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Yak Peak

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Summary

The striking slabby granite dome along BC Highway 5. Easy access and generally good quality rock has led to a number of routes being established up the southeast and northeast faces.

Description

This is definitely alpine granite, and as such you will encounter dirty cracks as well as loose and chossy sections. Those expecting clean Squamish-quality granite may be uncomfortable at times. However, those expecting and comfortable with alpine conditions will find a wealth of quality routes and unique terrain in a stellar setting. The views from the peak are spectacular.

Access issues

None. The area is frequented by recreationalists, with established hiking trails and relatively good flagging. Sufficient use keeps the major trails in useable condition.

Approach

Easy though long approach and longer descent. Park at the Zopkios brake check (washrooms available), then walk northeast along the highway until you can duck into the woods. Cross a boggy stream section (may be very muddy during spring run off or after heavy rains), then continue into the woods. Follow the trail system up until you reach a boulderfield. Crossing the boulderfield will bring you to the southeast face of Yak. The whole approach takes about 1 1/2 hours.

Alternatively, once you hit the boulderfield, skirt along it uphill and to the right, and follow a series of generally well-marked trails and slab sections which eventually lead around the back of Yak to the northeast face. A number of routes start there.

The descent trail from the peak follows a pretty obvious trail down from the top and along the northeast face, then links up with the aforementioned approach trail. Follow it back to the highway, then your vehicle.

Descent from the peak takes about 2 1/2 to 3 hours, and moves over some pretty awkward terrain. Be careful. In spring, the descent can be complicated by the presence of a hanging glacier in the saddle between the false and true peaks of Yak, so crampons and an ice axe may be helpful for the descent. By mid to late summer, the glacier has usually melted, greatly simplifying the descent.

Where to stay

Park at the Zopkios brake check. You can park all day and overnight for free.

Routes

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Grade Route

This route links the best parts of Yak Crack (lower pitches) and Reality Check (upper pitches). The character, rock quality and protection of the middle pitches (6 to 8) were greatly affected by rockfall a few years ago. You may encounter some rather chossy sections, while a few comfortable belays are now more like hanging belays. Pitch 9, the undercling/floating bridge, is truly incredible and well worth the effort. All anchors are bolted and were replaced in 2022.

First Five pitches of Yak Crack/Yak Check (as per McLane guidebook) p1: scramble/solo up 5.0 corner to low angle, gravelly slabs. Didn't see a bolted anchor for this pitch. p2: Either go up left facing corner to a ledge, or traverse to the right and go up a right facing corner to a ledge. Traverse to a bolted anchor just before the long dihedral. p3: go up steep flakes to gain the face of the large dihedral, and enter the 140m crack. Belay at bolts part way up the crack. p4: continue up the crack, pull through the bushes, and belay at bolts above the first set of bushes, p5: continue up the crack, which starts to get gravelly, to a second set of bushes and a chockstone. Continue higher to belay at bolts.

Rappel with double ropes. We were not able to link p4 and p5, so we belayed off the chockstone.

Climbs to the actual summit and not the false summit About 200m of bushwhacking / hiking / scrambling is required to get to the summit from the final bolted pitch. All anchors up to pitch 14 are bolted. If rappelling, 2 60m ropes are required.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

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Fri 2 Jun
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