A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Shadow Bing Constantine Dritsas Kai 循风(Jason) Ian 溫翊恩 Dave Scarlett Marc dM Bernii Jokep
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
格凸 Getu
222 in Area
- 1.1. Fish Crag / 鱼岩 18 in Crag
- 1.2. Left of Red / 红岩左侧 8 in Crag
- 1.3. Wawan's Cave / 娃娃洞 9 in Crag
- 1.4. Oliver's Crag / 奥利弗岩 17 in Cliff
- 1.5. Rastaman Crag / 拉死它们岩 9 in Crag
- 1.6. Pussa Yan / 菩萨岩 15 in Crag
- 1.7. White Crag / 白岩 12 in Crag
- 1.8. CMDI Crags / CMDI岩 15 in Crag
- 1.9. Banyang's Cave / 半羊洞 20 in Crag
- 1.10. Lazy Dragon Cave / 水洞 / 懒龙洞 12 in Crag
- 1.11. Flag Cliff / 旗墙 4 in Crag
- 1.12. Buddha Cave / 藏棺洞 / 祈福洞 11 in Crag
- 1.13. School Time / 上课时间 7 in Crag
-
1.14.
Great Arch / 穿上洞 60 in Crag
-
1.14.1.
Left Side / 左侧 37 in Sector
- 1.14.1.1. Valhalla / 瓦尔哈拉 / 英灵神殿 14 in Sector
- 1.14.2. Right Side / 右侧 23 in Sector
-
1.14.1.
Left Side / 左侧 37 in Sector
- 1.15. The Lower Arch / 穿下洞 2 in Crag
- 1.16. Miao Sword / 苗族刀 3 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. 格凸 Getu 222 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.676191, 106.255156
Arrive in China at an international airport.
Continue to Guiyang, capital of Guizhou province, either by plane or train. Guiyang is a city of two million people with a national airport, a train station and a bus station.
From Guiyang, you can take either a bus (the bus station is near the train station) or take a taxi directly to Getu (count on about 3 hours and a cost of around 1000 rmb). By bus, there is either a direct Guiyang - Ziyun (2 hours), or two buses (Guiyang – Anshun and Anshun – Ziyun, about 4 hrs). This takes five hours. From Ziyun, take the minibus that goes to Getu: about 45 minutes.
Getu is a small village at the end of a road where you'll find a national park with a symbolic arch through which the sun's rays pass. Once you get to Ziyun you will find people who know of Getu.
- 葡萄园休闲山庄
- 格井客栈 17785030570 下午6点前有饭吃 住宿50元一人
- 贵州格凸攀岩攻略——吃住行+结组线路
- 寻找失落的遗迹——格凸攀岩记
- 当然也可以选择租车住在紫云县城,吃饭住宿选择很多,物价很低:比如40块牛肉自助,开车约30-40min
summary
Spectacular limestone arches and walls.
description
Gétû Valley: To date 250 pitches have so far been opened. The climbing at Getu includes all facets, reliefs, styles and levels of difficulty, including 10 sustained multi-pitch sport routes from 120 to 250 meters, raging from 4+ to 8+. More than 15 sport climbing sectors have been established with everything from steep walls, slabs and caves featuring grades of 5a to 9a. 格凸河景区攀岩门票(需要签协议) 一个人爬一周(连续7天) 150元,只爬一天也是150(包含景区门票,车票,船票,蜘蛛人freesolo表演等),其他岩场不收费 Getu River Park Rock Climbing Ticket(Need to sign an agreement), 150 yuan per person for seven days, 125yuan per person per day,no charge for other rock sites
access issues
approach
All the crags in Getu are within walking distance from the main town and are generally visible from the main road. Crags that are in The Great Arch National Park will require the purchase of a visitor pass before entry into the park will be granted. Tread lightly through the local farms and villages when approaching the crags.
where to stay
ethic
Sports Climbing
history
From October 26-30, 2011, more than 600 climbers gathered with our team for Petzl RocTrip China. All participants discovered and enjoyed more than 250 brand new pitches on unbelievable limestone especially prepared for the event.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Zone A | ||||||||
Zone B | ||||||||
Zone C |
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Run On / 快跑
FA: Gavin Symonds | {FR} 6c | 18m, 6 | |||||
2 |
Darker Days 更黑暗的日子
FA: Gavin Symonds | {FR} 7b | ||||||
3 |
Walk On The Wild Side 狂野生活
FA: Andy Long | {FR} 7b | ||||||
4 |
★★ Hua Hua (Painted Flower) 小花花
FA: Toni Arbones | {FR} 7b | ||||||
5 |
★★ Le General Arrive a Pied par la Chine 步行到中国的将军
FA: Tom Collet | {FR} 7b | ||||||
6 |
★★ Gambei 干杯
FA: Tom Collet | {FR} 7c+ | ||||||
7 |
★★ Corazon de Melao 么姥的心
FA: Yann Ghesquiers | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
8 |
Les Boules de Geisha 艺伎的球
FA: Yann Ghesquiers | {FR} 7c | ||||||
9 |
★★ Wild Horse 野马
FA: Gavin Symonds | {FR} 7b | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ Hallowed Ground 地洞
略硬 FA: Andy Long | {FR} 6b | ||||||
11 |
★★ Qing Ming Jie (Tomb Sweeper) 清明节
FA: Andy Long | {FR} 6c+ | 32m, 13 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Pysgodyn Fawr (Big Fish) 大鱼
FA: Andy Long | {FR} 7a+ | 22m, 11 | |||||
13 |
★★ Spellbowner 魅力无限
FA: Gavin Symonds | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
14 |
Wonce Up Bossa 一旦登顶
FA: Gavin Symonds | {FR} 7a | ||||||
15 |
★ Sun On 日出
FA: Gavin Symonds | {FR} 6c | ||||||
16 | Secret Garden 秘密花园 | {FR} 7b | ||||||
17 | Running On Empty 空档运行 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
18 | Whan Bamboo 弯竹 | {FR} 7a+ |
1.2. Left of Red 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.662385, 106.243724
summary
Perfect rock and excellent climbing. Arguably one of the best crags in Getu.
approach
From Oliver’s Crag follow the same narrow road meandering uphill for about 10 minutes until it turns about 90° to the west at (25.660876, 106.243699) where you may find a small stone cairn at the right side of the road in front of a small corn field (which may be there or not of course). Go through this corn field straight up in the direction of the crag for about 15 meters where you should find the trail which brings you to the base of the crag from the right side in about 10 to 15 more minutes. The original sketch from the Petzl Rock Trip guide shows the trail leaving a few hundert meters further down the road but seems to be impassable now. 穿过大片的玉米地(中间种了橘子的那片),然后向右走一小段到山根,沿着山根一直向上就到了,虽然不远但有点陡还很滑(走完这段=充分热身)
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Zuo Bian Di Yi 左边第一
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 5c+ | ||||||
2 |
★ Er (Two) 二
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6a | ||||||
3 |
★★ San (Three) 三
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6a | ||||||
4 |
★ Si (Four) 四
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
5 |
★★ Wu (Five) 五
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6b | ||||||
6 |
★★ iu (Six) 六
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
7 |
★★ Qi (Seven) 七
Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ Clean Heel
There's a tree above the first bolt. 起步挂片上方有一棵树 Set: CMDI, 2011 | {FR} 6b | 80m, 4, 12 |
1.3. Wawan's Cave 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.661691, 106.246081
description
Up to 30m routes with a rack of 12 draws for climbing. Wawan’s Cave is a short, colorful, easy to get to cliff, with an extremely overhanging, pocket-filled section on the left, and a nightmarishly crimpy, (slightly) less steep wall on the right. When approaching or at the base of the cliff, be careful not to trample the very meticulously tended to vegetable gardens.
approach
Walk up to Oliver's Crag from the road side, then follow a trail up on the left hand side of the cliff. Turn left when able to, this will lead you along the cliff line to Wawan's Cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Mange tes Nouilles / 先吃面
Set: Mémé, 2011 | {FR} 7a | 12m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ Le Retour du Couscous 再吃北非糙粮
大点大钟乳,格凸路书上骑着钟乳的照片就出自此线,出了钟乳之后往左爬。 Set: Mimouse | {FR} 7a+ | 22m, 10 | |||||
3 |
Plus de Riz Caca Dur 加上卡卡硬米
Set: Mémé | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
4 |
La Bouze a Tom 汤姆有Bouze
Set: Tom Collet, 2011 | |||||||
5 |
★★ Le Retour du Pouss-Pouss 又见三轮车
Set: Mémé | {FR} 7b | ||||||
6 |
★ Ha! les Filles de Guiyang 哈! 贵阳姑娘
Set: Mimouse | {FR} 7a+ | 18m, 10 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ L'Emois du Vélo Chinois / 中国单车月
Set: Yann Estienne | {FR} 6b | 30m | |||||
8 |
★★ Kung Fu Klimbing 功夫攀岩
Set: Mimouse | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
9 |
★★ Le Retour du Baijo 再来一瓶白酒
Set: Mimouse | {FR} 6c+ |
1.4. Oliver's Crag 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.660099, 106.248534
description
The grading seems a bit out of whack with several routes either easier or harder than the grades suggest. The cliff remains dry during showers but very hot when the sun is out.
仰角大点风格,定级愉快,全天太阳,下雨可爬,车可以开到岩壁下,一条裂缝仿佛将整个山体分为两半一定要打卡的岩场。右侧有两块独立的岩壁,第一块右行15m,第二块右行20m从乱石堆上
approach
The crag is located by the side of the road and is easily accessible from the town by following the main road out of town until the cliff is visible on your right.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Zuo Bian Di Yi (First from Left) 左边第一
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
2 |
★★ Er (Two) 二
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 7c | ||||||
3 |
★★ San (Three) 三
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 7b | 26m, 11 | |||||
4 |
★ 大裂缝左边 / Left of Si(Four)
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 7b | 28m, 13 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Si (Four) 四
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 7a | 27m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Wu (Five) 五
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Liu (Six) 六
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | 5.12b | ||||||
8 |
★★ Qi (Seven) 七
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | 5.12c | ||||||
9 |
★ Ba (Eight)
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 6b | 23m, 10 | |||||
10 |
★★ Jiu (Nine)
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 6b+ | 23m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Shi (Ten)
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 6a+ | 11m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Shi Yi (Eleven)
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 7a | 11m, 6 | |||||
13 |
★★ Shi Er (Twelve)
Set: Olivier Balma & CMDI | {FR} 6c | 11m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Shi San(Thirteen)
Set: CMDI & Jack | {FR} 5b | 18m | |||||
15 |
Shi Si (Fourteen)
Set: CMDI & Jack | {FR} 5b | ||||||
16 |
Shiwu / Fifteen
Set: Olivier Balma, 2011 | 5.11a | 12m | |||||
17 |
★ Shiliu / Sixteen
Set: Olivier Balma, 2011 | 5.10a | 12m |
1.5. Rastaman Crag 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.660791, 106.248201
summary
Rastaman Crag has a dozen or so magnificent, steep, pocketed lines: great moves at a moderate grade. Overall, a not-to-be-missed crag if you climb 6c!
description
定级友好,线路较长;岩壁左边早上不晒,右边下午不晒;沿着Oliver左边小路走右转直行就到了,其中为一条12线路难点是格凸少见的Slab风格
approach
Walk up to Oliver's Crag from the road side, then follow a trail up on the left hand side of the cliff. Turn right when able to, this will lead you across the back of Oliver's Crag and down into Rastaman Crag. Rastaman Crag is situated close to the road but direct access is steep and dangerous.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ So Mi Go So Den 好, 我走!
Same start with One Blood Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
2 |
One Blood 血脉相连
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★ Lord Have Money
Same start with One Love Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6b | 30m | |||||
4 |
★★ One Love 大爱无疆
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6b+ | 28m, 11 | |||||
5 |
★★ Babylon 巴比伦
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6a | 30m | |||||
6 |
★★ Give Thank n'Praise / 感恩
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6c | 18m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Zion / 锡安
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ I & I
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
9 |
★★ Jah Know Star 老天眷顾
Set: Stephane Husson | {FR} 6c+ |
1.6. Pussa Yan 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.657686, 106.252436
approach
Follow the main road out of town to a bridge (opposite Oliver's Crag) that leads over the river and up into the village in front of Pussa Yan. From here walk through the village and follow a road around to the right hand side of the wall. Turn left and negotiate your way through the farms and bushes up to the base of the wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lesson One 第一课 | {FR} 4b | ||||||
2 | Slab Beginning 斜板开始 | {FR} 5a | ||||||
3 | Super Crack 牛缝 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
4 | Ready for More? 再来点? | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
5 | Magic Chimney / 魔法烟囱 | {FR} 5b | 2 | |||||
6 | ★ Steeper is Better 越陡越好 | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
7 | ★ Rock Fascination 石头恋 | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
8 | ★ La Rampe a Guy | {FR} 5b | ||||||
9 | Zat's Hole Folks 哥们这是洞 | {FR} 6b | ||||||
10 | Surprise to the End 意外到底 | {FR} 5c+ | ||||||
11 | 16 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
12 | 17 | {FR} 6b | ||||||
13 |
玉女
可以垂直绳降,共有两个下降点 | {FR} 6a - b | 75m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Le Casse-tête Chinois
Warning Rock: there is no last chain Set: Daniel Dulac & Jean-Luc Jeunet | {FR} 7a | 180m, 6, 14 | |||||
15 |
金童
需要走路,起步点在山上;需要70m绳子,可以绳降下山 | {FR} 6b | 160m, 7 | |||||
|
1.7. White Crag 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.660149, 106.251601
summary
This charming little crag is composed of high-quality, pocket-covered rock. There are a number of easy to moderate routes.
description
The 5c+ routes on the outer limits of the crag zigzag between the trees, whereas the lines that head up the yellow-colored rock in the center are steeper and more sustained. Most are superb routes for the style and grade.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Zuo Bian Di Yi (First from Left)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a | ||||
2 |
★★ Er (Two)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a | ||||
3 |
★★ San (Three)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a | ||||
4 |
★ Si (Four)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a | 28m | |||
5 |
★ Wu (Five)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a | 27m | |||
6 |
★★ Liu (Six)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6b | 25m | |||
7 |
★★ Qi (Seven)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 7a | 30m | |||
8 |
★★★ Ba (Eight)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 7b | ||||
9 |
★★ Jiu (Nine)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6b | ||||
10 |
★★ Shi (Ten)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
11 |
Shi Yi (Eleven)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a | ||||
12 |
Shi Er (Twelve)
Set: Olivier Balma & tCMDI trainees, 2008 | {FR} 6a |
1.8. CMDI Crags 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.659081, 106.253910
approach
Follow the main road out of town to a bridge (opposite Oliver's Crag) that leads over the river and up into the village in front of Pussa Yan. From here walk through the village and follow a road around to the right hand side of Pussa Yan. Then continue along the road a little further until you are able to scramble up towards the cliff between the two smaller CMDI crags in front of the main wall.
history
Oliver Balma discovered this cliff in 2007: “I was looking for something of considerable height but not too steep so that the CMDI trainees would be able to put up long, multi-pitch routes of reasonable difficulty. This 200 m high wall proved ideal!”
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Captain Hook 胡克船长
P4: 7a. P4bis: 7b+. Set: danieldulac & Andy Hedesh, 2011 | FR:7b | 200m, 7, 15 | |||||
2 |
★★ No Name
Warning Fixed Gear: 保护站需要补梅陇锁 Set: Oliver Balma & CMDI | FR:6c+ | 180m, 7, 14 | |||||
3 |
★ Blue Spirit 蓝魅
Climb China guidebook claims pitch grades are 5b, 5c, 5a, 5a, 6a, 5a, however pitch 2 is much more like the crux and pitch 5 is really more like 5b. After pitch 3, it shares a belay with the adjacent mixed trad/sport climb 'Wood Cutter 伐木工' , so be sure to take the left line of bolts for pitch 4. Set: CMDI | FR:6a | 180m, 6, 12 | |||||
4 |
Wood Cutter 伐木工
Set: Oliver Balma & CMDI | FR:6b | 160m, 7, 12 | |||||
5 |
★★ Bee Hive 蜂巢
Set: CMDI | {FR} 6b+ | 140m, 4, 12 | |||||
6 |
★★ Zuo Bian Di Yi
Set: CMDI | {FR} 7a | ||||||
7 |
★ Er (Two)
Set: CMDI | {FR} 7b | ||||||
8 |
San (Three)
Set: CMDI | {FR} 6c | ||||||
9 |
Si (Four)
Set: CMDI | {FR} 6a | ||||||
10 |
Go Japan 去日本
Set: CMDI | {FR} 5c | ||||||
11 |
Wudong Noodles 乌冬面
Set: CMDI | {FR} 5c | ||||||
12 |
Potato Salad 土豆沙拉
Set: CMDI | {FR} 6a | ||||||
13 |
Red Pants 红裤子
Set: CMDI | {FR} 6a | ||||||
14 |
Jiu (Nine)
Set: CMDI | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
15 |
Shi (Ten)
Set: CMDI | {FR} 6b+ |
1.9. Banyang's Cave 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.660509, 106.255884
description
This cave sitting a few hundred meters above the village of Banyang. and includes roughly 20 climbs ranging from 6a to 8b+. The cliff has two distinct styles of climbing: the left section is extremely overhanging, highly featured rock, but starting with the 9th route “Six Months Work”, the cliff becomes an overhanging crimpfest. The far right side of the cliff offers more moderate routes. In general routes are at least 30 meters long, although some are as long as 40 meters.
approach
根据 夜行人 提供的轨迹更新了 OSM 小路,整个接近是缓慢的上升,快到岩场有十几米比较陡的爬升,总体花费20-30分钟左右的时间。
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Abond Route 阿邦线 | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★★ Calf 小牛 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
3 | Flying Tufa | {FR} 7c | ||||||
4 |
★★ King Cobra 眼镜蛇王
Set: Sebastien Foissac, 2010 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Queen Cobra 眼镜蛇后
Set: Sebastien Foissac, 2010 | {FR} 7c | ||||||
6 |
★★ Confidence 自信
Set: Andrew Hedesh | {FR} 7a | ||||||
7 |
Free Max 自由的Max
Set: Martial Dumas, 2010 | {FR} 7c | ||||||
8 |
★★★ Can't Stop Rock'n Roll 摇滚不止
Set: Martial Dumas, 2010 | {FR} 7c+ | 35m, 14 | |||||
9 |
no name / 未命名
Set: Martial Dumas, 2011 | FR:8a | ||||||
10 |
Six Months Work 6个月的苦力
Set: Erwan KoB Le Lann, 2010 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
11 |
Loco de Noodles 我为面狂
Set: Axel Ballay, 2011 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
12 |
Bip Bip et Coyote 哔哔鸟和大野狼
Set: Axel Ballay, 2011 | {FR} 8b | ||||||
13 |
Ki Di Buzz 小屁孩的嘟囔
Set: Mickaël Fuselier, 2011 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Treblinka pour Diego
Set: Mickaël Fuselier & Axel Ballay, 2011 | {FR} 8b | ||||||
15 |
Kung Fu Panda 功夫熊猫
FA: Mickaël Fuselier, 2011 Set: Mickaël Fuselier, 2011 | {FR} 8b+ | ||||||
16 |
★★ Mémé Fukushima 福岛奶奶
Set: Axel Balay, 2011 | {FR} 7a | ||||||
17 |
★★ Fleur de Lotus 莲花
Set: Mickaël Fuselier | {FR} 6c | ||||||
18 |
★★ Hao Yan 好烟
Set: Axel Balay | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
19 |
★★ Naughty Papy / 调皮的Papy
Set: Mickaël Fuselier & Axel Balay, 2011 | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||||
20 |
★ Le Lotus Bleu / 蓝莲花
Set: Mickaël Fuselier, 2011 | {FR} 6a | 20m |
1.10. Lazy Dragon Cave 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.674105, 106.259416
description
一个全天阴凉的洞,旁边流水声很大,攀爬者和保护员沟通全靠默契。现在主要攀爬岩场右侧路线,线路比较脏,,但造型奇特,多3D型路线,是其他地方少见的风格,非常值得一爬。
Located less than 100 meters from the center of Getu, Lazy Dragon’s Cave was first bolted in April 2011 by the “Spanish dream team” consisting of Dani Andrada,Tony Arbonès, Oliver Lavoisey, and Andoni Perez. They put up difficult technical climbs composed primarily of slopers andpockets on the yellowish-brown wall alongthe river’s right bank. The approach, even when it isn’t right along a river that often experiences violent floods, is complicated, with many route starts using fixed ropes. Not a climbing area for the light hearted to say the least.
approach
Follow the path on the left side of the field just past the last hotel in Getu village. Continue down the path along the left side of the river to access the climbs on the left side of the cave, while the right side requires crossing the river to access.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Spiderman Returns 蜘蛛侠回归
Set: Andy Hedesh, 2011 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
2 |
★ Hunny Hunter
FFA: Eben Farnworth, 2011 Set: Eben Farnworth, 2011 | {FR} 6b | 2 | |||||
3 |
★★ Sunshine Day Dream 大太阳下的白日梦
FFA: Eben Farnworth, 2011 Set: Andy Hedesh, 2011 | {FR} 7a | 2 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Yixin Yiyi 一心一意
A little bit scary, start round the corner from the main climbing area an climb two pitches to the top of the wall. Good view from the first belay. FFA: Eben Farnworth, 2011 Set: Eben Farnworth, 2011 | {FR} 7a | 2 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Bambu 竹子
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet, 2011 | {FR} 8a | 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ Shepi (Snake Skin) 蛇皮
有点磨绳,快乐线,但不建议新手先锋 Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | {FR} 7a | 19m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Huan Ying Lai Dao Zhong Guo 欢迎来到中国
线路中一个接着一个的洞让人感觉在冒险,注意观察挂片走向,后边往左爬。起步和先锋保护都需要在线路下方的大石头上。 Set: Oliver Lavoisey & Toni Arbonés, 2011 | {FR} 7a+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
8 |
Bu Yao La Jiao (No Spicy) 不要辣椒
Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | |||||||
9 |
Rim Rim
P2 #project Set: Toni Arbonés & Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 6c+ | 2 | |||||
10 |
La Calavera 头颅
Set: Andoni Perez & Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 8b | 2 | |||||
11 |
La Tecnica de Peter Pank, Peter Pank的技巧
Peter Pank 是一本漫画 FA: Dani Andrada, 2011 Set: Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
12 |
★★★ Hasta la Campanilla 钟楼见
#sandbagged #硬线 Set: Oliver Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011 | {FR} 6c+ | 30m, 14 |
1.11. Flag Cliff 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.687110, 106.268671
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Red Flag 正红旗
FA: Gavin Symonds Set: Andy Long & Gavin Symonds | {FR} 7a+ | 2 | |||
2 |
★★ White Flag 正白旗
Set: Gavin Symonds & Andy Long | FR:6b+ | ||||
3 |
★★ Black Flag 黑旗
Set: Gavin Symonds & Andy Long | FR:6b+ | ||||
4 |
Pee Joy 情不自禁
Set: Marcos Costa | FR:6a+ |
1.12. Buddha Cave 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.686880, 106.268706
description
With regard to rock climbing, only the right and left entrances to the cave have been bolted. The roof and the back of the cave, in spite of the beautifully colored and sculpted rock, have yet to be developed, mostly likely due to, according to Dani Andrada, the fact that the rock is of mediocre quality at best。
history
The left side was bolted first, in 2010, with four very difficult routes. The right side went through two waves of development. According to Toni Arbonés, who knows a thing or two about putting up routes, these four-star routes are much more popular
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Going with Buddha 追随佛祖
Set: Guido Unterwurzacher, 2010 | FR:7c+ | ||||||
2 |
Brutal Style 暴力风格
Set: Dani Andrada, 2010 | FR:8c+ | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
Possible not Possible / 不太行
FA: Dani Andrada, 2010 Set: Dani Andrada, 2010 | FR:7a | ||||||
4 |
Possible not Possible extension / 不太行延长线
Set: Dani Andrada, 2010 | |||||||
5 |
Surprise Rice 惊喜大米
Set: Dani Andrada, 2010 | FR:8b+ | ||||||
6 |
★★ Rumble in the Jungle 丛林漫步
Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011 | FR:7b+ | ||||||
7 |
★★ No More Baijo 别再灌我白酒了
Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011 | FR:7a+ | ||||||
8 |
Polo in the sky 空中的马球
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | FR:7c | ||||||
9 |
Back to the Technology 回归技术流
Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | FR:7b | ||||||
10 |
Fei – Fly – Vola 飞了
FA: Toni Arbonés, 2011 Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | FR:8a | ||||||
11 |
★★ Sense sol 唯有感觉
Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 FA: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | FR:7a+ |
1.13. School Time 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.686755, 106.268850
summary
School Time, as the name indicates, is a crag with a handful of moderate routes that utilize the grey, feature slabs just before the left entrance to the Great Arch.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bird Song / 鸟鸣
Set: Gavin Symonds, 2011 | {FR} 6a | ||||||
2 |
★★ Razorlight / 剃刀之光
Set: Andy Long, 2011 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
3 |
Blade Runner / 银翼杀手
Set: Andy Long, 2011 | {FR} 6b | ||||||
4 |
School Time / 学校时光
Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | {FR} 6b | ||||||
5 |
Elephant Song / 大象歌
Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | {FR} 7a | ||||||
6 |
No Disrespect / 不得无礼
Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2011 | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★★ Nihao Wokepa! / 你好, 我可
p5 7c/8a Set: Toni Arbones & Marcos Costa, 2011 | {FR} 8a | 180m, 5, 15 |
1.14. Great Arch 60 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.686105, 106.270306
summary
Great Arch is a not-to-be-missed experience. The climbing here is demanding, often puzzling, but always technical and aesthetic. More than one hundred pitches from 5c to 9a just waiting to be climbed
description
15 quickdraws and 60m rope
1.14.1. Left Side 37 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 25.686198, 106.270306
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Abond route 阿邦线
Set: Abond | {FR} 8a | ||||||
2 |
Mi cosita Meona 我的小Meona
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet & danieldulac, 2011 Set: Andoni Perez, 2011 | {FR} 8a+ | 3 | |||||
3 |
La Rubia Flaca 苗条金发美女
Same top with second pitch of Corazon de Ensueno Set: Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 8a+ | 2 | |||||
4 |
★ 5 times Sta Linya 5倍于Santa Linya
Same top with first pitch of Corazon de Ensueno Set: Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
5 |
Corazón de Ensueño / 梦想之心
«BRUTAL ! INHUMANO !» Dani Andrada, a climber who ordinarily keeps his emotions to himself, is unable to find the words to express his enthusiasm for Great Arch’s exceptional potential. With brilliance and audacity Andrada rivals Daniel Dulac’s “La Voie du Milieu,” Stéphanie Bodet’s and Arnaud Petit’s “Lost in Translation,” Yann Ghesquiers’ and Tom Collet’s “Brazilian Fuse,” by putting up “Corazon de Ensueno,” perhaps the most overhanging route in the world… Enjoy! Alex Honnold & Felipe Camargo 二攀 Set: Dani Andrada, 2011 FFA: Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 8c | 240m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Lost in China 迷失在中国
Set: Guido Unterwurzacher, 2011 | {FR} 8b | ||||||
7 |
Powder Finger 粉指
Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011 | {FR} 8c+ | 2 | |||||
8 |
Polvo Tecnico 镁粉
Set: Dani Andrada & Yann Ghesquiers, 2011 | {FR} 8c+ | ||||||
9 |
Coup de Bambou 最后一根稻草
Set: Mickaël Fuselier FA: Gabriele Moroni, 2011 | {FR} 9a | 30m | |||||
10 | No Name (Right of Bambou) | FR:8c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Nudel Power 面条力量
Set: Andoni Perez & Olivier Lavoisey, 2011 | {FR} 6a+ | 12m | |||||
12 |
Skype Forever 永远的Skype
Set: Olivier Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011 | {FR} 5c | 12m | |||||
13 |
★★ Business in China 中国业务
Set: Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 6a+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Autoctono 自制力
Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011 | {FR} 7c+ | ||||||
15 |
Australian Supermarket 澳洲超市
Set: Guido Unterwurzacher, 2011 | {FR} 8b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
★★ Dunman 遁门
Good climbing on mostly sloping pockets. Shares anchor with Busines in China Set: Duncan, 2011 | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||||
17 |
★★ La Piscineta Cina 儿童泳池
Set: Dani Andrada, 2011 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
18 |
Alta Compresion 高度压缩
Set: Andoni Perez & Olivier Lavoisey, 2011 | {FR} 8b | ||||||
19 |
★ SAR or die 救援或死亡
Set: Olivier Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011 | {FR} 6a+ | 7 | |||||
20 |
Ain't no Sunshine 没太阳
Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
★★ Se Souvenir des Belles Choses 美好回忆
Set: Serge Casteran, 2011 | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
22 |
★ Kan Bu Dong 看不懂
Set: Aleksendra Przybysz, 2011 | {FR} 7a | ||||||
23 |
Variation 变奏
Set: Aleksendra Przybysz, 2011 |
1.14.1.1. Valhalla 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.686215, 106.269616
description
9a+ 454m
The route starts on the left, goes up, crosses the roof and end on the other side of the arch. The line is totally independent and doesn't cross any exisiting route.
history
Established ground-up though the roof by Edu Marin.
Valhalla, cielo de roca (2020) | Official trailer
Whole route FA by Edu on Mar 20, 2019.
YouTube Valhalla - Full Movie from YouTube Edu Marin
哔哩哔哩 Valhalla - Full Movie from YouTube Edu Marin
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pitch 1
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:7b+ | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Pitch 2
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:7a | ||||||
3 |
Pitch 3
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:8a+ | ||||||
4 |
Pitch 4
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:7c+ | ||||||
5 |
Odin's Crack / Pitch 5
Set: Edu Marin, Mar 2018 FFA: Edu Marin, 19 Feb 2019 | FR:9a+ | 35m | |||||
6 |
Pitch 6
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:8b+ | ||||||
7 |
Pitch 7
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:8a | ||||||
8 |
Thor / Pitch 8
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 FA: Edu Marin, Dec 2018 | FR:8c+ | ||||||
9 |
Pitch 9
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:8a+ | ||||||
10 |
Pitch 10
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 | FR:8b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Bifrost / Pitch 11
Set: Edu Marin, 2018 FA: Edu Marin, Jan 2019 | FR:8a+ | ||||||
12 | Pitch 12 / Valkirias | FR:8c+ | ||||||
13 | Pitch 13 | FR:8a+ | ||||||
14 | Pitch 14 | FR:8a+ |
1.14.2. Right Side 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 25.685964, 106.270120
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Everybody catch a cold 大家都感冒了
Set: Erwan Le Lann, 2011 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Full Body Massage 全身按摩
Set: Martial Dumas, 2011 | {FR} 7b | ||||||
3 |
Go to Hell 见鬼去吧
Set: Erwan Le Lann, 2011 | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
4 |
★ Chérie Chérie 亲爱的
P1 6c, P2 left 6b, P2 right 6b Set: Martial Dumas, 2011 | {FR} 6c | 2 | |||||
5 |
★★ Spicy Breakfast 辣早餐
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
6 |
★★ Chinese Men 中国男人
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | {FR} 7a | ||||||
7 |
★★ Elodie 爱老妹
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | {FR} 6b+ | 12m | |||||
8 |
★ Mateo Traverse 马提欧横移
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | {FR} 5a | ||||||
9 |
★★ Niu tou 牛头
Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011 | {FR} 6b | 27m | |||||
10 |
★★ King of Guano 粪王 / 蝙蝠粪之王
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | {FR} 6b | 25m | |||||
11 |
★★ Candide 老实人
Set: Martial Dumas, 2011 | {FR} 7a | ||||||
12 |
★★ Capucine 法国女星卡普辛
Set: Seb Foissac, 2011 | {FR} 7b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Sushisson / 寿司村
直上然后右拐,右拐前左边有一个多的没用挂片 Set: Gilles Crenn, 2011 | {FR} 6b | 22m, 10 | |||||
14 |
★★ Dragon Bolt Z 七龙钉
Set: Gilles Crenn, 2011 | {FR} 6c | 13m, 5 | |||||
15 |
★ J'ai Volé mon Ame à un Clown 小丑偷了我的灵魂
Set: Gilles Crenn & Serge Casteran, 2011 | {FR} 6b+ | 23m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★★ Chinese Girl 中国姑娘
Set: Serge Casteran | {FR} 7c+ | ||||||
17 |
★★ Drill Team 开线队伍
Set: Serge Casteran, 2011 | {FR} 7c+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★★ Patate Douce 红薯
Set: Arnaud Petit, 2011 | {FR} 7a | ||||||
19 |
Dancing with the Dust 与尘共舞
Set: Stéphanie Bodet, 2011 | {FR} 8b+ | ||||||
20 |
★ Ceramic House 瓷砖房
Set: Aleksendra Przybysz, 2011 | {FR} 6a | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Lost in Translation 词不达译
The first route put up in the fall of 2010. A spectacular and challenging line. Repeated by Yann Ghesquiers and Dani Andrada in the spring of 2011, a masterpiece so we’re told. Set: Arnaud Petit & Stéphanie Bodet, 2010 | {FR} 8a+ | 180m, 4, 16 | |||||
22 |
★★ The Brazilian Fuse
Named because of Marcos Costa, who daringly jugged the fixed lines left by his predecessors. An outstanding route for the grade, it should become a classic. Set: Yann Ghesquiers & Tom Collet, 2011 | {FR} 7b | 180m, 4, 14 | |||||
23 |
★★ Dos Forasteros en la Selva 森林里的俩陌生人
A big thanks to the first ascensionists for putting up a route for the average “mortal” climber. With a consistent rating from bottom to top, this is an outstanding climb. 建议使用80米的绳,线路微仰角,再加上很多横移,下降需要费点功夫。 Set: Olivier Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011 | {FR} 6c+ | 150m, 4, 14 |
1.15. The Lower Arch 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.685777, 106.267597
approach
Get dropped off 70 m from the platform on the right bank, and then easily scramble to a small ledge in order to reach a 12mm bolt 2-3 meters above the water depending on river level.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La Voie du Milieu / 觅乐之路
Climbing video - Voie du Milieu at Getu, China FA: danieldulac & Mathieu Bouyoud, 2011 Set: danieldulac, 2011 | {FR} 8b+ | 260m, 8, 20 | |||
2 |
Get Back Home 回家
单段最长50米 Set: danieldulac & Guy Abert | {FR} 7a+ | 130m, 5, 16 |
1.16. Miao Sword 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 25.694460, 106.242223
description
By heading to end of the road that runs along the river, you arrive at a well-preserved Miao village. Right next to the dwellings, a thin decent-sized monolith will catch your attention. This is Miao Sword.
history
In 2008, when Olivier Balma received authorization to put up routes on the valley’s fantastic rock formations, he was set on establishing climbs in the heart of the park. With the CMDI trainees, he put up these three easy routes on one of the most symbolic rocks of the region.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Zuo Bian Di Yi
Set: Oliver Balma & CMDI, 2008 | {FR} 5a - b | 25m, 10 | |||
2 |
Er
Set: Oliver Balma & CMDI, 2008 | {FR} 5a - b | 25m, 10 | |||
3 |
San
Set: Oliver Balma & CMDI, 2008 | {FR} 5a - b | 25m, 10 |