Showing all 57 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Frog Buttress East of the access track | |||||
24 | ★★ Plate Tectonics
Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb with a number of technical sequences. Start up EK and step R off the ledge to the FH. Continue up past a second FH and then run it out a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green Alien). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish. FA: Paul Hoskins & Andrew Barry, 1983 | 18m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Boris And Natasha DS
Thin, fingery and reachy direct start to BAN. Not the greatest but worth doing if you're in the area. Up the face 2m L of MPFC, follow the bolts. FA: Matt Hutton | 22m | |||
24 | Swashbuckler
Micro-arete 2m R of FM. One lonely rusty FH. FA: Chris Frost, 1990 | 5m | |||
24 | ★★ Keep Left
Brutal climbing, sustained and difficult. Crank up the smooth line, all sorts of lay-aways and locks are required to grunt up this one. Fiddly microwires and microcams protect the crux. Continue up to anchor on Fat Mattress. FA: Kim Carrigan & Greg Child, 1978 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Impulse
A tricky start before the first gear up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade. FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978 | 18m | |||
Frog Buttress West of the access track | |||||
24 | ★★ Down With His Pants
Start just to the right of SA chimney. Up the arete and face following 3 carrots. Stuart Camps and Gordon Bieske originally did the top crack in March 1983, called Runners are Nuts. FA: Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1985 | 20m, 3 | |||
24 | The Gentle Lion
A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face, beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top. FA: Dave Faernley & Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 12m | |||
24 | ★★★ Worrying Heights
Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Be prepared for a run out crux. Finish up Piranha. FA: Chris Peisker., 1979 | 30m | |||
24 | ★ Ginger Bitch
A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip. FA: Scott Camps, 1987 | 15m | |||
24 | Quietly Superior
Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD. FA: Marty Beare, 1980 | 20m | |||
24 | ★ Bitching and Back Stabbing
Start on the far L side of the little ledge of ML. Move up the front of the detached pillar passing 2 bolts on the way. Not too bad. FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Frost & Darren Holloway, 1988 | 12m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Instant Karma
Bold and risky face climbing. Start 1.5m L of ME. Up a short crack to the rest at a rooflet. Flail up the desperate face through the bulge with not a whole lot of protection! The upper wall is a little easier and quite classy, although you might be such a jibbering mess that you don't remember. FA: Scott Camps, 1984 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ The Guns of Navaronne Direct Variant
Small, short and horrifically desperate. If you're keen for a change of scene, however, and have recently made out your will, this could be the one for you. Go straight through the roof, without going into Odin. Levitation abilities may be handy. | 4m | |||
24 R | ★★ Bombs Over British Airways
Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds. FA: Paul Hoskins., 1983 | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Cheshire Cat
Up the ledge left of VITS. Face climbing using the thin crack for protection. Very small gear required to protect the crux. At around 3/4 height climb right into the finish of Voices. FFA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2008 FA: 2008 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★★ The Last Ungreat
Serious climbing in an exposed and photogenic position. Start directly above BGWES, climbing the R side of the pillar that Angel Rider finishes on. Up the crack, then some very hard moves past the bolt to the top. Magnificent, but terrifying. Get off as for AR. FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1984 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Gone and Forgotten
A very impressive onsight. Up the thin seam that splits the face 2m R of BGWES. Tendon-rupturing moves above RPs see you to a hard move at 4m. Continue up the line with classic moves and even better gear the whole way. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Suicide City
Originally had a pillar in the initial corner and was graded 22. The pillar was pulled off by an overenthusiastic Dave Moss, the climb got significantly harder... and the grade stayed 22. The start is hard and unprotected for the first few metres, so if you don't want to hit the ground you can swing over from the Hollywood Rattlesnake abseil and preplace the first bit of gear. The climbing is really good - tricky, sustained and strenuous to protect, and deserves to be more popular. FA: Rick McGregor. Re-established by Rob Staszewski., 1976 | 20m | |||
24 R | ★★ The Anti-From Direct
More scary than 15 horror films rolled into one. Bridge up the gap to a bolt. Wobble and crimp your way to a pocket (#3 RP needed). Up past a second bolt to a stance on the L arete. Follow the line of very shallow seams and cracks (yes, the gear is crap and the flakes brittle), to where the line merges with the original. Extremely bold and technically brilliant climbing by Kim Carrigan. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 25m | |||
24 | Serenade for Strings
Ballsy! A direct start for the variant finish of NP (can anyone else spell contrived?). Start up DO for about 8m until it is possible to step L on micro holds out to the arete. From here, excellent positions and movement are encountered as you climb up past 2 bolts. Continue to the variant finish of NP (remember the wasps!). FA: Scott Camps & Richard Henderson, 1986 | 35m | |||
24 | ★★ Licensed to Kill
Looks like it probably will! Climb up the pillar immediately R of ED. 3 bolts show the way to the top. Quite a serious and technical lead. FA: John Pearson & Gordon Bieske, 1986 | 22m | |||
Flinders Peak (limited access) Summit Ridge Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★★ Hot To Trot
Slab (2 FH) to ledge. Climb leftwards from ledge up steep wall and arête, moving right from last bolt to the tree anchor. Classic mantle moves and an excellent position. FA: Cate Webb & Kim Carrigan, 2002 | 30m, 7 | |||
Flinders Peak (limited access) The Secret Cave | |||||
24 | ★★ Grandma Aragog's Boob
Really fun punchy little climb. Starts on the left side of the big hanging down boob/udder at the back right side of the cave. Stick clip the first bolt as a tumble down the slope will make the walk out very unpleasant. Set: Alexander Turnbull FFA: Alexander Turnbull, 6 Dec 2015 | 12m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Sneaky Side Boob
Stick clip the second bolt of GAB, caress your way right at the 4th, some longer draws across the traverse help smooth things out as you respectfully fondle the anchors on Geriatric Acrobatics. FFA: Dan Mackenzie, 25 Aug 2018 FA: Dan Mackenzie, 25 Aug 2018 | 15m, 8 | |||
24 | ★★ Saxicoline
Steep climbing up and through the almost improbable (for grade 24) looking line that finishes at the top of the cave chamber. It overhangs a solid 12 meters but the good holds just keep on coming! | 20m, 10 | |||
24 | ★ Hilltop Hoods
Finishes at "Talking with the Tax Man" anchors. | 8m, 5 | |||
Flinders Peak (limited access) Sanctuary | |||||
24 | ★ Snatch
From standing belay either at the top of Lock Stock or just to the left, climb the easy slab up the corner then step onto the headwall and head up. FFA: Alex Turnbull | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Apocalypto
An overhanging journey on the left end of the wall. Begin in the open orange corner. Stick clip high first bolt. Wrestle the fused block at half height to set up for pumpy moves to the final clip. Trend right to shared anchor with Blood Moon. Note: The fused block has been pinned and glued. FA: Matt Fingleton FFA: Matt Fingleton | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Blood Moon
NOTE: stick clip the high first bolt to start. Bouldery start to get established on the wall, leads to awesome crack fondling goodness and a pumpy journey to high anchor. FA: Matt Fingleton | 20m | |||
24 | ★ Darkened Hero
Linkup. Adds a bunch of climbing to Yesterday's Hero by starting up Darklight for four bolts, then traversing right across the slab to join YH. | 23m | |||
24 | ★★ Yesterday's Hero
Climb right side of first two bolts with C-22 then trends right through steep and bouldery ground to the higher anchor. Qualify for optional frequent flyer miles from last bolt to the anchors... FA: Rob Saunders FFA: Rob Saunders | 22m | |||
24 | ★★★ It's Business Time
Climb the first line above the anchors on your left. Clipping bolt on the overlap and stepping left. Blast straight up the orange wall, technical moves on some of the best rock on the mount. Continues through the overlap and up to anchors right of the wombat hole. 60m to the ground from top anchors! | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Two Men Enter, One Man Leaves
Prominent line on the left end of the cave. Starting on the left face, climb into the upper cave and employ the dark arts in crack and off-width climbing, to levitate yourself into a position to clip the anchor at the lip. Stays dry in rain and back-jump to clean. FA: Matt Fingleton FFA: Matt Fingleton | 15m | |||
Mt. Greville Little Springfield | |||||
24 | ★ Bart
Another brutal little unit up the right hand side of the small roof. Start: 1m left of Lisa, in behind the tree. | 10m | |||
24 | ★★ Lisa
Stunning corner in the center of the crag Very technical bridging up to the 3rd bolt. Followed by scary and brutal face climbing. | 13m | |||
Mt Maroon The Graveyard Ridge | |||||
24 | The Louisville Slugger
Start: In front of the small tree, around the corner, 8m up the slope, L of TDOOW. Up the smooth over-hanging wall, following 8 RBs to chains. FA: Herb Brandmeier (top rope), 2005 FA: 2005 | 15m, 8 | |||
Mt Maroon Nympho Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★ The Nympho
One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.
FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron (aided), 1969 FFA: Tobin Sorensen & Jon Allen, 1979 | 78m, 3, 1 | |||
Mt Maroon Wedgie's Place Lower | |||||
24 | ★★ A Place To Be
Up Super Bowl, then continue up the crack above. FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ unknown-2
Up RH side of the shallow pillar. FA: Scott Camps & Paul Tattersall | 20m, 4 | |||
Mt Maroon East Face | |||||
24 | Your Mom Told You So
The line of spaced carrots right of Phaedra's first pitch. The 3rd pitch starts right of Phaedra's second belay, and climbs the mixed corner right of P3 of Phaedra. P4 heads straight up. FA: Scott Camps, 1980 | 120m, 4 | |||
24 | No More Mr. Nice Toad
Start: As for The Anti-Christ.
FA: Paul Hoskins & evan bieske, 1987 | 100m | |||
Mt Maroon The Bat Cave | |||||
24 | Angstrom Arete
The left facing triangular slab, down left (100m) from the other routes. FA: Mark Plenderleith, 1992 | 18m, 4 | |||
24 | The Lost Wall
The blunt arete 2m Right of TBOI. Up the blank wall, passing 3 FHs, then Right onto the arete, passing another 2 FHs. Chain on wall behind finishing ledge. FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1992 | 18m, 5 | |||
Mt Maroon Viewpoint Buttress | |||||
24 | Thins
Blank face right of Tripitaka. 4 carrots up the blank face to the horizontal break, then easier climbing with some gear, passing a BR, then more gear to top. Rap off Tripitaka chains. FA: Scott Camps & Matt Simpson, 1995 | 35m, 5 | |||
Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Main Wall | |||||
24 | What Makes A Man Say I Do
Was bolted, these have been chopped. (The person who chopped the bolts has the philosophy that sports routes & trad routes should not inhabit the same cliff as bolts intrude upon the trad ethic.) FFA: FA: Andrew Horchner & Mark Plenderleith, 1995 | 45m | |||
Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Speed Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★ Wounded Bird
The smooth crack on blank rock, on the wall right of Velocette and back about 10m. Queensland's first 24. FA: Chris Peisker (Rick belayed), 1977 | 15m | |||
Mt May Slopey Wall | |||||
V4 | ★★ Fire starter
Sit start under the steep wall next to the slab shelf for feet- RH in Gaston jug and LH on barely there pinch. Sequential climbing up to a committing mantle. Down climb to get down when you are standing on the slab above. All the holds of the V2 are out. | ||||
V4/5 | ★★ Fed With A Silverspoon
Sit start on jugs in the crack and climb the slopered ledges. Finish on the lip matched on a triangle hold. Steeper than you think! FA: Jimmy Blackhall, May 2020 | 3m | |||
Mt May Super Solaris Wall | |||||
V4 | ★★ In Isolation
Start at the left side of the cave. Keep left and use small intermediate to get to a bomber pocket. Then either use slopers to bump to finish pocket or dyno to glory. FA: Kwan Goddard Lee, Alex Waterhouse, Simon Odwyer & Paul Cochrane, 16 May 2020 | ||||
V4 | ★ The V4
Sit start in the corner 3 metres right of the V8 start. Rising traverse left through slopers then big moves on jugs to finish as per the V8. Handy warm up with some nice moves. Stay low through the start, ie don't use the huge slopers on top of the block FA: Tim Nicholson, 2010 | 3m | |||
Mt May Waterfall area | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Leap of Faith
Climb straight up the vert face at the back of the watering hole to a small ledge, then there's only one way down. An awesome bit of 'deep' water soloing to escape the hot Summer days. Be vary careful trying in Winter I'm not sure how full the water hole will be without consistent rain. FA: The Brave | 6m | |||
Hamarney (Private Land) Main wall | |||||
24 | ★★ The Little General
The first route you arrive at. Straight up through the steepness, trending left at the bulge, then back right once you make the mantle. Pump up the headwall to finish. Named after the developer's missus! FFA: MK, 2012 FA: MK, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
24 | ★★★ Falling from Grace
The first line established at Hamarney. Stick clip the start as you are straight into the first powerful crux. Up over the head wall to a cruxy finish. The fifth and last bolt, is named Grace (if you get a chance check out the engraving on the hanger). FFA: HM, 2012 FA: HM, 2012 | 20m, 6 | |||
Hamarney (Private Land) Kaos wall | |||||
24 | Wailing Wanda
Starts 1m left of LL & STL, up the shaly face, onto good rock, through crux and committing finish Set: HM, 2013 FA: HM, 2013 FFA: CV, 2013 | 17m | |||
24 | ★★★ Barren Von Crapper
2m right of LL; a sustained line, which follows an awesome path of weakness through to the anchors Set: HM, 2013 FA: HM, 2013 FFA: MK, 2013 | 28m, 13 | |||
MacKrag (Private Land) | |||||
24 | ★★ My Pockets Hurt
Fun gymnastic climbing, featuring some unexpected pockets. Consensus seems to be 24, although a little easier than its neighbour. | 18m, 8 | |||
24 | ★★★ Laidback Streaker
classy and engaging climbing up cool orange streak. | 18m, 8 |
Showing all 57 routes.