on it.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

Unfortunate to lose such a iconic sport area. Technically due to be surveyed... but is unlikely to open anytime soon due to potential archeological rock scatters in the scree slope below the climbs which would require extensive and expensive excavation.

© (nmonteith)

approach

Spurt Wall is separated from the rest of 'Taipan Wall' only by a state of mind. The wall begins to build just right of the 'ramp' boulder that leans against the start of Invisible Fist. As you walk past the end of the boulder traverse you encounter the first of these routes. The first starts underneath the ledge that Mr Joshua starts from.

The photo below is of Jake Bresnehan on 'Lifestyling' (32).

© (nmonteith)

1.5.12. Spurt Wall (Bouldering) 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

access issues

Areas around the 'boulder traverse' contains the most direct CH on Taipan. Do not climb.

1.5.13. Afterglow Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.898104, 142.386259

1.5.14. Afterglow Boulders 6 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.5.15. Bouldering Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.899052, 142.387029

description

This remote area high up on the right-hand end of 'Taipan Wall' is a remarkable piece of rock architecture forming a lovely little glade, that is well worth a visit just for its unique setting and atmosphere. The main part of the cliff is superb orange/yellow stone up to about 30 metres high and perhaps 10 metres overhung and in terms of architecture it is at least as impressive as 'Sandinista' Wall. Unfortunately the awe inspiring territory is all incredibly blank. Nevertheless, there are a couple of enjoyable climbs at either end.

© (willmonks)

approach

The best walk in is probably via the tourist track past 'Lower Taipan Wall' all the way around to the Plaza Strip (as described on The Plaza Strip page). From there, walk L along the terrace under the big roof of Hip Bath. About 80m L of Hip Bath there is a weakness in the line of roofs, solo up this (an undercut jughaul into a short corner, take care), and you're at the base of the very obvious and impressive 'Bouldering Buttress'. This approach keeps you on the well-graded tourist track except for the last 100m or so, and avoids the long stumble past 'Trackside', 'Taipan', Spurt and Afterglow areas.

If you do want to approach via 'Taipan', follow 'Taipan Wall' R past 'Spurt Wall' and past 'Afterglow Wall' for another 50m or so until you reach the same weakness in the line of rooves as described above.

The 'Bouldering Buttress' terrace can also be gained by climbing the first 8m of 'Evil Elf' at the Plaza Strip and then walking easily L from there. Once again, it's no fun to solo.

© (willmonks)

1.5.16. Between the Sheeps 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.899509, 142.387000

description

An exposed and very steep venue located on the far right hand end of the Mt Stapylton massif. All the problems are steep (roof) following sharp pockets/edges - with some finishes quite exciting due to the 30ft slab which resides beneath the terrace. Problems described left to right.

© (boardlord)

approach

Access by taking the walking track from the Mt Zero carpark, then all the way past 'Taipan' Lower/Emu Rock. When the path branches in 2, take the left path (as for Stapylton summit/Cave Club/The Citadel) and continue along for a further 30 seconds. A vague path then leads straight through the bush to the cliffline (visible from the main path).

© (boardlord)

1.5.17. Lower Taipan 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.899480, 142.384838

1.5.18. Wildsides 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.899558, 142.383588

description

A very isolated bouldering venue existing of basically 4 caves containing a smattering of problems. For their grades, Lazy Monelli, The Beginning's of a Great Adventure and 'Sweet Sensation' are renowned to be the pick of the bunch here. Definetly worth a trip if you are visiting The 'Snakepit'.

© (boardlord)

approach

Access from The 'Snakepit' via a very exposed and somewhat dangerous slab (grade 5?) or for a much safer option, come off the tourist track after 'Emu Rock' and skirt right across the plateau until just below (some 30m) the 'window'. You'll know what that is when you see it. Down a little 'staircase' to emerge in at the base of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave.

© (boardlord)

1.5.19. The Snake Pit 19 routes in Field

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.897952, 142.383801

access issues

Unfortunately, many boulder problems here climb directly over CH (quarrying) and this area will remain off-limits for climbing.

1.5.20. Bangla's Revenge 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

This cliff doesn't look too bad but it's a reasonable walk requiring you to go almost to the top of Stapylton before starting to bush-bash. The rock's not wonderful either, but you can't have it all.

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the walking track towards the summit, past the sign-post to Pohlner's Road, until the top of the rise. Continue on a little until it seems best to bash off to the cliff which is visible about 200m away on the right (I'd turn around before that!).

© (willmonks)

1.5.21. The Plaza Strip 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.899284, 142.387512

description

A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).

© (willmonks)

access issues

Some quarrying here - although doesn't affect the majority of the popular routes, including staging areas. Please stay off the sand area on the right of Prowess.

© (willmonks)

approach

Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.

© (willmonks)

1.5.22. Citadel 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.898590, 142.388504

description

As for 'Between the Sheeps', but instead of branching left off the main track, continue along the main path as for Stapylton summit. Prior to the track ascending the gully (and opposite a vertical wall adjacent to the path) - take a right turn through the dense bush (track) to emerge at the 'Citadel'.

© (boardlord)

1.5.23. Stapylton East 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Although the access is mostly on the well-established National Parks walking track, the walk is too long for any climbs to be popular.

© (willmonks)

approach

Walk to 'The Citadel' and then sidle around for a couple of minutes. I.e. follow the walking track almost until the summit of Mt. Stapylton. The track climbs a gully just before swinging left(south) along a rock shelf to the final scramble. Low down in this gully, veer right off the track and follow, as closely as possible, the cliff east and then north. The easiest route involves a bit of maze-work among blocks but the sword-grass gullies should be avoided like the plague. Scramble over a slabby terrace running below the east-facing cliff-line to the head of a sword-grass choked gully running down to the south-east. There is a nice crack here. It sounds hard but the climb is only five minutes from the track.

© (willmonks)

1.5.24. Cave Club 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.898832, 142.387282

description

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark, and continue all the way past Lower 'Taipan' Wall/Emu Rock etc towards Mt Stapylton summit. Just before the track winds its way to the very summit - skirt left around the escarpment to find the cave containing these 4 problems. Connoisseur's of the V10 market reportedly should not miss out on the problem of the same name.

© (boardlord)

1.5.25. Windjammer Wall 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.900679, 142.383527

description

The best thin (exciting!) single pitch face climbing in the Ampitheatre, possibly the best of its style in the 'Grampians'. 'Excellent' edges, horizontals and pockets on gritty rock. This is the most developed cliff on the vast blob of rock below 'Lower Taipan Wall'. Due to its exclusion from the Tempest/Mentz Select Guide this area has been totally neglected - which is very unfortunate as it really is a fantastic crag. Some of the routes are almost sport-climbs and others are definitely not. Shade until early afternoon. The wall fell out of favour after it was badly affected by the 2014 fires; although the scarring remains evident, it seems that the rock is mostly very solid (at least, it is on the popular routes!).

© (nmonteith)

approach

Walk from Camp Sandy, then turn right onto main walking track.

Alternatively, walk up Flat Rock and turn right at the sign to Stapylton Campground.

Follow the track down into the valley, cross a log-bridge over a swamp / clearing and continue for about 150 metres. The cliff can be seen up to the left. Turn left at small cairn and follow faint path to cliff. In all, no more than 30 minutes from the car. People tend to arrive at a flake-buttress (Rosy The Riveter) that marks the left side of the main wall.

© (nmonteith)

descent notes

Shared lower-offs above routes on left hand side. Descents on right hand side are by single-rope abseils rather than lower-offs as the anchors are usually above some sharp edges. 'Access' to the top of the crag is a total nightmare of grey explodo jugs so make sure you can make it up your chosen route! Climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

1.6. Summerday Valley 333 routes in Area

10 14 9 2 1 13 11

1 Back Wall 2 Main Wall 9 Bird Wall 10 Left Wall 11 Tunnel Cliff 13 Wall of Fools 14 Bowler Boulder

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888274, 142.386067

description

(Was) By far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'. These days it's a sad and lonely place to be unless of course a Licensed Tour Operator (LTO) is running a group session.

For a little more background info on bans effecting SDV, you can visit this article:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/2019/03/26/summerday-and-hollow-mountain-update/

© (willmonks)

access issues

While the whole of SDV is thought of as a LTO-only area, in reality LTO's are still only allowed to use small sections of wall: Back Wall, L side of Wall of Fools and Barc cliff (which is listed under Hollow Mt).

While there's at least 2 areas of Cultural Heritage (one minor quarrying site, and rock scatters that were discovered after the 2014 Bushfires); it is understood that SDV is a good example of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Traditional Owners feel that the place is special to them, and they do not want climbers there (except Tour Operators are ok, as they have signed a "Permit to Harm" document).

© (willmonks)

1.6.1. Back Wall 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888743, 142.384833

description

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

© (willmonks)

approach

Back Wall is the SW face of 'Central Buttress', and faces the 'Wall of Fools'. With the way the track comes in these days you reach 'Back Wall' before 'Main Wall' so the names are a little confusing! It is shady until early afternoon, making it good for summer mornings and winter afternoons.

To gain the top of the crag (or to descend) you need to do a fairly easy scramble at either end, but again, don't trust the snappable jugs.

© (willmonks)

1.6.2. Main Wall 32 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888604, 142.384947

description

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day.

© (willmonks)

access issues

This wall has been Closed since the bushfires in 2014… after which some artifact scatters were found prompting immediate closure. This was the first / main wall to be closed as a result of Cultural Heritage concerns, and it should be noted that the climbing community has been respectful of this ban, and should continue to avoid this sensitive area.

© (willmonks)

1.6.3. Calcutti Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.4. Hadrian's Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.5. Tropicana Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Aid climbing

1.6.6. The Stack 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.7. Norms Face 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.8. Loversleep Cliff 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

1.6.9. Bird Wall 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888518, 142.385968

1.6.10. Left Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.887909, 142.384896

1.6.11. Tunnel Cliff 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.889497, 142.384918

1.6.12. Noah's Ark 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.13. Wall of Fools 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888838, 142.384112

description

Technically, only climbs L of Diazepam are available for LTO's to use. This is due (primarily) to a small quarry site around the middle of the wall - on the ground left the arch.

1.6.14. Bowler Boulder 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888093, 142.383713

1.6.15. Callitris Face 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.16. Callitris Gully 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.17. Scout Cliff 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.18. Brownie Buttress 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6.19. The Last Bastion 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

The areas is formed by a relatively narrow promontory of rock giving two distinct faces. The Cradle Wall is on the East side, facing Iskra Crag, the rest of the routes are on the west side.

approach

The best approach is probably to head to the bouldering area of Lemonade Wall/Project Wall. When level with the bouldering area head right to the cliff line and follow it until you come to the short steep Cradle Wall with the obvious easy corner of Borderline on the right. Continue left [south] from here and around the end of the promontory to find the rest of the routes. Alternately you can walk up to Flower Power Block, turn right and cross a flat lightly vegetated area to arrive at the same point. The climbs are described from left to right starting at the left most route on the west face..

1.6.20. Old Campsite Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.7. Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) 917 routes in Crag

3 1 2 7 4 6 13 8 16 14 12 15 9 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

1 Flying Blind Area 2 Barc Cliff 3 Echidna Wall (bouldering) 4 Gun Buttress 6 Amnesty Wall Area 7 Andersens 8 Clicke Wall 9 Kindergarten 12 Sandinista Cliffs 13 Pensioners Wall Area 14 Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block 15 Loopeys 16 Hollow Mountain Cave 17 Legoland 18 Cut Lunch Walls 19 Koalasquatsy Wall 20 Tribute Wall 21 The Dungeon 22 Bad Moon Rising Wall 23 Van Diemen's Land

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.892677, 142.384587

1.7.1. Flying Blind Area 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888874, 142.383402

access issues

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

1.7.2. Barc Cliff 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.889496, 142.383957

description

Licenced Tour Operators (Paid) only at this cliff, which is a shame as it's a fabulous wall for families, top-roping etc.

approach

About 40m right of Flying Blind. The first climb is supposed to start 9 metres left of 2 ferns in a crack (good luck)

1.7.3. Echidna Wall (bouldering) 19 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.887810, 142.380937

summary

Nice long wall with lots of fun problems. Great quality rock, good landings. The main wall faces west and overhangs 5 to 20 degrees.

access issues

NOTE: This area has extremely fragile soils and vegetation (especially since the fires). Avoid making trails by NOT walking single file and, where possible, hopping from rock to rock.

approach

The area is one one of the first rock outcrops visible from the carpark on the northern sided of the Hollow Mountain track. To access walk up the trail towards Andersens until the first rock step. Then rock hop back rightwards bearing back towards the carpark. PLEASE do not make a 'B-line' track to this spot directly from the carpark.

ethic

Leave no trace.

1.7.4. Gun Buttress 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.891136, 142.382998

description

A steep little crag of strong lines tucked away below the trees underneath Sandinista Wall. This could be called Lindorff Crag as Kevin was involved in almost every one of these routes. His trademark hard grading and technical crack moves are a feature of this area. It's a shame that the best routes on this crag all feature an awkward tree scramble to get started. This is one of the only cliffs in this area that is suitable for top-roping, due to the easy top access, although some routes are too steep to toprope. Some excellent bouldering has been done on the left side. This place is protected from light rain and gets morning sun although the trees keep it generally shady for most of the day.

access issues

There are CH sites along the overhangs of this cliff that require extra protections, and it's also close to the main tourist trail.

approach

Easily approached by leaving the track 50m before the Sandinista Cliff and heading right on a well worn track (which heads to Anderson's bouldering area). 50m along this track the wall will be visible on the left. Almost all routes are marked with a small white painted initial. Descent for all climbs is down the right side via a small track. Routes are described left to right.

1.7.5. Battlescarred Blocks 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

A few ok routes hidden away in the jungle surrounding the Andersons bouldering area. Most people don't even realize that there is roped climbing tucked below the main cliffs.

approach

The following routes are 40m down from the right hand end of Gun Buttress at two large boulders which create a small well sheltered alcove. If you follow the lower of the climbers' tracks you pass very near these large boulders. They are protected from the sun most of the day.

1.7.6. Amnesty Wall Area 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.891154, 142.382063

description

One of the most popular sport crags in the 'Grampians' - and one of the easiest to get to. Recent bolting (and retrobolting) has created a popular and busy little sector which contrasts nicely with the original old school trad routes. There is a wide variety of styles and grades so that most climbers would be pretty happy spending a day in this delightful shaded glen. The rock is extremely featured with large pockets and seams but can vary in quality with the lower section of the main wall suffering from sandy rock.

Historically this area has been one of the most developed crags at 'Hollow Mountain'. In 1983 the Lindorff brothers established the two infuriatingly thin face routes of 'Airplay' (21) and 'Levitation' (22) as well as the undeservedly ignored 'No Fixed Address' (21). A few years later Louise Shepherd established one of the first of the hard routes in the area with her bold ascent of 'Amnesty International' (24). Her partner on this route, Steve Monks, added his own wicked creation, the drought affected 'Chinese Water Torture' (22). In the early 90s Martin Lama and Graeme Smith added two variations to a theme on the 'Airplay' wall. 'Julia Roberts' (21) and 'Infinite Dreams' (22) were the result. In 1993 James McIntosh lead his way through choss and moss to create his own version of the 'Lost Arrow' spire (15). Seven years later Ray Lassman and Keith Lockwood boldly climbed the arete right of the main wall to produce No Fixed Gear (18). Unfortunately this route lasted less than twelve months before it was unknowingly retrobolted by Dianne Fermi to create the aptly named 'Amnesia' (17). This act heralded a near explosion of new route activity by a new younger generation of sport climbers. Matt Brooks returned with a vengeance establishing one of the hardest routes outside of 'Sandinista' Wall with his 'United Nations' (30). He also added the very popular 'The Tyrants Grasp' (22) and 'Freedom Fighter' (27). David Isaacs created further controversy by bolting a crack/seam to create 'Sting' Like A Bee (24). Recent years have seen the rest of the real estate slowly being filled by extensions, linkups and the usual. This area has become one of the more popular sport crags in the 'Grampians'.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

While Amnesty wall itself is technically not permitted - the routes above it, in Crank Start Amphitheatre are ok.

© (nmonteith)

approach

The most foolproof approach from the 'Hollow Mountain' car park is to follow the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail to the base of 'Sandinista' Wall, then walk R along the base of the cliffs for about 80m to the 'Moral Vandal' Block, and keep going another 50m or so to emerge in this shady amphitheatre with a heavily pocketed central wall. A more direct and quicker approach, if you know the trails, is to turn right off the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail about 150m before you get to 'Sandinista' Wall, and walk right about 100m under Gun Buttress, and then stumble 50m up the right end of Gun Buttress to pop into Amnesty Amphitheatre.

This area keeps fairly dry in light rain - but tends to seep after extended liquid downfalls. The routes get morning sun, however many routes will be shady most of the day as they lie under the tree line.

© (nmonteith)

1.7.7. Andersens 304 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.891042, 142.381115

description

Victoria's most popular bouldering destination. Lots of free standing Font style formations with nice soft landings. Take care of the ground vegetation as it has taken a battering since boulderers discovered this area. More info will be added later by Alister Robertson (or so we thought back in 2005...).

© (Hatsu)

access issues

Andersens bouldering area has been split into East and West by Parks Victoria. Climbing is prohibited in Andersens East, but allowed in the designated climbing area of Andersens West. The boundary between East and West is between Sydney Highrise Boulder and Andersens Consulting Boulder. Climbing is allowed in the west and southwest areas, including Sydney Highrise, which are known as the Clicke and Lower Clicke regions. Note that the Andersens maps in the 2016 Grampians Bouldering guide book have north oriented down.

approach

From the Hollow Mountain carpark, take the main walking track up towards Hollow Mountain. The steps will finish and you will be following yellow arrows gently up slightly rocky scramble. After few minutes you will see a sign on your right that has a map of some rock climbing and bouldering sites in the area. Take a right at this sign and follow a fairly well trodden trail (please stay on the trail). The first boulders you see on your walk (mostly to the left of the track) are the Amnesty Area. Further along the trail are the more well known boulders of the Left Main and Right Main areas. At the end of the Right Main area the trees/undergrowth thin out to a more rocky, open plateau. This is Lower Clicke. Head back uphill towards the cliffline to Clicke area.

1.7.8. Clicke Wall 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.891504, 142.381042

access issues

This grey compact wall is on the 'To be Reviewed' list… although there's some confusion as Clicke area was a "Designated" area in the Draft plan; but isn't mentioned at all in the Final GGLMP.

1.7.9. Kindergarten 47 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.892484, 142.380889

description

This section of cliff includes the Kindergarten bouldering, and (mostly old) routes in this area.

1.7.10. Expedition Crag 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.7.11. Turtle Rocks 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.7.12. Sandinista Cliffs 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.892190, 142.384564

access issues

Sandinista is split into East and West in the GGLMP. Everything East of the tourist trail is "Designated".

1.7.13. Pensioners Wall Area 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.891396, 142.382910

description

A little piece of English gritstone tucked away below the treeline just north of the mighty 'Sandinista' Wall. These short routes are only worth doing on the way to other climbing areas and are also suitable for top-roping. The crag gets little sun apart from early in the morning.

© (nmonteith)

approach

Follow small track right from 'Sandinista' Wall for 30m to find the blocky north east facing Pensioners Wall and south facing bolted boulder of 'Moral Vandal' Block.

© (nmonteith)

1.7.14. Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block 55 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.892218, 142.382906

1.7.15. Loopeys 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.892474, 142.381789

1.7.16. Hollow Mountain Cave 47 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.891844, 142.381889

description

Australia's premier roof bouldering venue. Unless you boulder harder than V7 don't bother with this place. The hardest 'problem' is the V16 78-move ceiling called 'The Wheel Of Life' by Dai Koyamada.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

According to a 2016 "Rock Climbing and Bouldering Update" from PV, Hollow Mountain Cave "is a significant site for Aboriginal people, please leave no trace of chalk".

There is close proximity to tourists, which walk through and around it as part of the Hollow Mt walk and there is still tourist 'trampling and graffiti', which is not likely to decrease when climbers are removed. You can still do all the problems, provided your feet are on the ground.

© (nmonteith)

1.7.17. Legoland 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.893511, 142.386915

description

400m to the left of Sandinista Wall

1.7.18. Cut Lunch Walls 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.893995, 142.386779

description

Some popular sport routes on a small Taipanesque wall, and some not so popular trad lines. This is a cliff of wide variety and offers several days worth of action for the mid grade 20’s climber. A stick-clip is useful for the routes on the upper wall.

access issues

On the 'urgent review' priority 1 list.

approach

960m from carpark. 36.53663s, 142.23.178e.

Keep following the base of the cliff line south west from White Wall past acres of blank rock for 300m until the cliff starts to breaks down. At the first opportunity scramble up the small wall on the right. There should be a small rock cairn halfway up this 6m wall which shows the way. If you miss this step-up you will end up stumbling around at the base of a short poxy cliff cursing the guidebook authors. At the time of this guidebook research there is a small man-made rock wall and sticks blocking the wrong path. Once above this short wall you will see a high orange wall, this is Upper Cut Lunch Wall where most of the sport routes are. Below and to the right of this wall are several of the trad routes.

Routes from 1-9 are on Lower Cut Lunch Wall. Routes from 10-18 are on Upper Cut Lunch Wall. Routes described from right to left. This wall gets full sun until about 1pm. It is cool and breezy and shady in the afternoon.

history

In the late 1980’s intrepid explorer Dave Vass started things rolling with the fine corner of 'The Snatch' (23). A year later Jon Bassindale dragged a few fellow Poms up the impressive and bold 'Romeo is Bleeding' (23) - which is unfortunately the only feasible line up the full height of the superb blank orange wall dominating the left side of the crag. The cliff remained un-loved for more than ten years until sport climbers began to notice the lovely orange rock high up on the ledge above the grey jugs. Kent Paterson and Julian Saunders both inspected the wall but abandoned first ascent attempts because of the seemingly bad access. This didn’t stop Neil Monteith and Nick McKinnon from appearing in 2001 and cleaning up a swag of quality sport routes and establishing an easy way up to the ledge. The addition of a few gnarly trad routes in the last few years has filled in the gaps.

1.7.19. Koalasquatsy Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.894714, 142.387247

description

Home of some beautiful rock, mighty lines and a few easy scary jug-fests. Renewed interest in this area has created a good collection of varied classics. This is the south-eastern continuation of 'Cut Lunch Walls', with the two being separated by the awesome but very blank 30m wall of immaculate orange stone.

© (nmonteith)

approach

From 'Cut Lunch Walls' follow a (sometimes) cairned rock ridge following the big blank cliff-line as closely as possible. About 80m left of 'Raindancer' and on a ledge above is 'Koalasquatsy Wall'. The black corner of 'Koalasquatsy' and the amazing south facing orange wall of 'Us Esoterics' should be obvious. To get onto the belay ledge keep walking 50m south (towards 'Tribute' Wall) and scramble back R up a small gully. Descent for most of these climbs are dedicated rap anchors, however for the longer older routes it is via bollard slings near the top of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah or by ringbolts above Cut Lunch Wall. Crag faces into the sun in the morning. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

1.7.20. Tribute Wall 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.895067, 142.387624

description

A small sport climbing area with a few intermediate graded face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and pumpy.

1.7.21. The Dungeon 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.895479, 142.388450

description

A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms.

This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal.

The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

It is unknown why the Dungeon is not permitted, given it's relative obscurity, grey vertical rock and proximity to many Designated crags.

© (nmonteith)

approach

Option 1 - scramble in: walk out from 'Run Rabbit Run' for 50m; this will take you to the top of the far left end (ie climber's left) of the Dungeon. Scramble down short 3m high wall with assistance from fixed rope. Bloody strenuous, but only for a few metres!

Option 2 - walk in from VD Land: it is quite easy to walk in (5-10 minutes); pick up the rough track from where it drops down from opposite Terminal Insomnia. Obviously this is quite a big loop to take from the carpark, but it's handy to know about if you're already at VD Land.

Option 3 - walk in direct ie from the Hollow Mountain Car Park (not recommended): although it is also possible to take a direct route in to the cliff (by staying low and avoiding the climb up towards Cut Lunch Walls), there is no track and is not recommended.

Option 4 (not recommended) - rap in: walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff to bolted anchor. Alternatively tie off a natural anchor.

© (nmonteith)

1.7.22. Bad Moon Rising Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.895639, 142.388176

description

The slabby streaked walls between 'Tribute Wall' and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Cliff faces into the sun until mid-afternoon. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

approach

1200m from carpark and 580m from 'Sandinista' Wall. 36.53.730s, 142.23.270e. Walk through the 'Tribute' Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree and airy step-across to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre.

© (nmonteith)

descent notes

Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The 'Chicken'.

© (nmonteith)

history

Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for decades until Monty was researching a new online guide in 2005. A few weekends later and the area sprung from only two easy trad routes to quite a collection of nice midrange sport climbs.

© (nmonteith)

1.7.23. Van Diemen's Land 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.896589, 142.388859

description

Some of the best sport climbing in the mid 20s in the Grampians - that remains approved by PV. Beware of some expansion bolts on the Pocketed Wall that have started to loosen - take a spanner to tighten. Most have been rebolted with glue-ins.

1.7.24. Rambla Wall 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

This 'not permitted' bouldering overhang is right on the tourist trail, and boulderer's are better of going elsewhere.

© (boardlord)

approach

This is the overhanging wall directly above 'Sandinista' Wall and right on the Hollow Mtn summit track. The boulder problems are on the upper side of the cleft through which the walking track passes. The landing is steep stepped rock so mats are essential - and you will be forever moving them out of the way to let walkers get past - it is really tight in there. 'Problems' are described left to right facing the cliff.

© (boardlord)

1.7.25. A-Frame Boulders 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Not a bouldering area! Several nice trad face routes on a difficult to access wall. The crag is plainly obvious from the carpark but quite hard to locate when you actually reach the local area. It is the outer face of the 'Tribute' Walls.

© (nmonteith)

approach

Best access is to walk from the far left end of White Wall without going up the rock step toward 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Keep going more or less horizontally for 100m, and you should end up on a terrace which ends under the A-Frame Boulder. Alternatively, abseil in from a bollard at the top of the blocks about 20m outwards of 10 AM (see 'Tribute' Wall).

© (nmonteith)

1.8. Iskra Crag 91 routes in Crag

3 2 4 6 1 5

1 Western Crags 2 Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers 3 Interpretation Wall 4 Eastern Walls 5 Emu Crag 6 Lemonade Wall

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.888621, 142.392865

summary

Now updated with all new and old climbs from the original North Grampians guidebook. Not everything has been verified, if you spot a mistake, feel free to correct.

description

Climbing variety on at times quality sandstone.

access issues

None

approach

There's two ways to get there. 1) If climbing on the Western side, approach from Hollow Mt Carpark. 2) If climbing on the Eastern side, drive East along Mt Zero road for 2km. Park at the start of an old 4WD track which branches off to the right (-36.883475, 142.397560), 300m before Mt zero road passes the telephone tower. Follow the track marked with pink tape which approaches the wall in a 45-degree angle from the east (this is slightly easier than bashing in from the road.

history

First climbed in 1968, saw quite a bit of activity in the late 80's, before lying in obscurity (possibly for good reasons) until a few sport lines were put up around 2009 and again in 2017.

1.8.1. Western Crags 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888166, 142.391765

description

All the climbing areas on Western side of Iskra. Mostly easy trad climbing. Most crags face west, so have sun after 1pm.

approach

Approach these crags from the Hollow Mountain carpark. Take the walking track almost to the Gulgurn Manja Shelter. Where it turns West - walk SE straight to the crag. The first outcrop you should come to is Flower Power Block.

1.8.2. Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.887543, 142.392219

description

Includes the first route done (Dolgoruki Direct) and the East facing orange wall to the L. It is complicated somewhat by the 3 tiers that the climbs start from.

approach

Approach as to Flower Power Block, then drop down to the L and around onto the toe of the buttress. (Can also be approached from the Eastern side)

1.8.3. Interpretation Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.886869, 142.393061

description

Wall with orange streaks facing Mt Zero Road road (-36.886852, 142.392997). This is a perfect winter crag; short walk-in, sheltered from the wind and in the sun the whole day.

approach

From Hollow Mountain car park, drive along MT Zero road to the east for 2km. Park at the start of an old 4wd track which branches off to the right (-36.883475, 142.397560), 300m before Mt zero road passes the telephone tower. Follow the track marked with pink tape which approaches the wall in a 45-degree angle from the east.

descent notes

All climbs have double RB anchors.

1.8.4. Eastern Walls 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.887593, 142.393129

description

The Eastern walls is the line cliffs higher up on the Eastern side of Iskra. It contains climbs from the original guide, and also newer bolted climbs and projects. Routes vary considerably, but there is some great rock to be found, even if the best bits aren't all that long.

approach

As for Interpretation Walls - follow a flat / easy marked trail from a short 4WD trail a few hundred metres west of the telephone tower. About 15 mins.

1.8.5. Emu Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.889644, 142.393139

description

Small outcrop up behind Iskra proper.

1.8.6. Lemonade Wall 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Aid climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.887912, 142.389078

description

Short but incredibly steep orange wall which overhangs approx 45 degrees. Has been both aided (historically), and now known also as Project wall in the bouldering guide. The aid routes AND boulders have been listed, but they are often the same lines.

approach

Easiest approach is for Iskra Crag West - follow the walking trail to the cave paintings, and about 50m before it, head roughly South for a 100m until you see the wall.

history

Most routes first climbed as Aid climbs in 1989. "All climbs have been aided on nuts, camming thingies and hooks". "Most, if not all, should go free to those made of the right stuff", so they put up the routes knowing that they might be free climbed. Most of the problems were completed in 2011.

1.8.7. 36 Chambers 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.8.8. In The Cloud Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

description

Grampians Bouldering 2016 Edition includes this boulder as part of Project Wall. However it is quite separate from that area, being well west of the Gulgurn Manja Shelter, while Project Wall is considerably east of that. As such this sector is not part of the Bouldering Area at Project Wall and bouldering is no longer permitted.

1.9. NE Mt Zero Range 73 routes in Crag

1

1 Golton Rocks

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.921605, 142.422464

description

This area covers crags on the eastern flanks of the Mt. Zero range accessed from the Mt. Zero to Halls Gap Rd. At the North end, Iskra Crags are separately described because they're usually accessed from 'Hollow Mountain' car park. The southern extremity of this area is the Roses Gap Rd (with crags further south being covered under the Mt Difficult Range). Although 'The Rockwall' crag has conventionally been grouped under the Mt Difficult Range, it is included in this section for two reasons: (1) it is north of Roses Gap Rd; and (2) it is on the NW (Mt Zero) side of the main valley which divides the Mt. Zero range from the Mt Difficult Range.

Please note that until further notice camping in caves is not permitted by Parks 'Victoria'.

© (jgoding)

1.9.1. Golton Rocks 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.900051, 142.413042

access issues

On the urgent "to be reviewed asap" list.

1.9.2. Golton Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Just one climb?

1.9.3. Gog-Magog Crag 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Only 3 minor routes

1.9.4. G-Land 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

access issues

The access track that used to go up the gorge has been closed (so we understand). Golton Gorge is also in a Cultural Values SPA (CV10), which is an "Intact Country Precinct", and there is reportably a CH site at the waterfall at the bottom of the gorge. The routes here are also in original condition and have seen few if any repeat ascents. Perhaps find opportunities elsewhere.

1.9.5. Coppermine Track Cliff 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A reasonably extensive cliff but broken in parts by terraces and rotten overhangs. It provides a few pleasant middle grade routes and has easy access. Wear a helmet as the rock is fairly crumbly in places.

© (willmonks)

approach

From the Roses Gap/Mt Zero Rd, drive 1km NW along the Coppermine Track. The cliff is directly above. The walk is about 10 minutes. Routes described from Right to Left.

© (willmonks)

1.10. The Rockwall Area 50 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.961937, 142.439311

1.10.1. Barr's Buttress 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.10.2. The Rockwall 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

access issues

PV Has Split the Rockwall into 2 areas… (includes 'Black Ferral Cat area') but both are 'Designated'. Access is tricky though, as you need to walk in via Roses Gap Rec center, so the public's ability to access this cliff is unknown at present.

1.11. North-West Mt Difficult Range 95 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.013965, 142.439471

description

Home to some classics.

Useful Info: 45min walk in up a steep, well defined track.

© (jgoding)

approach

Just past Roses Gap rec centre, about 30mins off the highway

© (jgoding)

1.11.1. Troopers Creek Cliff 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

The large orange cliffs running east from Tilwinda Falls. Much of the rock is broken looking and quite steep. Natural lines are few and far between, and usually consist of rubbish rock.

This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA

© (nmonteith)

approach

From the Troopers Creek campground follow the tourist track to Tilwinda Falls (this is not the same track as the regular Mt Difficult track). When the tourist track suddenly steepens and arrives at cliffs, cross the creek on the left and scramble up to the orange cliff-line. Walk along and up to the left (steeply) keeping as close as possible to the cliff base. Five minutes from the creek crossing you will reach the original Wayne Maher route. 15 minutes walk all up.

© (nmonteith)

1.11.2. Mt Bloody Impossible 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

This cliff sits on the edge of the CV14 SPA… but the long walk and lack of routes should also keep climbers away.

1.11.3. Mt Difficult Cliff 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

description

Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.

access issues

This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.

approach

The Troopers Creek campsite is permanently closed but the climbing access still starts from this site.

You can park at a turnout opposite the old Troopers Creek Campsite. Cars parked at the Troopers Creek site have had their windows smashed, contents stolen, and tyres slashed (Nov 2018). Perhaps this could be avoided if you ensure your car looks like it has nothing worth stealing inside?

The start of the walking track isn't obvious, but it can be found towards the top right area of the cleared area that was used for camping. Once you reach the first wooden steps it's easy to follow, so long as you anticipate a lot of traversing (rather than heading straight up to the cliff): if you find yourself bush bashing then you've gone too direct! The track goes past the 'Wind Cave' boulder then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'

1.11.4. Epaminondas Buttress 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Sound rock, good climbing and inspiring positions give this buttress one of the best collections of long middle grade classics in the 'Grampians'.

This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.

© (jgoding)

approach

About 200m to the right of the main wall. Meander across from where the track hits the main Mt Difficult wall.

© (jgoding)

descent notes

To descend from 'Sword in the Stone' and the routes to its right head back from the cliff edge then trend left heading for a gully. Although there are numerous cairns, vegetation has taken over this once well trod path.

© (jgoding)

1.11.5. Mt Difficult Summit 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.

1.11.6. Sickle Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

access issues

South of Mt Difficult - and outside the CV14 SPA

1.11.7. Mawson Slab 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

This is the slab that forms the left side of the descent gully for Sickle Wall.

South of Mt Difficult - and outside the CV14 SPA

1.11.8. Carter's Col 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

This cliff is just South of Carter's Track (well South of Mt Difficult Cliff)

access issues

Cliff is outside the CV14 SPA

1.12. Briggs Bluff Area 83 routes in Area

1 7 2 3 4

1 Beehive Falls 2 Mirage Wall 3 Drama Wall 4 Pacific Ocean Wall 7 Centurion Walls

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.985436, 142.460866

1.12.1. Beehive Falls 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.973855, 142.452442

description

Despite not being on any 'banned area' list specifically, this crag is closed due to it's immediate proximity to the popular tourist area.

1.12.2. Mirage Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.977030, 142.454655

description

Just one scrappy route

1.12.3. Drama Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -36.978329, 142.452928

1.12.4. Pacific Ocean Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -36.986516, 142.445812

description

Pacific Ocean Wall is a spectacular wall of unbroken rock, 100-120m high, stretching for over a kilometer. Access to Pacific Ocean Wall has dramatically improved with the construction of the Grampians Peaks Trail which now runs along the base of the entire cliff, then turns back to run along the top of the cliff for half of its length before turning off towards Briggs Bluff. While the remote feel of the cliff has diminished to some extent, the spectacle of the cliff hasn’t and it is a lot easier to approach, inspect and descend from climbs on the wall.

access issues

Probably would have been listed as "not permitted" by PV were it not for the legal action that was launched (but later dropped) by the VCC. PV relented by making this a Designated crag, as there was no specific reason to ban it.

approach

Follow the Briggs Bluff trail via Beehive Falls. After the steep climb out of Beehive Falls, the track levels out and follows Pacific Ocean Wall southwards. Continue along the trail for about a kilometre before the cliff steepens and becomes more uniform.

1.12.5. Distortion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.12.6. Briggs Bluff 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A large Blue Mountains looking buttress overlooking the Western 'Highway'. Much of it is total choss.

This much-maligned cliff turned out to be a forgotten treasure. A good rediscovery by Mike. It’s a long walk in but well worth it. The new routes are all at the right end of the cliff. They are best approached by skirting around from the Beehive Falls track above Drama Wall. This takes about 1¼ hour from the road. Routes described from right to left. Start by finding Silk Road.

A topo can be found in the VCC Mt Difficult online update 2007. https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

© (nmonteith)

1.12.7. Centurion Walls 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.974541, 142.459788

description

This is a semi-sport crag located below the 'Briggs Bluff' massif. The rock is steep orange sandstone walls with the occasional cave thrown in for good measure. Most of the better routes are grade 20+ and protected mainly by bolts.

The fixed equipment used on this cliff are either stainless steel expansion bolts or glue-in ringbolts. Most climbs have rap anchors to facilitate easy descent and cleaning. The first ascentionists have endeavored to camouflage fixed equipment by painting hangers and rings with matt textured paint. The first bolts on routes are usually relatively high off the deck so a stickclip is useful. Much of the rock is soft, so try and avoid climbing within 24 hours of recent rain. Routes such as 'Winged Corpse', 'Psychotic Episode' and 'Killer Wolf' are good wet weather routes. Black streaks on the rock are marks of water seepage which means these routes are not climbable after heavy rain.

A light rack of gear is required for many of the routes - a single set of cams and wires will suffice on all apart from 'Kublai Khan' and 'Stone Temptress'. There is still some potential for new lines to be done.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

Pending priority review (by May 2023)

© (nmonteith)

approach

These cliffs are in the Mt Difficult Range (Nth Grampians), in 'Victoria'. From 'Melbourne' drive to Stawell and continue north towards Horshum for about 15 minutes, then take the well signposted road left to Roses Gap. If you drive past the Big Koala you have gone too far. Approx 10km down this road just before Roses Gap turn left down Roses Gap/Mt Zero Road (dirt) heading south for 1.2 km (24km north from Delley's Bridge in Halls Gap). Park on the side of the road near a large rock cairn. In the distance on the right is a low orange wall (Centurion) with a large grey wall above (Briggs Bluff). The upper wall has a large arch formation. Follow well cut track with some tape markers and rock cairns for about 15 minutes, walking through light scrub to arrive at the centre of the 'Lower Wall'.

If you want to camp the two best bets are the Fire Dam about 500m along Halls Gap/Mt Zero Rd from Roses Gap or Troopers Creek campsite (payment required) which is several kilometers west along Roses Gap Rd. You can also camp in a sheltered sandy cave to the right of 'Progressive Happy House' at the cliff.

© (nmonteith)

1.12.8. Deep Creek Walls 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.12.9. Deep Creek Blocks 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.12.10. The End of the Earth 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

This is the small attractive looking cliff above th e left end of Briggs Bluff, which is obvious from the Halls Gap – Mt Zero Road just north of Deep Creek.

approach

Best approach is to walk directly uphill form the Halls Gap Mt Zero Road from the corner 600m north o f Deep Creek. This will take you up a broad gully to the ridge top. Follow the ridge north to the cliff.

1.13. Eastern Mt Difficult Range 244 routes in Area

2 3 4 5 8 9 10 11 12 13 22 14 15 16 17 18 19

2 Wildebeest 3 Split Pinnacle 4 No Mans Land 5 Heatherlie Heights 8 Syria 9 Lebanon 10 The Promised Land 11 Pine Wall 12 Lunar Walls 13 Lichen Land 14 Goat Crag 15 Mirage Rock 16 Hardenbergia Rocks 17 Breakfast Room Buttresses 18 Gang-Gang Rocks 19 Currajong Rocks 22 Lake Wartook Lookout Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.059115, 142.496436

access issues

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

1.13.1. The Cinders 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.2. Wildebeest 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.008284, 142.475825

description

A major cliffline south of Deep Creek... offering expansive views, sunny cliffs, and water in the creek (Winter-spring). The climbing is interesting and varied... Although some of the rock is soft and sandy, there are quality walls, features and moves to be found. WINTER: Most cliffs (except a few South facing walls) are in the sun all day. SUMMER: Probably best to avoid, but there are a number of cliffs that start seeing the shade from 11am.

access issues

On the "to be assessed" list. If PV can manage the approach. Creek Cliff might be the more convenient option for assessment.

approach

You can locate this cliff from the massive scar high up on the range just south of Deep Creek. A steep, one hour walk-in with some scrambling required. Ignore previous info to walk in from the top, which is long and convoluted. You gain some 350m in elevation in about 1.5km.

Location: 5.3km S of Roses Gap Rd / 6.6km N of Plantation Campground, about 200m S of where a vague creek crosses the Rd flanked by road markers. Pin (-37.003211, 142.488704)

The initial trail (about 50m in) is hard to pickup, and breaks off slightly R - but should not involve any bushbashing so be patient to find it! Once you're at the first outcrop the terrain opens up and a cairned trail leads the way.

history

First visited in 2001 when a couple of routes were established by accessing from the top of the range, it wasn't until 2017 that the full extent of the area was explored when Goshen dragged a bunch of unwitting climbers up on his 40th birthday.

1.13.3. Split Pinnacle 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.013463, 142.485562

approach

Approximately 1.5km North of the Heatherlie Quarry track there is a rough 4WD track leading west (park here unless you have high clearance). From the end of this try and follow old cairns up the hill to the base of the pinnacle.

descent notes

Simplest descent is to walk about 50m left from the top of the pinnacle, then scramble down.

1.13.4. No Mans Land 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.019216, 142.488859

description

This is the cliff to the right (north) of Heatherlie Heights. It has tall and imposing lines, and a number of inspiring routes, but the effort required to access the cliff will deter many people.

access issues

There is a cultural Values (CV15) site on the way up to these cliffs, although they are quite separate. CV15 appears to co-incide with the actual Heatherly Quarry - where stone was quarried (by Europeans) for some famous buildings in Melbourne, and this quarry is on the Vic Heritage Register.

approach

From the intersection of Pines Road and the Mt Zero - Halls Gap Road, head north 4.24km to the Heatherlie Track intersection and car park, then continue north along the Mt Zero - Halls Gap Road for 1km. Walk 780 metres south-west straight up to the right end of the cliff, keeping out of the gully that leads up to the cliff. Allow 40-60 minutes for the approach.

1.13.5. Heatherlie Heights 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.021294, 142.490116

access issues

There is a cultural Values (CV15) site on the way up to these cliffs, although they are quite separate. CV15 appears to co-incide with the actual Heatherly Quarry - where stone was quarried (by Europeans) for some famous buildings in Melbourne, and this quarry is on the Vic Heritage Register.

1.13.6. Cape Canaveral 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.7. Woomera 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.8. Syria 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.051423, 142.504292

summary

Pleasant middle grade routes with easy access and handy abseil descent.

approach

1km north from where Pines Road joins the Halls Gap - Mt Zero Rd [at the Pine Plantation campsite]. Walk or drive up the 4wd track on the left/west for 400m to the cross road [straight on takes you to Lebanon]. Turn right and follow the track for 200m. Walk up hill about 200m then head R and cross the creek. Walk up the R side of the creek to the cliff. A 15 minute walk from the Halls Gap/Mt Zero road or 5 minutes if you drive in.

1.13.9. Lebanon 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.054255, 142.505141

description

Just North of the Promised Land, Lebanon is a continuation from the broken slabs at the R end of that cliff. Unusually for the Grampians the cliff has a number of multi pitch slab routes. Middle grade slab climbs predominate and they all need natural pro to supplement bolts. Quality is variable but the access and descents are easy. Jihad Jack is probably the pick of the routes. At the top of the first pitch of Jihad Jack is a DBB and abseil chains. Many of the routes converge at this belay as this approach avoids having to cross any bushy ledges. The 2 pitch routes all use one of the two DBBs and abseil anchors and chains at the top of Jihad Jack or Jack Thomas. 2 ropes are needed for the abseils, altho’ a single 60m would suffice for the lower abseil and the descent from above Jack Thomas. Some of the glue in carrots are awkward to clip [we put them in a bit deep], flat rather than angled brackets work best or carry some wires.

approach

Drive North about 1 km from the Pine Plantation Campground heading towards Roses Gap to the 2nd 4wd track on the L. Walk or drive up to the end of this and continue to the cliff. Head L along the foot of the broken cliff until you hit a large slabby area bounded on the R by a bushy gully between it and a big steep buttress. This is the RH end of the cliff where Hezbollah is. About 10mins walk from the road, 5 mins from top car park. If you walk L along the foot of the cliff from the Hezbollah area for about 250m you come to an area of grey slabs a bit like a lump of the North Jawbone transported to the Grampians. The slabs are bounded on the L by an easy angled square cut corner.

descent notes

There are DBB abseil anchors covering most of the routes on the main slabs.

1.13.10. The Promised Land 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.059573, 142.506209

description

An accessible cliff with a reasonable collection of middle grade routes. More traffic would help to keep them cleaner. The main cliff is L shaped. The routes around Loose End are on a large South Wall the other routes from Blackbeard rightward face East [towards the campground].

access issues

This cliff contains Cultural Values (CV16), although it's suspected to be on the large boulders below the crag itself (which is mostly scrubby wall climbing). However this area was also singled out as being closed in the draft plan.

approach

From the Mt Difficult Plantation Campsite which is 8.6km along the Halls Gap-Mt Zero Rd from Halls Gap. Follow the signed walking track towards Boroka Lookout/Brigg's Bluff. This intersects with a 4wd track. Turn R [North] and after about 150m head uphill into a clearing [often cairned]. Walk uphill about 100m then turn R to cross a usually dry creek bed near some big boulders. Continue on about 50m past these then head up hill towards the cliff avoiding any thick shrub. There are faint tracks which tend to deposit you around the Blackbeard area.

1.13.11. Pine Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.068816, 142.506367

description

The second cliff south of The Promised Land is distinguished by a very prominent corner leading to roof [Pine Trap].

approach

Take the 4wd track 900m south of the Mt Difficult Plantation west (as for Lunar Walls) to where it meets the north/south track. From the intersection, walk straight up, pass around the right hand end of the first small cliff line then head left to the cliff. 30 minutes from the Halls Gap/Mt Zero road. Descend via a long and complex walk off at the right end.

1.13.12. Lunar Walls 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.071222, 142.507830

approach

Drive 8.7km from Halls Gap along the Halls Gap/Mt Zero Road. (MAP) Turn left into rough dirt road and follow this to T junction (4WD required). Turn left and drive aprox. 300m along this road past a small creek crossing and park. If you don't have a 4WD take care when parking, the edges of the track are very soft and you WILL get bogged. Bush bash uphill following the pink tape markers for 10 minutes to base of Lower Lunar Crag. To reach the upper cliffs walk to far right of the lower cliff and upwards to obvious big red cave. If you don't have a 4WD walking time is aprox 25min.

history

Discovered in 1998 by Neil Monteith. This was the first crag he discovered and bolted at in Victoria.

1.13.13. Lichen Land 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.078224, 142.507907

description

Cilff faces SSE. Walking time ten minutes.

approach

Follow the Halls Gap road north from Red Gum Lease Track for 5.6 km to a four wheel drive track on the left. Follow this SW for 800m until it intersects with a major four wheel drive track running N-S. Turn right (north) for 250 m until below cliff with diagonals visible on its SSE face. Walk 250m uphill to lower cliff, then skirt this on left and scramble u p to upper cliff.

1.13.14. Goat Crag 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.080130, 142.508921

description

There is only one line of any real merit on the cliff, up the middle.

approach

Follow the Halls Gap—Mt Zero road N from Red Gum Lease Track for 5.6 km to a four-wheel-drive track on the left. Turn on to this and follow it SW for 800 m to T intersection. Turn right and continue north for 150 m. Walk steeply uphill for 200 m. Cliff faces NE. Walking time ten minutes.

1.13.15. Mirage Rock 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.086007, 142.509748

description

The cliff faces north-east.

approach

Follow the Halls Gap-Mt Zero Road north from the Re d Gum Lease Track for 4.5 km to a 4wd track on the left. Follow this mainly west for 700m to junction and park. Walk west up the 4wd track to its end. Now veer up right to east end of cliff. Walk ing time 10 minutes.

1.13.16. Hardenbergia Rocks 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.096360, 142.513338

description

Another of Chris Baxter’s new cliffs, probably previously visited during the search for Mirage Rock.

approach

From an intersection on the Halls Gap – Mt Zero Road 2.0 km north of Red Gum Lease Track, take vehicle track west for 400m then turn right and fol low vehicle track north for 1.5 km. Walk uphill west through light scrub for 450m (15 minutes) to the cliff.

1.13.17. Breakfast Room Buttresses 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.099427, 142.513277

description

You guessed it. Another Baxter cliff!

approach

From an intersection on the Halls Gap – Mt Zero Road 2.0 km north of Red Gum Lease Track, take vehicle track west for 400m then turn right and follow vehicle track north for 1.0 km. Walk uphill for 15 minutes to the cliff. A small cairn can be seen next to the track. Follow the cairned track. Find Marmalade at the right end of the cliff. The vehicle track is shorter and smoother if approached from the North. 2wd access not recommended from the South with a number of dips and rocky sections.

1.13.18. Gang-Gang Rocks 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.101827, 142.512955

description

Cliff & climbs taken from VCC Mt Difficult update 2007.

https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

approach

From an intersection on the Halls Gap – Mt Zero Road 2.1 km north of Red Gum Lease Track, take vehicle track west for 400m then turn right and follow vehicle track north for 1km. Walk uphill west through light scrub for 450m (10 minutes) to the cliff. A pair of creeks broaches the escarpment at the right end of the cliff. Routes are cairned.

1.13.19. Currajong Rocks 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.104941, 142.513809

description

Currajong Rocks is a surprisingly extensive series of pinnacles and buttresses of compact, brown sandstone lurking under forest. Some climbs will “clean up with traffic”.

Area and climbs taken from VCC Mt Difficult online update 2007. https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

approach

ollow the Halls Gap-Mt Zero road N from the Red Gum Lease Track for 2.1 km to where it is crossed by a vehicle track. Turn left (West) on this and follow it for 400 m to an intersection. Turn right (North) for 200 m. (Two-wheel-drive to here.) Walk uphill (W) through open forest for 450 m. All climbs are cairned. They are described from left to right, first on the lower cliff, then the upper. Cliffs faces East. Walking time ten minutes to lower cliff, 15 minutes to upper cliff.

1.13.20. The Heavens 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.21. Lower Heavens 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.22. Lake Wartook Lookout Area 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -37.079470, 142.499597

summary

Area with few crags, on and at the end of the Lake Wartook Lookout

description

The area at the Lake Wartook Lookout

access issues

Located nearby the CV17 SPA, although the crag is definitely not within it.

approach

Drive along the dirt road adjacent to Boroka lookout for a few kilometers (to be updated) until reached a very small parking area which marks the start of the Lake Wartook Lookout trail. Continue along the ~500m trail for boulders further in.

ethic

ACCESS IS CLOSED

history

Undeveloped

1.13.23. The Tim Tams 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.14. Asses Ears Area 280 routes in Area

1 2 3 8 9 4 5 6 10 7

1 Asses Ears 2 Sunset Crags 3 Cherub Wall 4 Maul Wall 5 Wallaby Rocks 6 Joey Blocks 7 The Secret Crags 8 Conifer Wall 9 Porcelain Wall 10 Brim Springs

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.123644, 142.332872

description

A wild area tucked away on the far west of the 'Grampians'. The rock is generally gritty and featured.

© (aca_admin)

1.14.1. Asses Ears 80 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.093099, 142.329293

access issues

Part of the "NV4" SPA (Natural Values), which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby, although there are no immediate plans to do this. The area was investigated as a list of "potential sites" in a report to PV in 2012.

approach

There is still an old 4WD trail that somehow goes 2/3 the way up the mountain.

1.14.2. Sunset Crags 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.098431, 142.319465

access issues

Part of the "NV4" SPA, which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby.

1.14.3. Cherub Wall 54 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.098844, 142.334448

description

Part of the "NV4" SPA, which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby. Although Cherub and Maul Wall was listed as Banned in the draft GGLMP, possibly due to proximity to CV21, even though they are not part of it.

1.14.4. Maul Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.102934, 142.329932

description

Part of the "NV4" SPA, which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby. Although Cherub and Maul Wall was listed as Banned in the draft GGLMP, possibly due to proximity to CV21, even though they are not part of it.

1.14.5. Wallaby Rocks 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.109498, 142.327717

description

A long cliffline, with easy access, but unfortunately caught up in the climbing bans, and the cliff is part of CV21 (Cultural Values).

access issues

Part of the "NV4" SPA, which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby. Cliff is within the CV21 area with Cultural Values.

approach

Wallaby Rocks Road goes directly above the crag.

1.14.6. Joey Blocks 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.111370, 142.328710

description

Small Crag right next to / Above Wallaby Rocks and near the road. Part of the "NV4" SPA, which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby. Cliff is within the CV21 area with Cultural Values.

1.14.7. The Secret Crags 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.116986, 142.319435

access issues

Part of the "NV4" SPA, which is a designation for the "potential release" of the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby.

1.14.8. Conifer Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.099941, 142.287950

description

An insignificant cliff, but there are no overlays with this crag.

1.14.9. Porcelain Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.101649, 142.292268

description

Insignificant cliff next to Conifer Wall. There are no overlays with this crag.

1.14.10. Brim Springs 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.115589, 142.275472

access issues

Brim Springs has what is called "shared Cultural Values" and is a "colonial heritage site" according to the GGLMP - so is a place of history / importance to both European and Aboriginal people. The overlay is CV22. We don't know whether (or in what way) the cliff itself is part of the Cultural Heritage of this site, but it is certainly within the zone.