Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 9th Sep 2020 - El Palenque | |||||||
Pared de Competición Pared de Competición | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Chivato y Miracon ¡Valla Combinación! | 20m, 10 | |||||
6b Hard | ★★★ No Aguanto una Mentira Mas | 26m, 12 | |||||
Wed 9th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Paredón de Josué | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★★ Mujer, Peligro y Placer | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6b+ | Reversible | 20m | |||||
6b | Economizando Baterias | 25m | |||||
6c | ★★ Por la Raja de Tu Falda | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Tarentola | 28m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ | Guajiro Natural | 25m | |||||
6c | ★★ Chan Chan de Ilusiones | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★★★ Calentando Baterias | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 9th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca | |||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Guajiros | 29m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b Hard | ★★ ¡Misericordia por Dios! | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Cubanitos en la Red | 24m | |||||
6b+ | ★ Puro Cubano pitch 1 | 25m | |||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Chao Pescao | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a+ Hard | ★★★ RM | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
7c |
Quien Dijo Miedo Habiendo Hospitales?
1
6c+
2
7c
| 28m | |||||
7c Hard | Na Pa Pié — 3 attempts | ||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Totisnao | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Vamo Allá | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6c | ★★★ Vamo Allá | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Milenio Wall | |||||||
5+ Hard | Chinata loca | 10m, 6 | Crap | ||||
6b | ★★★ La Llorona | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Guajiro Ecológico | |||||||
6a | ★★ El Fantasma de la Ópera | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Larga Right Wall | |||||||
6b | ★★ Papi | 29m, 12 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Chipojo | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ Tetas Mediterráneas | 29m, 15 | |||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Larga Left Wall | |||||||
6c+ Hard | ★★ Leche de Mipalo | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ Hard | ★★★ Mambises y Maulets | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Jaguayana | |||||||
6b+ Easy | ★★ Pikín | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c Hard | ★★★ Ana Banana | 23m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Esta muy buena
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Sat 29th Feb 2020 - Cayman Brac | |||||||
The Orange Cave Seahorse | |||||||
5.7 | Bananaquit - with Angel | 25m, 11 | |||||
5.11c 5.11c/d | ★ Flying the Colors - with Angel | 25m, 12 | |||||
5.12d | Anemone - with Angel | 30m, 15 | |||||
Mon 17th Feb 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Paredón de Josué | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Tarentola - with Sandra Samman | 28m, 8 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Calentando Baterias - with Sandra Samman | 25m, 7 | |||||
Mon 17th Feb 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ RM - with Sandra Samman | 25m, 6 | |||||
6b+ | Chimeneando - with Sandra Samman | 25m | |||||
Wed 12th Feb 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Jaguayana | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Ana Banana | 23m, 9 | |||||
Great route.
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6b | Bititi | 17m | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Pikin | 22m, 8 | |||||
Sun 9th Feb 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Guajiro Ecológico | |||||||
6a | ★★ El Fantasma de la Opera | 30m, 9 | |||||
6b | Muerta Blanca - with Tito (Luis) | 20m, 9 | |||||
Fri 3rd Jan 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Arista Filo de Cuchilla | |||||||
6a |
★★ Filo de Cuchilla (Filo de Cuchilla P2)
2
6a
25m
| 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did Marcelino... as my first pitch, then this.
Nice exposure, and it wasn't as sharp as I expected based on the guidebook. Perhaps the best pitch I climbed in Cuba. |
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6a | ★★ Marcelino Pan, y se Vino | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One fall at first bolt -- tried to go up the crack through the overhang (damn route description in book) rather than climbing right of that.
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Fri 3rd Jan 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Larga Left Wall | |||||||
5 4+ | ★★★ Disneylandia | 15m | |||||
Felt more like 5-5+? Maybe I was just tired?
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4+ 3+ | ★ La Via Mas Facil de Cuba | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 2nd Jan 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Torre Blanca | |||||||
5+ 5 | ★★ Eternos Jóvenes | 21m, 4 | Don't Bother | ||||
Hung on first bolt... not because I couldn't do it, but because I couldn't spot anything like a 4+ or even 5 sequence... and didn't want to go wrong with the long bolt separation and climbing through a jungle. After looking, nope, no sequence easier than about 5+.
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6a+ | ★★ Invernando | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky moves into the chimney, then just the physically hard work of a squeeze chimney.
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Thu 2nd Jan 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Punta Repaso | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Ojos Carmelitas | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
4+ | ★★ El Puso El Bolt | 31m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 2nd Jan 2020 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Muralla Pitú | |||||||
6a | ★★ Comiquita | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Mojaita | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 31st Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ RM | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd with rest at 2nd-last bolt. I think, though, I could get this clean if I ever go back.
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4+ |
★★ La Cuchillita (La Cuchillita P1)
1
4+
28m
| 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ended up climbing the first three bolts of the 6a to the left, then linking up into this. (Which was fine, since that ended up not overlapping the start with "Juegos de Niños" to the right. The start was about 5+, the rest of the climb and real start, fine at 4+.
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5+ | ★★ Juegos de Niños | 29m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
I'd have been happier with less rusty bolts.
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6a+ | ★★★ RM | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
After flying three times on 2nd-last bolt, lowered off.
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Sun 29th Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Torre Blanca | |||||||
5+ | ★★★ Psicología Infantil | 12m | |||||
Another climb that is a relief from the sharp rock.
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4+ | ★★★ En la Sombrita | 12m | |||||
Only 4+ if you use the two trees on the route -- if you avoid them, climbs closer to 5+.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Invernando | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
One fall -- started the chimney facing the wrong way.
This is mostly easy climbing, except for the section around bolt 3 -- clipping, entering the squeeze chimney, and a few meters before exiting the chimney. The rest is more like 4 climbing. |
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★ (nombre desconocido 2) | ★ Good | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Torrenado | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I like dihedral climbing, and this route is also a bit of a relief from much of the sharp rock around.
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5+ | ★★ Torre Blanca | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
Sat 28th Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Punta Repaso | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Ojos Carmelitas | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My favourite of the three on this wall, and perhaps my favourite route in the Ensenada.
Soft for 5+, though -- more like 5 -- unless you don't route-find very well. |
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Sat 28th Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Muralla Pitú | |||||||
6a | ★★ Pitú | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy going until the crux at the start of the tube.
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5+ | ★★ Mojaita | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
6a | ★★ Comiquita | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My favourite of the three on the wall.
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Sat 28th Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Torre Blanca | |||||||
4+ | ★ (nombre desconocido 1) | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed this thinking it was "Eternos Jóvenes", since it wasn't in the guidebook. Grade seemed about right.
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5 | ★★ Otra Pasta | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 27th Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Punta Repaso | |||||||
4+ | ★★ El Puso El Bolt | 31m | ★ Good | ||||
High end of 4+.
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5 | ★ El Repaso | 28m, 9 | Average | ||||
I didn't like this one as much -- and I found it noticeable harder than "Ojos Carmelitas" to its left.
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Fri 27th Dec 2019 - Mogote del Valle | |||||||
Ensenada de Raúl Punta Lider | |||||||
4 | Guides Route | 12m | Average | ||||
4 | Ratoncita Pérez | 14m, 4 | Average | ||||
4 | Cucarachón | 14m, 4 | Average | ||||
5 | ★ Dos Palmas | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
2009 guidebook gives this 5+, but it might be soft at 5.
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Wed 4th Dec 2019 - Jibacoa | |||||||
Calico Jack | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★★ La Caleta | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a | La Tiza | 20m, 10 | |||||
6b Hard | ★★★ Calico Jack | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a Hard | ★★★ Catalin | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 4th Dec 2019 - Jibacoa | |||||||
Panales | |||||||
7b Hard | ★★ Se Formo | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c | Tanden | 20m, 10 | |||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Jutia Dulce | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★★ Rikera | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★★ Picky Rincon | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 4th Dec 2019 - Jibacoa | |||||||
Cueva de la Virgen | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★★ Barbacoa | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5+ ~6 | ★★★ El Viejo y El Mar | 31m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5+ | Cross y Fition | 35m, 13 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Tabarish | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a+ | Ivan El Terrible | 33m, 15 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ La Jaiba | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5 | ★★★ Pagano | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Caipirina | 35m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
6c Hard | ★★ Bullshark | 25m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ Hard | ★★★ Perra de Sierra | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6b Hard | ★★ Cajio | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 4th Dec 2019 - La Habana | |||||||
Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro | |||||||
7a | Orejanita | 9m | |||||
7b Hard | ★★★ Monopinzon | 9m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6c | Tetica | 9m | |||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mortal Combat | 9m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a Hard | ★★ Salida Ilegal | 20m | ★★ Very Good |