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Maldon Bridge

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 12
15

Seasonality

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Summary

Plenty of rock on both sides of the river near the old abandoned Maldon Bridge.

Description

Climbing on both sides of the river. North side: A cutting on the now abandoned north side of Maldon Bridge Rd. Its a small crag (approx 8m in height) with super easy access & 5 min walk down to the Nepean River for a quick cool off in summer. Maldon weir (spillway slide) is also located just 250m upstream. South side: scattered boulders.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park at locked gate at end of Wilton Park Rd. Walk down road towards old bridge.

The Weir Boulders can be accessed from a scramble down the hillside off the road (when the weir comes into view).

The Main Cave and Environs can be accessed heading down the road to the bridge where there is a footpath (rightside). Head down this then find path of least resistance heading off right (easterly direction) towards the river. The cave is where the river bends towards the south.

There is plenty of rock on the north side of the river (including the cutting), which can be accessed by crossing the river. Potential access from Maldon Bridge Rd depending on activity of the quarry?

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Eastern area. Some decent rock down near the river.

Sit start holding onto big suspect flake. Wedge butt in hole, reach around lip and move up face to top out.

Sit start on slopey jug rail. Nice pockets in rooflet to holds on face. A good bit of grunting will get you to the top out.

Start on square jug rail. Up to high jug, span across gap of death and onwards to finish at obvious jugs.

Extension of The Wheel of Spooge. Keep going all the way.

Sit start left of the pond on slopey left hand, crimpy right hand, and high heel. Crank up and finish at jugs. Potential for extension through roof on excellent pockets.

As per Amphibious Assault but traverse right to finish at jug in roof. Potential for extension through roof.

Sit start right of the pond in greasy undercling. Go up to jugs, follow these around to the right and finish up headwall to top out. Crux could be significantly harder if you have a small shindex. Potential for a direct finish through the roof.

Start with right hand on slopey dish sidepull, left hand in slopey dish undercling, right foot on horn, left foot heel hooked. Slap left hand up and top out.

Sit start on good flake undercling. Crank up and out right on good flakes and footers to top out the right hole.

Some will love it, many will hate it. Sit start on good flake undercling. Straight up to big undercling, then up to squeeze through small central hole to top out.

Same sit start as others. From the big undercling, bust left to exit out the left hole and top out, which requires a tight ass and some chimneying shenanigans. Could probably be done without the chimneying but will be harder (possibly better?)

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Fri 2 Jun
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