A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Miha Popovic Hayes vilda_hkvdf rick Pablo de la Paz Mitchell Canham jose luis fuentes Vitalii Fernando Hidalgo
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Mogote del Valle
207 in Crag
- 1.1. Jaguayana 21 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Cueva Larga 30 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Left Wall 14 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Right Wall 16 in Sector
- 1.3. La Yunta 4 in Cliff
- 1.4. Guajiro Ecológico 37 in Cliff
- 1.5. Pared de los Tormentos 2 in Cliff
- 1.6. Milenio Wall 11 in Cliff
-
1.7.
Ensenada de Raúl 20 in Crag
- 1.7.1. Muralla Pitú 3 in Cliff
- 1.7.2. Punta Repaso 3 in Cliff
- 1.7.3. Punta Lider 4 in Cliff
- 1.7.4. Torre Blanca 10 in Cliff
- 1.8. Arista Filo de Cuchilla / Razor’s Edge Buttress 5 in Cliff
- 1.9. Torre Menoco 3 in Cliff
- 1.10. Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca / The Cow’s Head Cave 49 in Cliff
- 1.11. Paredón de Josué / Vega de Crespo 17 in Cliff
- 1.12. Jaruquiño 6 in Cliff
- 1.13. Sector Geisha 2 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mogote del Valle 207 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.625017, -83.722584
If you rather aim for the cliffs on the right side (more northern side) hike down Calle Adela Azcuy Norte (passed the football field) in direction of Raúl’s Farm (you might see signs for Cabeza de la Vaca or Cueva de la Vaca). Aim for the obvious sectors once you pass Raúl’s Farm.
If you rather aim for the cliffs on the left side (more souther side) follow the main road in town in direction south until you almost exit the town and take a right (on to Sergio Dopico) where the main road makes a left turn. Follow this paved road for a moment. It will turn into a dirt road soon and then - at a farm house - into a single track trail. Pass left of the farm house (there might be a sign for Cueva Larga) and follow the trail to the respective sectors.
summary
The most popular and closest crag in Viñales with plenty of sectors.
description
Mogote del Valle is probably the first set of cliffs you will see when arriving in Viñales. It is located just a few minutes north west of the town. Its structure, rock and vegetation will remind you of the rocks near 'Krabi' in Thailand if you have ever been there. Mogote del Valle hosts the biggest amount of climbs in the Valle de Viñales in multiple cliffs and sectors. They range from single pitch climbs up to 3 pitch climbs and offer everything from technical and crimpy face climbing to steep tufa pulling in caves. Most of the cliffs are oriented south east and thus see sun till early afternoon, but of course there are exceptions. See the cliff and sector information for details.
approach
All of the cliffs and sectors in Mogote del Valle can easily be reached on foot. Approaches are typically flat and short but be prepared to walk under the sun. There are 2 main approaches from Viñales.
You might link from this farm house to Raúl’s Farm by following the dirt road to the right.
See the cliff and sector information for details on the approach.
Be aware that you walk and pass on farm land. Please be respectful and don’t trample on crops.
ethic
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.
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1.1. Jaguayana 21 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.619733, -83.720547
description
A shady but mosquito invested crag left of Cueva Larga. Most of the cliff is hidden by a big Jaguey tree that will also be your point of reference on the approach.
approach
Follow the approach for the southern sectors. Pass the farm house on its left and follow the left side of the fence. When you see a fence crossing on your right continue straight a bit more and take a left along the field. A better marked trail will lead right up to Cueva Larga but continue flat for about 150m until you reach the tree and the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Diana
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Reiniel Sosa, 2004 | 6b | 33m | |||||
2 |
Avalancha
FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2004 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
3 |
Mister Feo
FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2004 | 6c | 22m | |||||
4 |
Tubo de Roca
FA: Josué Millo & Adrián Pérez, 2004 | 6b+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
5 |
Arco de Josué
FA: David Ryan & Josué Millo, 2005 | 6b+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
6 |
Brutus
FA: Josué Millo & Adrián Pérez, 2005 | 7a+ | 22m | |||||
7 |
Lluvia de Meteoritos
FA: Josué Millo & Israel, 2005 | 6c | 20m | |||||
8 |
Aserejé
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Alberto Leivas, 2003 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
9 |
Rasta Crack
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 6b | 20m | |||||
10 |
¡Hay Mi Madre!
FA: Yarobys García & José Luís Pimentel, 2006 | 8a | 20m, 7 | |||||
11 |
Dulce de Coco
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2002 | 6c | 30m, 9 | |||||
12 |
Katja Me Punza
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 7a | 14m, 7 | |||||
13 |
El Salto de la Pelúa
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 7a | 10m, 5 | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
Catamarán
FA: Josué Millo & Reiniel Sosa, 2005 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Ana Banana
Climbs up the steep face just left of the corner on great pockets. Shares first bolt with Pikín. FA: Abel Pérez, 2002 | 6c | 23m, 9 | |||||
16 |
★★ Pikín
This route climbs the corner with nice laybacking up to the right wall. Shares first bolt with Ana Banana. FA: Abel Pérez, 2002 | 6b+ | 22m, 8 | |||||
17 |
Bititi
FA: Aníbal Fernández | 6b | 17m | |||||
18 |
Tiburón Siguato
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 6c | 6m, 4 | |||||
19 |
Príncipe Enano
FA: Abel Pérez, 2003 | 7a+ | 15m, 4 | |||||
20 |
Tacto Rectal
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Josué Millo, 2003 | 7a+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
21 |
Miseria Prieta
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Josué Millo, 2003 | 7b | 14m, 5 |
1.2. Cueva Larga 30 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.620534, -83.719371
description
The big plus of Cueva Larga is that it is in the shade all day, the minutes is that you miss all the views of the Viñales Valley as you climb in a narrow “cave”. Cueva Larga is actually like a super narrow canyon formed by two walls, Left Wall and Right Wall with a small stripe of sky above it. It offers technical and tufa climbing.
approach
Follow the approach for the southern sectors. Pass the farm house on its left and follow the left side of the fence. When you see a fence crossing on your right continue straight a bit more and take a left along the field. A well marked trail will lead right up to Cueva Larga. The first routes are on the left and right outside the cave, to enter the cave climb down for about 4 meters (there are some iron bars).
1.2.1. Left Wall 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
This is the wall on the left as you enter the cave. Several routes are "outside" the cave (ie. on or before the large boulder/chockstone).
Easy climbs at entrace of cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Unknown 5
Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank. | 5 | 15m | |||
2 |
Unknown 5+
Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!). | 5+ | 15m | |||
3 |
★ La Via Mas Facil de Cuba
Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall. Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005. Also, seems to have been extended past the original tree anchor to a bolted anchor, and the extension seems harder than 3+, at least 4 maybe 4+. FA: David Ryan & Armando Menocal, 2001 | 3+ | 15m | |||
4 |
★★★ Disneylandia
At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors. FA: Josué Millo & Alison Andur, 2002 | 4+ | 15m | |||
5 |
★★★ Mambises y Maulets
The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge. FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001 | 6b+ | 30m, 12 | |||
6 | Calzo de Guagua | 7a | 30m | |||
7 |
Don Cojete de la Mancha
Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall. | 8a | 30m | |||
8 | ★★★ Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre | 7c | 30m, 14 | |||
9 | Maybe | 7a | 30m | |||
10 |
★★★ Contra la Espada y la Pared
Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt. | 7a+ | 30m | |||
11 |
Ocucta Obsessión
Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.) FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001 | 6c | 27m | |||
12 |
On Belay Hombre
Just left of Leche de Mipalo with brown hangers. Shares first last bolt and anchor with Leche de Mipalo. | 7a | 15m | |||
13 |
★★ Leche de Mipalo
This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets. | 6c+ | 15m, 6 | |||
14 |
Unknown Right
This route starts on brown rock just right of Leche de Mipalo and shares the anchor with its extension. | 7b | 25m, 10 |
1.2.2. Right Wall 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
This is the wall on the right as you enter the cave
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Por Arriba del Bolt
FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 7b | 14m | |||
2 |
Alcohólicos sin Fronteras
FA: Anibal Fernández, 2005 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 |
★★ Pelos de Rubia
FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 6a | 15m | |||
4 |
★ Baja y Chupa
FA: David Brasco, 2001 | 6c | 25m | |||
5 |
★★★ Tetas Mediterráneas / Esperando Para Vity
Climb the obvious guppies on the steep wall on the right hand side interior of cave, just before the big tufa. The overhanging section is followed by nice face climbing. FA: Vitalio Echazábal, 2001 | 6b+ | 29m, 15 | |||
6 | Unknown 1 | 6b | 30m | |||
7 |
★★★ Chipojo
The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor. Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner). FA: Aníbal Fernández & Fernando Paulete, 2001 | 6a | 30m, 14 | |||
8 |
★★ Papi
This route climbs the first big tufa on the right wall. Continue staright up once on top of the tufa. If you climb left you are on Chipojo. Nice tufa climbing down low and sharper water runnels higher up. FA: Paul Laperrière & Markus Leicht, 2004 | 6b | 29m, 12 | |||
9 |
★★★ Chipojito
Climb the second big column toward the ledge, trending right before you reach it. Once on the ledge, top out as for Chipojo. Long draws or a bit of back cleaning before the ledge will reduce drag. | 6a | 30m, 13 | |||
10 | Unknown 2 | 6b | 30m | |||
11 |
★★★ Contigo en la Distancia
FA: 2002 | 7b | 27m, 8 | |||
12 |
★ Fernando's Hide-a-Way / La Cuevita
P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c+ – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground. FA: Fernando Paulete, 2001 | 6c+ | 45m, 3 | |||
13 |
★★★ Jerry y Mirol
FA: 2002 | 7a+ | 27m, 8 | |||
14 | Pelos en La Orira | 6b+ | 15m | |||
15 | Hilo Dental | 6b+ | 15m | |||
16 | Unknown 3 | 6a+ |
1.3. La Yunta 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 22.620592, -83.719149
description
A small and not very much climbed (meaning overgrown) sector. It is actually the “outside wall” of the right side wall of Cueva Larga.
approach
Follow the approach for the southern sectors. Pass the farm house on its left and follow the left side of the fence. When you see a fence crossing on your right continue straight - the cliff in front of you is La Yunta.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La Yunta
FA: Jorge Luís Mederos, 2001 | 4 | 14m, 8 | |||
2 |
Jardinero
FA: Fernando Paulete & Troy Stephens, 2001 | 5 | 30m | |||
3 |
La Mulatísima
FA: Josué Millo & Armando Menocal, 2006 | 6a+ | 30m, 8 | |||
4 |
Negrita
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Fernando Paulete, 2001 | 6a | 30m, 9 |
1.4. Guajiro Ecológico 37 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.621156, -83.718508
description
This is the tall cliff with yellow / orange rock that you see from town. It offers single and up to 3 pitch climbs. Further right and separated by partially dense vegetation are additional sections with climbs. This sector sees the sun for quite long.
approach
Follow the approach for the southern sectors. Pass the farm house on its left and follow the left side of the fence. When you see a fence crossing on your right climb over the fence to reach the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ostraman
FA: Aníbal Fernández & David Brasco, 2001 | 6a | 45m | |||||
2 |
Habla Bien
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
3 |
Peregrinos
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 6c | 30m | |||||
4 |
Béjuco Colorado
FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
5 |
Vida Ingrata
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 7c | 30m | |||||
6 |
Vibración Interior
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 8a | 30m | |||||
7 |
Polvo Piojillo
FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 6c | 30m | |||||
8 |
Carcharodón
FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 7b | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★ Ranas Pelúas L1
FA: David Brasco, Rosa Catalá & Nivaldo Díaz, 2001 | 6c+ | 30m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★★ El Fantasma de la Ópera
FA: Alberto Leivas & Yarobys García, 2007 | 6a | 30m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★ La Vida es Bella
FA: Josué Millo & Jordi Tejero, 2002 | 7a | 30m, 8 | |||||
12 |
Muerte Blanca
FA: Yarobys García & Fransuá Bosmenier, 2007 | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
13 |
Psicosis
FA: Josué Millo & J. Blanco, 2002 | 6c | 3 | |||||
14 |
Salta Pa’lo Chapeáo
FA: Josué Millo & Adrián Pérez | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
15 |
Cusacutuzu / Fire Down Below
Is bolted now, was originally gear protected and named Fire Down Below. It's the first climb you see as you get to the crag up the obvious crack system. It looks good but turns into a filthy dirt fest after the first 5 metres. Worst climb I did in Cuba. FA: Frank Zacheri & Paul Tichner, 2000 | 6a | 19m | |||||
16 |
El Beso de la Avispa
FA: Martín Moline & Ariel Pascualetti | 7b | 20m, 9 | |||||
17 | El Hombre y la Tierra | 6c+ | 25m, 8 | |||||
18 |
Julia Merece
FA: Josué Millo & Julien | 6a | 25m | |||||
19 |
★★ Josué’s Route
Easy crack on sharp grey rock to the right of where the path enter the crag. Nice easy warm up. FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 6a | 25m | |||||
20 |
Avispicidio
FA: David Brasco & Aníbal Fernández, 2001 | 6b | 25m, 5 | |||||
21 |
Los Putre
FA: Yarobys García, Roilandy & Daniel, 2006 | 6a | 15m, 5 | |||||
Malaje Wall | ||||||||
23 |
Los Picapiedras
FA: Adrián Pérez | 6c | 15m | |||||
24 | Malaje | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
25 | Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas de Cariño | 6b | 25m | |||||
26 |
La Goropeza
FA: Yarobys García & Yandy, 2007 | 6c | 25m, 9 | |||||
Por Tu Culpa Wall | ||||||||
28 | Burdel de Sangre | 6c | 15m, 3 | |||||
29 | ¡Por Tu Culpa! | 7a | 20m | |||||
30 | Unknown 1 | |||||||
Zapatá Wall | ||||||||
32 | Dos Empotres | 6a | 15m, 5 | |||||
33 | No Te Vistas que No Vas | 6b+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
34 |
Zapatá
FA: Alberto Leivas & Pedro Luís, 2007 | 7a | 17m, 6 | |||||
Summertime Alcove | ||||||||
36 |
Cuando el Mal es de Cagar
FA: Alberto Leivas & Yarobys García, 2007 | 7b+ | 25m, 8 | |||||
37 | Mis Dos Spits | 6c+ | 30m | |||||
38 | Medio Bandido | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
39 |
Intrusos
FA: Yarobys García & Alberto Leivas, 2007 | 6a | 15m, 6 | |||||
40 |
Polaca de Oro
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Josué Millo, 2004 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
41 |
Summertime
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Yarobys García, 2004 | 7a | 30m |
1.5. Pared de los Tormentos 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.623511, -83.717897
description
This cliff is left behind Raúl’s Farm and offers only a few climbs. It sees sun most of the day.
approach
Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass through Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail straight towards the cliffs. Half way towards the cliff you will find a trail heading left.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Guao, Guano, y Espina | 6a+ | 80m | |||
2 | Clases de Fisuras | 6b | 10m |
1.6. Milenio Wall 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.624238, -83.718315
description
This is the orange wall left behind Raúl’s Farm and next to Pared de los Tormentos.
approach
Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass through Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail straight towards the cliffs and then left.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Living la Vía Loca
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Jorge Mederos, 2000 | 7a | 30m | |||||
2 |
Milenio
FA: Vitalio Echazábal & Aníbal Fernández, 2000 | 6c+ | 60m, 3, 1 | |||||
3 |
A Mulatazo Limpio
FA: Aníbal Fernández & David Brasco, 2000 | 7a | 30m | |||||
4 |
★ Huevos Verdes con Jamón
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Vitalio Echazábal, 2000 | 6c+ | 60m, 2, 13 | |||||
5 | ★★★ La Llorona | 6b | 30m | |||||
6 |
¡Hay Papito!
FA: David Brasco, 2001 | 7c+/8a | 30m, 10 | |||||
7 | Ay Mamita | 6b | 30m | |||||
8 | Cancelado | 6c+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
9 | Logic of Masturbacion | 6b | 26m, 11 | |||||
10 | Saca el dedo | 6c | 12m, 8 | |||||
11 | Chinata loca | 5+ | 10m, 6 |
1.7. Ensenada de Raúl 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.624809, -83.719904
summary
Ensenada de Raúl is a small, slightly elevated valley just behind Raúl’s farm.
description
Ensenada de Raúl consists of multiple smaller and isolated cliffs with mostly easy routes on grey rock and various orientations. It is a great location for beginners and initiation to rock climbing. On top of that the hike up offers nice views. The individual sectors are listed left to right (clockwise) as you enter the Ensenada de Raúl.
approach
Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass through Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail straight towards the cliffs. Climb over the fence and take a left following the good trail. Climb over another fence and hike up until you reach the meadow of the hidden valley.
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1.7.1. Muralla Pitú 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 22.624407, -83.719589
description
This is the wall that is almost completely hidden by vegetation on your left. Just take the first trail left, once you pass the first level of vegetation you will find the cliff easily.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Comiquita
Route on the left-side of the cliff. Has a lower (though still high) first bolt than the others. Climb up and onto the base of a palm tree, then up the semi-circle rain groove (dihedral) above to anchors. FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 6a | 20m | |||
2 |
★★ Pitú
Middle climb on the cliff -- climbs up to the right-most of the two rain grooves at the top of the cliff. Really high first bolt -- but can "borrow" the first bolt or two from "Mojaita" to reduce the run-out. FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2001 | 6a | 20m, 6 | |||
3 |
★★ Mojaita
Face climbing on the right-side; starts easy and finishes steeper. FA: Reinier Sosa, 2005 | 5+ | 20m |
1.7.2. Punta Repaso 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 22.624570, -83.720067
description
This is the obvious white wall on the left as you enter the Ensenada. Vertical climbing and morning sun.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ El Puso El Bolt
Climb the vegetated groove up the left-side of the main face. Be careful if lowering-off with a 60m rope, as it is a rope-stretcher. FA: Vitalio Echazábal & Carlos Pinelo, 2001 | 4+ | 31m | |||||
2 |
★★ Ojos Carmelitas
Climb the bolt line up the middle of the face, initially trending leftwards. Gets sharp in the final 1/3. FA: Neil Gresham, 2002 | 5+ | 30m | |||||
3 |
★ El Repaso
The bolt line up the right side of the face -- steep and sustained for the grade. FA: Vitalio Echazábal, 2001 | 5 | 28m, 9 |
1.7.3. Punta Lider 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 22.625070, -83.719967
description
The other obvious cliff in front of you as you enter the Ensenada de Raúl. Slightly more vegetated but nice and easy routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Guides Route / Lider
Climb the arete along the left side of the cliff. | 4 | 12m | |||
2 |
Ratoncita Pérez
Center of the face, shares the anchor with "Cucarachón". FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 4 | 14m, 4 | |||
3 |
Cucarachón
Right side of the face - shares anchor with "Ratoncita Pérez". FA: Reinel Sosa & Junior González, 2005 | 4 | 14m, 4 | |||
4 |
★ Dos Palmas
This route is about 10m right of "Cucarachón". | 5 | 15m |
1.7.4. Torre Blanca 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 22.625034, -83.719335
description
This cliff is hidden behind the trees on the right as you enter the Ensenada. Locating climbs can be a bit confusing, and the guidebook may have one or two in the wrong order…
A good crag for all day shade.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Eternos Jóvenes
This climb is in the jungle, about 30m left of "Torre Blanca". Be prepared to have to pull down the occasional thorn-vine if you climb this. The 2009 guide-book grades it "4+", but it is noticeably harder than this -- comparable to the harder 5+ routes in the Ensenada. FA: Scott Cole, 2001 | 5 | 21m, 4 | |||
2 |
★ (nombre desconocido 1)
There are two new (since 2009 guidebook) routes left of "Torreando". This is the further left of the two. | 4+ | 14m | |||
3 |
★ (nombre desconocido 2)
There are two new (since 2009 guidebook) routes left of "Torreando". This is the one on the right of the two. | |||||
4 |
★★ Torrenado
Climb the groove/dihedral left of "Torre Blanca". | 5+ | 14m | |||
5 |
★★ Torre Blanca
Climb the light grey pillar on the left of the cliff. The route finishes behind the top of the pillar, but one bolt was missing from the anchor – if still the case, rap off another route’s anchor on the left side of the pillar. FA: David Ryan & Paul Tichner, 2000 | 5+ | 15m, 4 | |||
6 |
★★★ Psicología Infantil
Climb the groove/dihedral right of the pillar. Anchor is to the right at the top, shared with "En La Sombrita". FA: Josué Millo & Adrián Pérez, 2004 | 5+ | 12m | |||
7 |
★★★ En la Sombrita
Follows the bolt line left of the Ficus tree -- but starting from the left is noticeably harder than 4+. Probably only climbs at 4+ if you use the trees on the way up. | 4+ | 12m | |||
8 |
★★ Otra Pasta
Climb straight up starting to the right of the ficus tree. FA: Yarobys Garcia & Josué Millo, 2004 | 5 | 17m | |||
9 |
★★ Invernando
Start at the base of Otra Pasta and move right up into the offwidth crack. You can either climb in the crack, or use the face to the outside. FA: Invernando, 2004 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 |
Cuerpo Colorado
Not really sure where this climb is.... | 5 | 6m |
1.8. Arista Filo de Cuchilla 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 22.624964, -83.718762
description
The prominent grey tower behind Raúl’s Farm with very popular 2-pitch routes. As the name says, the rock is sharp but the views are great. You may hike down on the back from the top if you want to avoid “rope issues” on sharp rock when rappelling.
approach
Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass through Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail straight towards the cliffs. Climb over the fence and take a left following the good trail. Climb over another fence and hike up as if going to the Ensenada de Raúl. You will see the cliff on your right while hiking up. Reach the base by hiking to the right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Freebies
FA: Fernando Paulete, 2001 | 4 | 30m | |||
2 |
Mi Chica Metálica
FA: Adrián Pérez & Fransua Bosmenir, 2006 | 6a | 40m, 2 | |||
3 |
★★ Marcelino Pan, y se Vino
The left variant of the first pitch of Filo de Cuchilla. FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 6a | 30m | |||
4 |
★★ Filo de Cuchilla
A classic for its grade. FA: David Ryan, Armando Menocal & Carlos Pinelo, 2000 | 6a+ | 55m, 2, 11 | |||
5 |
Hara Kiri
The right variant of the second pitch of Filo de Cuchilla. FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2001 | 6a+ | 25m |
1.9. Torre Menoco 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.625292, -83.717414
description
From far this looks like a densely vegetated cliff and you may actually only see the top of the cliff peaking out of the vegetation. The Torre is actually a detached tower with one climb on front and climbs “behind” it. Jungle experience is guaranteed.
approach
Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass through Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail straight towards the cliffs. Climb over the fence and continue straight passed the big Jaguey tree to the base of the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
El Asegurador Cuenta
FA: Josué Millo & Armando Menocal, 2005 | 4+ | 55m, 9 | |||
2 |
Atalaya
FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||
3 |
Siete Bolts para Mi Niño
FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 6b | 20m, 7 |
1.10. Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca 49 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.626119, -83.716643
description
This is the prominent cliff seen right above and behind Raúl’s Farm and one of the most popular sectors in the area. Left and right of the cave are a few moderate routes but the majority is steep tufa climbs with some of the hardest climbing in Viñales.
approach
Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail left of the small lake to the obvious cave. Hike up the concrete stairs to reach the cave and tunnel.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Piedra Mi CusiThese routes are on the far left buttress in the cave. All routes listed left to right! | ||||||||
2 |
★ Cara Dura
FA: Josué Millo, 2004 | 6a | 15m, 6 | |||||
3 |
Mi Cusi
FA: Josué Millo, 2004 | 5+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Feliz Cumpleaños
FA: Alberto Leiva, 2007 | 6a | 13m, 5 | |||||
Left AlcoveThese routes are in the tall alcove on the far left of the cave. | ||||||||
6 |
Rosca Izquierda
FA: Alberto Leiva, 2007 | 6c | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Vamo Allá
FA: Yarobys García & Maikel Novo, 2007 | 6c | 18m, 9 | |||||
8 | Saca Chispas | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
9 |
Virosis
FA: Josué Millo, Yarobys García & Alberto Leiva, 2006 | 7b+ | 15m, 8 | |||||
10 |
Echando Candela
FA: Josué Millo, Yarobys García & Alberto Leiva, 2006 | 8a | 20m, 8 | |||||
11 |
Morirse a Plazo
Start left of "The Wasp Factory" and finish left of the huge tufa. FA: Josué Millo, Yarobys García & Alberto Leiva, 2006 | 8a | 20m, 9 | |||||
12 |
★★★ The Wasp Factory
Start left of the block and follow the tufa line up to an anchor just right of the big stalactite. Great steep climbing on mostly good holds and a cool move over to the final tufa, one of the best lines in Viñales. | 7b+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
13 |
The Colony
This is The Wasp Factory with its extension. FA: Neil Gresham, 2002 | 8a+ | 30m, 15 | |||||
14 |
Esplendidos
FA: Tim Emmett, 2002 | 8a | 24m, 10 | |||||
15 |
The One Inch Punch
This is Esplendidos with its extension. FA: Tim Emmett, 2002 | 8b | 30m, 15 | |||||
16 | La Mierda | 6b+ | ||||||
17 |
La Playa - left / The Beach
The left variant for the second pitch. | 6c+ | 2, 10 | |||||
Right AlcoveThese routes are loacted in the right alcove (the first left of the tunnel entrance) and before you reach the left (tall) alcove. Routes are listed left to right. The rightmost routes start just right of the tree. | ||||||||
19 | Chimeneando | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
20 | ★★ Totisnao | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
21 | ★★ A Martillazo Limpio | 7a | 30m | |||||
22 |
Na Pa Pié
FA: Josué Millo, Alberto Leivas & Reiniel Sosa, 2002 | 7c | 2 | |||||
23 |
★ Kid Expresivo
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2002 | 6c+ | 27m, 7 | |||||
24 |
Quien Dijo Miedo Habiendo Hospitales?
FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 7c | 28m, 2 | |||||
25 |
★★★ RM
Starts left of the tunnel entrance and right of the next alcove, left of the tree. Big tufas and stalactites lead the way to the top ledge. Shares anchor with Chao Pescao. Great warm-up. (While it may not sound like a lot of bolts, they are where you need them and the falls are generally pretty clean. So a reasonable climb even if this is the opposite of a warm-up.) | 6a+ | 25m, 6 | |||||
26 |
★★ Chao Pescao
Starts just right of the tree and shares the anchor with RM. Easy climbing to a crux to exit on the slab. FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 6b+ | 25m, 6 | |||||
27 | ★ Puro Cubano pitch 1 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
28 |
★★ Puro Cubano
This route climbs the left edge of the tunnel entrance.
Lower down from the top to the stairs. Easier to clean pitch 1 in top rope. FA: Vitalio Echazábal, Armando Menocal & David Ryan, 2000 | 7a+ | 62m, 3, 8 | |||||
29 |
Maya
This is an alternative 2nd pitch for Puro Cubano and goes up straight from the anchor of pitch 1. FA: Abel Pérez & Loisbel Silvelio | 7c | 15m | |||||
30 |
★★ Cubanitos en la Red
Same start as Puro Cubano but head right after bolt 2. FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 6b+ | 24m | |||||
31 |
Unnamed 1
This is a second pitch of Cubanitos en la Red leaving the anchor towards the left. FA: Los Titos | 7b | 15m | |||||
32 |
Unnamed 2
This is a second pitch of Cubanitos en la Red leaving the anchor towards the right. | 15m | ||||||
Tunnel Entrance LeftThese routes are located at the tunnel entrance on the left side. They are listed left to right (going into the tunnel)! | ||||||||
34 |
★★ ¡Misericordia por Dios!
FA: Josué Millo & Reiniel Sosa, 2005 | 7b | 15m, 9 | |||||
35 |
Tiburones Viñaleros
Start on top of the concrete cube in the tunnel. FA: Ned Harris & Alberto Leivas, 2002 | 7c | 20m, 11 | |||||
36 |
Camino al Infierno
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 7a | 15m, 7 | |||||
37 |
Los Tres Mosqueteros
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 7b | 7m, 3 | |||||
38 |
Na Pa Nadie Pa
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 7b+ | 7m, 3 | |||||
39 |
Haista
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 6c | 8m, 3 | |||||
40 |
Candilejas
FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 6c | 7m, 3 | |||||
Tunnel Entrance RightThese routes are located on the right side of the tunnel entrance. They are sorted left (inside the tunnel) to right (outside the tunnel). | ||||||||
42 |
M-1
FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 8a | 9m, 4 | |||||
43 |
Golondrina
FA: Josué Millo & Raiquel Reyes, 2005 | 6b+ | 9m, 3 | |||||
44 |
Guiro que Te Escachas
FA: Josué Millo & Raiquel Reyes, 2005 | 7c | 9m, 3 | |||||
45 |
Anduriña
FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2005 | 8a | 9m, 3 | |||||
46 |
Chicharrónes
FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2005 | 8a+ | 9m, 4 | |||||
47 |
★★★ Malanga Hasta La Muerte / Taking the Bull by the Horn
The classical test piece of Viñales. Taking the Bull by the Horn was a top rope problem following the same line. FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 7b+ | 15m, 9 | |||||
48 |
Otra Mano “Pa” el Pulpo
FA: Josué Millo & Reiniel Sosa, 2005 | 7c | 14m, 9 | |||||
49 |
Jineteras a lo Suyo
On the far right side of the tunnel entrance behind the big block. FA: Martin Molin & Ariel Pasqualeitti | 7c | 15m, 9 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The StairsThese routes are located right of the stairs as you walk up to the cave. There is a concrete platform and a short trail to the right. | ||||||||
51 |
★ Unknown Short
A short route just left of "La Cuchilita" -- the left-most route starting of the landing -- with an anchor just below the ledge and tree. | 10m, 5 | ||||||
52 |
★★ La Cuchillita
This was initially a trad route but has been bolted. | 6a | 28m, 2 | |||||
53 |
★★ Juegos de Niños
Start on the gray, strongly featured rock. Climbs nice and homogenously up on sharp rock with good holds. Popular top-rope route - bolts are spaced a bit far as an initiation route for lead. | 5+ | 29m, 8 | |||||
54 |
★★ Guajiros
Start right of the broken tufa on the grey slab and go up straight. Anchor is on top left of tree. Shares first bolt with Guajiras. Climbs easy on mostly sharp rock to a crux high up. FA: Scott Cole & Armando Menocal, 2000 | 6b+ | 29m, 12 | |||||
55 |
Guajiras
Shares the first bolt with Guajiros but then branches out right on the orange wall. FA: David Brasco, 2001 | 6b | 31m |
1.11. Paredón de Josué 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.628300, -83.716695
description
This is the most developed sector on the Vega de Pelón side of Mogote del Valle. It is well shaded from late morning on and offers excellent climbing on pockets, tufas and some sharp rock.
approach
Follow the approach for Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca and pass the tunnel (it is short and can be done without light). Hike down the obvious trail on the other side. Once you reach the field, look for a trail that leads up left to the obvious cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Calentando Baterias
Starts just right of the big tree that follows the cliff. Excellent climbing on big holds to an anchor on the right flake. | 6a | 25m, 7 | |||
2 |
★★ Chan Chan de Ilusiones
Shares frist 2 bolts with Tarentola but then climbs staright up on the face. | 6c | 25m | |||
3 |
★★ Tarentola
Follow the crack to the right and then climb straight up. Shares first 2 bolts with Chan Chan de Ilusiones. | 6a+ | 28m, 8 | |||
4 | ★★★ Romeo y Regleta | 7b+ | 28m | |||
5 | Guajiro Natural | 6b+ | 25m | |||
6 | ★★ Por la Raja de Tu Falda | 6c | 25m, 7 | |||
7 | Economizando Baterias | 6b | 25m | |||
8 |
Reversible
Goes up just left of the big tufa. | 6b+ | 20m | |||
9 |
★★★ Mujer, Peligro y Placer
Start on the boulder and climb up just right of the big tufa. Pass left of the roof and follow rhe crack to the face and anchor. | 6b | 25m, 9 | |||
10 |
Mancha en Mi Expediente
Start right of the tufa and climb through the obvious low roof. FA: Josué Millo & Yuniesky Gonzales, 2002 | 8a | 30m | |||
11 | Pies de Homo Hábilis | 7b | 30m, 12 | |||
12 | Dame Luz San Valentín | 7a | 30m, 11 | |||
13 |
★★★ Melodía Celestial
Start on the boulder and climb the face to reach the big flake. Layback up on poor feet to reach the tufa and follow the slab to a final overhanging section. The last 2 bolts climb very sharp rock. | 6c | 30m | |||
14 |
Terapia de Miedo
This route climbs right of the big flake on the flat arete. | 7a+ | 30m, 12 | |||
15 | Cuando los Ángeles lloran | 7a | 30m, 12 | |||
16 | Rebentadera | 6b | 30m, 11 | |||
17 |
Sorpresa
This is an isolated route about 50m further right and up on the same cliff. Search the wide crack. FA: Josué Millo & Raikel Reyes, 2002 | 6b | 60m, 2 |
1.12. Jaruquiño 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.628402, -83.715493
description
This is the cliff just across the field from Paredón de Josué. It offers a few routes and has potential for many more.
approach
Follow the approach for Paredón de Josué but continue along the field and cross to the right using the well marked trail. Look for a faint trail leading right and up to the base of the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Titos | 6c | 15m | |||
2 | La Claudia | 6c+ | 25m, 10 | |||
3 | Periode Especial en Linea | 8a+ | 28m, 10 | |||
4 | Desesperado por el Encadene | 7c+ | 26m, 12 | |||
5 |
Nicotina
FA: Aníbal Fernández & José Luís Gómez, 2005 | 5 | 20m | |||
6 |
Escabiosis
FA: Aníbal Fernández & José Luís Gómez, 2005 | 6c+ | 25m |
1.13. Sector Geisha 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 22.629998, -83.717177
description
A small sector around the corner from Paredón de Josué with permanent shade.
approach
Follow the approach for Paredón de Josué but continue along the cliff and turn left to reach the sector.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pichulina San
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Abel Pérez, 2005 | 7b+ | 18m | |||
2 |
Shogun
FA: Abel Pérez & Aníbal Fernández, 2005 | 6b | 20m |