Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eureka Area Spanish Galleon | |||||
20 | ★ No Feet, No Head, No Hands
Black slab on left of main face. Bridge up to slab, fun climbing staying just left of and on arete Set: Steve Holloway FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams, steven wilson & Wally Funk, 9 Jul 2016 | 12m, 6 | |||
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Maxwell's Demon
A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns
Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Pythagoras' Theorem P1
| 10m | |||
Eureka Area Eureka Towers | |||||
20 | ★★ Journey To Gary's World
5 metres R of 'Return to Gariwerd'. Start off small rock, tricky start on thin seams and opposing side pulls, easing upwards to great rounded holds. Belay off chicken heads. FA: James Wynne, 10 Jun 2016 | 15m | |||
20 R | Jardwadjaliland
Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks. FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991 | 35m | |||
Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls | |||||
20 | ★ New Normal
Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts. FA: Kent Paterson | 15m, 10 | |||
Eureka Area Weirs Creek West Side | |||||
20 | ★ Lapsed Pacifist
East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
Eureka Area Weirs Creek | |||||
20 | Dumber Bay
A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system. Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2011 | 8m, 3 | |||
Eureka Area Closed Yanganaginj Njawi | |||||
20 | Slippery When Wet
Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1978 | 45m | |||
20 | ★★ Footless Emu
The best line on the cliff On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof. FA: Rod Young & Peter Cunningham, 1978 | 30m | |||
Eureka Area Gondwanaland | |||||
20 | ★ Wild Iris RHV
At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR. FA: Neil Monteith, 2002 | 15m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Baddie Traddie
This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts! FA: Neil Montetih, 2004 | 25m | |||
Mt Fox Area Jungle Gym | |||||
20 | Just Left Of The Stump
Remote. Might even be in The Labryinth. Start: Start about 30-40 metres right of "Juggernaut", slightly up a broad gully and a few metres right of a tight, short chimney. FA: Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith & Peter Cunningham, 1994 | 20m | |||
Mt Fox Area Doritos Wall | |||||
20 | Quick Draw McGraw
This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top. FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust (alt), 1993 | 53m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mt Fox Track | |||||
20 | Use Of Force
The central crack a few metres left of 'Trigger Control', then the corner to finish. Take a #4 cam. FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust & Wayne Maher, 1993 | 25m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mt Fox | |||||
20 | Hot, Salty, Sticky, Yum
Roof on scooped boulder at left end of cliff FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991 | 5m, 1 | |||
20 M0 | Foxy Lady
Blast up arete left of "Reynard's Last Run". Apparently a different arete than that of "The Radgel". FA: Darren Maskell & Steve Holloway, 1997 | 26m | |||
20 R | Foxtel
Excellent, but serious FA: Tim Day & Wade Stevens, 2006 | 50m | |||
20 | ★★★ Twentieth Century Fox
Simply awesome. Sustained, technical and amazing climbing the whole way. Start: As you walk up to the cliff you chimney just past the start (on a sloping ledge to your left) before you get to a ledge and big flat rock up on your right (great place for photos). FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone & David Gairns, 1978 | 50m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering 20th Century Blocks | |||||
V1 | Wilderness
| 5m | |||
V1 | King Kong
| ||||
V1 | ★ Tabloid Jugs
Highball left of Fast Forward. Watch out for the tree. | 7m | |||
V1 | Shoulder Shrugs
| 4m | |||
V2 | Ankle Socks
| 3m | |||
V1 | Pyramids of Giza
| ||||
V1 | Bride of Frankenstein
| ||||
V2 | Modern Times
| ||||
V2 | Waynes World
| ||||
V1 | Damsel in Distress
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V1 | The Big Sleep
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V1 | Duck Soup
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V2 | Spotlights
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V1 | World Premier
| ||||
V2 | Studio Arete
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V2 | Flashdance
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V1 | Tom Cruise
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V2 | Nicholas Cage
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V1 | ★★ Glory
| 5m | |||
V2 | Pocket Full of Sunshine
| ||||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Cruising Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Crusing
Sit start to the right of Stormy Weather. Straight up on jugs to tricky mantle. FA: Dick Lodge, 8 Oct 2014 | ||||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Therapy Boulder | |||||
V1 | Lessons in mantling
50m before Therapy boulder right of the track, sit start then mantle onto slab. FA: Dick Lodge, 8 Oct 2014 | ||||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Angry Ant Bloc | |||||
V1 | Adam Antium
| ||||
V2 | Up Up and Away
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Dave and Sophie's Wall | |||||
V1 | Romantic Comedy
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Philosopher's Stone | |||||
V1 | Half Blood Prince
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Grandpa Boulder | |||||
V1 | Super Soda Pop
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Stegosaurus Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ Stegasaurus Slab
Climb the stegasaurus dishes | 5m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Writers Block | |||||
V1 | ★★ Rough Draft
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V2 | ★★ A Novel Approach
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Mental Block | |||||
V1 | Divine Inspiration
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V2 | Frontal Labotomy
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Mt Fox Area The Far Pavilion Far Pavilion Left Side | |||||
20 | Beer, Brie and Waku Beef Sausages Maketh the Man
Easy slab leads to fun steep climbing leads to sustained crack. FA: Josef Goding, Lawrie Cowley, Paul Taulien, Peter Mills & Ro Packer., 2005 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ Bliss Left Wall Variant
Classy face climbing. FA: Mark Rewi, Nicholas Kiraly & Matthew Shepley, 2005 | 30m | |||
Red Rock Area Band Of Gypsies | |||||
20 | ★★ Mad Cow
Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox" FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 22m, 3 | |||
20 | Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)
Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings. FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2006 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Steve Holloway Route
FA: Steve Holloway, 2005 | 15m | |||
20 | ★ Slow Burn
FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher | 20m | |||
20 | Steal My Fingers
Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain. Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing". FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Over Committed
Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves. FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005 | 20m, 2 | |||
20 | Dutch Courage
Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger". FA: Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter, 2005 | 18m | |||
20 | Transylvanian Trad
Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 20m | |||
20 | Johnny Depp
Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack. Start: Start on the left between some pines. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 23m | |||
20 | Steptoe And Scum
Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall. Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 18m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle | |||||
20 | ★★ Human Centipede
Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle. FA: Neil Monteith & Vanessa Wills | 12m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Kentucky Block | |||||
20 | ★ Kentucky Fried Clippin'
Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs to double ring belay. FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2005 | 8m, 3 | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles North Pinnacle | |||||
20 R | So, You Think You Can Dance?
Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006 | 15m, 2 | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle | |||||
20 | ★ Dang
An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge at DBB. FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2004 | 9m | |||
19/20 | ★★ Conflicting Vengeance (Linkup)
Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt. FA: Neil Monteith, 2005 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ Conflict of Interest
Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets! FA: Neil Monteith | 25m, 7 | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Back Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Bikini Bootcamp
A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007 | 10m, 4 | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench | |||||
20 | ★★ Raver Girl
A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent. FA: Hannah Lockie Neil Monteith, 2005 | 15m | |||
Red Rock Area Featherswords | |||||
20 | ★ Johnny Depp
Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack. Start: Start on the left between some pines. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 23m | |||
Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
20 | ★★ Pixie
Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette). FA: 2004 | 10m, 4 | |||
V1 | ★★ Black Jack
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V1 | Sumba
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V2 | ★★ Honey Smacks
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V1 | ★★ Mr Grace
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V2 | ★★ Cadence
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V1 | ★ Grabbing at Stars
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V2 | ★★ Time Lord (s)
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V1 | Neighbours in Space (s)
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V1 | Another Planet (s)
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V2 | ★ 400-Light years (s)
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V2 | ★ Night Sky (s0
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V2 | ★ G-Force (s)
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V2 | Korendor
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V2 | ★ Wound socket (s)
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V1 | Heavens Above
| 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Shopping Trolley
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V2 | Isle Number 6 (s)
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V2 | Check out chick (s)
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V1 | Price Check (s)
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V1 | Police Station (s)
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V2 | ★ Caterpualt (s)
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Red Rock Area The Solarium | |||||
20 | ★★ The devil on my shoulder
Start to the left of the black water streak and climb straight up past 4 FH to anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, 2015 | 4 | |||
20 | ★★ The atheist who found god
Up deceptively overhung wall, starting just right of the black water streak. Easy but committing to the first bolt, so best to stick clip. FA: Alex Trnovsky & James Stephens, 2014 | 5 | |||
Red Rock Area The Solarium Ballbag Amphitheatre | |||||
20 | ★ Guys lesbo lickfest fantasy line
Tough start (especially for shorties) leads to sustained climbing past 3 bolts to ledge and shared anchors. FA: Guy Abell & Alex Trnovsky, 2015 | 3 | |||
Red Rock Area Sherpa Rocks | |||||
20 R | The Corner
Orange Arapilesian corner about 5m R of 'Invalid Stout'. Ledge at 8m then overhung jug hauling up small roof crack. Has not been led yet - needs bolt. FA: FTRA Neil Monteith, 2004 | 12m | |||
20 | Invalid Stout
Subtle arête on R side of entrance to first gully. Easy crack for 5m to high BR. Step R and layback tenuous crack to break (crux). Through difficult bulge and up. U bolt lower off. FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003 | 15m, 1 |