Routes in North Grampians for selected grade

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

You would have to be extremely desperate.

The scrubby second corner, R of Waiting.

Past 'Lost Daze' and the unclimbed arete, on the small wall at the end of the cliff. Follow the obvious line.

A face crack 5m L of the corner to a ledge below the overhang. Heavens knows what happens there.

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners' route with (mostly) excellent rock, big features and good pro.

Start by squeezing up a chimney feature adjacent to the Peregrinator Boulder (3m L of the tricky starting crack of Mission Over Tokyo). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo, eventually arriving at a DRBB. Step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully (DRBB). If you wish to reach the summit, scramble up the short right wall (poor protection).

The first line on the cliff.

Start: Start below and L of the line.

1. 33m (8) Climb to a ledge, move R and past the bush on the R. Follow the line to below the overhang.

2. 7m (8) Easily out L and up.

Apparently only 1m R of 'Jupiter', but 29m longer and 5 grades easier...

Start: Start 5m R of the R chimney.

Start: Start between the two chimneys.

1. 25m (8) Add a few grades the further you start to the right. Up jugs just L of crack to ledge.

2. 21m (8) Up to follow large crack.

About 25m right of Viewfinder is a prominent chimney line. Up.

Climbs the slab to the base of the scrubby chimney 5m right of 'Attila'. Traverse left on the rotten juggy wall into the corner and finish as for pitch one of 'Attila'.

Start from base of Piracy's corner (i.e. a few metres right of the start to 'Clicke Crack'. By the way, why did this most obvious of obvious routes need to be chisel-initialled in the first place?!) Head up diagonally right to blunt arete. Follow this to top. Just a climb - care factor? Rap off boulders, or take the standard death route descent down the wall beside 'Piracy'.

Shocking pile of poo. The guidebook author walked past this three times before realizing it was actually a climb! Old school chimney for dwarfs.

Start: East facing wall 12m right of 'Sedition'. Don't get it mixed up with the boulder problems surrounding it.

The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'.

The corner line L of the prominent chimney.

The easy corner immediately R of the narrow chimney, moving L at the top for an easy exit.

Start: 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct on the W facing part of the buttress. Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off.

Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line'.

Follow the diagonal on P2 of Hezbollah for about 10m then head straight up the black streak finishing steeply up the head wall above the orange streaks.

A fun juggy ramble sharing the same start as Picture Rail. 1. 45m Follow the right trending ramp flake to belay on the arete below the roof. 2. 5m Bail off right into the gully and exit up over the chockstones into the descent route.

Small crack opposite boulder 6 metres right of JfG