Routes in Scenic Rim for selected grade

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route.

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

Tarzan was on drugs! The dirty groove past a tree to a ledge. Continue up the corner R of PC. Keep going up the mank until you want to either stop, or kill yourself from getting on such utter rubbish.

Scott Camps summed it up best when he said "Let it be Forgotten". Up to a short tricky corner in the vertical jungle. It's so bad that it actually makes AG look like a good alternative!

The disgusting body chimney R of FM. Destroy your body, grunting up this disgusting excuse for climbing, finish as for FM.

More crap...up the other side of the pillar. Start up the flake, then wander up assorted atrocities until you collapse onto Theory Ledge, vowing never to climb this again.

A crappy little off-width continues up to an equally dodgy line above. Not very good.

The route up the corner directly above PP. From the ledge you tend to stay in the R crack, and then easily to the top. Semi hanging belay off large tree to R.

Start up W.C. until it is possible to step left into the chimney. Up this onto the pillar and straight up the hand crack to a trad placed belay below the 2nd pitch of W.C.

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA. Bolted belay anchor.

A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner. Rappel down from DBB directly above the route.

Not too bad. A fiery start up the dark corner L of FAFF quickly succumbs to an easy finish. Rap chains at the top.

Not bad! Climb the nice little face and finger crack to the R of Frog Fart.

The well protected hands, fists then offwidth crack on the R side of the same buttress. Worth a lap if you can find it.

Climb the outside of the body crack. Committing but enjoyable climbing on good edges. Better than it looks.

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it.

Very nice. Up the inital crack systems to a ledge at 15m. Place a high runner in the back of the cave, then bridge airily out to the top. Gear belay then rap off IM's chain or continue up and L through mank to belay at DW's anchors.

This climb offers a superb start featuring beautiful bridging and jamming, then a disgusting, hex-clanging thrutch of a finish.

Looking up-stream there are two sandy beaches. This problem is on the upper edge of the upper beach. Start in near the waters edge, ascend to the left, then use the pocket holds to traverse and top out to the right. Extra points for a backflip finish into the water.

Edit: It appears the 'upper beach' is no longer there and instead this problem exists above a shallow stretch of water. (see updated topo).

The best climb on Gillies. A well shaded beautiful lay back finger crack with good protection. A little choss but some beautiful moves. Top belay and rap from small tree and boulder at top.

Follow the obvious seam in the middle of the streak with OK pro.

It is a bit run out past the 10 meter mark.

Climb on to mallions.

A little caution should be applied to this one.

Start: This climb runs up a crack in a dark streak of rock.

It is directly off the track 150-200m downstream from the actual Grey Wall on the right.

Up wall on sloppers to high FH and onward. Mantle ledge to FH and up headwall tending left past 2 FH. The large rings are to your right.

Climb 'Snowball' to the 3rd FH, then swing around the arete. Forget about the bolt in front of you (creates brutal z drag) and just go up over easy terrain to chains.

Start: 3m right of TM. Up corner past 4 FH's. Trend right past 5th FH to chains.

Start: A few metres left of The Navigator, the big crack & root below the fig tree. Monkey up the tree root to very high first FH, then past another 3 FHs to anchor at tree. There is a plethora of trad gear + you can sling the tree root.

Start: The black groove L of Connoisseur’s Delight.

Fun climbing to tree, then a chockstone & a dirty vegetated groove to top. Down climb to Connoisseur’s Delight for abseil tree.

(Onsight soloed by Rick)

Start: Just left of BD.

Up hand crack then chimney, passing offensive block to ledge. Step right 2m and finish as for BD p1 at TB.

Start: Left of TOJJ

A short hand crack in the corner left of TOJJ just left of a prominent off-width. Short, but sweet!

Walk down to TOJJ tree for rap.

Start: 20m Left of Scarface arete & below a crack with a tree in it about 8-10m up.

Up the crack on the RHS to surmount the unprotected bulge (tricky mantle), then step back Left into the crack & up this to tree. Then follow a series of vegetated corners & cracks, steepening to a small overhanging flake, around this, then up Left when possible to the tree & up 5m to large TB.

An assortment of small to medium gear. A manky affair, not worth repeating.

Start: From TAF, head Left around the corner up a short pillar (4m) to the ledge/alcove above; the route starts in the corner on the Right.

1. 15 40m - Manky corner to start, leading up Right into corner, then follow weakness up Left, to more mank. Make your way up around the overhanging blocks & up to a Bushboy, then right across onto ledge & belay.

2. 10 15m - thread your way up Right through the crumbly, friable rock to the top & TB.

Not worth repeating. I took a fall at the top of the left trending rise & zippered the gear, resulting in a piece falling on my face, hence the name was born.

Start below the split arête. Follow thin, left tending crack to below small roof. Past this and continue up hand-crack to ledge, then up the steeper finger/hand-crack back in corner, just to finish with a short off-width to top of pillar.

Start: Unknown. "Easy free crack start. Mixed free + aid."

1. 47m 14/M3 - "Left from the overhang to bolt belay."

2. 37m 15 - "Up and across Right."

3. 34m 13 - "Stay Right, avoiding the mank."

4. 12m 13 - "Crack to top."

(Trevor's notes)

Start at the "S" below the Right sweeping overhang above. Follow the line of spaced RBs (good gear between), slightly left trending to the 5th RB below the orange overhang, then trend diagonally up & right (more gear to 6th bolt) towards anchors on YKROMD, passing another RB shared with YKROMD. Brilliant climbing on grippy rock, with good gear between the RBs. Small wires, cams & tricams.

Start below the prominent pillar, shaped like an hourglass.

1. 30m 15 Up this to top of pillar.

2. 30m 15 Left, then up to top.

A thin crackline up through a small cave. Up in the corner, delicate to shelf, up to the small cave, then out left & thin wall to finish.

Start: beneath cave.

RURP November 1969

Start: 10m down the slope from a large boulder jammed across the track at the far LH end of the East Face.

1. 40m 15 Up corner, then Left, up corner & left onto arête.

2. 40m 15 Up trending Right. Bit run-out in places.

Start: at the top of the East Face - LH end (looking at the cliff), a bit back from the gully, almost on the corner of the gully, down a sloping ramp.

Pitches 1) - 4) Down the ramp, abseil, then traverse to pedestal, climb down the crack, traverse with aid to Phaedra, lower 25-30m, tension (pendulum) across 18m to The AntiChrist bush(!?).

Pitches 5) - 9) Traverse Right, up cracks to Beau Brummel ledge. Easily down groove, traverse Right to small cave below the crux of ROI (pitch 3).

Pitches 10) - 12) Up Ruby Of India to the top.

Although it reverses Party Trick, there is considerable new climbing. Varied climbing, mostly free, across an exposed wall.

9 pitches of adventure climbing. The best of the three Deception routes - it was Rick's choice of the three Deception routes & he climbed it many times.

Start as per Deception II. Up to & including pitch 7; belay on the small ledge & bush (gear on the Left, behind bush), in the middle of the concave face.

★ Deception II 15 - Deception Link-up, climber on p7-4

1. (pitch 8) 52m 14 - Traverse left, across the face, then diagonally up left, joining pitch 10 of Deception I in the crack; continue up this to alcove (& belay) on left. A long traverse pitch = manage your runners well.

★ Deception II 15 - Mark Gamble on traverse across to DI

★ Deception II 15 - Deception Link-up route, Mark Gamble on p9-1

1. (pitch 9) 12m 12 - Top out at your pleasure.

Another 9 pitches of adventure climbing.

Start: As per "DI", walk another 20m further Right along the terraced ledge from DI (up over & around a bulge), near a unique four cave, clover-like formation in the rock. Initialed "DII".

★ Deception II 15 - Deception II start

★ Deception II 15 - Deception II start

(This is Rick's original route description - the grades have been converted to the Ewbank System & pitch lengths to metres. The hemp rope they used, was 120' [36m] & 1.5" in diameter. This precluded longer pitch lengths. With modern, thinner, kernmantle ropes & good runner management, you can certainly run pitches together, thus shortening ascent times. Notes re "tree belay" & "peg belay" should be allowed for: trees may have vanished in the 51yrs since first ascent & new ones appeared.)

1. 18m 12 - Over roof of cave & up wall above, through scunge, trending left to base of crack in corner. Tree belay.

2. 18m 14 - Climb crack by jambing & bridging, cracker runner. Peg (gear) belay at base of pinnacle. (From this belay, you can look down Left onto P1&2 of DI)

3. 33m 13 - Bridge up between wall & pinnacle. Up through shallow cave & over small overhang, then traverse right over slab & up to tree belay on verandah.

4. 18m 12 - Cross verandah trending right to cave.

5. 27m 14 - Out of cave & jamb up crack, passing strenuous overhang. Block belay.

6. 36m 15 - Traverse down to ledge, climb straight up corner on thin holds, using finger jambs & laybacks. Move up left past pinnacle & continue up wall to verandah.

7. 33m 13 - Scramble across verandah to tree belay at base of steep buttress, just right of steep V-shaped corner. [NB: Blackened tree stump is still there.] Up blocks left, onto slab, follow weakness trending slightly left to small ledge & tree belay (gear behind).

★ Deception II 15 - Deception Link-up, climber on p7-4

8 33m 14 - Out Right from belay, follow arete up, a but run-out in places, mantle onto ledge & belay in corner.

9 12m 12 - Up groove to summit.

(On the first ascent, Graham, who i spoke to in 2007, recalled having no gear or holds on pitch 8, he called out to Rick on belay. Rick jokingly said: "Oh just leap for the tree", which Graham did, much to Rick's horror.)

Left of Jo Jo: up the vague crack, past a flake & up to small cave. Out right & up to ledge, finish up off-width.

The overhanging corner, tucked away on an upper ledge. Easier than it looks. Bomber gear and terrific bridging moves, make this one of the better routes at Viewpoint.

First obvious R facing corner at the crag.

1. 20m 15 - Broken twin cracks lead up to a dead tree & small ledge. Sustained climbing & some run-outs.

2. 30m 15 - Up the lose gully, a tricky move to get into the crack proper, then superb crack/off-width climbing to top. #5 cam is recommended to avoid a 20m run-out. A 50m rap back to ground level.

Pitch 1 gets 1*, pitch 2 gets 2*

1. 20m 15 - Up the terrific flake/fist crack with dogleg at 5m, just R of Rocks of Honey. Up to same ledge & TB as for Rocks Of Honey.

2. 10m 14 - Up the diagonal crack in the corner, around the arete & belay from tree on big ledge.

3. 10m 12 - Up the short corner & belay from large ledge.

4. 20m 15 - Up the face on nice crimpers & top out at your pleasure.

You can run the top 3 pitches together, if you manage your runners well.

The off-width crack just R of Minimum Security. The only route at Viewpoint with an initial. Up the off-width 5-6m on awkward moves to where it thins & eases and becomes a nice face climb. Belay from the cable around tree. The first route freed at Viewpoint. (You'll need a #5 cam for the off-width.)

The last route on the cliff, 2m r. of RFN. Climb the off-width to left of the burn tree, then bridging & corner climbing up the r.facing corner. Trend L at top & TB as for NTFT. Great chimneying and bridging.

The most prominent and obvious crack at the crag, the short offwidth boulder at the right end of the cliff (climber's right), climbed half-in half-out. Small tree on top for belay.

Start in an alcove just Left of a small overhang. Up then trend up Right across blocks to TB.

Initialled "UP". (see photo)

Somewhat separate from the other routes at Baby Buttress: squeeze through the pillars far right, make your way up around into the left corner above.

A hard start, then pleasant bridging & jambing up the twin crack system. Rap off trees.

The big, leaning boulder next to File.

A layback corner at the top of Widow Maker Buttress. Up the thin corner, then a chimney to top. Superb climbing.

Gear is terrible but at least there isn't much of it. Could use a retro. Meanwhile it's possible to top rope by from above with about 20m of static line

Rising traverse on jugs on rhs of creek

Thrutchy crack climbing. A tricky move gets you established in the crack proper. Great protection all the way to the top.

Lots of loose rock in this crack, then fight with the brush for the rest of the way

30m (15) - Slightly thought provoking moves off the deck but it eases up after that. Be careful of rock fall as the seconder, some choss about. Belay in corner at top of crack on solid gear.

25m (12) - Push up to the left around corner to large bushy ledge with crack in back right corner. Use tree belay or gear in good crack.

35m (14) - Money pitch! Arcing hand crack with windswept jugs whenever you need 'em! Crack widens close to the top and turns into boulders. Belay off good boulders or trees on large bushy ledge.

40m (-) - Bush bash up through scrub heading right before a small 3m scramble off the the left leads to the base of an awesome chimney with questionable rock quality.

30m (13) - A surprisingly great finish to the climb! Despite the poor rock quality at the base, this pitch has solid gear with a small crack running up the back of the chimney. Push up the chimney , enjoy the musical tones of your hexes clanging on the ironstone rungs and squeeze past the final boulder protecting the exit.