Routes in Scenic Rim for selected grade

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

Not a great addition to the cliff. Up Condor for a while (you have already been warned!). Step R into a horrible, groin-breaking, wide V-groove with not a lot of good protection.

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

Left of Erg is a 5m block. Boulder the L arete of this to the top. Good climbing, but falling would not be pleasant.

Bridge and jam up the initial corner (which is still a bit dirty) until it eases in the middle. Head up the chimney and exit left around the chockstones. The protection is fine if you take a 5 camalot. Rap from anchors above CIT.

A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Take a few 3-4 camalots. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

The route immediately R of Theory. Up the finger then hand crack past some wedged flakes then the final offwidth which is sufficiently featured to minimise desperation. Sustained and varied with good climbing despite the section of questionable rock.

A climb best led on twin ropes. Start up SA for 4m placing a high runner in the corner. A tricky move R around the arete brings a stance and some much awaited protection. Blast up the crack and arete. Good fun.

A flared and ugly looking groove directly above the pillar. From there blast up to a ledge, and then, with difficulty, up a crack full of chock stones.

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

A bit of a ramble up to a corner which has a few OK moves then make your way to a tree and rap or continue as for A1.

A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'.

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Dont traverse too low or you will end up in the crux of Epic Journey. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

A good and technical boulder problem to a stance at 3m. It's best to jump off here but if you must, strap on some knee pads and thrash for glory up the wide crack above.

A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short.

Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge.

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here. Straight up to DRBB.

From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle.

The direct start up the off-balance and diabolically smooth corner goes at 21. To avoid this abuse of your body, you can go up YGH for a move or two, and then step across to the ledge. Up the twin crack system, with the final moves around the huge overhung chock stone being an absolute show stopper! Tree belay above the chock stone or DBB slightly left above YGH. The FFA details are shrouded in mystery, however Rick White, Chris Meadows and Mike Meadows climbed the line with some points of aid in 1969.

The start of this climb features a R-leaning Off-width problem that is both well protected and a great test of your crack-climbing abilities. Step into the corner and chimney of EB. Up with ease and good movement to the top.

Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails!

Start off the ledge between Brain Death and Hello Sailor. This is the L of the 3 obvious lines. Start up the long corner with a feisty little move at 4m. Blast for glory all the way to the top, watching for loose rock on the way. Natural anchors and chains at the top, the easiest way to get off is to rap off the chains, 2 ropes are required. The chains are hard to find; look around and they will appear.

The only real way to go. Start up HA to where it is possible to branch off R at about 15m. Climb up the fantastic corner to a bowel-quivering finish. Descend as for HA.

One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap down RURP from the DBB on the wall at the back of the ledge, not in behind the pillar as for Micron, which is notorious for stuck ropes.

The small line just R of FAFF. Climb the line on fiddly gear. Don't hang around or your arms will be reduced to a mass of pain and lactic acid.

Up to a hard move getting around the small rooflet. Then jam to a ledge. Finish here on natural anchors. Alternatively, you can climb the very easy corner at the back of this ledge for a further 5m, and you will come across the rap chains attached to the large tree directly above. Rock fall has made this top corner grotty and loose and the tree roots exposed.

Up RF for a move or two (you will soon forget this misery), and then step L into the thin crack on the L face. Finish as for FE (with the grotty corner and dodgy rap tree).

This short, widening little crack can be found above the previous two routes. It is a waste of time and oxygen.

A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to a #4 C4 are essential if you don't like run outs!

Just to the R of the previous route is this crappy little addition to the cliff. A dirty little corner that really has nothing to recommend it.

A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flares a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Physically challenging climbing to a stance at 2/3 height. Careful at top, block on right is a little loose.

Climb the arete on the prominent pillar where the track meets the wall. Starts on the slab with a high first bolt on good holds. Freerider your way up the prow to the summit and take in the views. Good route to learn leading.

A surprisingly worth while TR. Lead Platycerium to establish an anchor. Belay above the slab. Start on low crimps. The hand jamb is 100% optional but you selling yourself short if you don't do it. Finish by touching the staghorn for good luck.

This route originally traversed off right at the gully to join the northwest ridge of Isolated Peak, however it makes more sense to combine both the lower and upper faces as one direct line. Start on the centre of the Northeast Face below a large orange cave, traversing left at this cave and finding a line trending up and left toward the apex of the lower face. Cross the gully with some scrambling to find a line on the upper face, climbing this to the summit.

Nestled in a crevasse between two boulders to the right of the first major cliff you come to on the walk up from Mt Barney Lodge. This chossy monstrosity is only worth the trip out if it is hot and there are no alternatives. Shady is about the only thing this climb has going for it follow the weakness on the summit side. Aptly named, as upon topping out I was bleeding, cramping and screaming but lived to fight another month. Protection is okay until the top where a runnout through the crux is required. Two large trees at the top make a great anchor.

Up steps to slab and FH. Step right and up to FH then continue up passing another 3 FH. A couple of tricky moves for the exit and balance to mallions. Start: The first climb on the left at the Grey Wall

Up wall on thin pockets and edges to low FH. Staying out of the low corner climb the face on excellent edges and pockets past 7 FH. Then on to mallions. Wandering up and left with great moves on good holds Past final 3 FH and tend left around into a well hidden corner. You will find the mallions here. Can be done as a single pitch. Start: On the opposite side of the gorge roughly in line with 'Scorpion'

Brutal ugly thrash onto ledge. Up fern grotto to finish up 'Marge' from the 4th hanger.

Start: Left of 'Marge LHV'

Start: 3m left of RC. Up passing 4 FHs, then diagonally right under the orchids towards the fig tree root, clipping the last FH on RC. Shares the same chains as RC. A few long runners for the 3rd, 4th & 5th bolts would be advisable to reduce rope drag.

Start: 5m left of The Communist, below the column in front of the tree.

(Note: there are a plethora of trad gear options on this route, if one wishes.)

Start: 2M left of AFITF, next to the fig tree root.

The temptation to use the tree root is great, but it soon runs out, and then you have to show your true colours in any case.

A thin crack on the left, offers some additional protection for the first 8-9m.

Start: The prominent crack line splitting the pillar just R of Micrococcus.

1. 25m 18 - Terrific climbing up a great crack line – a three star classic.

2. 40m 7 - Scramble/climb to top with not much protection.

Rao off tree at end of pitch 2.

Start: On the face below tree Left of TOJJ. (see topo)

1. 30m 14 - From tree up face (an 8m run-out on easy holds) to next thin gear, Left across ledge top to next corner & up this to belay from top of pillar.

2. 35m 18 – Off the pillar & follow the line of weakness (better than it looks), up to the corner Left of the large orange overhanging block, into the crack & up large chimney (run-out), exit out left to belay from large boulders.

Rap off tree just below. Crux is getting established in the crack.

Start: A few metres left of NHIMB, up the crack to the ledge.

This variant start makes the overall climb even better.

1. 18 35m - Up the prominent corner with sparse gear. Belay on ridge. The next 2 pitches go up The Tiger Face Annex.

Start: Between the cliff & the tree, 3m Left of BBTL.

Up slinging the tree, then step off RHS & up to 1st bolt at 7m. Follow the crack all the way to the top, passing another 4 RBs, or climb the last bit of BBTL.

Re-equippedwith RBs in 2020.

Start: 10m Left of GAG.

Climb the face with the diagonal cracks to the Right of the wedged-in tree. Then up to the big corner to the top.

All trad up a classic crack-line.

Start: behind the log just Left of OTL, below the RB.

Up to RB, then up as far as you can go, after 9th runner, move Right onto OTL to finish.

Take small cams. (! RB, 12 carrots)

Best of the climbs in this top section

Next right of Adagio.

Right next to Prancing Puntz. Looks imposing, but its not that hard.

Up left to inside of cave. Same rap chain as Maltesers.

The sinuous crack/groove right of the 3rd cave, which steepens notably after 30m. Great climbing despite vegetated appearance.

Starts at prominent blunt arete

Start: At a block (shown on topo), below a crackline on a clean face, far LHS of Tiger Face, just Right of The N.E. Buttress.

Up the crack-line, to the overhang, & up through this.

Start: About 100m right of the N.E. Buttress (see topo of start) in the shallow corner. The initial 1st belay block is now gone.

1. 47m 18 - Up the crack/corner.

2. 25m M4 - Up Right to bolt belay.

3. 16m 16/M1 - Step Right from top nut, up, free to tree belay(?).

4. 20m 12 - Stay left of mank gully, left up ramp.

5. 12m 13 - Crack to top.

Named after they spotted a girl on horseback that day. (Length of route is an approximation only)

Trevor's original notes: "trees" may no longer exist.

Start: First pitch is possibly Plate Of Vegetables, heading out Right.

1. 17 __m - Start up the thin finger crack just left of Kelvinator Country.

2. 14 __m - Traverse Right across the face.

3. 17 __m - Traverse Right across the face.

4. 12 __m - unknown

5. 18 __m - unknown

(Route length is approximate. Data from Screamer mag, Spring 1989 & Chris Frost.)

Start: Roughly 15-20m left of where The Graveyard Ridge meets The Tiger Face. A prominent column + crack/corner (see topo).

1. 20m 17 - Up wall for about 20m, then out right onto small ledge & tree(?) belay.

2. 33m 14 - Back out left, & up the crack & over blocks passing a home made bolt plate:

   Tiger Face - bolt+plate-Stacked Bacon

3. 39m 18 - Over block, trending Left, to tree belay(?).

4. 15m 7 - Left up wall to large gum(?).

5. 35m 14 - Groove to top.

(Highest part of the cliff, route length is approximate.)

Note: these are Trevor's original 1975 notes, so "trees" may no longer exist.

Look for the big, round boulder sitting on top of the route. Start far Left, almost on DII start, below a small gum tree growing out of the cliff face about 8m up. Carrots = you will need bolt plates. Small to medium cams, small to medium wires, about 20 quickdraws. Gear up to first carrot about 6-7m Left above the gum tree. Route wanders a bit, following the trad lines. Good gear in the crack on the Right. Next bolt about 10-12m up, quickly followed by another. Spaced trad gear in cracks to next bolt, then to ledge with chains on arete. 8m to final chains & top-out above.

Start: make your way along the narrow ledge right of Karma, at the initials "IFG", 7-8m above the ground.

Hard start, then easier up the slab to anchors.

NB: It is prudent to secure your belayer, given that it's a very narrow ledge about 8m off the deck. There is a small slot for gear next to the initials:

Grey Wall - 20200912_114224.jpg

All RBs.

15-20m down the slope from general belay area, initialed "BV". Shares an RB with black Munga (which trends left), then veers out Right. Very sustained climbing on friable rock. Save some strength for the top-out over the death blocks up to the chain around tree.

All FHs bar the 1 shared RB.

30m or so from the lh side: down the slope till you arrive at the prominent rib:

1. 12m 18 - Climb using the inside corner to a belay point (belay tree now gone, almost 50yrs on).

2. 31m 18 - Manky rock, then easy climbing to top.

3. 24m - easy climbing/scrambling to safe walk-off.

(Original RURP description)

NB: This route was done back in the day when 40m ropes were the only ones available. One could, in theory, run the whole lot together with smart management of one's runners.

Start: 20m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, in front of a large spotted gum.

1. 40m 18 Up heading towards 3rd corner Right of the Hourglass pillar, trend Right towards crack, then Left to belay on low angle wall.

2. 20m Up 7m, then Left to cross roof/corner at break, then 10m Left to belay.

3. 20m Up Right past water streak, then up Left to iron bark & belay on ledge.

Up the slope, right of the Frogmouth Cave. Crack & face climbing. The first bolt can be spotted from the ground.

"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.

1. 30m - Up, Left and up.

2. 37m - Start in back of cave, peg out under roof, then up the white line.

3. 15m - Last 15m free climbing.

"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress."

RURP July/August 1972

(unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.)

From RURP September 1971: "The East Face of Maroon, a perfect line where the light and dark rock meet."

1. 30m 17 Zigzag up easy blocks, etc., to a small corner niche. Up steep wall to a foothold belay ledge.

2. 30m 18 Up to overhang, left and up, then back right and up to a ledge with a small bush, up another 7-8m to a slightly bigger ledge.

3. 24m 10/M5 Free 6m, then follow nebulous crackline to a bivy under the headwall.

4. 24m M7 Follow the line to a sloping shelf, hanging belay.

5. 12m 10 Up with a peg for aid in lose blocks. Belay at foot of corner.

6. 30m 14/M3 Up corner to top of a pedestal. Aids in poor, rotten, crack, free to top, block belay.

"Gear: rurps, skyhooks, bathhooks, microhexes, and blades up to 1.5 angle (plenty of knives + a few crackers)."

Start: Head up & Right of the Deception II initials along a narrow, exposed ledge.

Take bolt plates.

1. 20m 17 7BRs - Follow the line of carrots up the broken face, one bucket at a time. (see photo of p1)

2. 35m 18 11BRs - From the belay, you can see a big round boulder on top of p2. Traverse far Right on verandah, passing a rocky outcrop. Start in open gully. Very similar to p1. Top out on the RH side, via the chockstone. Both pitches initialed + rap chains. (see photo of p2)

Unknown. Probably up the vertical face right of Meek and left of Boiled?

Right of Boiled. Left facing corner & cave. Straight up the corner on thin holds. Easier once cave is reached, bridge out of this (no gear) to top.

Very bold up the arete right of Jezebel. Hardly any pro worth speaking of, so prepare for a solo ascent. Fantastic climbing, though.

The ever narrowing crack just R. of Panic Run. Nice climbing to ledge, then bold to 2nd ledge (some spaced gear). Tricky mantle onto ledge. Finish up P2 of Panic Run.

Blunt arete, just R of Valkyrie.

Up Valkyrie for 4-5m on good gear, till you can step out R on small holds. Clip FH (2nd bolt on DS), up passing another 3 carrots, then small gear to top & chains.

Scott put in 4 carrots to protect this now classic route, receiving some criticism from Rob which lead to the naming of the route.

Still one of the best 18s around.

Up Thunderflash to 1st crux, then step R to Ready crack & up this to top. Avoids the nasty start on Ready.

2nd of the 4 cracks on this face. 1m r. of Thunderflash. Tricky & sustained start that leads to more sustained climbing. Pass the Willing & Able tree out on the right, to a hidden RB, then out right (crux) above an overhang, to the arete & top-out. Rap chains out left.

Broken crack 2m R of the blunt arete & FF&CP. Same start as for Masters Of War. Climb the broken crack with finicky gear, to 1st bolt (out right) on The Trevor Gynther Route, then head out left to sloping ledge, up the nice corner to chains on FF&CP.

This route is actually a condensation of pitches from separate routes by Rick & Rob. Pitch 1 is Rick's Yoni, after this, it morphs into Rob's Jug City and_?

5 pitches of (in reality) mundane climbing in a rather spectacular position.

1. 17m 15 - Off the flat rock (the "coffee table"), up the obvious crack & weakness left, to to ledge & trad belay.

2. 35m 17 - From the belay, you should be able to spot a small overhang with a semicircular waterstain beneath. The route passes right of this, then angle left towards a large belay ledge & DBB.

3. 42m 18 - A poorly protected, airy pitch, that ends in a hanging belay. Traverse Right, along the belay ledge a few metres, then angle up Right to join an obvious line of weakness. Continue up & over a slight bulge, trending Right to a hanging belay (nest of wires), at a small ledge. (NB: do not be tempted to head left into the big corner & off-width!)

4. 25m 17 - From the hanging belay, traverse Right a few metres, then angle up towards the prominent rock horn. Mantle onto the horn & avoid the manky vegetated groove by a juggy mantle onto the ledge on the Left. Continue trending up Right, to belay in a wide groove between a tree (?) & the wall.

5. 12m 10 - Exit over easy bulges until safe ground is reached.

Descent options:

A) Walk off from here: follow the watercourse up to the Saddle, then the hiker's track back down.

B) Rap back down.

Waterfall Wall - Waterfall Wall - abseil points

Traverse carefully (harness & long sling on), in Left over a large boulder to the carrot bolt on top. Clipping into this (bolt plate), traverse across the gap to the DBB rap station. Next DBB is about 45-50m on the face Left. Next DBB is about 30m on the large belay ledge. From here about 35-40m to the ground. (NB: the topo does NOT show the second rap point as it is not on the route.)

From the ledge overlooking Waterfall Wall (Grogan Wall), a bold traverse across the face of the waterfall to the outcrop on the otherside. Make your way up this to top. Do not attempt this climb after rain as the waterfall remains wet. A bold route through some mega-exposed territory.

(Description provided to me & shown on photo by the late Kevin Pearl.)

Thin finger crack Left of OBC. Up to same ledge as OBC & TB.

Obvious crackline with the tree growing out of it at 2/3 height. Tricky start to first gear. Somewhat vegetated, but technical crack climbing. Surmount the tree and up to the ledge above & rap off tree.

Climbing up a long crack 1" to 2" in width. A classic second pitch by going up the enclosed chimney.

On the wall, Right of BOTE, a tree at 30m.

1. Ascend the crack to the tree.

2. Continue with magnificent (easier) climbing up the enclosed chimney to top.

A blade & blocks mark the start. Up the crack system to a ledge, continue up to a body crack and tackle the jamb crack on the left side of the buttress to the top. 2 pitches of 18.

As per above.

"Even further Right of Tough Mamma is Hard Headed Woman 18, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

Only the very sick and twisted would repeat this pitch. Ramble up mank to the base of overhanging corner. Tricky bridging, exposure and suspect gear on loose and rotten rock gets the heart racing. Bowel-quiverring moves through the crux gains an extremely loose and dirty ledge. Very carefully up dirt and loose rocks to large TB. Scary stuff!!

The furthest line along the cliff (right when facing the cliff).

Mega four to five pitch multi up a king line in the middle of the Mount Edwards East face. Will be awesome with more traffic. Features one of the best pure splitter hand corner cracks around! Excellent rock quality other than some blocks that would require trundling and some thin pieces of rock. Half ropes recommended if combining pitches 2 & 3. Single rack to #4 camalot, recommended double cams + hexes if combining pitches 2 & 3.

Start approx' located at: (-28.014207, 152.545096)

1. 35m Start at the base of the mildly vegetated corner featuring a hand crack to the small tree to start. Some truly awesome moves involving crack and chimneying. Belay on large ledge with tree to sit on, belay in cracks.

2. 20m Up the corner crack with wobbly blocks on the inside of the crack. Up this for 5 - 8m then move left up ramp and push behind and past the small tree. Up the splitter corner crack to a stance with cave on the left. Cam belay in crack or combine with the third pitch for a mega line.

3. 30m A 3 star pitch on it's own. Climb past dead vegetation in crack (to be removed). Take a deep breath and punch through the relentless corner crack to a rest in a cave at 3/4 height. Continue up the crack to the roof. (There is a large somewhat secure but hollow block at this roof, be cautious of placing gear between it and the wall, would be good to get trundled at some point). Move out left onto the face and hanging belay in cracks or punch upward to the large tree.

4. 25m Push upwards from the tree and up vegetated chimneys, towards the right generally and belay on large ledge/wherever possible.

5. 30m Roped scramble to the top of the cliff