Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver.

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

Straightens out "Varicose Vines"

Sustained jamming up a beautiful diagonal crack on smooth rock.

Instead of traversing left and joining up with 'Storm' In A D-Cup at 15m keep climbing the face directly above, eventually heading slightly right up short diagonal flake to top. Makes the route a lot more sustained.

Pull onto wall at right-hand end of overhanging section and go up, veering left.

Start: Just along from and at right-angles to the right-hand end of the cave terrace is a small wall with an overhanging left side.

Up middle seam right of "Some Like It Hot". Follow grassy, right-leading crack, then up.

1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

Rather contrived. An enjoyable enough route, but not in the same league as 'Romancing Times'. 1) 35m (crux) As for 'Romancing Times' but head up just L of the brown rock past an obvious under-cling at 25m. 2) 35m Up R, taking both overhangs pretty much direct.

Despite the crux being very run-out, James is reported to have declared this 'the best new route we have ever done'.

Start: Start as for 'Bowled Out'.

Excellent quality but much too short.

Apparently radgel may be Cornish for fox. Later accidentally retro-bolted as Warm Salty Bottom Washer; fortunately both the bolts and name have been consigned to the dustbin.

1. 20m (18) Start up 'Kava Boy' but where it ducks out right, head straight up the arete via a tricky move. Follow arete for a few more metres, then climb straight up face until you get to a ledge just right of the arete.

2. 30m (17) From ledge head up face above, trending rightwards, until you hit the diagonal crack heading out of 'Kava Boy' (Propaganda), follow this up to corner. In corner, place high cam then step right and blast up on jugs in an exposed position, then up crack, past little slab, moving right up final slabby headwall.

Takes second corner crack to the right of 'Kava Boy'. As for 'Far Horizons' to belay ledge, continue for a few meters up short clean corner, step left to base of crack. Up corner crack to belay on terrace. Rope scramble off right.

Up and over flake to first roof/overlap. Over this on good holds to stance, up wall and through R-hand weakness in second roof/overlap, up to belay on terrace or continue up short but tricky headwall with lots of slopers.

Start: Scramble up to blocky terrace at R end of Cold War wall. Takes line around 15-20m right of 'Synthetic Venetian' through series of overlaps at far R end of terrace.

Sustained, delicate and consistently absorbing, but not in the same league as 'Bliss'. A few loose and sandy sections will hopefully tidy up after some traffic.

Enjoyable face with good gear.

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

Starts 7m right of One Ring To Bind Them. Right leading ramp leads to bulge, then left past protruding knob and up. Watch for the perched block of doom. Leader slung knob for aid.

Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent.

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to carrot bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. An unheralded classic in the climb-a-line-to-the-top-of-the-cliff-adventure vein. To descend, first follow your nose up the fragile chicken heads to the top, walk back from the edge, and follow an easy gully to the right. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner to start.

1. 25m (12) Mossy face into awesome orange cave, followed by a mossy chimney to belay on a mossy chockstone. Strangely enjoyable.

2. 35m (18) The original description: delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. The reality: awesome unlikely climbing to gain the corner proper, wish you had a dust mask past the poo cave, then brilliant orange rock to the top without a bridge in sight. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

Trad? WTF? Medium cams and wires and a couple of slings. Start below large flaky scoops. Up past 3 FH, trending left to stay on the good rock, then up black groove on trad to anchors.

Start up the same juggy groove, but after the second bolt bust out rightwards past a third to the anchors above the ledge.

A wee bit of jamming. A slabby start leads to the diagonal line. At the final overhangs, step R to the finishing crack.

Up to a horn-like jug and a good slot 3 metres right of Jeff. Up again, then step right into crack until it finishes. Left and up pleasant wall to eventually join Manufacturing Consent near the top.

3 metres right of The Dude is a short overhanging flake-crack. Up flake-crack then right to ledge. Up easy walls and overlaps.

From ledge 2 metres right of Killdozer Diagonal go left on orange flake then up to right-leading diagonal crack. Up and left to finish on juggy wall.

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best (and that's going to happen?).

About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

Start on a low ledge at the base of the yellow face/slab. Wander a little taking the easiest line to a big ledge, rap off.

Good fun climbing - well protected At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack. Straight up the crack (20m). Belay on ledge (as FA) or continue up steep crack and left along juggy traverse to rap station on ledge. *Rap is only about 20m so 1 rope is fine. Take standard trad gear up to #3 cam.

The only climb positively identified and looks OK. Interesting traverse. Start at the right-hand end of the upper terrace.

Climb layback on block then wall to FH. Traverse left. It looks like you go up at some point after that.

Take the charcoal-black corner line in the middle of the wall. At horizontal break, move right up flake to finish.

The groove right of "Stout" then continue all the way.

A tricky start at flake 3 metres left of first large diagonal in Green Gully to stance. Up flake to join diagonal. At 3/4 height an airy move gains the crack-line above.

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

Climb the overhanging descent gully wall and traverse left at the obvious break. Finish as for Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering.

Overhang then crack and wall on east end of "Wall Of Deceit", finishing right under the overhang.

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name. Rounded arête with short crack at start. Bulgy and committing finish with last trad below your feet.

Start up the corner for 6 metres then step left into crack-line and follow this.

There are two obvious corner cracks leading from the ledge, this is the right-hand one.

1. 20m (15). Up corner then step left onto juggy face, up to rooflet step right onto airy plate and continue up to ledge belay.

2. 30m (18). Trend left up juggy face towards the flake in the roof above. At roof beware loose blocks instead climb through roof a metre right from obvious flake then blast up juggy wall to ledge. Scramble right to ledge with knotted rope in deep crack (2x60m rope rap to ledge).

The stepped corner that trends slightly left will appeal to all tradsters. Don't let the moss put you off.

A good climb up the best line on the cliff. It's an attractive corner that doesn't quite reach the ground and leads to a roof.

1. 30m (18) Up the steep wall below and left of the line until able to step right into base of the corner. Up the corner until just below the roof. Traverse left to the arete. Up through the left end of the roof, traverse 3 metres left to avoid dirty rock then up a little to a ledge.

2. 8m (-) Easily up right.

Start 5 metres right of On The Amazon. The shallow, loose-looking corner. Left under overhang and up to ledge. Left and up on easier broken ground.

Travels through some pretty unfriendly country.

Start: Start at obvious corner system 12 metres left of Ghost Ships

1. 25m (18) Up the large corner to the roof. Step right and up to next roof then step right again and up to next roof. Step right to cramped stance.

2. 15m (18) Up right past the next roof and then traverse back left for 7 metres to good stance.

3. 30m (-) Up easily

Traverse left through the rooves from the belay at the end of the first pitch of Ghost Ships.

"Superb climbing on brilliant rock", Campbell Mercer.Start 4 metres left of right arete. Up crack, step right and up.

Steep, well-protected, delightful climbing up wall.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the left-hand end of the wall.

The siuous corner just left of the chasm separating thePassport pinnacle from the main massif.

1. 10m (16) Awkward short corner to large ledge.

2. 30m (18) Follow the corner.

3. 30m (14) Continue up the line until it doglegs right and peters out. Traverse left at this point until able to move up (runout) to the next line that leads to overhangs. Belay where possible.

4. 40m (17) Continue up the line and through the overhangs.

Up corner and crack line through overhang to top.

Start: Corner in centre of face on first buttress.

Up cracks 1 metre left of righthand arete to a ledge. Directly through the overhang in the arete and directly up the face to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'If We Were Giants'.

Promises, promises. Starts below the central overhangs and orange rock. Up behind the dead tree (?still exists) then through the centre of the roof. Continue tranding rightwards up the centre of the face above.

Up the bulging column of rock and through the steepening, tending right then back slightly left. Finish on the right side of the upper wall.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'More Exciting Than Sex' on the right side of the overhangs.

Terrible name. Starts 7 metres right of More Exciting Than Sex. Straight up through the narrowest section of the overhang to follow the dished area of rock up and right for 2 metres, then straight up.

From scrubby ledge, up right-facing corner on the right side of the buttress. Traverse 3 metres left and climb the groove in the upper face to the top.

Starts up the cracks on the right side of 'Diamonds In The Forest' wall to a ledge, step back left and up steep wall above, next to the arete.

Below a vague line higher up, 3 metres right of the left end of this section of cliff, before the scrub comes in again. Go straight up.

Starts 8m L of 'The Crib'. Up horizontal bulges to seam. Up this to top.

Climbs the left leaning dog-legged crack that goes up the middle of the orange wall (left of the major orange wall). Scramble up the easy slab to the belay ledge just below the major crack. Climb the corner/crack to the horizontal break. Traverse left one metre and then climb the crack above to a tricky mantle onto a dirty ledge. Climb the deep crack/chimney above to the top.

Major line on right of wall.

Overlap start and up line through 2 bulges. Up cleft and chimney.

Great climbing up a proud line with good rock.

Start: The commanding corner capped with a small roof 5m from the top near the middle of the cliff. There is a large gum tree sticking pretty much straight out from the cliff at this point.

Start just left of the corner at flake, then move right into corner to ledge at 6m. Up, dancing between the left hand face and corner. Fantastic, consistant climbing on good holds with surprisingly good rock quality and clean rock. Some sections are a little (4-5m) spaced. Take a very full rack up to number 4 BD camalot (with many mid and small cams) and some hexes for good measure. Move left under roof 5m from top to belay on ledge. 50m Rap off (two glue in U-bolts with mallions and large rings)at good ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue up corner, tricky section at around 10m above ledge (around grade 15) to top. Walk off West down gully (lots of nice looking un-touched orange walls in gully).

Up weakness and crack; step left through smooth section, back right to line and up. Scramble off and descend carefully to the left.

Start: 10m left of 'Against The Tide'.

A really tasty excursion up a wall of buckets n’ bums. Climb the second weakness 4m left of The Bottom Inspectors. Follow the steep flakes up and right-wards to an exiting traverse, with a final big ‘heave-ho’ to pull over the top. A couple of manky slings on a bollard at the upper/east end of the pinnacle which need replacing or adding to by who ever is there next.

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall. Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish.

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start on the left of the grey arete.

Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.

Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch. Start at halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder Dust. Follow the 4FHs up the arête, moving to the right-hand side at the 3rd FH. (25m rap) (DRB anchor as of March 2024 - ignore fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.

Harder than it looks.

Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.

Follow the crack to the large ledge at half height. From here you can access the next 4 climbs.

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

Classic climbing up the middle of the black slab. It gets an R rating due to a few exciting runouts, although gear shows up when it's needed - except for the final moves from which you do not want to fall off.

Start: Start on right side of bivvy cave wall, a few metres left of the first chimney/chasm.

Start: Start on left end of ledge off rocking block.

A lovely climb.

The elegant sloping corner just left of Sweet Thursday.

Crack in undercut buttress about 20 metres right of Captain Planet And The Planeteers, 1.5 metres right of rubbly chimney.

Power through undercut start and up crack to horizontal. Up line slightly to right, finishing up arete left of top ledge.

Arete climbing with large pockets. 2 x fixed hangers.

T1 start, arête with tree at base.

Pull onto wall and place gear up right leaning ramp until large flat top holds. Reach out to clip FH and move up through pockets to then mantle onto large ledge. Climb right side of arête to finish

Next face/buttress right. Line through bulges on left side of buttress

Start: Easily up to first ledge, up over bulge, up to second ledge, over small headwall to easy corner. Take care at top with loose rock. Finish at rap station above 'Raptor'.

Nice climbing to sustained crux.

Start: 1m left of Top Hat. Easy start to middle section sustained moves though break on horizontals to ledge then upper wall in a short corner to under roof.

Varied face climbing with tricky crux. Can be done as independent line by climbing up via seam 2m L of GRB.

Start: As for Get Ready Bold, then left on flakes that traverse 2m to a stance. Hard move though middle wall (crux). Continue up and slightly L to finish in right facing corner just before upper ledge under large roof. Traverse R to anchor.

Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.

Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.

Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'.

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

The left-hand crack system

Diagonal crack with strange blocks poking out of it just left of "Chimney Thief". Finish up the arete.

Great sustained jamming.

The major diagonal crack at the left end of the cave.

Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.