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Routes in Scenic Rim for selected grade

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Frog Buttress East of the access track
28 Debrilla

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish at DBB rap anchor at the top of arete.

FA: Mike Law, 1988

Mixed trad 25m, 5
Frog Buttress West of the access track
28 Brown Corduroy Trousers

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1982

Trad 25m
Flinders Peak (limited access) The Secret Cave
28 Talking Smack About A Pretty Sunset

The extension to “Wet Jiggy”. Climb this (rethread at anchor) then straight up the face to a hands free stance beneath the steep headwall. Tackle a “board” styled boulder straight up to a wild mantle out, onto the ledge. As an old timer once said, “Talking shit about rock climbing, is like talking smack about a pretty sunset”.

Set: Jimmy Blackhall, Sep 2022

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Apr 2023

Sport 14m, 5
28 Dr Pepper

Start up 'LAMOP' to 5th bolt then go right 6 more bolts to Space Odyssey's anchor. A long pumpy route.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 21 Nov 2015

FA: Duncan Steel, 21 Nov 2015

Sport 25m
28 Event Horizon

Start as for the first 3 bolts of 'Entergalactic Ceiling' then branches left and up sustained head wall. Finishes at the anchor of Entergalactic Ceiling.

Set: Dan Gordon, Feb 2016

FFA: Sam Bowman, Feb 2016

Sport 14m, 7
28 Event Horizon - Outer Rim

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' blast off across the cheese block in space and then continue up 'One man space race' frothing the lactic delirium to glory. It's out there!

Take note on equipping EH to limit drag at the beginning. Although not going to anchor or kneebar it is a straight line out the roof.

Set: Dan Gordon & Alexander Turnbull

FFA: Rob Saunders, 27 May 2018

Sport 25m, 14
28 Grandmas Hard ass UFO

Start as for Event Horizon 1st bolt then follow the first bolt on the left into a boulder problem to reach the start of Grandmas Bad ass UFO this is to be followed to the anchors. Adds a ground up start with some interesting moves to a great Rick Helm Classic.

Set: Rick Helm, 20 Sep 2019

FFA: Jack Brown, 28 Dec 2021

Sport 9
28 Grandma's Garden Path

Quite a Journey! Linkup of Geriatric Acrobatics into GAB. After doing the first two cruxes of Geriatric at the double knees, go left across the face with a bit of power, a few long draws help with drag. Joins into the crux of GAB and then continues to its anchors.

FFA: Dan Mackenzie, 4 Nov 2018

Sport 25m, 11
28 The Valsalva Manoeuvre

In the grotto. Scramble carefully up to ledge belay. One for the boulderers. Short but steep R trending line out ceiling. Bust a Valsalva manoeuvre to reach the chains.

Set: Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, Mar 2016

Sport 8m, 6
28 The Funk

Three boulder problems stacked, Climb TVM and continue up the shared extension to the anchors of TS. Adds a 25 and a lot of value to TVM.

FFA:

Set: Kenny Walker

Sport 14m, 10
28 Flapperado

Climb up The French Connection, into The Watchtower and begin traversing left at the 3rd last bolt to Desparado's anchor (skip the last bolt of Desperado). An endurance affectiono’s main course!

Set: Alexander Turnbull

FFA: Belledonna Brown, 22 Aug 2022

Sport 32m, 15
28 The Watchtower

After climbing The French Connection keep climbing up the right most line of bolts. Hard moves into the roof lead to a boulder problem right at the lip of the cave. Mantle out of the cave to a hands free stance to finish the climb and take a well deserved victory whipper. Back jump to The French Connection anchors to clean.

Set: Radest, Alexander Turnbull & Andrew Lightfoot, Sep 2015

FFA: Troy McAndrew, 17 Sep 2021

Sport 30m, 15
28 One Eyed Undertaker

Climbs direct through the steepness into the crux of 'Song and Dance Man'.

Sport 16m, 7
28 The Austrian Alpinist

Just like the Austrian power house, Gery Unterasinger. Back to back “boltering” - “No Knees” crux into “Song and Dance Man” ’s crux. A memorial for the mountain legend himself.

FFA: Rob Saunders

Set: 22 Oct 2017

Sport 17m, 7
Flinders Peak (limited access) Sanctuary
28 Close to the Line

Climb the bouldery start and seam trending right to establish on the main wall. Follow the winding seam till it disappears high on the wall in a sea of microholds. Continue up the steepening wall to the final puzzle and clip the anchors on the lip.

FA:

FA: Rob Saunders

FFA: Rob Saunders

Sport 25m
Mt Maroon East Face
28 The AntiChrist
1 21 50m
2 28 40m
3 20 25m

On the East face down and right of the two rings at the Phaedra start. This is also where the slightly lighter rock subtly meets the darker rock. The line also leads up to left edge of bushy ledge about halfway up the face (a good landmark). Scramble up ledges to get to a belay spot below this weakness.

  1. 50m (21) Originally climbed as two 25m pitches, but for full value one long pitch is the go. Traverse right past large blocks to short flared corner. Up this and the obvious line of weakness above. Carefully follow path of least resistance and more gearistence. A tad runout in spots and two ropes required to reduce drag this pitch requires a crafty and confident leader. Belay at left edge of top of bushy ledge. Also the scene of a 50m fall by John Hattink running it out to the top ledge only to have two foot holds blow!

  2. 40m (28) A stunning pitch! Head up the obvious corner past a few old pegs and the small rooflet. Then up subtle cracked line toward the looming headwall. This pitch provides good though not excessive options for protection and progressively gets harder and steeper. A very aesthetic line splits the top golden headwall in the steepest and cleanest position on the face. The position in the middle of the face with plenty of exposure, a steady breeze, very tenuous moves and spaced gear make it a very memorable lead. There are also three BR's on this pitch leading up to the headwall (hangers required). The free ascent was led placing the gear ground up and it is graded for a lead in this style. Belay at the obvious stance with a peg and #0, #0.5 #1 cams needed.

  3. 25m (20) Head a little right and up large corner past bushes to the top of huge pedestal. Some softer rock and awkward sections make it a slow but straight-forward lead. Belay at huge blocks about 10m back from the top cliff edge.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett & Jon Oddie, 1971

FFA: Adam Donogue & Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Mixed trad 120m, 3, 3
Mt May Slopey Wall
V7 Don’t Ever Fade Away

Start just right of “Crawl Away” on obvious slopey rail, move straight up to gain the large horizontal slopey ledge that runs midway across the wall. Traverse this ledge far left using tricks- to get into T.C and top this out. Don’t let your arms fade away...

FA: simon moses, 2004

Boulder 9m
V7 Yesteryear

Sit start in vertical flake/corner feature. Powerful moves up to slopers, finishing matched on the horizontal rail- up and left.

FA: Liane Brown, 2002

Boulder 4m
Mt May Super Solaris Wall
V7 Skylark

Committing, tall- slab on the left of FOS. Most definitely a highball.

FA: Finn Bandiko, 2023

Boulder 9m

Showing all 19 routes.

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