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Routes in Scenic Rim for selected grade

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Showing all 57 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Frog Buttress East of the access track
24 Plate Tectonics

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb with a number of technical sequences. Start up EK and step R off the ledge to the FH. Continue up past a second FH and then run it out a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green Alien). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Andrew Barry, 1983

Mixed trad 18m, 2
24 Boris And Natasha DS

Thin, fingery and reachy direct start to BAN. Not the greatest but worth doing if you're in the area. Up the face 2m L of MPFC, follow the bolts.

FA: Matt Hutton

Trad 22m
24 Swashbuckler

Micro-arete 2m R of FM. One lonely rusty FH.

FA: Chris Frost, 1990

Trad 5m
24 Keep Left

Brutal climbing, sustained and difficult. Crank up the smooth line, all sorts of lay-aways and locks are required to grunt up this one. Fiddly microwires and microcams protect the crux. Continue up to anchor on Fat Mattress.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Greg Child, 1978

Trad 25m
24 Impulse

A tricky start before the first gear up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978

Trad 18m
Frog Buttress West of the access track
24 Down With His Pants

Start just to the right of SA chimney. Up the arete and face following 3 carrots.

Stuart Camps and Gordon Bieske originally did the top crack in March 1983, called Runners are Nuts.

FA: Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1985

Mixed trad 20m, 3
24 The Gentle Lion

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face, beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

FA: Dave Faernley & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 12m
24 Worrying Heights

Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Be prepared for a run out crux. Finish up Piranha.

FA: Chris Peisker., 1979

Trad 30m
24 Ginger Bitch

A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip.

FA: Scott Camps, 1987

Trad 15m
24 Quietly Superior

Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD.

FA: Marty Beare, 1980

Trad 20m
24 Bitching and Back Stabbing

Start on the far L side of the little ledge of ML. Move up the front of the detached pillar passing 2 bolts on the way. Not too bad.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Frost & Darren Holloway, 1988

Mixed trad 12m, 2
24 Instant Karma

Bold and risky face climbing. Start 1.5m L of ME. Up a short crack to the rest at a rooflet. Flail up the desperate face through the bulge with not a whole lot of protection! The upper wall is a little easier and quite classy, although you might be such a jibbering mess that you don't remember.

FA: Scott Camps, 1984

Trad 25m
24 The Guns of Navaronne Direct Variant

Small, short and horrifically desperate. If you're keen for a change of scene, however, and have recently made out your will, this could be the one for you. Go straight through the roof, without going into Odin. Levitation abilities may be handy.

Trad 4m
24 R Bombs Over British Airways

Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins., 1983

Trad 30m
24 Cheshire Cat

Up the ledge left of VITS. Face climbing using the thin crack for protection. Very small gear required to protect the crux. At around 3/4 height climb right into the finish of Voices.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2008

FA: 2008

Trad 20m
24 The Last Ungreat

Serious climbing in an exposed and photogenic position. Start directly above BGWES, climbing the R side of the pillar that Angel Rider finishes on. Up the crack, then some very hard moves past the bolt to the top. Magnificent, but terrifying. Get off as for AR.

FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1984

Trad 15m
24 Gone and Forgotten

A very impressive onsight. Up the thin seam that splits the face 2m R of BGWES. Tendon-rupturing moves above RPs see you to a hard move at 4m. Continue up the line with classic moves and even better gear the whole way.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Trad 20m
24 Suicide City

Originally had a pillar in the initial corner and was graded 22. The pillar was pulled off by an overenthusiastic Dave Moss, the climb got significantly harder... and the grade stayed 22. The start is hard and unprotected for the first few metres, so if you don't want to hit the ground you can swing over from the Hollywood Rattlesnake abseil and preplace the first bit of gear. The climbing is really good - tricky, sustained and strenuous to protect, and deserves to be more popular.

FA: Rick McGregor. Re-established by Rob Staszewski., 1976

Trad 20m
24 R The Anti-From Direct

More scary than 15 horror films rolled into one. Bridge up the gap to a bolt. Wobble and crimp your way to a pocket (#3 RP needed). Up past a second bolt to a stance on the L arete. Follow the line of very shallow seams and cracks (yes, the gear is crap and the flakes brittle), to where the line merges with the original. Extremely bold and technically brilliant climbing by Kim Carrigan.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 25m
24 Serenade for Strings

Ballsy! A direct start for the variant finish of NP (can anyone else spell contrived?). Start up DO for about 8m until it is possible to step L on micro holds out to the arete. From here, excellent positions and movement are encountered as you climb up past 2 bolts. Continue to the variant finish of NP (remember the wasps!).

FA: Scott Camps & Richard Henderson, 1986

Trad 35m
24 Licensed to Kill

Looks like it probably will! Climb up the pillar immediately R of ED. 3 bolts show the way to the top. Quite a serious and technical lead.

FA: John Pearson & Gordon Bieske, 1986

Trad 22m
Flinders Peak (limited access) Summit Ridge Buttress
24 Hot To Trot

Slab (2 FH) to ledge. Climb leftwards from ledge up steep wall and arête, moving right from last bolt to the tree anchor. Classic mantle moves and an excellent position.

FA: Cate Webb & Kim Carrigan, 2002

Sport 30m, 7
Flinders Peak (limited access) The Secret Cave
24 Grandma Aragog's Boob

Really fun punchy little climb. Starts on the left side of the big hanging down boob/udder at the back right side of the cave. Stick clip the first bolt as a tumble down the slope will make the walk out very unpleasant.

Set: Alexander Turnbull

FFA: Alexander Turnbull, 6 Dec 2015

Sport 12m, 6
24 Sneaky Side Boob

Stick clip the second bolt of GAB, caress your way right at the 4th, some longer draws across the traverse help smooth things out as you respectfully fondle the anchors on Geriatric Acrobatics.

FFA: Dan Mackenzie, 25 Aug 2018

FA: Dan Mackenzie, 25 Aug 2018

Sport 15m, 8
24 Saxicoline

Steep climbing up and through the almost improbable (for grade 24) looking line that finishes at the top of the cave chamber. It overhangs a solid 12 meters but the good holds just keep on coming!

Set: ross ferguson

FFA: ross ferguson, 18 Sep 2015

FA: ross ferguson, 18 Sep 2015

Sport 20m, 10
24 Hilltop Hoods

Finishes at "Talking with the Tax Man" anchors.

Set: ross ferguson, 2015

FFA: ross ferguson, 2015

FA: ross ferguson, 2015

Sport 8m, 5
Flinders Peak (limited access) Sanctuary
24 Snatch

From standing belay either at the top of Lock Stock or just to the left, climb the easy slab up the corner then step onto the headwall and head up.

FFA: Alex Turnbull

Sport 25m
24 Apocalypto

An overhanging journey on the left end of the wall. Begin in the open orange corner. Stick clip high first bolt. Wrestle the fused block at half height to set up for pumpy moves to the final clip. Trend right to shared anchor with Blood Moon. Note: The fused block has been pinned and glued.

Sport 20m, 7
24 Blood Moon

NOTE: stick clip the high first bolt to start. Bouldery start to get established on the wall, leads to awesome crack fondling goodness and a pumpy journey to high anchor.

Sport 20m
24 Darkened Hero

Linkup. Adds a bunch of climbing to Yesterday's Hero by starting up Darklight for four bolts, then traversing right across the slab to join YH.

Sport 23m
24 Yesterday's Hero

Climb right side of first two bolts with C-22 then trends right through steep and bouldery ground to the higher anchor. Qualify for optional frequent flyer miles from last bolt to the anchors...

Sport 22m
24 It's Business Time

Climb the first line above the anchors on your left. Clipping bolt on the overlap and stepping left. Blast straight up the orange wall, technical moves on some of the best rock on the mount. Continues through the overlap and up to anchors right of the wombat hole. 60m to the ground from top anchors!

FFA:

Set: Rob Saunders

FA: Rob Saunders, Jul 2020

Sport 25m
24 Two Men Enter, One Man Leaves

Prominent line on the left end of the cave. Starting on the left face, climb into the upper cave and employ the dark arts in crack and off-width climbing, to levitate yourself into a position to clip the anchor at the lip. Stays dry in rain and back-jump to clean.

FA: Matt Fingleton

FFA: Matt Fingleton

Sport 15m
Mt. Greville Little Springfield
24 Bart

Another brutal little unit up the right hand side of the small roof.

Start: 1m left of Lisa, in behind the tree.

Sport 10m
24 Lisa

Stunning corner in the center of the crag

Very technical bridging up to the 3rd bolt.

Followed by scary and brutal face climbing.

Sport 13m
Mt Maroon The Graveyard Ridge
24 The Louisville Slugger

Start: In front of the small tree, around the corner, 8m up the slope, L of TDOOW.

Up the smooth over-hanging wall, following 8 RBs to chains.

FA: Herb Brandmeier (top rope), 2005

FA: 2005

Sport 15m, 8
Mt Maroon Nympho Buttress
24 The Nympho

One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.

  1. 27m 17 - Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

  2. 24m 24 - Start in L facing corner, then up R onto sloping ledge 12m up (gear), then out L over bulge (more gear), then up - follow the under-clinging flake out L to trad belay.

  3. 27m 22 - Continue up manky crack to top.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron (aided), 1969

FFA: Tobin Sorensen & Jon Allen, 1979

Mixed trad 78m, 3, 1
Mt Maroon Wedgie's Place Lower
24 A Place To Be

Up Super Bowl, then continue up the crack above.

FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988

Trad 15m
24 unknown-2

Up RH side of the shallow pillar.

FA: Scott Camps & Paul Tattersall

Sport 20m, 4
Mt Maroon East Face
24 Your Mom Told You So

The line of spaced carrots right of Phaedra's first pitch. The 3rd pitch starts right of Phaedra's second belay, and climbs the mixed corner right of P3 of Phaedra. P4 heads straight up.

FA: Scott Camps, 1980

Trad 120m, 4
24 No More Mr. Nice Toad

Start: As for The Anti-Christ.

  1. 27m 17 - Up the first pitch of The Anti-Christ then follow a shallow line of grooves and corners almost in a direct line from the Coconut Ledge.

  2. 20m 21 - Perhaps up to BB?

  3. 35m 24 - Possibly 2 bolts up to the very exposed summit slab?

  4. 20m 21 - 1 bolt to top?

FA: Paul Hoskins & evan bieske, 1987

Trad 100m
Mt Maroon The Bat Cave
24 Angstrom Arete

The left facing triangular slab, down left (100m) from the other routes.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, 1992

Sport 18m, 4
24 The Lost Wall

The blunt arete 2m Right of TBOI.

Up the blank wall, passing 3 FHs, then Right onto the arete, passing another 2 FHs.

Chain on wall behind finishing ledge.

FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1992

Sport 18m, 5
Mt Maroon Viewpoint Buttress
24 Thins

Blank face right of Tripitaka. 4 carrots up the blank face to the horizontal break, then easier climbing with some gear, passing a BR, then more gear to top. Rap off Tripitaka chains.

FA: Scott Camps & Matt Simpson, 1995

Mixed trad 35m, 5
Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Main Wall
24 What Makes A Man Say I Do

Was bolted, these have been chopped.

(The person who chopped the bolts has the philosophy that sports routes & trad routes should not inhabit the same cliff as bolts intrude upon the trad ethic.)

FFA:

FA: Andrew Horchner & Mark Plenderleith, 1995

Sport 45m
Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Speed Buttress
24 Wounded Bird

The smooth crack on blank rock, on the wall right of Velocette and back about 10m.

Queensland's first 24.

FA: Chris Peisker (Rick belayed), 1977

Trad 15m
Mt May Slopey Wall
V4 Fire starter

Sit start under the steep wall next to the slab shelf for feet- RH in Gaston jug and LH on barely there pinch. Sequential climbing up to a committing mantle. Down climb to get down when you are standing on the slab above. All the holds of the V2 are out.

Boulder
V4/5 Fed With A Silverspoon

Sit start on jugs in the crack and climb the slopered ledges. Finish on the lip matched on a triangle hold. Steeper than you think!

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, May 2020

Boulder 3m
Mt May Super Solaris Wall
V4 In Isolation

Start at the left side of the cave. Keep left and use small intermediate to get to a bomber pocket. Then either use slopers to bump to finish pocket or dyno to glory.

FA: Kwan Goddard Lee, Alex Waterhouse, Simon Odwyer & Paul Cochrane, 16 May 2020

Boulder
V4 The V4

Sit start in the corner 3 metres right of the V8 start. Rising traverse left through slopers then big moves on jugs to finish as per the V8. Handy warm up with some nice moves. Stay low through the start, ie don't use the huge slopers on top of the block

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2010

Boulder 3m
Mt May Waterfall area
V4 Leap of Faith

Climb straight up the vert face at the back of the watering hole to a small ledge, then there's only one way down. An awesome bit of 'deep' water soloing to escape the hot Summer days. Be vary careful trying in Winter I'm not sure how full the water hole will be without consistent rain.

FA: The Brave

Deep water solo 6m
Hamarney (Private Land) Main wall
24 The Little General

The first route you arrive at. Straight up through the steepness, trending left at the bulge, then back right once you make the mantle. Pump up the headwall to finish. Named after the developer's missus!

FFA: MK, 2012

FA: MK, 2012

Sport 20m, 8
24 Falling from Grace

The first line established at Hamarney. Stick clip the start as you are straight into the first powerful crux. Up over the head wall to a cruxy finish. The fifth and last bolt, is named Grace (if you get a chance check out the engraving on the hanger).

FFA: HM, 2012

FA: HM, 2012

Sport 20m, 6
Hamarney (Private Land) Kaos wall
24 Wailing Wanda

Starts 1m left of LL & STL, up the shaly face, onto good rock, through crux and committing finish

Set: HM, 2013

FA: HM, 2013

FFA: CV, 2013

Sport 17m
24 Barren Von Crapper

2m right of LL; a sustained line, which follows an awesome path of weakness through to the anchors

Set: HM, 2013

FA: HM, 2013

FFA: MK, 2013

Sport 28m, 13
MacKrag (Private Land)
24 My Pockets Hurt

Fun gymnastic climbing, featuring some unexpected pockets. Consensus seems to be 24, although a little easier than its neighbour.

Sport 18m, 8
24 Laidback Streaker

classy and engaging climbing up cool orange streak.

Sport 18m, 8

Showing all 57 routes.

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