Routes in Australian Capital Territory for selected grade

Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN.

Vegetated and well protected.

Climb slabby cracks towards the orange roof. Trend right to go around the arete. Rappel down Burial.

Left hand trad crack

Follow the main crack to the break as for Dwarf Tossing, then the right hand crack to use DTDSCAAT's anchor

the arete just right of the hand crack

Start 4m right of Fizz. Enjoyable climbing up cracks and ledges to the anchor bolts.

Start 1m right of Soda Pop. Climb the left-facing corner for a couple of metres then straight up the cracks.

Start 3m right of Peroxide Power. Climb the shallow chimney, then cracks and grooves.

Scramble up the gully for about 9m until you are below the roof, then ascend the steep left hand corner exiting left under the roof to join Crossover at the committing step into the groove. Don't make the mistake of trying to directly climb the roof.

As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up.

Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear.

Start on the right side of the tiny tower, about 2m left of Intro. Steep and fingery climbing up cracks and corners to cross Intro at about half height at the base of the wide right-facing corner. Then climb flakes and edges to an awkward and committing step right into the groove below the anchor bolts. Climb the groove to the anchors. Variant: finish up Intro.

Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one!

Named after Armando's daughter. The crack at the left end of the crag. Start up Inky and move left into the crack near the white rock. Pleasant steep climbing up the crack with great jugs and one hard move near the top.

Traverse the crag from left to right. Difficulty depends entirely on how far you go, and the height at which you climb.

on the east side of the creek there is an obvious cliff along this cliff there are many cracks going up. at one of the largest cracks there is a slab (about 3m high) the climb starts here and just takes the crack until you topout. use a tree belay for your second.

starting at the lowest point in the wall begin to make your way up the path of least resistance going up and diagonally right. there are a few section of 0 pro so tread lightly and and take pro where you can.

Up short corner. Shares chains with Unstable Ally

• warning. 5th bolt no hanger or nut. 6th bolt loose bring a shifter. To the right of Memory Relapse across a small steep gully. Starts in gully then Follows arête and the face above to anchors.

To the right of Fake News around the corner on the same chunk of rock.

Rising out of the bushes on the wall below 'Meet Her at the Love Parade'. A great first lead.

The big chimney 50m left of Tower of Power. A surprisingly clean and charming adventure.

The obvious chimney facing the road.

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

Start at the crack 6m right of Blue Lights, on the other side of the same boulder. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness.

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

Trad anchor at top!!! Adventurous beginners trad route. climb up jelly bean past the tree then up the easy well protected chimney. be aware not to kick loose rocks off.

The slabby corner at the left hand end of the crag. A good beginner's lead.

The left hand route at the crag. Start off the block underneath the wide crack. Bouldery off the deck into and up the wide crack, traverse right and up the corner. Tough for the grade.

Layback and slab up the corner.

The mirror image of TLA. Climb the easy crack in the chimney at the back of TLA boulder. Access via a scramble, or the descent from TLA.

Start below a grassy recess left of 'Gibber Tari', and follow the crack and chimney before traversing right to finish.

V-shaped chimney on the wall 5m left of Dragon. Exit left.

Wide crack a couple of metres right of 'Skewer', at the right hand side of the crag.

The chimney right of 'The Lure' with some protection in a leftwards crack. Ugh.

Open chimney to the left of the main buttress.

The first line you see when approaching the crag. A short but lovely crack and a good beginner's lead.

The deep V groove 20m right of UFC.

Eight metres to the left of Euryproctus is a large flake leaning against the cliff. An awkward move to start, then easily to the top of the flake. Swing left into the corner and up the crack.

A good intro to jamming. The crack 10 metres left of Big Flake; many people continue with the second pitch of Marmalade.

The crack left of Running Crack - just not quite as good, and often slower with all the bushes.

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

This is the easy angled, slanting crack 15 metres left of Rise and Fall. Scramble up a tree to start, walk up to another tree then up the crack.

An easier variant of Possum. Start from the first belay on Possum.

1. 16m - Right along the ledge from the belay then back left up a ramp to join the second pitch of Possum at the end of the traverse; up to the big ledge.

2. 10m - Walk up the slab and corner behind the trees.

Start about 25 metres down the gully from Crack of Dawn. Climb the crack on the left of the buttress, up the rubble blocks and a crack to the top.

Chimney up the prominent fissure right of Scungy Wall.

The deep cleft 20 metres left of 'Bile' (and above the 'Paranoid' boulder). The only difficulty is surmounting the dirt and chockstones.

1. 20 metres - Climb the chimney passing the chockstone on the left. Step left then up a large flake to a platform on the right.

2. 26 metres - Climb the scrub above, occasionally moving back onto rock.

More of a bushwalk than a climb. Start at a short crack 20 metres left of 'Vinegar Stroke'.

1. 20 metres - Up the crack then walk right to an easy angled crack and climb this to a tree.

2. 10 metres - Traverse right around the boulder then move left up a tight groove.

3. 15 metres - Up the crack and chimney on the right to a ledge.

4. 25 metres - Easy walking for eight metres then up a slab to finish near the lookout.

A considerable improvement on the original.

4b. 30 metres - Walk left for 10 metres along a ledge. Climb the wall until able to move left into a corner then up this to a ledge. 5b. 6 metres - Up either the chimney or crack above.

The short, wet, hanging chimney bordering the southern end of the 'North Buttress'.

Start at the gully right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Climb the groove in the right wall.

Popular. Start in a small recess just right of a large pillar directly below the roof pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 32 metres - Climb the slabs and ledges to a tree, then up the crack and wall to a good ledge. Up the slab using the leftwards slanting crack to a grassy ledge and tree belay ('Hermes' second belay).

2. 18 metres - Pleasant. Start from a belay at big blocks 15 metres to the right of the tree, climb a short wall, pull through the hanging flakes and the corner above, then up a rib on the left of a gully. Tree belay.

An alternative and slightly harder variation from the ledge on the second pitch. Instead of the rib, climb the leftwards slanting groove to the left.

An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.

1. 40m - Rightwards up the crack, then follow the groove leftwards to a sloping ledge. Belay at some wedged blocks.

2. 20m - Doddle leftwards up the groove to a belay in the corner.

3. 25m - Bridge and layback up the short corner, then left and up the steepening groove. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.

4. 35m - Up the twin grooves to a large terrace covered with loose rock.

This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3.

2b. 20m - From the first belay, climb the groove for six metres and traverse right to a parallel crack; climb this and the large blocks to a good stance.

3b. 25m - Move left across the slab, back to the main groove and third belay.

An easy enjoyable slab on very coarse rock with a surprisingly exposed second pitch. Start 15m left of Tachyon and up through the scrub, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left.

1. 17m - Climb the leftward slanting crack to the foot of the ramp.

2. 22m - Diagonally right on the slab above the ramp to a recess at 7m, then up (crux) trending slightly right to a ledge with a large, loose block.

3. 45m - Straight up then slightly right to avoid the overlap. Continue steeply right to a horizontal crack. Above the crack either brave the lichen or move right slightly to join the final pitch of Eagle Eye Direct.

Start 35m left of 'Prohibition' (and 10m past Aquanaut Direct Start) at a right-leading, vegetated ramp.

1. 30m - Scramble up the ramp to a large flake (you can also start here - belay required), up this then the grippy slab to the ledge. Trad belay at the left end of a ramp, about 5m left of the first belay on 'Drunken Delight'.

2. 38m - Up the slab keeping to the left edge of the white scoopy rock to a ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off right.

Another easy slab, with small gear. Start 15m left of 'Aquanaut' at a wide, shallow groove with incipient cracks.

1. 34m - Up the slab then the groove (crux) to a ledge and DBB.

2. 27m - Easy climbing up the orange scoopy rock to the overlap. Climb the overlap then continue up the low-angled scoop and right to the ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off.

Parallel to 'Melmoth', starting about 10m to the left. Unlike Melmoth this route feels like a climb.

1. 33m - Climb the slab moving slightly right to the crack. Up the crack then step right and climb easy slabs to trad belay on the ledge.

2. 40m - Easily left to a large block below the black water streak. Climb the water streak then up the grippy slab to belay at the overlap.

3. 10 metres - Climb the short wall on hollow rock. Walk off right.

At the extreme right. Up the twin cracks, finishing to the left.

The undercut cleft just left of 'Deadwood Crack'. Climb to the overhang, move left and up the chimney and wall above, traversing right to finish.

The chimney 3m left of Magnum Force.

On the main crag at the far right, 25 metres right of 'Andromeda', below a leftwards sloping crack.

1. 18 metres - Up the crack, move left and up to a sloping ledge.

2. 22 metres - Move right along the ledge, then up the slab.

Looking uphill, this crack is located about 30m below and left of the start of ‘deep space’. Perfect hand and foot jams up the low angled crack.

A great position, not a bad route! In the east-west passageway. Chimney up past four bolts (replaced 2018)

Just right of Sasha. Up the obvious flake, then left around the bulge along the obvious line.

Up the corner groove and out through the chockstones.

Up the left crack to the apex, continue up the crack then step left into a wide groove.

Up the right crack (the occasional summer residence of Bill Begg's pet tiger snake) to join 'Smooth Dancer'.

Through the passage and left around the corner from 'Evil Ways' is a chimney with a flake to its right. The flake is 'Breezin' Easy'.

The first and worst climb done at 'The Cloisters'. Up the middle crack.

Pleasant easy climbing. The left crack on the buttress.

The chimney.

Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend right up the continued slab

The same crack as 'Darkling' on the other side of the boulder.

A chimney "located in the heart of the outcrop" below 'Sour Grapes'.

Just left of the top pitch of UD Start from half height, accessed stepping right from zen

Obscure. "The squeeze chimney about 20 metres left of 'Norm's Nees', done in two pitches, moving right to avoid the overhang."

This is the closest thing that I've found, although why you would split it into 2 pitches is beyond me. I may have to climb it.

The large chimney left of Vertigo. Start 10 metres in, and trend left to meet up with a crack near the top.

The arete left of Ace High. Start from adjacent boulder, reach first bolt then step on and right to the slab and up past 3 bolts to a trad anchor and then walk off.

Walk up the rather slick slab. Start: opposite 'Rentokill Surprise'.

The slab right of 'Ace High'.

In the middle of the low angle slab (back side of the 'Information' block) scramble up to the wide ledge at the start from the left to belay and start the routes here. Up the slab past 1 bolt to a trad belay. Scramble down

The other side of the Duplo flake. Start and slab finish are the same.

The mossy crack a few metres right of 'Manic Depression'. Done in two pitches.

Scramble up to a wide, mossy chimney above and right from 'Snow Queen'.

1. 20 metres - Up the sloping chimney into a cave.

2. 20 metres - From within the extensive cave system, scramble out through a roof hole using a vertical flake, or more easily to the right.

3. 20 metres - Cross the small courtyard and finish up a corner chimney.

Another 'must' for troglodytes, but also quite a fun route. Start (marked) some 10 metres up the very deep chimney at the right end of the 'Back Wall', where it turns sharply right. Climb the two cracks in the corner and onto the large chockstone. Straight up, passing the chockstones on their left, to exit through the hidden 'Worm's Tunnel'.

Start from the first belay on Labyrinth.

1. 14 metres - walk in at the base of the chimney on the e right, and up this past several chockstones

2. 6 metres - Up the short chimney to finish.

At the left-hand end of the line of slabby boulders below the 'Back Wall'. The bent, easy angled chimney.

The chimney with a slanting crack in the left wall. Belay from a flaky bollard, as for 'Lazy Dynamite'.

The slab just left of 'Cat Scratch'.

The thin crack up the slab. Well protected.

The slab right of 'Cat Scratch'.

Start below a flake to the left of 'Lazy Dynamite'.

1. 20 metres - climb the flake and through the chimney to a bollard belay.

2. 10 metres - Move up and to the right.