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Columbia Icefields

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Summary

The crown jewel of the Icefields Parkway, the Columbia Icefields contain everything from moderate snow and ice routes to world-renowned alpine routes.

Description

Located on the Icefields Parkway, but deserving of an area all to itself, the Columbia Icefields hold some of the testpiece alpine routes of North America, put up by a who's who of climbers from around the world.

Notable routes include the Andromeda Strain (Mt Andromeda), Grand Central Couloir (Mt Kitchener), Slipstream (Snowdome), and the prize of the lot - the imposing North Face of North Twin.

Despite the list of hard routes, the Icefields also contain great routes for all abilities of climbers - classic moderates include the Silverhorn and North Glacier of Mount Athabasca, Skyladder on Andromeda, and the many ski/walk ups from the plateau of the Columbia.

Access issues

As with other places in the National Parks, motorized access is prohibited (no helicopters or snowmobiles are allowed). Check with Parks as during the winter and spring seasons the Parkway may be closed for avalanche control.

Approach

Drive either up the Parkway from Lake Louise, or down from Jasper. Many routes require an approach up the heavily crevassed ramp of the Athabasca Glacier, or a long circuitous walk over Wooley Shoulder.

Where to stay

Many routes on Athabasca and Andromeda are climbed in a one-day ascent from the car; other routes may require a high camp on the icefields. Check with Parks Canada about required permits.

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Fri 2 Jun
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