Routes in Australian Capital Territory for selected grade

Open project - traverse the obvious ridge of the icecream boulder near to #6 - all the way! Crux is the section facing to the road. Has been attempted many times, including by a foreign climber doing 8b on rope! If you send it, please grade it.

Quite a lot of the rock seems loose/hollow - use caution.

Sit start from low jug, climb up trending rightwards and top out.

Sit start from low rail, climb up trending leftwards and top out.

Sit start right of Raw Beauty and throw to the incut or alternatively, use thumb press to progress. Need a big reach.

Same as #67 but eliminating the two aretes, instead going from the chipped holds to the incut before deadpointing to the top.

Sit start, climb vague corner and top out. Watch your back.

Sit start on low side-pulls then straight up using pockets and edges to slopey top out.

Start as for Frankenstein, head up Hades and then continue left to finish directly above the big pocket on Zeus.

Sit start from finger lock then climb up and top out.

Sit start on the big hold and move right around the arete and up on slopers.

Sit start and head up then right around the arete to topout.

Sit start at the far left of the block and move right to join and finish up "Smoothie".

Sit start and up the overhung arete.

Hard, bouldery climbing up the uniquely Gritstone-esque arête joining 'Wide World Of Sports' for the last bolt and up to the shared anchor.

A fun and obvious link up.

Climb 'Watching Every Move' to the 7th bolt, then climb up and left into 'La Corona' for its last 2 bolts culminating with the spicy arête boulder problem to the anchors.

Up 'Watching Every Move' and traverse right after the crux, crossing 'Little Bad Girl'. Excellent sustained pumper climbing that is rare in Canberra!!!

Another fun, long link up for those that love pumpy routes that feel more like a journey than a boulder.

Start up 'Cheerleader' and at the last bolt before the anchor (the anchor of 'Heaven Sent Honey') head right past 2 bolts to join 'Beautiful and Bald Like Barten' and finish up this to the top.

A little creativity and some long slings on the first 10 metres can prevent rope drag from becoming an issue on this at the end of the route.

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Up 'Little Bad Girl', then branch out right onto the face. Good moves and a cool crux. Mostly fun moves on good holds and crap feet.

A long, pumpy link up that climbs extremely well and provides a length of endurance sport climbing rare around here.

Use a bunch of long slings to reduce rope drag.

Climb Heaven Sent Honey to its last bolt and then traverse right via two new bolts to join Beautiful And Bald Like Barten and finish up to this route's anchors.

Grade will depend on your size as Heaven Sent Honey is morpho / height dependent in the middle. Take whatever grade feels appropriate for you.

Up Beautiful and Bald Like Barten to half height, then break out diagonally right through roofs to lower-off.

hard and dynamic roof crack starting just left and down from the main cliff facing out. grade might be easier than whats listed because im not the worlds strongest crack climber.

Stand start with your lefthand on an undercling/righthand on a side pull then climb up and top out. Originally climbed using the high right sloper.

Sit start with right hand on pinch and left hand on side pull and go straight up the small square shaped arete.

Sit start with right hand on good crimp and left on pinch. Throw for the jug and straight up. If you don't like the throw move start matched on the crimps and go straight up on smaller crimps.

Stand start with a long span between left hand sidepull/undercling and high right hand diagonal rail. Head straight up.

An absolute classic. Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake into the slopey middle topout. Originally graded V8 but vandals and time have reduced the grade.

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake to top out on the far right side of the wall.

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side.

Sit start off a jug then through crimps to topout.

Sit start.

Squat start? No sit starts really possible on this boulder.

Squat start (?ish) then up the poor incuts topping out right of the end to 'Around The World'.

Squat start and trend up the arete to reasonable holds, then a super-high step and you're away.

Sit start as for I Done Tussled with a Whale, left to crimpy flake then big move left to match on (far left!) crimp rail, mantle up.

Variant of #17. 6+? On sidepulls and using the arete (toe hook/heel hook) but not the opposing boulder. 6 in the new guide but possibly harder.

Sit start low on the two slopey side-pulls (facing Mojo Connection). Climb a technical slopey sequence eliminating the higher arete (used on the Chase). Less contrived than it sounds.

Sit start far left and traverse overhanging lip around corner to mantle.

Left

Right

Sit start on right crimp. Head straight up through the crimpy face.

Head directly up from the start holds of Johnny Good Boy Tyler ending up at the obvious sloper and a tricky mantle.

Stand start on crimp rail, move up and right to top out.

Jump start. Sharp crimps.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start deep on crimps with a leg bar.

Sit start beneath "Soft Error", traverse left via underclings then top out via crimps.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start.

Sit start.

Stand start the overhanging diagonal finger crack.

Sit start.

Sit start to the left of the crack on the arete.

Sit start.

Stand start and up the right side of the shield using slopers.

Start as low as possible and topout with a big throw from a left-hand notch on the arete.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start at obvious flake/scoop combo. Compress, bump throw and delicately mantle your way to the top. Fantastic.

Stand start on the obvious left-hand diagonal jug (not high crimp sidepull) with right hand on arete and compress up – one of the best lines around. A must do classic.

Matti Puckridge

Up the face.

Up the face diagonally.

Stand start and up hard moves off the ledge. Highball

Underclings and up.

Sit start.

Sit start to micro-crimp then slap your way up with underclings.

Killer jug slapping up the blocks after a delicate face climb start. Was 25 until a hold broke making the crux alittle longer and harder.

If you can look past the reinforced and too-good-to-be-true holds there is some excellent steep cranking to be had. Start at the tree stump.

Funk your way up the chimney to ledge passing halfway anchor and then bust right on some great moves up high.

Tricky move to start then up blocks. Great bouldery moves up the arete on flakes and crimps in an exposed position.

Crimps to a dyno.

Another fun boulder-route hybrid. Underneath and to the left of 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy' is an obvious low jug rail, a metre or so left of this is a big two-handed flat hold and there's not really anything further left. Sit start boulder on this flat hold with your feet on the jug rail, climb feet first into the jugs and do some fun crimpy steep moves from the jug rail up into the start holds of 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy' and then finish up this route without escaping too far right into the ledges where you can rest, just power straight up past the bolts and to the chains above as per 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy'. The boulder on its own finishing on the ledges out to the right is perhaps V6 and very fun and worthwhile on its own despite being a bit lowball at the start. Linking into the route above makes the crux of that route feel substantially harder and a great power endurance route overall. Start tied into a rope with the first draw clipped and one pad under the crux of the boulder and it is a nice and safe little route. Enjoy!

The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh.

Amazing dynamic climbing. It's on from the get go.

Superb arete and roof. Crimpy number.

One of the best. Hard for the grade and thin. A number of holds have come off since the first ascent.

Short and punchy. A main crux hold broke off in about 2005. It is now about 26-27.

An excellent route and worth the walk down the ridge

Start at the same place as Skippy, traverse left and join onto Edwina.

Linkup.

Start as for Edwina the Emu and traverse right through the overhanging face, through the big sidepull/gaston of Around the Twist and then finish at the top of Pistol Squish.

Sit start to Pistol Squish using small crimps and a big foot out left if you want it.

Stand start from face/arete right of corner then climb up and top out.

Stand start as for Hot Cocoa, then move right to finish.

Sit start, and straight over the nose of the block using crystals/small edges.

Sit start and top out on the left.

Undercut sit start to gain the good rails, then nice edging to the top.

Sit start as for Rift Zone. After the first moves to get set on the good horizontal rail, head diagonally left and up past two more good rails, then up to finish.

Stand start then climb up and top out (block on left is out).

Sit start and up through jugs. Moderately overhung, a hard move with poor feet will get you to the topout. Start on the lowest incut/undercling or you may sacrifice a grade.

An easier variant can be done by heading up and right following the first move.

Sit start. Up through now broken flakes using a two finger pocket to gain the break and some crimpy rails reminiscent of 'Vendetta'. From there you could either go direct or left along the rail for roughly the same grade.

Up past a chipped hold onto a chipped scoop then throw a long way for a rail. Unusually for granite, it's reasonably overhung. Get feet set somehow and mantle.

Traverse from a burly sit-start very reminiscent of 'Phone Sex', round the corner and up through a single chipped hold and very balancy move to the top.

Thin face round the corner right of Mollusk