Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

Pleasant face on the left near the top of the gully. Step left off boulder and up.

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. The hangers work loose with frequent ascents so taking a shifting spanner in to tighten them after an ascent is worthwhile.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, right of Hysteria Lane.

Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained and followed.

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

Traverses the headwall to the R of OF. Excellent rock and climbing. Gear is adequate (take cams to size 3, incl micro cams).

1. 20m, Wander up slab, to belay just past R end of roof.

2. 20m, Up weakness to gain left leading horizontals which are ascended gradually to gain white streak which leads easily to final traverse L below summit roof. Go all the way, and Rap as for OF.

The line right of "The Wreckery" at the right-hand end of the face.

OK but some poor rock.

Start: Scramble 5 metres up the ramp above "Dracula's Blood" to belay.

1. 25m (17) Easily up ramp. Up onto wall and traverse left along line to above the belay. Up weakness to overhang, undercling around left and climb line to stance.

2. 20m (-) Rotten line above, then left and up.

Good face climbing up weakness at R end of face, which leads to the R arete before a steep conclusion.

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

Sustained and great.

1. 35m Climb the little corner just R of Wallscrawl, moving R on to the vague arete after the friable section. Up and R on to main wall, then up through smooth section and a little L into the line of weakness which leads to a SHB at central of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

2. 25m Continue steeply up the line to tilted horizontal line. Step L, then climb cracks above to a patch of grass, which is just below the second dyke. Head up and R to crack/slot, then straight up crossing horizontal that becomes overlap further R to a dramatic exit L via first weakness R of Whipping Boy etc.

A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).

1. 35m It's pretty hard to determine exactly where pitch 1 should go, but all options seem to be about the same difficulty. Aim towards the right most of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

2. 30m Up and slightly R, aiming for the distinctive eye (which provides the means for passing through the second dyke). Keep on the same up-and-right trajectory to pull through the overlap to weakness in head-wall.

1. 15m Up main L-leading dyke to belay as for 'Arrows of Desire'. 2) 40m Straight up to the R end of first little roof on 'Arrows of Desire'. Move R to easier ground, then head diagonally up L to finish on prow.

Start: Start as for "Chariot Of Fire".

1. 15m (-) As for "Chariot Of Fire".

2. 40m (17) Climb the wall tending left to the ledge. Move up to the base of the right diagonal ramp. Mantle this, then directly up the steep headwall.

1. 25m As for 'Ancient Times' to R-hand end of the ledge. Progress to block at top of slab. 2) 35m (crux) Up and R across wall on in-cuts to base of juggy crack in steep wall. Motor up (sling runners) to a rest on the lip. Cross 'Ancient Times' to finish directly up the steep, juggy head-wall.

The crack at the right-hand end of the left-hand buttress, to the right of the cave at 17 metres.

1. 20m (17) Climb the crack through teh overhang then easily up to belay.

2. 15m (-) Walk back to the chimney, climb this and the wall above.

Start: Start at the chimney just left of "Fox On The Run"

1. 26m (-) Climb the chimney to the roof and then the corner-crack above the roof to a large ledge on the left.

2. 18m (17) Up the beautiful yellow corner to the roof. Exit right and finish easily.

The crack on the arete left of "Foxfire" has a good start but then gets quite easy.

1. 26m (17) Step into the crack from the right (direct into crack is grade 18) and up to a ledge.

2. 18m (-) Finish up the line.

Beaut moves in an excellent position on good rock. Takes the sweeping arête / pillar in centre of wall, finishing at double rings. 3 BR's.

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain.

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'.

Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

Left-leaning ramp 15 metres right of "Day Of The Fox". Above the bulge, finish just right of the arete.

A little bon-bon above 'Stone Circus'. Scramble 45m above 'Stone Circus' to a distinctive crack on the corner of the buttress above. A steep jam crack leads to pretty corner, which quickly eases.

Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground.

Orange corner on opposite side of gully to 'Revenue Road'.

Up flake to corner, hand traverse left, then up prow.

Start: About 100 metres from the right-hand end of the cliff is an attractive grey wall with a wide corner high above a flake.

Lovely climbing. The left-hand line on the grey part of the cliff.

The line between "No Holds Barred" and "Take Your Pick", traversing in from "Take Your Pick".

Take crack 2 metres right of "No Holds Barred". Where the crack fades, step right and up steeply.

Squeezed in.

The obvious crack-line at the left (east) end of the canyon. 'Steep' to finish.

Up flake under roof on east side. Left under roof, up.

Clean arete on right of cave. Start up short, right-leading diagonal ramp.

Start as for Plain English then climb narrow wall on left.

Left-veering weakness right of Pigs in middle of wall. Juggy flake at mid-height,

Hard Start

Opposite cleft at foot of cliff in gully.

Start on the north side of the pinnacle at the left end. Up to the left crack and on to the top on rounded holds.

The right end of the north face. Up to the righthand crack and up it.

Up the south side of the pinnacle.

The crack above the start to the terrace access ramp.

Crack to bulge, move left, continue up to left end of upper terrace.

As it was soloed potential protection is unknown.

Start at the left side of the slab, 5 metres right of the chasm.

Up, then right to some cracks then up.

Tricky start to the easiest of the three lines.

The third line up from the bottom.

Start as for Looking For a route to the steepening then take the right-leaning crack to the top.

Major corner 10 metres right of descent gully. Previously named Fatmorgana. Maybe a typo somewhere.

Corner, at roof move right then up tiny arete then wall and crack.

Up wall just left of wideish line.

There are two obvious corner cracks leading from the ledge that is accessed from the gully, this is the left-hand one.

1. 20m (17). Start 5 metres from the left-hand end of the ledge. Tricky start (crux) to gain corner crack which is followed to exit left and belay on ledge.

2. 30m (17). Tricky move through roof above, up juggy face to short black corner then up to big grassy ledge. To descend scramble up and rightwards then step down to ledge and find fixed knotted rope in deep crack (2x60m ropes to ledge.)

Nice but a bit loose. Start 2 metres right of Prague Spring.

Face to small, left facing corner and up this to roof. Move around right to easier upper wall.

Left wall of cleft, just right of arete. Start at small, undercut arete then tend left towards arete. At 20m traverse right above small roof and the continue up arete.

50 metres right of 'Spanish Bombs' is smooth grey wall and maybe a large gum growing against the cliff. If the tree is still there, that's where you start. Up, tending right near the top before pulling through the roof.

Supposedly easier than it looks. If you beiieve that cal I interest you in a harbour bridge that I have available? Right-hand crack leading to roof.

1. 25m Up the obvious crack to roof. Follow roof-line up and right to arete.

2. 28m Up.

Climb the line right of 'Lioness' past a block and then traverse left into 'Lioness'.

Wideish diagonal crack 10 metres right of 'Biggles Pulls It Off'.

Up main crack/weakness in the middle of north-facing face.

Start: Start 20 metres left of Grey gold slab.

Start 5 metres right of the corner and go straight up the wall.

Not to be confused with the climb of the same name at Stapylton.

Start at the next west-facing wall up and right of Knights In White Satin from a block leaning against the face.

Up to prominent right-leading diagonal break. Follow this to some cracks through the overhang and take the right-hand crack to the top.

Start 11 metres before the chasm, behind 3 trees. The centre of the face.

Up the face until forced into corner. Step up then back right and up.

Start: Start 4 metres left of Dreseed Up to Kill at the hole in the wall on the right side of the recess.

Up the right side of the shield to horizontals near the top. Traveres left to the arete and up.

Start: Start 18 metres right of the left end of the cliff. There is a shield formation forming a flake-line on each of its sides.

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.

Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

1. 10m (17) Up sandy cleft with no runnners.

2. 25m (17) Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.

Stretch Your calves before you start.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm.

Bridge up using crack for protection and traverse right at the top of the big chockstone.

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face.

Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge.

Up crack down on the R side of the slab (as for BFC, An Undeniable Truth), Step L to thin crack, then straight up the slab via 4 FH and some trad gear (small-med cams). Go through final roof 1m Left of chossy overhang - via a cool hidden pocket. Still quite runout despite the bolts, although much of the climbing is easier than TCBFC. Rap point is 36m exactly to the ground.

The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave.

Clamber onto and around the "sausage" to gain crack in centre of wall. climb the wall to horizontal break then step left to cave. Finish up steep crack.

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

Start a few metres left of Copybook, just left of the centre of the wall.

Climb the wall until just below the left edge of the big roof. The arete on the left to an exciting finish.

Two great corners with exposed traverse.

A fun well protected climb under two small orange roofs.

Bridge or stem up grey corner to orange corner then across right under small orange roof with seam down the centre. Once up and under larger orange roof, lay out left placing gear and find your way up using two finger slot. Finish at rap station.

Thin holds starts you off.

Arête at left-hand end of 'Talon' Wall

Thin start on arête leads to faint crack to ledge just right of 'Talon' first pitch.

Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

The first obvious line on the compact wall left of The Snack bar. Climb small orange corner moving left at bulge. Continue up shallow grey corner.

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

Wall right of "Slap & Tickle". Steeply up and right, then up on good holds.

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face.

A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.

There is a weakness at the right end of the arch leading to a hanging corner. A few metres up left from the lowest point of the wall, a narrow ramp cuts steeply up right.

It would probably be safer to combine the first two pitches.

1. 27m (17) Climb the ramp until about 3 metres below an overlap. Exposed traverse right for 7 metres then launch up and right to a hanging belay (many cams and strong nerves for belay) under the arch below the hanging belay

2. 10m (-) Pull around arch into a hanging corner. Move up to an overlap and make a wide step left to the arete. Continue up to a stance.

3. 28m (-) A curving flake crack leads diagonally right and up. Continue steeply to a big ledge.

4. 35m (-) Roped scrambling up the final buttress avoids the surrounding heinous scrub.

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from Slaughterhouse 5.

Climb a ramp from the left to gain the right-hand crack. Follow the crack to a gully then step back left and heave up the headwall.

Technical laybacking.

Start 5 metres right of Player Piano and climb up into the bottomless niche. Up left to a rest and then up right into a strange flared groove that leads to fearsome jugs.

A great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt. Start at the undercut flake 2.5 metres right of Snap, Crackle And Pop. Up flake and vertical flake above. Traverse diagonally left to ramp. up left of blank face to horizontal break and traverse off left. A better finish from the ramp (grade 16) is to head up and left to the headwall and up the twin cracks. (Alt finish Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer 13-03-1993)

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

Start at the base of Savage God, on the right wall.

The crack through the vertical black stain to the arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

Crack system 4 metres left of "Small" to an easy slab.

Start up Hippy Chick and continue directly up face above.