Routes in Orroral area for selected grade

Start in the corner to the right of 'Five Cracks Wall'. Up the chimney to a ledge. Continue to a chockstone then swing left.

The chimney right of 'Tears of Rage'.

The crack on the left wall of the large corner 10 metres right of 'Mordor'. Climb up the corner on the right, then back left into the crack and up. The direct start up the crack makes it even better, but a fair bit harder. Gear to blue camalot.

The poxy crack and chimney two metres left of Nirvana.

Start 10 metres right of Overhang Corner. Climb the crack to a good ledge. Move left and up the crack for four metres, through the bushes to a large block and up to a tree to finish.

A pleasant pitch of jamming spoiled by too many ledges. The left-facing corner crack with a bush at its base, eight metres left of Aitchison's Needle. Climb up this to a large ledge and continue up to the roof. Diagonally left to join Possum and move right and up to the huge ledge. Finish up Possum or Carezzissima.

The wide crack three metres left of Functor; it overhangs 20 metres up giving an exposed finish.

1. 16m - Climb the crack, move to the right of the large flake and belay in an alcove. An unnecessary bolt replaces the original piton below the flake.

2. 14m - Up the back of the alcove and delicately to the top of the blocks. Left then over a block and up the corner to Hortensia.

3. 20m - The second pitch of Hortensia - up the slab and then desperately up the chimney past a flake.

Up the flared chimney and crack above, step right at the horizontal break and continue to the top.

The climb's bad but the name (Realised Ultimate Reality South Pacific Beach Bum Walrus) is worse. Up the crack to an awkward mantle, and continue up the off-width.

The chimney at the left edge of the Hurricane Cracks wall. Climb the chimney to a roof at 12 metres. Exit on the left and finish up the crack in the wall above.

Worthless. Start as for 'Cyclone Chimney'. Climb the right edge of the chimney via some incipient cracks, kicking off the odd loose block as you go.

The obvious steep, jagged crack, which often seeps green liquid. First pitch is now endowed with a thicket of teatree partway up, which will likely detract from the whole experience.

1. 22 metres - Up the crack, with a difficult move to surmount the roof. Continue up the wide crack above. Scramble up to beneath a wall split by two left trending cracks.

2. 13 metres - Move onto the ledge and then up the cracks.

The direct finish!

The prominent crack line on the wall left of the first pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up the wide flake crack then a ramp to a diagonal line which takes you to a ledge on 'Hurricane Cracks'.

Uninspiring and dirty in appearance, but the climbing isn't too bad. Start 12 metres to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks'.

1. 30 metres - Up the crack and slab. Continue up the off-width corner, moving right at half height and belay beneath the overhang.

2. 22 metres - Climb a corner and the narrow exposed chimney.

A classic. The intimidating roof section is easier than it look. Start at the left-hand side of the pillar four metres left of 'Little Hermes'. A large cam is required to safely protect both pitches (#5 is ideal, but a #4 will suffice if you're happy to wriggle in to place it).

1. 24 metres - Climb the chimney and corner crack to the top, step right and climb a short wall to a good ledge. Climb the slab, using a thin crack, to a tree belay (originally done in two pitches).

2. 26 metres - Up the magnificent corner crack (#5 protects potential ledge fall) and out right under the overhang. Belay on the ledge above or eight metres right.

This is generally the way Fearon is climbed. Climb the first pitch of Hermes to the start of Fearon.

Instead of climbing the chimney, exit by a crack on the right.

Takes the open-book ramp left of the 'Hermes' roof, originally climbed with a peg for aid. Start beneath the second pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 30 metres - Climb the blocky wall behind the tree, then a groove and short wall on the left to a stance. Up the steepening ramp and exit awkwardly to a small niche on the left. A short groove on the right then step left to belay at the entrance to a deep fissure.

2. 35 metres - Chimney easily to the top of the huge block then step back onto the main face. Climb cracks and grooves up more broken rock to finish up a short rib on the right.

Originally misnamed 'Prow Direct'. Start at the base of the 'Fiasco' groove. Move up and left onto the steep slab, then follow the cleaned line diagonally left to the huge ledge below 'The Prow'.

An ascending traverse between 'Denethor' and 'Vent Crack' with some good climbing, but the second pitch is poorly protected and quite serious at the grade. Start at the left-hand end of 'The Terrace', below a crack 50 metres left of 'Vent Crack'.

1. 10 metres - Up the crack to a small belay stance.

2. 35 metres - Traverse right for 15 metres to a small scoop, then climb the wall on the right to a good ledge. Traverse easily right along the ledge to a crack.

3. 45 metres - Up the crack, then on up the slab above, tending left at the end.

Has an entertaining and unusual move in each pitch.

Start at the 2nd belay of Equilibrium.

1. 18m - Step left 4m and climb the corner in the overlap (as for Tachyon). Spot the thin flake on the next overlap, at about 1 o'clock. Easily up the slab to belay near the flake.

2. 14m - Climb the very thin slightly overhanging flake (strenuous) to the higher slab. Move right along the top edge of the flake for about 5m then up the third overlap to belay. Watch out for loose rock above the last overlap. Pitches can be combined but rope drag can be a problem.

Update (2019): the top of the flake on P2 is cracked and likely will come off with a big tug.

Pleasant, clean slab climbing on the upper pitches. Start 3m left of Tachyon below a prominent flake.

1. 15m - Crux. Climb the large flake then up the slab past a bolt, then leftwards to the vegetated ramp. Belay behind a large flake.

2. 15m - Climb the wall and slab above. Move right to belay on a ledge (shared with Sunstroke).

3. 35m - Climb shallow corners immediately left of the twin Sunstroke cracks to the arete. Follow the arete to belay on the ledge as for Sunstroke.

Slices and minces better than the conventional model! Start 40 metres left of 'Friendly Frodo', on the same boulder. Climb the twin cracks, swinging into the right one to exit.

Start as for Deep Space. Initially up the pinnacle and at 5m take the right-hand crack straight up. After the horizontal break go straight up the slab past a couple of carrot bolts. Another carrot then rejoin Deep Space at the steep headwall before the ledge.

Add the final pitch of Sickle to take you to the top.

A good second pitch. Start at a flake pinnacle at the lowest point of the cliff.

1. 26 metres - Climb the pinnacle and the crack above the apex, moving left to belay on top of a flake.

2. 34 metres - Straight up the unprotected slab to a sloping ramp. Right along the ramp and up a short wall to belay on the ledge.

3. 30 metres - Up the slab above by a shallow groove.

The first two pitches of 'Deep Space', followed by the last pitch of 'Sickle'.

An excellent multipitch at the grade. The rightwards curving crack under the overlap. Start in the corner at the left end of the slabs.

1. 12 metres - Climb the left-hand (or the easier right-hand) chimney to the top of the huge block.

2. 30 metres - Step off the block and climb the crack to a sitting stance.

3. 15 metres - Constricted moves over the water runnel to a bush belay.

4. 23 metres - Move back left past the bush for a few metres, then pull onto the wall above, and delicately along the thin diagonal to gain the handcrack (phew!). Cruise to the top.

Up the curving corner, step right, then up the crack.

You'll learn that brushed slabs revert to lichen in 30 years. The slab five metres left of 'Schoolgirl Lingerie'.

Start as for 'Flowers and Fruit'. Up the ramp and diagonal crack, traversing right around the arete to a jug and then up.

A bouldery start then solid climbing all the way. This climb has seen some serious falls, but can be well protected with a good rack of cams.

The tiny crack around to the left of the main face.

Forgettable. On the uphill side of the boulder to the left of the tree with a rope tied around it. Rap off the branch.

Worthwhile. Up the left-hand crack until it peters out, then step right into 'Friendly Persuation'. Also very mossy now.

A relatively easy, clean offwidth. Start: From 'Gazelle Boy' walk left (northwest) along the contour on a vague cairned track for about 40m. The track passes downhill of most of the boulders then goes uphill. Just after you turn uphill, on your right is a gap between two boulders. Just A Steal is on the uphill side of the gap.

About five metres right, with a marked start hidden behind a flake, is a narrowing corner crack with a very hard move to finish.

One of the better, if typically short, cracks at 'Legoland'. The obvious crack in the right (western) wall of the passage into the atrium. Walk right and scramble to descend.

The clean cut chimney in the corner halfway between 'Motown' and 'Technocrat'. Well protected with tubes and larger cams.

Start: in the open cave facing the valley, at the left end of the sector. Climb the crack which is formed by a slab and the roof.

On a boulder left of Freewheeling. Climb the wall traversing right to the top.

Many eliminate's can be made on this boulder problem. Start low on crimp jugs and cruise to the top.

The nice flake in the courtyard behind 'Snatch it Back and Hold It'. Camalots 4 & 5 recommended.

Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge.

The crack system around the corner 25 metres down from 'Beauborg', with a tricky start. Belay under the roof and scramble off left.

Start beneath the massive wall, well below and right of 'Banana Bender'.

1. 15 metres (16) - Up the crack-flake system to a crux 'swimming pool' mantle onto an enormous ledge. Bolt belay.

2. 10 metres (14) - From the rap anchor at the far end of the ledge, climb the ramp then traverse easily to bolt belay on Lartigue.

Offwidth-chimney with a chockstone at 1/3 height - sling for a 'Thank God' runner.

The obvious chimney five metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap' with an off-width start.

OK and alright. Start below the right wall of an open gully 100 metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap'. Climb up the flake, then the slab to the overlap. Traverse right then diagonally out onto the arete and up.

The name says it all. The wide crack two metres left of 'Meaty Bites'.

Interesting. Start on the boulder to the left of the small gully, at a short corner leading to a curving off-width. Climb the crack to the roof, then left and up the off-width to a ledge. Finish up a short corner.

The other side of the flake. Climb the right-hand crack, then the flake. Finish up a short corner.

The 'Juveniles and Geriatrics' of the Tor. Pleasant climbing on the cleaned slabby wall 30 metres down and left of 'Skarasen'. After a hard start climb the groove past two bolts to the horizontal break. Move diagonally left onto the nose then rightwards past another bolt to summit jugs.

The crack on the left on the southern side, which narrows in the middle.

The thinning dirty groove in the white slab well below and right of the big tor, with one hardish move to finish (the grade has been debated).

The crack five metres right of 'Hot Dog'. On the first ascent Ken fell off seconding, dragging Adam three metres over the edge before the belay went tight!

15 metres further left and slightly uphill is a rightwards trending wide crack system, first climbed at the end of daylight saving.

1. 15 metres - The steep fist crack (crux) eases back then step left to a good stance.

2. 25 metres - Continue up a corner system to belay behind large flakes.

3. 15 metres - Take the rightwards leaning flake to a good stance. Finish left up a slab adjacent to the diagonal crack.

Stand start from base of crack then climb up and top out.

Stand start from base of large flake then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up trending rightwards and top out.

Stand start from base of slab then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start from jug then climb up trending leftwards and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out. Opposing block is out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Needs cleaning. Start as for 'High Spirits'. Climb up to the top of the flake and step right into a groove. Up this on positive holds past a bolt to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a belay below the big roof. Scramble off right.

danger - this route has NO protection

Ascends the scoop and slab at the right-hand end of the east buttress. Start at a fallen tree and, when the scoop ends, traverse left a couple of metres before climbing straight up. No pro.