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Staircase

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 52

Seasonality

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Description

This wall is covered in horizontal cracks, providing mostly excellent gear and a lot of climbing that is pulling up from one horizontonal to the next.

It also has a wide, flat base, easy access to the top of the cliff up the right side, and a cable across the top of the cliff, along with a good selection of easy and moderate climbs, making this a favourite place for top-roping climbs and family outings.

Access issues inherited from Val-David

Climbing is well accepted at the park, though an access fee is required. As of summer 2018, this was $12/person/day -- though an annual pass is also available (which is free for local residents).

Approach

When the trail meets the Mont King cliffs, head rightwards along the base of the wall past the Vellot sector.

Descent notes

Lower-off anchors, or walk-off to climber's right.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Possibilité de finir dans la deuxième longueur de Bastard.

Climb a series of left-facing lay-back flakes past one horizontal crack to a second one. Traverse left past a dark streak to a light streak to belay right of a tree. Second pitch continues up rightwards from the belay.

Climb "Bastard" Until you see a bold on a face to your left. Finish at an anchor just above that bolt.

Start on some horizontal cracks left of the roof above the start of "Staircase", traverse rightwards gently rising until in the corner shared with "Staircase", go up to the roof, dodge it to the left, then pull back right above the roof then up trending rightwards initially.

Start below a large roof a few meters up, below a small roof about 2m up (that gets larger further right). Pull some hard moves up over the first roof, then up to the large roof. Traverse up and right under the roof, then angle up and trending slight rightwards for a bit, before going directly upwards to anchors.

After the 5.8 start, and 5.6 traverse under the roof, the rest of the climbing is 5.5.

Many variations on the start exist.

Easier start than staircase.

Straight up with Variation start.

FA: Paul Laperrière, 1997

Exposed, watch out.

Exposed, watch out.

The arete at the right-end of the main part of the cliff.

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Fri 2 Jun
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