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Squamish Buttress Mostly Trad climbing 12 routes in sector

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 199
  • Aka: Kashmir Wall
12
YDS
5.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a5.13c5.14a5.14c

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

Located left of the start of The Squamish Buttress (after the Apron).

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Guidebooks

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
5.10c ★★★ The Squamish Buttress Trad 210m, 7
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.10c
7 5.6

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

FA: Fred Becky, Henryk Mather & Don Claunch, 1959

FFA: Peter Charak & Joe Turley, 1979

2
5.10c ★ Good Samaritan Trad 61m, 2
1 5.10a 27m
2 5.10c 34m

This route has it all, from hand jams to fist cams, slot climbing, and delicate slab. you can use this route to link into P3 of the Squamish Buttress/ Butt Light

P1: climb a hand crack through a small roof to a slot chimney past a large block.

P2: smear up a thin right-leaning seam (small gear and nuts) to the base of a large block. traverse rightwards around the block to a steep burly finish.

FA: Evan Beatty, 2023

3
5.10a ★ Community Service Trad 30m

Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch.

4
5.11b ★ Cornered Rat Unknown 18m
5
5.12a ★ Progress Can't Wait Trad 45m
6
5.12a ★★★ Heatwave Trad 45m
7
5.12b ★★ Gemini Trad 45m
8
5.10c ★★★ Pan Tease Trad
9
5.11c ★★ Pan Tease Upper Trad
10
5.11c ★ Kashmir Sport 28m
11
5.9 ★★ Butt Light / Squamish Buttress light Mixed trad 190m, 7, 4
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.8
7 5.7

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010

12
5.14b/c Bladerunner Trad 3

FA: Pat Delaney & John Furneaux, 2000

FFA: Ben Harnden, Oct 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Squamish Bouldering Guide 4th Edition

Author(s): Marc Bourdon

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

Buy
ⓘ
Squamish Rock Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Buy
ⓘ
Vancouver Rock Climbing

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end
Buy
ⓘ

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Nearby Icons

5.9 ★★ Butt Light
5.10c ★★★ The Squamish Buttress
5.12a ★★★ Heatwave
5.12b ★★ Gemini

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