Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

Pull into corner then climb the centre of the juggy right wall.

Start: Left again is another big undercut corner.

Steep, juggy climbing and some disconcerting rock.

Start: Start at right-hand end of cliff at obvious flake ramp sweeping up right.

Corner of "Jungle Drums" to overlap. Move 1 metre right, climb the overlap and finish up the face.

Start: Start as for "Jungle Drums".

Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks.

Follow leftward diagonal until it ends, then straight up.

Start: Start right of "Beer & Prawns" and just left of tree at 4 metres.

Up short wall just right of arete. Step back left to arete and up easily.

Start: Start about 10 metres right of "Hell Bent" at a grey arete.

The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner.

The first line R of the R descent gully angles slightly to the R.

1. 30m Go up the wall to the crack, and curves up L to the main line. Follow this to a ledge on the L before a flaky section.

2. 20m Continue up line on suspect rock and then more easily

Quality climbing.

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. There is a large chain fixed around chicken heads for belay/lower off

Climbs the wall to the right of the huge cave. Great rock and pro. To access, traverse carefully across the slabby rock at the right hand end of the cave (easy but exposed) to the base of the wall and double bolt belay. Climb straight up to the ledge (where the Misty Wall routes start) then straight up wall above to double bolt anchors.

Sit start, below the finish of 'Back, Sack & Crack' at a juggy horizontal rail. Up via the positive pockets.

Stand start at the jug around 3m left of 'Cookie Monster'. Up and right on good holds.

2m left of 'Half Baked'. Start at the flexing orange jug and head up.

Arete of arrow-shaped wall facing the boulder. Finish up ramp.

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

Up from block right of 'Silence And Speed'.

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

Start: Scramble up into the cave at base of bluff. Start from ramp at left end.

1. 20m (15) Climb the wall to gap at top left of cave. Pull on jugs to gain wall above. Continue to belay level with upper terrace.

2. 20m (-) Go up right and up the easy arete.

Climb the crack 1 metre left of the off-width and then the steep, juggy wall above.

No idea where the route goes or what the name is but we do know the grade and who climbed it.

The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the 'Slow Torture' gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish.

Follow the left-slanting dyke left of the corner all the way. Just below the roofline traverse 7-8 metres left to a small stance just below shattered terrace. Abseil from a shonky knob of rock (or tackle the horrific upper part of the cliff).

Start: Start at the base of the dirty corner.

A roof and grey wall left of 'Fragile Feelings'. ? starts at the arete 2 metres right of Woodstock leftovers.

1. 20m (15) Up the grey wall just left of the roof. Traverse right above the lip of the roof to belay below the smaller roof.

2. 30m (15) Up to the roof and heel-hook right. Jugs follow.

Start at crack 10 metres right of Roaring Forties.

1. 27m Up crack to roof, traverse right to pedestal, steeply up then up easily to ledge of Roaring Forties.

2. 28m Up.

"Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing. "Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing. Up to the superb finger crack then avoid it by stepping left and up the large chimney-crack.

Go straight up arete from the start of 'Grey Gold'.

Up corner formed by block leaning against the face. Up seam into corner and top.

Start: Start 10m left of arete and 20 metres left of 'Grey Matter'.

Ten metres right of The Unearned Boon just right of roof. Probably undergraded in keeping with Treby traditions.

1. 20m, (15) Up wall to overhang via thin right leaning crack. Left wall via bush to ledge.

   2) 10m, Headwall.

Starts 3m left of Ralph's Journey on right side of cleft separating right and left walls. Climb the right side of the cleft to the top.

Crack?

Cracks at left end of major south-facing black wall. Up left crack past overlap, step right to next major line and up.

Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above 'Iron Filings'.

Start: 20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack.

20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack. Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above Iron Filings.

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'

Great for the grade.

Head left up staircase to arete on wall right of chimney/chasm. Steep corner to small roof, then right to headwall.

Crack in the north face of the left-most buttress of the crag.

Start up small gully immediately in front of prominent tree.

Up crack to ledge. Finish up obvious groove in orange face (Captain Planet And The Planeteers.

Easy angled corner at left end of 'Lower Tier' 'Right Wall'.

Start at sasy corner 3-4 meters left of The Final Solution.

Up corner to step onto headwall from ledge. Up and left into short corner crack. Easy alternative finish by wandering up easy juggy corner from big ledge. Descent via Born to Fly Abseil.

On ugs this time...

Seam 3m Right of Solitude.

Climb straight up through vertical seams and horizontal breaks. Step slightly left before reaching final headwall. Finish as for Solitude.

Start: Start 15 metres right of "Solace" below a diagonal crack 30 metres up the cliff.

1. 30m (15) Up a mild depression and continue in a rut to the base of the crack.

2. 40m (15) Traverse up right for 10 metres then climb up flakes to eventually veer back left to the top of the diagonal crack.

3. 20m (15) Climb the overhang and left-leaning corner.

The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.

Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'.

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

Start directly below the right end of the red wall.

Climb just right of the pale water streak. Continue up arete left of black corner, moving right ot awkward finish above corner. Rap from tree as for "Stretchmate"

10m R of Aimless Blade (was mistaken that that route on the FA) Climbs the vague blocky flake that ends after 10m. Then reach L and climb the wall above to Abseil tree. A direct finish through the prow might be possible?

Start just up the slope from The Good Soldier.

Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

A few metres left of "Snap, 'Crackle', Pop", climb the right arete of a corner to a ledge. Move right and curse up a hard corner.

Up the gully, 15 metres left of "Diaghilev", a groove leads to a right-leading ramp. Up ramp to final corner.

The shallow corner and on past big blocks.

The recessed wall at the very left end of Sportz Wall. Climb flake crack left of black slab and finish up orange streaks.

Takes a wandering line up the grey wall opposite War Wall. Finish up short corner.

The slabby grey wall right of Head Over Heels Start at obvious tree, up to left end of huge cave, continue up line above.

A steep, clean wall with little protection. The main line on the west wall of the next buttress right of Drop Of The Watch, starting from the cave and exiting right of the small roof.

Wide corner and roof 5 metres right of "Saloon".

Disappointing

Start 8 metres right of Bitter Taste.

Climb the right-curving flake leading to a break in the roof. Above the roof, take the left-hand line.

Start: Start at the large tree.

1. 25m (15) Straight up and up a crack which leads up the right-hand side of the nose to a ledge.

2. 35m (15) The crack, through the overhang and up.

Up the thin grey face to a ledge., step left to crack and overhang, then easily up to top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the gully at the left side of the buttress.

Are you sure this is Goldirocks?

Start: The corner at the left-hand side of the upper cliff.

1. 35m (15) Up to the ledge below the overhang at 6 metres. Energetically over this and up the crack above.

2. 15m (-) Corner and chimney roof.

The prominent V-corner 30 metres left of the orange wall.

The wide crack right of "Firma Terra" has an impertinent move near the top.

At the left end of the Mur Y Niwl slab is a short wall; start in the middle of this.The second and third pitches may be the same as Mur Y Niwl.

1. 25m Bouldery up wall to break at the start of the slab. Pull onto slab and step left to arete. Up to large platform.

2. 35m Step right and work your way through overhangs until rope drag stops progress.

3. 15m Up steep wall on fragile holds then jump chasm.

An early attempt on the diagonal line ended with a large fall. Start 20 metres to the left of the diagonal line. Up to left edge of roof. Continue straight up to join the diagonal line.

50 metres left of The Third Man is a gnarly buttress with a large roof on its left side and on its front are two horizontal cracks running out to a knob on the right arete. Start on the left side of the buttress, 2 metres right of a blocky ramp. Sandbagging with a smile.

Up to seam, on up to the left end of the two traverse cracks. Traverse right to the knob then step back left and climb the very steep left-leaning crack.

20 metres left of He's From Nelson is a grey buttress with a shallow, left-leaning overlap line on its left edge.

Start at the base of the overlap. Go straight up and finish up the overhanging crack 1 metre left of the deep groove at the top.

There is a steep, thin crack near the middle of the wall, to the right of the orange section. Up the crack for 6m, step right and up to the overlap. Pull up, step left and through the next overlap.

Opposite Gollum Direct boulder, up slab corner.

Up, step left at break and up centre of arete.

Start: Start at crack 5.5 metres left of

Not memorable at all. Sit start on slopey rail and reach to the top.

Sit start on low left arete and up rising traverse to top out.