Routes in Australian Capital Territory for selected grade

Steeper than the average slab, bigger than most climbs twice its length, with a fun roof. Start in the right hand of two slabby corners right of the river. Delicately up onto the arete past bolts to the roof. Crank across right to clip the peg (a 3/4 Friend and #4 rock back it up) then heelhook out left and slap blind (die laughing) for the jug above the lip. Follow the bolts to the birdshit and up the final steep headwall past another bolt to the double bolt belay and rap station. A two rope rap avoids the gruesome scramble up loose dirt to the top.

Another Bosch marvel. Takes the left-hand slabby corner left of Sewer Side. Up the slabby corner and arete past four bolts to the overhang. Reach up and clip a bolt, then a technical pull-through to a short crack (2 1/2 Friend and #3 rock). Up the wall above, right at first then back left, past two more bolts to the alcove in the BIG roof. Small wires protect the final clip, then bridge up and launch out left over the roof to a ledge and rap station. Two ropes to the ground.

Horrendously technical pocket climbing with more bolts than decent holds. Start on the brink, where the surf meets the slabs. Clip the bolt to avoid a watery death. Pull leftwards out over the waves to a sloping foothold, then cruise up past two more bolts. A small detour left, then relentless pocket pulling to the double bolt belay and rap chain.

More of the same steep pockets. Start as for Lure of the Sewer. Climb past two bolts, then lean left and clip a bolt below the little overlap. Move left keeping your feet below the overlap (crux) to a good pocket, then a jug and a bolt, of cours. Up directly past two more rawldrive surprises then back right to the rap stance on Lure of the Sewer.

A big route threading the major roofs. Quite sustained with brilliant moves through the top overhang. Double ropes, 11 draws and a #2 Friend are the essential items. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp. Left 5m as for Rising Damp, then up into the little V-groove. Follow this up and take the diagonal line to the roof (5 bolts to here). A #2 Friend protects the clip above, then seize the suspect mega-block and pull awkwardly through to good jugs and a bolt on the wall above (good rest on the guano ledge out left). Cross the wall rightwards (crux) to the diagonal crack and another bolt, find the high jug and gut loose left through the final roof onto a sloping ledge. Up and easily right past a final bolt to the rap station at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

Fine pocket climbing down low and awkward groping past loose blocks in the first overhang. Takes a rightwards line crossing Gutter Crimes at the first roof; double ropes as usual.

1. 15m As for Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Move right from the belay and climb the wall on deep pockets past 3 bolts, sharing the odd move with Sewer Rat. This will land you under the first roof on Gutter Crimes. Clip the bolt in the groove above and traverse right past another bolt and the suspect blocks, then long reaches right (crux) to big jugs, pockets and a bolt. Continue up past another bolt then some leftwards moves through the final roof to the last bolt on Gutter Crimes. Move right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A devious climb which weaves around some big overhangs. Double ropes and some long slings will save major rope drag.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Up to the first bolt on Mission Brown, then right and up the corner past 3 more bolts to the hanging groove on Gutter Crimes. Up this (#2 Friend below the roof and a long sling to the bolt) and left onto the guano ledge [there's a two finger pocket in the roof left of Gutter Crimes groove for anyone who wants to take the route straight through...]. Clip another bolt (long sling) then out to the arete. Up past a high bolt (crux) to a thin crack (#1 rock) then up and right to the belay on Mission Brown.

3. 10m Stroll right to the rap stance above Doppelwandiger.

Bring a mat and a spotter - big sharp rock right in the fall zone. While this climb is quite short, it's also almost devoid of anywhere to place your feet.

Before the fence, there's a group of boulders to the right. Sit start on the first 'face' climbable boulder, off two sidepulls and up. Strenuous, short, and massively contrived. Getting feet set is very, very tough.

Sit start up the arete. Burly. Round the corner of the boulder from #12. Top out directly from the undercut side - don't pull around onto the slab.

From a stand start, head leftwards and up past a glory incut at head height to the hueco then up.

Sit start. A large amount of rock has broken off on the left side. There is another large piece that is ready to go at any moment, but shouldn't affect the difficulty. Grade depends on whether you use the kneebar.

Sit start at right side of the face, then up arete to top out.

Sit start from the crimps low down to the incut then straight up.

Sit start from low rail, climb straight up and top out.

Sit start, climb arete and top out.

Sit start, around the back end of a boulder that looks like a split cherry, but is not the split cherry. Nicely compressive and balancy, but only a move or two in it.

Traverse left from about 1 metre right of #41 (shares a start with #41 LH variant), around to the big crack and up.

Start as for #41. Full traverse of boulder.

Sit start the arete. Crimpy.

Similar to Ray, this problem can be desperate or feel deceptively easy depending how you approach it - go straight up, do not deviate. Sit start doesn't change the grade much but add 1 if you go straight over without using the crack.

Around the corner from the best crack climb on the Ridge, this is yet another slabby semi-highball.

Nearly vertical slab. The blunt arete.

Vertical slab! Enough holds on top - just. If you're brave you'll mantel it.

Another slab, one of the more highball problems on the ridge. Could stem it.

Sit start left side pull, climb face\arete and top out.

A quality climb slapping up the arete from a sitstart.

Cute little climb with a few suspect flakes. Sit start out right on rounded side pulls and head left onto good footholds and easily topout.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Stand start from base of arete then climb arete/face and top out.

Stand start from base of thin crack then climb crack/face and top out.

Sit start only using boulder then climb up and top out.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb face/left side of arete topping out.

Bevan Ashby

Route is on top of Beaver n Goose block. Sit start using high feet then climb up and top out.

Sit start from base of crack then climb up and top out.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

A leaning corner above the water at the lefthand end.

Marked with a faded "S" and starts a meter or so left of Closed Circuit beneath a vertical groove. Nominally follows the vauge groove, then right for a few moves, then finish straight up. Arbitrary and challenging to find moves that aren't part of Standing Room Only or Closed Circuit.

Step right from the corner once you are above the overhang and climb the groove up and right.

Up the arete beneath the roof, then reach through to jam the crack and make a few bouldery moves to transition into a layback on the wide section, before face climbing to the top.

Strenuous climbing up the small corner. Head left to the flake and layaways. Finish left as for Extremely Anal.

Continue up from the corner and slightly right to a jug just below The Bummer, then traverse left on big holds.

Sit start on the big hold and move right and up.

Sit start and head up slightly left to a tricky topout.

Sit start then up and over the overhung arete.

Stand start and straight up.

Great technical and sustained climbing on really good rock. Start at the corner and climb up right to the vague arête and boulder your way up weaving left and right of this feature until you get to the last bolt then head right to the anchors of Milla Jovovich. Might be harder than it says on the tin, but maybe not. You be the judge. Fantastic climbing either way!

First route climbed on the crag. Hard, bouldery climbing on great rock. Shares a lower off with 'Sausage Factory'.

A long route with steep sections separated by rests. Start on the small ledge below the small and shallow chimney.

One of the best routes at the grade in Canberra. Start in the corner moving left under a little roof then up the blunt arête and onto small ledges to chain at the top.

Start as for Arga Noah but move right under the overhang with a hard move to the lip of the ledge. Continue straight up to chains.

Start up Carp Attack then head up the arete (left variant) to finish at chains shared with Carp Attack.

Well protected and easy through the lower part, then a few good harder moves above. Heads right where Straight Edged Emo goes straight up the arete.

Great climbing. Start climbing up easy to the ledge. Can be finished here at 16. Continue up the face on good holds with fun crux moves.

A respectable extension of Red Sorghum to the top of the wall - finger locks up high & mind your head game to the anchors!

Note: abseil descent

Start at the fin, boulder to the ledge and then head straight up the face. A slung cam might help protect the runout bit off the first ledge. Finish at lower off for Red Sorghum. Optional #1 friend.

Sit start with right hand in the crack and left hand on the obvious hold on the arête. Not much in the way of feet but a heel on the right is helpful. Top out.

Long. Took a while to brush properly. Start as for Fenian Brotherhood but keep going along the lip of the boulder. A big move gets you to the highest part of the boulder then traverse a little more and top out.

The arête left of Factor B, sit start and up

Sit start at arête and trend left.

Sit start as for crc, pull right into ec but instead of finishing up ec pull back left and finish up crc.

Sit start as for crimson red calm but pull right onto the jug that you throw for on eating calluses.

Sit start at the very right hand edge, traverse through the slopes and finish by mantling at the apex of the boulder (i.e. eliminate the good horizontal break for hands). Contrived but climbs OK.

Eliminate. Sit start in crack and climb face left of crack. Crack and left arete are in, all other boulders to the left are out.

Sit start then head left around the arete on small holds and incuts. The crux is getting up over the ledge at mid height. Roughly v3 if you eliminate a few holds.

Silly eliminate. Using only the toe-hook on the left side (the incut notch on the right side is out), slap your way up the arete and then take the big swing (tiny swing) before campussing your way to the ledge then mantling your way to the top. Sit start.

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then head right using the odd volume for a side/undercling and finish for problem 12.

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then climb the arete using only the holds on the left side.

Start matched on the big triangular undercling (slightly awkward). Use the diagonal slot at about head height with your left hand before reaching directly up to the rail (no other handholds allowed here). From here trend up diagonally right topping out over the small bush.

Like Ascension, hard to grade. And massively sketchy. Using the rail on the very right hand side of the boulder, get your feet under you (do not use the mercy boulder just to your right) and dyno up onto the horn. If you manage to make it, congratulate yourself that you've averted broken bones, ponder why the hold isn't just a liiitle bit more juggy, then figure out how you're going to get up the top as you're not done yet.

On the side facing Lake Burley Griffin is the first short wall in between the main wall and the stairs. Can be climbed in either direction, though left to right seems more difficult.

On the same wall as Bisk limpket there is an arete on the far left as with most routes here start with your right hand in the crack and left on the arete. Head straight up on the juggy arete with the crack for help.

The stand start to Power Up, starting in the middle of the wall and up via the slopey middle top out.

Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete.

Start around the corner and above blocks left of ‘Bundy Rum’, highball to the top.

Sit start crack, top out.

Sit start at the scoop, then up via good rails.

Sit start.

Sit start with hands in thin horizontal crack then up.

Thin slab.

Sit start.