Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Stand start matched on high crimp, move up through small holds to top out. Gentle on the flake.

Oliver Rickford

Opposite Ur move 2 move on the slab. Sit start Lh on blocky crimp on cavelet. Rh on crimp.

Sit start under steep blank wall. Big moves up. Only two moves but quite satisfying.

Oliver Rickford John Newby - 02.44

From the start of Tower of Terror, cross right to the crimp and finish of Crimp Three.

Squat/stand start matched on the slopy pinch, move left through small crimps to a large throw to the lip. Mind the drop.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start on edges of arete. Powerful moves up the left side of the steep arete.

Sit start on flakes, throw right to share holds of Critical Era, and up. Finishes on slab ledge.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start as Parallel Universe but venture left across sloping ledge to crimps and up.

Sit start further left on the right rising rocky ledge. Traverse right to the end of the ledge then traverse a short sequence of crimps to finish above Parallel Universe.

From the starting jug of Big arms little brain, power up with creative beta. This is also the finish for F'n Good Boulder Project.

Sit start under the hanging prow using a wide compression move to pull off the ground. Right on sloping edge, left on high positive edge. Crank through to the big ledge then finish straight up on ‘Crucifiction’.

Start as for ‘Crucifiction’ but at the big ledge, pull a big move up and slightly right past an openhanded edge.

From a low start under the overhanging prow, big move out to the sloping ledge, and an even bigger move up the arete to finish on the jug. Jump off.

Start as Space Control but after the first big move, traverse right and finish on large triangle shaped sloping jug.

Sit start Rh on ledge, Lh undercling. Pull on and move into the G Spot finish.

Sit start for Gakusei, small crimps and a big sloping slap.

False/crouch start Lh on good sidepull, Rh side crimp. Techy and powerful up the face.

Sit start on big jug on left side of boulder. Make your way up to top out next to the tree.

Sit start with LH on side pull, RH on large sidepull. Follow the rail to a exciting top out over the lip.

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB.

A linkup. Crank out the moves on the Mary Valley start and keep that train rolling through the Blackheath finish.

Start clipped into the 2nd bolt of Central to Blackheath. Reachy moves to the lip before powering up to the big rail next to the bolt. Work your way round and clip the last bolt under the roof before committing left through the crimpy slab traverse. Rejoins Blackheath for the last bolt and anchors.

Herbs hammer into the ring bolts blasting directly out of rooflet to obvious side pull block then top out.

Climb up the sharp arete on some cool pockets. Take a deep breath and get greeted by a insane, fun(type 2) lip boulder problem. The lip makes this a cool little route to try. The mono is not in, that is an old drill hole that needs patching. Originally bolted by G Page and Chucky. Many thanks to them for their hard work and vision.

Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness to break. Final sandy crack leads to anchors.

Start: Walk along ledge to access.

Stick clip first bolt, ruffle your feathers, spread your wings then ascend this 45 degree overhanging arete.

3 RB to mantle and top out trending Left

Sit start with Left hand undercling & small right hand sidepull. Head straight up the arete, avoid being tempted right at the topout. Beautiful compression problem.

Nick Foulds

Sit start matched on the crimpy rail, gain the slab by bumping through the sloping crimps with trickery then into the stand start.

Sit start deep in the hole using opposing side pulls. Avoid dabbing on the Cracked Boulder to the left.

Reagen Tieleman

Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line.

Climb Procrastiwailer but instead of finishing up it keep pumping across to Final Piece and continue riding the pump train to the anchors.

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

As for Pinocchio's Extension but when you near the top of Doctor Pinocchio keep heading right to Overseer.

Just down and left of the upper routes. Awesome rock!!

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting.

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Starts from the cave belay atop the second pitch of Trojan and the top of Four Seasons. Should give you grief. Slide out right of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up to powerful under-clinging and lay backing in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off.

Perfect rock and powerful movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux.

Climb Four Seasons then break right at the last bolt to reach hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and right of Trojan's cave about 8m). The Bends starts here. Reach up from under-cling to clip first bolt then leftwards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing left for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles.

Climbs through the airy featured roof into the mind boggling slab overhang corner. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Start 3m left of Acid. Bouldery start past 4 FH then joins Acid until it's second last bolt where it breaks right, heading up the corner feature past final FH to finish at Acid's chains.

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in The Lower Main Cliff just past Owl Pillar.

Stickclip the rightmost RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here at grade 22, but now continues leftwards with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor. Keep left at the second last bolt and stay on the line-of-most-resistance—breaking right through the corner feature is LSD.

Link up. Climb Acid to it's second last bolt, then head straight up through the corner feature that is the last section of BFI, passing a FH to final mantle. Avoids the cruxes of Acid and BFI. The antithesis to Idaho Sunshine.

1. Tough layback start up the corner just right of the aid route. Up stemming corner with increasing difficulty (many ring bolts), then overhang to jug. Tricky section to a right traverse. Steep wild section leads to a rest in a sandpit. Gritty head wall section leading to the aid routes arbitrary p1 belay but it doesn’t stop here in the middle of nowhere - keep climbing ! Go left to corner, then up using holds on the left arete until possible to traverse back right onto the aid line on sandy rock, up into the bathtub ledge. Clip high vertical chain anchor. Amazing pitch of climbing with mostly stunning rock and a little sand here and there. Take 20 draws and long slings.

2. Traverse right off the ledge following a sandy break (FH) to a tricky move back left to snag the first ring bolt. Crimpy kangaroo point style climbing for a handful of bolts, then a traverse right to a hands free rest beneath the bulge. Tricky moves through the bulge to a tenuous stance. Unless your talk dyno ! Then more tricky stuff on great rock to a shake out before finale which traverses left and up to a vertical chain under main roof.

Stand start above small scoop, left hand on pinch, right hand mono. Head straight up and then left. Mantle under large flake, then climb onto the very top of the highball to truly topout!

follow other route until you get to a small pinch, left foot into bad sloped foot hold and crimps (small amount of foliage), continue up into top out.

Big holds to a rare crimp crux, then super horns into the sky. Joins BLD at its final bolt.

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

Climb FIHP to anchor, and then take a step right and climb straight up the overhung stemming groove to rooflet. Above this make a move to the right onto crimps with bouldery, spacey moves awaiting above. Anchor shared with NIHP on right over the top of bulge.

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

Cleared for Take Off into the crux of Nuts, combines best of both routes.

Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015)

Starts just to the right of LCA. Climbs the exposed arete before heading straight up into the thin corner (don't climb left onto the massive horns if you want the full tick), finishing with a wild move to breach the shelf at the top. Belay from ground as for LCA.

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

Batman start to the anchors of Sideways Rain then head left clipping the last two bolts of Bring Back the Kneebar before continuing straight-up for another 5 bolts to the anchor.

Defunct (was the batman start to SO).

Batman start from 3rd ring bolt of EWNP. Climb officially starts from the two closest holds to the 3rd bolt (funky jam RH, layaway LH) long steep moves up and left to Space Oddity anchors.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

Starts up Spoonman. Once you hit the arete head left below Ironman to join Gladiator.

Links the start of Knifey Spooney into the finish of Wholly Calamity. Some great moves down low to an easier finish than Spoonman. Take a long draw for the bolt before Spoonman crux, and another long draw for the bolt above Screaming's horns.

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

Up to anchor of SI (600mm sling), then head left on tricky slopers before joining into the last part of Spoonman.

Traverse left across the blankness in the middle of screamings crux. Finishes up Spoonman. Fun.

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Climb Screaming Insanity, but instead of clipping anchor traverse right and join onto Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber.

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Starts up 'Eight Minute Abs' to first bolt then traverses left on flakes, finishes up 'Separation Anxiety'

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

Do Caught by the Fuzz and keep going over the roof above the anchor. Finish at the niche just under Kissing the Lip.

Climb Still on a buzz turn first roof and follow the right hand seam, 3 FH. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Climb HF but continue left into WOC and finish at anchor.

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Climb past full metal anchor to Crazy Horny's. Adds 3 metres of exciting hard climbing to full metal. Also has been done from the true north direct start, a hard 29 by Sam B.

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Stick clip FMT first bolt and blast straight up into the Pinch and Gaston, finish as for Who Grazed My Chevy or finish as for FMT at 28.

Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice.

Traverse out right and diagonally up the engaging slab to the base of overhung arête. Up, with some bouldery, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

Starts 2m R of the middle U-bolt anchor. A few tricky slab moves lead to some huge moves on mega jugs. Pass a few tastefully spaced FH's and boulder to the final headwall. The beautifully sculptured rock at the top resembles Coolum-esk features, power through three more FH's to a sting in the tail finish that will get your heart racing.

Some long slings will help alleviate drag.

Climbs Frequent High Flyers then continues through the roof and up. Open Project (Bring a shifter for the top, anchors are only finger tight.)

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Load up the crack, punch out roof and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Thin edges, a bouldery section, then quest to glory with exciting, but moderate, climbing through the exposed overhang.

The furthest R route on this sector, behind the rock arch. Climb wall to ledge in cave. Monkey up R side of scoop, power through sustained cruxy bulge, and up moderate headwall to the world’s end. Use long runners in cave. Harder than the original 24 since hold broke.