Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

2m right of Jugs at right end of orange patch at base of cliff. Easy start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top. This appears to be a bolted version of the old top-rope problem End of an Era.

Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.

Top-rope only. 5m right of Rocks Don't Floss. Wall. Crux is at top. This has probably become Apres Ski

Flake in the cave, reach to jug out over the lip left, heel hook then crimp, mantle, grovel, whatever works to get up...

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

Amazingly contrived compression climbing. As long as you have your left hand on the crimps in the seam you are doing the route. Tricky start common to all three climbs in this area, Head straight up to the bolt in the wall just right of the seam. This bolt is a little hard to clip. Start compression moves here between the big holds on the offset feature on the right and the little crimps on the left. Four compression moves brings you to the exit and the jugs to the top.

Fifth line of bolts right from the arete of Hotdog Water. Thin wall climbing with a number of cruxy sequences. For the feel of the first ascent and a struggle at the grade climb the last two bolts on their left side rather than the pikers variant which uses the holds unearthed for the climb Womb Raider.

Wall just left of The Shield, up slab and through 2 cool roofs.

Juggy Choss for a couple of bolts, then awesomeness to the top on great rock. Embrace the techo arête.

Big reaches to big holds. Funky pockets.

Line of bolts 3 meters right of TT. When you get the triangle hold to chest height, head right to corner and up the line of shrubs. Alternatively from the triangle hold keep going up to the next break before going right into the corner. Two short hard sections with jugs leading to and from each.

Straight up the middle of offset flake ,Nice start to large pockets, Gets harder the higher you go, Bump up RH crack to mantle top,Enjoy the send/view from shelf.

A couple of metres right of the unclimbed corner, hardish start under a small roof then awesome head wall up top. Stick clip the first bolt.

Double roof direct start to any of the routes above (Cerebral capacity, Hill project ect). Clip first bolt on Greta Thurnberg then right and over roof.

A link-up of consistent grade throughout. Start as per DDLM, then when it gets though keep right at the crimps and step onto CDP.

Named after the graffiti artist. The first route climbed here. Tricky start, then beautiful pockets, some reaches and a slight runout to the anchor.

Starts about 3m left of the arete of the right wall of ABC area. Stick clip first bolt. Very thin start, then easier to last move left of bolt to anchors.

Powerful layback moves to start. Small cams in the roof corner and extend with slings. Traverse under roof where you could place a #5. Tricky moves to turn the lip and awesome crack climbing to the loweroffs. Can clean while being lowered or get someone to second.

Still awaiting a second ascent.

Start 2m right of Captain Nemo arete on the great orange rock. Technical and varied. Thin start, move right to closed corner . Up until easier to the anchors.

Up the seam to jugs and the cave then blast up the awesome headwall.

Head up the corner to the top of the block then up the vague arete to the anchors

#This has been fully rebolted

A nice looking orange face with at least two stainless carrots on right side of orange wall. Finishes up small left facing corner. This route starts on the ground in the jungle. There are two new u-bolts at the top. - it was pre-inspected and top-roped prior to first ascent.

One of the best here - well bolted, great rock. Rap in from two FHs in back of small cave, 5m right of Humidify to hanging belay above chossy undercut ledge. Climb slightly right on horizontals, then reachy move to crimpy 'slab'. Up right side of arete on great scoops then weird mantle up left then up face above. Finish left of perched boulder.

Right-trending face route up a series of flakes. Rap down south side of Titanical arete from u-bolts in boulder. Kick yourself down so you stay connected to the overhung wall until you can reach one of the bolts on this route and can clip in. Rap down and left to tiny vegetated ledge and giant horizontal u-bolt belay. Traverse right from belay and up mini arete to break. Crimp up then delicate traverse right across flakes to finishes at hanging bolt belay at end of pitch 1 of the Captain Cheese. Finish as for Captain Cheese or Titanical pitch 3.

Desperate start (stick clip the second bolt if possible) leads to pleasant climbing, punchy and interesting climbing out the left side of the rooflet. Shares lower offs with Comfortably Numb. Could be hard if you're short.

Launch up the bouldery start (beginning at the chains) taking the left line of bolts at the break 3m up. The exciting headwall continues to impress. Lower off from the single U bolt or mantle onto the big ledge (Double U's) and second your partner up.

This classy pitch will require your technique and endurance. Beginning at the chains, climb the bouldery start shared with Now Your Cooking taking the right line of bolts at the break. Lower off the first bolt of Ernie Dingo in the Attic or redirect though it and belay your second up to big ledge further over (not redirecting the rope though here will lead to a big swing should they fall on the last moves)

Are you a crack head or a face slapper? Up the short overhanging finger crack, then traversing left and up the headwall. Lower off or adventure up and build your own anchor.

A rap-in, climb out sport pitch on steep featured rock. Neil spent 2 hours hiding in a cave during a thunder storm attempting to bolt this. To get to the rap point climb pitch 1 of Avian Abattoir to ledge. Move belay to 2nd set of anchors on right end of ledge. Rap off these anchors down overhung wall to hanging belay about 6m above the ground at super pockets. Climb pockets, left to flake then back right and up overhung wall to break. Reachy move to arete and up slab to anchors.

An amusing mutl-pitch trad adventure up a very scenic sandstone buttress. The first pitch is a bit scary, the second pitch steep and classy and the top pitches a mix of green and gold. Bring a double rack of cams from #4 Camalot to small finger size, a single set of wires and a couple of slings. You'll also want a single 60m lead rope.

1. 15m (21) Start at sandy corner 5m to the left of the rap route (when facing the rock). Belay on top of little rock ledge above ferns. Cautiously up sandy flake to base of fused corner. Bridge up this (fiddly but bomber trad) then hand traverse right to belay ledge and DRB belay. Don't forget the bigger cams.

2. 25m (22) The best pitch of trad near Sydney? From the ledge swing left onto arete to secret hold (and cam placement) then straight up to splitter finger crack. Follow weakness up overhung orange wall, traversing a bit right and then back left to a single bolt. After a cruxy move past the bolt traverse right a metre then another tough move to finish on small ledge on left and DRB belay. If you are keen you could link this into the next pitch.

3. 15m (21 A0) A bit dirty and scary. Right a metre onto face then up to horizontal. Trend left up dug out crack onto slab and up to DRBs and fixed rope. Hand over hand up this rope past blank slab and vegetated slope (!) to DRB on large terrace.

4. 25m (20) Up little corner then traverse right along airy horizontal past high RB and right again to little corner. Stem up this to large vegetated cave. Either bush bash right for 3m then wander up easy corner system to arrive at summit rocks or...

5. 8m (22) Belay in cave at 'hairy rock' DRBs then do the optional finish through juggy roof on left side of cave. Two RBs and tricky mantle out.

Every cliff needs a girdle. The second pitch on this one is amazing. The first is currently terrifying and needs a bolt to make it less poo in your pants scary. Bring prussics for leader and second. Start on the left end of Main Ledge as for Stop the Bolts! pitch 2.

1. 30m (22) Up Stop the Bolts! Pitch 2 for 5m until on lip of roof. Traverse left across orange rock, boldly around the subtle arete with feet right on the lip of monster roof and across the middle bit of Neanderthal Pitch 2 past one RB to blocky corner. Traverse left on small pockets (RB) to hanging belay on arete. Lots of medium/large cams and slings needed for this pitch. Rope drag and communication with belayer problematic.

2. 20m (19) Wild, exposed and well protected. Possibly the best pitch at Scarface. Drop down (?!) a metre into horizontal break (#2 camalot). Traverse the entire length of the wall (2 RBs + medium/large cams in amazing pockets) to left arete (RB), then up this to small ledge and rap rings. Either rap back to ground (33m) or continue up to next ledge with small tree 3m above to 3rd belay on Avian Abattoir.

A strong and stout line. A propa trad line with some spice.

It has its own double U bolt anchors at the top, back up and left about 5m (facing out) from the rap anchors of Two Boys One Skyhook. It is possible to rap down the line using these.

Pitch 4 (crux) suffers from bad runoff and can be sandy after rain which is shame as its stellar and tricky climbing. A quick brush on the rap down will help for a more enjoyable time.

On the FA the first two pitches were run together. But climbing as two separate pitches as per the topo is better.

Be advised that Pitch 2 has some average rock and is runout. It has a 6-8 m grade 17 runout after the crux (gr 20 and well protected) getting up to the cave. It has initial good trad gear for the crux but traverses left through some brief crozzley rock getting to the cave. The climbing is easy but climb smart and gentle. Ultimately a bolt may be added here.

p1 - 17 p2 - 20 p3 - 18/19 p4 - 22 p5 - 20

Start low in the crack jug, then move out right to the massive flake, delicately work up and into the flake crack without slipping off the wall as you top out!

A classic fun roof problem. Big, powerful and straightforward moves.

Under the roof up left across some crimp rails.

Start at any of the circle of jugs at the base then at the end a knee bar helps get to a huge holde up and to the right

The steep and ever shrinking ledge. Commitment.

Start in the under cling and head right to top-out.

Pull up the flake to reach the ledge on good holds then power along the traverse. Sustained and powerful.

Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge. Slap direct to the anchors with a huge lunge off the ridge gaston, or pike right and use the arete if you are not tall enough.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

As for TTO but left out the roof and up.

As for TTO but left out of the roof, then back right and up.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip. Used to have a peg in the crack which has since rusted away and fallen out.

On the wall immediately to the right of The Arete By The Left Hand Side. Very thin up wall to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

Three carrot anchor in small cave near the top.

Sit start middle of wall. Left hand dimple pinch/side-pull (bowling ball hold), right hand finger pocket. Straight up and delicate top out left of middle bulge

Far right side sit start. Start with either 2 side pulls in the lower crack section or left hand out on crimp. Get those starting feet dialed! Straight up and top out at plant

Start at same holds as 'Nitro Wall Leftside' (V5), then climb left along until you reach happy gas and finish up this.

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC.

Start matched as for 'Fish Cake', big move out to right crimp and then top out.

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish. Double carrot anchor over roof.

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

Easy chunky moves up the side of the cave then a desperate thin runout above the carrot bolt.

Evidently climbed previously in the dark ages, evidenced by the rusted out carrot.

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carrots.

Well it may have been a good climb once, unfortunately a lot of the face has flaked off and more is ready to go. Dangerous! A shame as there are some really unique textures and holds on this blackened wall.

Starting at the left arete as per Jungle cat traverse along the rail to the right before exiting up the right arete as per climb #4 (the V2)

Stand start on crimp rail, up and left to sidepull then top.

Sit start on left arete and crimp. Power right and traverse the sloper lip to mantle at the peak. Very little foot holds.

Start left hand at the small picket then follow up for some solid pulling action.

Bum is the last thing to leave the ground. Climb into Pullman and follow to top.

Start matched as per The Vineland. Move right through a series of decent ledges to top out as per Tippy Toes

Sit start with left hand on the sidepull and right hand in the obvious pocket, move up to a slopey left hand pocket and then adjust feet to go into the crescent shaped pocket with either left or right hand, then pull up to a slopey topout.

Start low on the ledge, shift up the ledge. There are two ways to go from here, either straight up with your left, or sweet undercling crimp to balance then up with your right. Top out is difficult.

Start right hand on the undercrimp. Delicate moves up to the right then grab the solid ledge and go for a powerful and fun dynamic move to the top ledge.

Left hand at low crimpy undercling, right on higher crimpy side pull, move up crimpy line then dynamic move to lip and mantle

Starting matched on undercling near tree go up to left Gaston then right sidepull move across to the chimney and go up. Doesn't share any holds with Bushmans.

Alternate Bushmans line. Same start move but move out left to the gaston of Citronella and up the chimney.

Sit start matched on great edge. Big move up left to the two pockets. Then veer right to top out in the middle of the boulder.

Start matched on edge at chest height. Straight up. Either a big move on good holds or multiple small moves on bad holds

A chossy wonder for those needing steep roof training. From the back of the cave move out right steeply over dubious rock, the punch out across roof (crux) to reach lip and anchor. A fine line between the brilliant solid rock and sandy rubbish in the roof, be careful in choosing your holds.

Complementary route to the original on this buttress. Start at the right hand side, up steeply through jugs, then set yourself carefully for a huge deadpoint to a nice sloper followed by an exciting (easy) runout to the anchors!

Worth checking out purely for the first super strenuous boulder move. Big gull wing stretch to a pocket on the right arete and pinch on the left crack near YC, get feet on the wall then bump the left hand up slightly to a good hold under the corner. Unless you are taller then 6' you will lose the right hand and require massive core strength to avoid barn dooring out, you can move feet up and lever up left to continue a mess of sandy loose small holds. Use the 2 carrots from 'C' / YC to top rope.

Sit start on the low rail. Move left out around the 3D feature, then up through good edges to top out.

Crouch start on the jug in the middle of the wall with small ledge for feet. Traverse right along the crack, then up to the jug, before topping out at the highest point of the boulder. The ledge on the right hand side is out.

Sit start on sloper, powerful moves up to top with tricky mantle topout

Same start as it's ok to cry. Move up to the right to side pull crimps.

Sit start, feet below overhang. Move up through crack and left hand crimps and slopers.

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The left of two lines up an appealing little buttress.

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (Direct), with good small cams and options for small wires.

At mid-height clip the U bolt and traverse left with tricky moves to get established in the solid finger crack. Lock and funk with bomber gear to the double U bolt lower off.

The original classic on this buttress - great technical climbing up the columns with a distinct crux in the middle. The old 304 stainless bolts broke under load (!) and were replaced in 2020.

Line of bolts right of BM. Fun line that has a changing corners vibe to it. Two rings to lower off.

Sit start move straight up the crack to top out. No bridging on the right hand side wall.

Work up the slightly overhanging prow on cool pockets.

Sit start on right side of face. Move straight up the wall to committing top. Big span will help...

Sit start low on centre face. Move straight up to another committing move for the top.

Sit start below the break on crimps. Move up via good holds to a committing move for the top.

Low match in deep crack. Simple left right motions up with pad / half pad crimp, good grip. Finish at the two jugs on left and right of the corner. Careful of surrounding rocks.

In the clearing before the Quarry opening, on the right side of Crimp Pimp. Almost sit start, left and right on either corners crimps (very poor). Up between the two arrêts, then crossing into the second right arrêts jug to finish.

The left crack, two metres right of STEB. This climb ascends a pair of cracks in a wall, crossing from the right crack to the left at the start and back to the right crack at the top.

(1) Up criss-crossing like a mad man.