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Hochalmspitze

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Summary

The Hochalmspitze (3,360 metres above the Adriatic (11,020 ft)) is located east of Mallnitz in the Austrian state of Carinthia. It is sometimes called "Tauern Queen" (German: Tauernkönigin) as a counterpart to the "Tauern King", the Grossglockner.

Approach

From the Gößkarspeicher (1707m) via the forest road or cut-off to the Gießener Hütte (2215m). Continue via the Rudolstädter Steig, which leads to the Steinernen Mandln. At an altitude of about 2800 meters you leave the path and continue to climb pathlessly in the direction of the south pillar. Via the "Trippkees" you reach the foot of the south pillar.

Glacier equipment required.

Descent via Dettmolder Grat or Steinerne Mandl back to the Gießener Hütte possible.

Where to stay

Possible at Gießener Hütte (2215m).

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5-
2 4+
3 5
4 6+
5 5-
6 6+
7 6-
8 5
9 5
10 3

The route is about 50m to the left of the old south pillar route. The start is about 10m to the right of the lowest point, at a crack with one bolt. Follow the bolts afterwards. All belays are bolted, except the last one when you arrive on the ridge.

FA: W. Gugg, M. Haas, H. Bogensberger & R. Huber, 2005

1 5-
2 4+
3 4
4 4+
5 4
6 4
7 4+
8 3

The route is about 50m to the left of the old south pillar route. The start is about 10m to the right of the lowest point, at a crack with one bolt. Starts with the same pitch as Traumfänger.

Classic alpine route on the south pillar of the Hochalmspitze. All belays must be set up inidividually and most of the protection must be placed with cams/nuts.

FA: Kollnit, Kuchar, Raditschnigg & Wigisser, 1929

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

Author(s): Adi Stocker

Date: 2014

ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1

On the 44,000 meters of climbing researched for this book, epochal alpine milestones mingle with enjoyable new route creations. Climbing legends such as Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi and Heinz Zak comment on their passion for steep rock. Routes by climbing greats from long ago, such as Angelo Dibona or Hias Rebitsch, have been accurately recorded in line with modern requirements. There is also plenty of space dedicated to new routes secured with bolts by creative talents such as Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger and the author himself. 40 long routes with at least 20 pitches, where you can clip bolts in keeping with the spirit of the times, but sometimes also have to make do with rusty protection.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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