Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face.

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

Sustained thin wall climbing up a slightly overhung face. Same start as Picking Plums but head right along juggy break past RB then follow further five RB¹s up crimpy wall to DRB anchor. Fourth RB is hard to clip.

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

2 bolts and trad.

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

Adds a harder, more engaging finish to Pacaraima. Where the original climbs heads back leftward, head up right instead (past 2 more bolt runners). Rap chains where the angle and the climbing ease significantly.

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

Follows bouldery rib to juggy finish.

Starts on far right of cave and finishes as for NLF. Nice pumper!

Great line through the middle of the cliff, following a long thin black streak. Bring a couple of long draws to help with potential rope drag.

Right most route, left of where the cliff breaks down. Start up easy ramp and directly into very continuous, thin techy face climbing. After the 5th bolt head left and then up to a small overlap and steep head wall climbing between the twin cracks, which finally relents to a little slab and then steep flake.

Start: The arête 2m right of 'Blood Sport' requires creativity and determination.

Sit Start on left arete of boulder. Head out arete and up tall face. Little airy topping out.

The very steep ribline in the middle of the cave, 2m right of Simply Red start, finishing slightly higher than that route at a higher RH and lower LH set of holds. Highest problem in here.

Climb the prominent arete on the left side of the descent gully 30m right of 'Lolly Gobble'. 8 FH's to double ring lower off.

Start: About 30m right of 'Lolly Gobble'

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a FH 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward past 2no of FH. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. Possible to head point / top rope from dang's anchor. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete (2 RB's). Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Now straight up arete, it gets easier to the top. Lower off anchor in small cave.

Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the spectacular orange face. Rope drag is an issue: a long draw (60cm) on the first and third bolts are recommended. Beware when lowering the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground.

Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall.

The full "ledge" traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Trickier than it looks but interesting climbing on great rock. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch. Or finish up PNtT

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and belay on ledge.

2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

Sit start for eye candy.

The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb. Lassoo spike at 7m and free climb from there!

1. 20m (23) Strenuously up the left-leading diagonal.

2. 20m (25) Boulder off the belay and grunt up the overhanging layback corner. At left (?) got tenuously left onto wall and to top.

10m left of 'Tree Hugger' is another steep orange wall. On the left edge is a steep seam crack with 2 x FH. Up.

Starts left of Talon. Mini route on simply great stone.

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

Unfortunate (and unforunately aptly) named. Good moves from sit start flake up left through edges to top out.

Starts 4 metres left of Oh Hum at overhung black off-width. Layback up wide crack which quickly turns into hand-crack. Five metres from the ground step left from crack onto gorgeous orange bulgy wall. Long moves on jugs lead to FH. Over bulge to second FH. Tenuous layaway moves up orange wall above (optional hard-to-place wire) lead to easier ground. Head slightly left up wall above to finish at DRB lower-off. Take a single set of trad gear to fist-crack size.

One move wonder and a soft touch.

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to Breathing Gasoline. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start as for Breathing Gasoline.

Up Breathing Gasoline for 5 bolts then traverse R to the anchors of Tunnel to Caracas. To ensure all possible permutations and combinations are covered, no doubt the 'megaclassic' extension into Tunnel Vision will follow soon.

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

Brilliant line of edges. Hidden away under a boulder leaning against the wall about 300m east of possume rocks cave.

Top up through the choss or drop from the jug for a more pleasant outing.

Crack then orange bulging face. 2 FHs and lower- off.

Shares start with Ogre Power. Technical climbing up and right towards rest and final headwall with overhanging crack. DRB lower-off. Soft as Kittens.

Sit start.

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!

Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.

1. 30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.

2. 30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.

Start 5m R of 'Elle McFerret' at termite nest. Bouldery start past fixed wire to crack. Crack to finish. Note: Start can be aided to give sustained crack climbing at about 24.

Since Michael O’Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start 4m left of Incarceration at the yellow streak. Climb the easy flake and clip the bolt. Rock up with difficulty, using the small gaston, and climb up to the fingerlocks and technical layback. Go into the nice jams and up to the jugs. Finish easily up the wide trench to the DBB.

Start: 4m left of 'Rust Never Sleeps'. Climb the flake, step right and then motor up the grey streak leftwards through the bulges.

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

Sustained face climbing on a variety of interesting holds. The route's status as the area's classic - and a bit of a soft tick - may change some time in the future should some of the crucial holds get ripped off it!

Follow the line of bolts 5m right of 'Careful With That Axe, Liam', taking a jink to the right near the top. Just one clip-and-go in the anchor - take care.

Excellent Nowra style power endurance climbing.

Up left side of scoops. 5 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 15m R of 'Tarzan' Swing.

The only way through the amazing bulging orange wall from the ground. Start well up on the R above Chimney Sweep. Up wall, then pull across blankness on the first 2 FH's to gain the holds (at 3rd FH). Up line to join Grease Nipples for 10m before an exciting traverse L and up the headwall. Take wires and some small-med cams. Quite a full value excursion, despite the aid.

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, Bouldery start then traverse right and up to lower off

Sustained wall climbing. Start up the crack, but follow line of RB's to the top. At the 4th Ring, there are two distinct directions to take for the crux, although the RH variation has more moves, it is probably a little easier.

Fondling rock never felt so good.

Climb the fairly steep, right-trending crack. The abseil chain is reached by a traverse left from the belay.

Classic, central line. Louise recalls it as being quite bold.

1. 25m (25) Up from above the horizontal gum past a fixed wire, moving right where the crack steepens at 20 metres and mantle onoto belay stance.

2. 25m (20) up to rappel station.

Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground.

Dangerous right-hand route. Boulder to high first bolt and up line above (BR). Bolts placed by another party prior to FA. Only 1 bolt used on FA.

Technical moves starting 1 metre right of Licorice All Sports. Can also use a small cam at the start.