Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

Link-up of Jugs into Naiden?

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RBAON. Starts just right of BTS.

Top-rope only. 6m right of Interdependence. 1m left of gum. Wall right of low, short corner. Sustained, with good moves in shallow scoop at top.

Top-rope only. 100m right of Bugs. Start at left end of ledge. Up line of ironstone and right at top. This has probably become Gino Project 1 .

Just left of Soul Searching. Classic face climb that keeps you on your toes. For the full 21 tick stay out of the big cracks out left and right.

The obvious offset flake just left of the arete (Brazilian Butt Lift). Shares the same desperate start and many of the same holds as the climbs either side. It's the obvious line so it's not contrived, great climbing so who cares.

This is the left side of the arete climbed by the hot dog routes. Five meters right of High on Crack at the common start. Up and right heading over to the arete. Follow the arete up sometimes using holds on the left side and sometimes on the right, to clip the common anchors with the line to the left.

Direct start to Hotdog Water.

Line on bolts up the centre. Shares the first bolt with Hotdog Water.

Sweet mixed line up the corner starting at crack with some nut placements, then bolts on the overhanging headwall. Headwall has great rock and a couple of funky moves.

A little contrived but offers some really good climbing if you embrace the game for the movement and not the tick. Hanging arete right of hanging corner, its all just hanging in there. Start as for GFY, the 2nd bolt is just to keep your rope heading in the right direction. Head up to undercling and layaway at roof. Climb onto the arete and head up to the obvious jug. Use the left crack for a resting hold if you must, but stick to the arete. At the jug swap sides to the right and do the crux of GFY heading to the lower offs of this route. Needs a road map. Most people will pull off the climb and stand in the left corner for a rest but they will miss the fun.

Face to the right of Little Wank Club. Not as hard as Coprophagia but more continuous. Long reach to anchors.

Freshly cleaned route to the RHS of MooserWirt. Nice Mid section , Clip DRB from top of flake , Not much doing above that for the grade / toil.

Start three meters right of 2 Crimps 1 Cup near the base of the crack. Head up wall to small roof pull this on good holds then the jugs just keep getting bigger to the anchors below the death blocks.

Start on the same holds as for Warrior of Light then head right onto the face over the bulge. A nice long adventure with some thought provoking moves. Enjoy the view at the top.

Blast through the juggy boulder problem in the corner of the cave and shoot up the headwall on some of the best holds at the crag. Might be 21.

Thin head wall left of WTC of which is shares the starting 4 bolts, then directly up the awesome thin head wall.

3 crux wonder. Start up 3 Rooves to Glory then straight up corner (short draw or screwgate on 3rd bolt to keep rope away from rock) and corner/roof above (ring in roof to keep rope out of crack). Lurch around lip and finish up Skibumski

The extension to Airmail. Climb Airmail then continue up to the right and layback to glory. great moves up top.

The Crag classic, great climbing with some big moves and a cool finale.

Up blank looking face then into corner then up headwall. Great rock and climbing.

Start underneath small cave, traverse left 2m, big move straight up then trend right to the cave (good rest) and straight up to anchors to straight up.

Up the seam to the anchors

Stuck clip bolt and traverse in from the right on edges. Make your way up the arete. Rest in cave and tickle your way up the finger crack to lower offs.

Double ring bolt anchor. 1st accent done on rope solo. Feel free to bolt it IYL

Quality trad. Will probably only be repeated by most climbers on top-rope. Pity, as the gear is bomber. Rap from far northern ringbolts (2m right of small cave with FHs) to double ring belay on wall above undercut ledge (and feet on huge death block). Up splitter crack, which opens and closes for a few metres then right onto slab. Cams in pockets for a few metres then through steep section (seeps after rain) and final hard move up seam crack. Hand traverse left a few moves to mantle up to ledge. Leave a sling or rap rope on the lip of the ledge as a runner when you rap down.

The top half of this pitch is great, but the lower section is reachy and chossy (but well protected). Walk 10m north of Captain Cheese anchors to a second set of anchors set on small vertical wall on narrow ledge. Rap 40m down off these to anchor on arete right of corner with tiny ledge on the right about 10m above the ground - double bolt belay. Climb left into corner for a move, step left onto short arete, through reachy rooflet and then left across exposed face of flakes under monster roof to bolt belay at juggy section. Finish as for pitch 2 of Tree Tornado.

From the bottom of the abseil head north for 10m to find the 1st pitch. A unique climb in a great position. Don't rap down the route or you'll end up in no-mans land.

1. 10m (19) Pull up off the ground to a tricky move then straight up to the ledge with double UB belay.

2. 25m (21) Drop down off the ledge and traverse right then follow the bolts delicately up the slab to a tricky move around the arete into the hanging corner then up. Head diagonally right up the wall to the big cave with a double UB belay.

3. 25m (19) From the belay look north and you'll spot the first bolt of the last pitch. Clip this then step out over the void, traverse right slightly then head straight up the featured wall to the top. Double UB belay slightly back from the cliff edge. Note: Its extremely hard to communicate from the belay to the top of this pitch. Make sure you have a way to communicate with each other either by phone, walkie-talkies or the rope.

The fifth line of bolts in from the left. Start off the block and head towards the money shot at the end.

The second line of bolts right of SFK. Start to the left of the first bolt off the block. The usual thin mid section. The move thru the blank gap at the top is a little different to all the others.

Third line of bolts back from the corner, (including the corner line). Start from the ground. Thin moves to start heading up and left for the layaway. Cruise the middle using the classic mono-doigt. Easiest top moves on the wall. Well protected. Maybe easy for the grade.

Second line of bolts back from the corner. Very thin start on micro foot holds that become more micro by the ascent.

Line just to the left of the corner. Not as pretty as the other lines but will keep those who like the Big K snot & grovel interested. Up the corner for a few moves until you can establish on the face. A few thin moves some jugs and the anchors, what more is there?

Line of bolts 1.5 m right of the corner that you rap down. Dirty and will be forever so. Better climb it while its freshly cleaned after the first ascent. Or bring a brush. Thin start that relents to easy jugging. Guess which climbs aren't 21.

Mega-route, amazing climbing in the shade! Rap in to shared belay ring wall between Anthracite and Yellowrette with the big silly rings.

Excellent pitch of sporting goodness. Start off the ledge close to BFFS second pitch. Bouldery initial moves leading to slab, interesting rooflet and more slab. Lower off (recommended) or top out and belay from natural anchors or BFFS anchors (possible but un-ideal) .

This cracker of a route is about as good as they come. Varied, sustained and outright unique in every aspect. Belay from the chains on the far left of the main ledge. Say goodbye to your partner as they traverse over space and into the outrageous double dyno. After completing the mental crux, save some brain power for the next move and don't forget to enjoy yourself all the way to the anchors!

Quality sustained climbing at the grade. A good mix of adventure and fun sport climbing. Would be 3 stars if the first pitch was a little less sandy, the second, however, is one to remember! Take a single rack of cams (#0.5 - #3 BD. A #4 is nice but not necessary), roughly 12 draws and a couple slings for the belays (the bolts are a little small).

Pitch 1 - 20m - 21 (Fully bolted): Start off the small boulder up sandy wall and over small rootlet, 15m more leads to a belay in sandy cave (belay bolts on the outside face).

Pitch 2 - 30m - 21 (Mixed Trad): Step right from the belay, traversing the sandy underclings for 4m to the base of excellent hand crack. Blast up this picking up the bolts again once it widens beyond a #4 size and continuing up the continually good climbing all the way to the top.

The jam crack can be easily aided. Overall this route is very well protected. Rap back down to the ground to climb out something else at penthouse (Old Man of Oi is recommended for the full adventure experience)

Reachy arete climbing on trad - grade may go up if you're short. May get a first pitch at some stage - at the moment it is a rap in climb out single pitch. From anchors above Kaboom rap down the right side of the arete to belay at base of corner at tiny little footledge ledge and single FH (back it up with muedum cams to the left). Traverse left onto overhung arete (small cams in horizontal) then reachy move up arete (#4 camalot in break) then run it out up lovely orange rock to big pocket (#5 camalot) then fun little pockets and finish left onto the arete to anchors.

Bolted arete starting from ground level, directly below the rap route. Sandy breaks make this quite unpleasant unless you scrub in advance on the way down the rap line. Start off rock step above ferns. Up subtle arete then right under roof then up flake crack to small ledge, then up to main ledge. Clip single RB but belay on DRB on the left edge of ledge. #2 Camalot and wires are vital to protect the top bit of this pitch.

This line goes all free (no fixed rope shenanigans) and might be the best one on the wall. It is a good alternative finish to Storms at Sea if you find you've bitten off more than you can chew.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.5 to 4, with doubles of 1 and 2. No nuts needed unless you forget to bring hangers.

1. 25m (18) As for Storms at Sea and Two Boys One Skyhook

2. 25m (21) As for Storms at Sea

3. 15m (18) Head upwards into the corner as for Storms at Sea, but about half way up the crack, step left to reach a carrot. Continue up and left, clip another carrot and then reach a double carrot belay

4. 20m (16) A tricky move to leave the belay, then continue left into the choss cave. The carrot before you step past the green bush into the cave is the last piece of protection, so don't slip or fall after that. Walk carefully to the other end of the cave to reach a double ring bolt belay.

5. 15m (20) As for the last pitch of "Two Boys One Skyhook"

Harder, scarier and simply much better than "Two Boys One Skyhook". Enjoy challenging moves, good gear, fearful exposure and glorious ocean views on this excellent route. This was the original vision for this wall first conceived back in 2016. Back then it seemed too hard, but with time all things are possible.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.3 to 4, with doubles of 0.5, 1 and 2. No nuts needed.

1. 20m (18) As for "Two Boys One Skyhook" but continue past the belay to another pair of rings on the orange face above and to the right.

2. 20m (21) Clip the carrot and then execute a tricky move (crux) to get up onto the face. Do your second a favour and put in a cam (and leave it in) so they don't have to do the crux without swing-prevention protection. Clip a carrot and step delicately left, then climb upwards (the #4 is useful here). Mantle into the choss break then step left, clip a carrot, then, from the arete, reach up and clip another. Step right onto the orange face again and then continue up to the small belay ledge via a tricky hand traverse.

3. 15m (19) Head upwards through some greenery and into the corner crack. Go up the crack and step right at the top to follow the crack around the edge of the "Sword of Damocles" block, and, with great relief, gain the double bolt belay.

4. 10m (17) Step left, then climb up some suspect rock onto a ledge under an overhang. Don't belay from the first set of double rings, but instead step left a few metres to belay at another set of double rings.

5. 15m (17) A tricky move to leave the belay ledge, then clip a ring bolt and climb up to the crack. Put a last piece in nice and high, then pull yourself over the edge then scramble to the top. Belay off carrots.

Stand start and up textured seam on mossy boulder.

Plenty of good holds for a easy power boulder, but very exposed.

Wall and arete right of GBOBW.

[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]

An excellent direct route with great views The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB.

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

Start just right of Pig, initialled.

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional RB added to this route] The West Face test piece for up and coming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years.

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

Sit start on the big jug

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start.

Start low, hugging the boulder with left and right arete, use the arete on either side to progress. Trend left using crimps and slopers to top.

To start, match on the deep hold to the left of the boulder and bump right hand to the upper slit. keep traversing to the far side. Top out through the side of the boulder via the holds at the side and the top. Mind the footwork at the start, very cramped but fun.

Start matched on obvious right rail, move to left crimp and top.

Traverse high line from Ganglion to No 1 Crack.

Toprope Problem - use ganglion Lower-Offs. A balancy start with thin finger holds. Start at the initials! If you knocked this one off then turn around and head to the Noth Face dude!

[July 2012 - Lower Offs added] Guess what...Toproped. Get up that thin seam. No, you cant use the #1 Crack to start off!

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish. Bad pro.

Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index.

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 2 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall!

[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare), so Top Roping would be possible

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors.

Left of tree. Up to double rings. Feel free to use tree as aid, drop the grade by 10 tho..

Starts just left of the starting corner of Desperado. Up the arete and wall passing 9 RBs to double RB anchors. Worth the deathwalk, or an easy long rap in on a spare rope.

God save the Queen, if she ever tried this one she would need good fingers and strong finger nails. Start about 1.5 meters right of the large V groove of the Great Gastric. Up to the bolt near the slope then straight up to top.

The right arete from a crouch.

Sit Start into big move to the left side pull. Up to sloper and over.

Sit start as far right as possible. Shuffle up the sloper arete and mantle.

Start of the 'Middle Boulder' Start low, go for the lower ledge, then use the arete for pulling up.

Pull the arete, with right hand crimps, don't use the rock pile.

Around the backside of the 'Middle Boulder' Start left hand low on the arete and right hand on the crimp rail. Follow the crimp rail along and around without using the top ledge. Adjust difficulty as required with your feet.

(East side) on the left-side, start matched on the ledge 1.5m above the ground next to the tree branch. Use the decent ledges to move up to a slopey top-out directly above.

Cramped Sit Start as for Headstone to lip then head left to awkward mantle trying not to dab or fall onto boulder just behind you.

Sit start directly next to tree, straight up, finish same as other climbs

Start at the lowest pocket crimps, straight up and out.

Start lower pockets and head up leftwards and out.

Stand start and move up using crimps and dimples.

Any rock left of obvious break on the left is OUT

Stand start and straight up through a series of sharp crimps and pinches

A wicked V3 boulder problem you won't find the like of elsewhere, shame it had to be roped (for safety). Start at the right corner of the cave, get all 4 limbs above your head and figure out the sweet beta to moving along the hanging arete - hint: bring your good boulder shoes.

Low start on side pulls at the bottom left of the boulder, climb up a bit then traverse across to the right. Continue straight up and match on crimp halfway up the face.

Start in two hand under cling and head left and up to top out.

Traverse from right to left, finish matched on arete. Top 3 rows of bricks are completely eliminated.

To locate: The western of the two walls that look identical on the one way street by Belmore Basin. https://maps.app.goo.gl/VcNoCHmC2XWPrJb77?g_st=ic

Complete Low and Slow traverse (right to left) then layback up the arete and top out onto the street above. Top 3 rows of bricks are completely eliminated (except for arete and topping out obviously).

To locate: The western of the two walls that look identical on the one way street by Belmore Basin. https://maps.app.goo.gl/VcNoCHmC2XWPrJb77?g_st=ic

Sit start matched on the jug to the right of the overhang. Move up through the undercling and traverse left along the lip to the jug slot, then mantle up and over.

James McMaster

Same start as “up and over”. Move around front face and traverse on slopers.

Sit start on right hand side jugs near arete. Traverse across to opposite arete and move up face to top out.

Sit start on right hand side jugs near arete. Move up arete to top out.

Sit start on good crimps, moving up to left sloper and right arete. Move across on small ledge to top level corner before topping out.

Left to right trav.