Routes in British Columbia for selected grade

Out of Condition

the furthest left route on the Great Wall. starts ~40m to the left of the lowest point (Silk Road), use the midway anchors or Xanadu for second rappel

this climb is located on the far right side of the crag above a collection of boulders

this climb is located above Broken Sickle

the route right around the corner from Island Time

the route to the right of Star Happy

climb the prominent wide crack above Bedtime Story (trad to 6")

the route to the right of Sulphur Slab

right of Afternoon Delight

start to the right of fools gold climbing a long wide crack (optional multi Pitch) gear from 1 - 5

The obvious wide chimney. Either squeeze in below the horns or above. Great fun!

A popular intro to face climbing.

Longest of three unknown routes, just uphill from the other Reilly's rock routes. We guess 5.6 grade for all three routes? This is the rightmost of the three.

A dirty, broken crack 5m right of Saskatoon Pie

BD Cam .4-2, Mixed

Start right of Southern Cross but head left after spire

BD Cam .4-2, Mixed

BD Cam .4-3, Mixed

Blue bolts

Variety of alternate starts to 'Magic Carpet'. Some bolted, some take gear.

Starts up a dihedral with a crack at the back, then transitions to a broken arete higher up.

Warning: Gear can be hard to place.

Extremely well bolted easy lead. Ends on the ledge 3/4 up the wall.

Between Great Yellow Hope and Brown and Veiny at the upper Conroy's Castle ledge.

The obvious easy groove that runs up the middle of the crag.

SR up to 4

Climb the deep crack just left of High Boltage Line

Climb the left angling large crack to wrap rings at the top. The crack at the top is often filled with leaves during fall.

Quality climbing on the first half, leading to an overgrown crack and a mossy/dirty slab on the second half.

Last route on the right of the wall. Two possible starts - similarly hard. Great first trad lead.

A short route with a solid juggy climb all the way up.

Another nice warm up route

The standard route on Assiniboine was climbed by William Douglas and a strong team of guides. Christian Hasler had already descended the route two years before. Hasler was one of Whymper's guides from the Matterhorn, thirty-eight years earlier. (Chris Jones, Climbing in North America, 1976)(Randy Morse, The Mountains of Canada, 1978)

Gmoser's Highway ("mosers") is the start of serious terrain. I once watched some gnarly East Face candidates rappel the scary snow gully to climbers left, after using Gmoser's on the way up. They had huge packs. I don't recommend the gully. Instead, lower your big pack down the upper headwall, 30' of steep jugs (5.0) with a landing that might save you. The crux of the lower traverse is the less difficult, but more exposed. A roped fall could be very dangerous. Have the rack ready, even though a fixed pin may be found at the low end belay.

30km’s into and the route out is 32.5 kilometers and involves 2420 of vertical gained and 5500 feet of descending on the day.