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Macocha Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Terenc Tomas Katrnak Alma

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Macocha 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Aid climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.373235, 16.729874

description

Permission is needed!

access issues

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

inherited from Czechia

ethic

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

inherited from Czechia
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pekelné otvory

FA: P. Weisser & R. Jurečka, 2009

4+ A2 Aid 4
2 Elektrický strop

FA: V. Pipal, P. Fadrný, J. Beneš & L. Benešová, 1972

5+ A3 Aid 120m, 6
3 Klenba

FA: L. Páleníček, V. Pipal, J. Unger & H. Myslivcová, 1970

5 A2 Aid 5
4 Pavoučí sítě

FA: P. Weisser & P. Brych, 1986

5 A3 Aid 150m, 6
5 Noc dlouhých nožů

FA: D. Janák, Š. Bartošovský, P. Vrtík, R. Jurečka, R. Valenta & P. Weisser, 2009

5 A2 Aid 2
6 Americké hrátky

FA: P. Weisser & M. Lidinec, 1997

5 A4 Aid 150m, 5, 5
7 Dlouhá noc

FA: P. Weisser & R. Jurečka, 2006

5 A2 Aid 140m, 7, 5
8 Příklepový strop

FA: P. Weisser, I. Straka, M. Šmíd & J. Nešpor, 1986

FFA: Adam Ondra, 6 Dec 2022

{FR} 8b+ Mixed trad 150m, 5, 7
9 Zimní království

FA: P. Weisser, V. Pipal, I. Šteflíček & K. Krecbach, 1987

5+ A3 Aid 2
10 Spodek Macochy

FA: F. Plšek, B. Kyněra & H. Pavlovský, 1946

6- Mixed trad 5
11 Jáma a kyvadlo

FA: P. Weisser, V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1984

8- Mixed trad 6
12 Sokolíky

FA: V. Pipal, V. Gregor & V. Šatinský, 1967

5+ A0 Aid 8
13 Vari - vari

FA: P. Weisser & P. Jonák, 2000

8 Mixed trad 6
14 Pozdní sběr

FA: P. Weisser & P. Jonák, 2008

8+/9- Mixed trad 5
15 Okupace Evropskou unií

FA: P. Weisser, P. Jonák & J. Nešpor, 2010

8- Mixed trad 5
16 Černá vdova

FA: P. Weisser, V. Wolf & M. Chaloupka, 2010

7 Sport 20m, 6
17 Cesta posledních objevitelů

FA: J. Kounický & V. Kalovský, 1967

5 A1 Aid 5
18 Kolpíkova cesta

FA: V. Pipal & V. Bělohradová, 1967

6+ Mixed trad 40m, 2, 2
19 Na smrk

FA: J. Beneš, J. Novák & J. Jelínek, 1982

6+ Mixed trad 50m, 2, 9
20 Kyselé ryby

FA: P. Weisser & V. Pipal, 1987

7+ Mixed trad 3
21 Varianta normálky

FA: J. Beneš & J. Novák, 1981

5+ Trad 35m
22 Narovnaná Macocha

FA: P. Fadrný & J. Unger, 1965

6+ Mixed trad 30m, 1
23 Nový vršek

FA: P. Fadrný & P. Koubek, 1966

7- Mixed trad 3
24 Dítě času

FA: P. Weisser, P. Jonák & V. Wolf, 2008

7- Sport 70m, 2, 18
25 Žlutá spára

FA: J. Beneš, V. Hrbáček & M. Rychlík, 1979

6+ Mixed trad 65m, 2
26 Vršek Machochy

FA: F. Plšek & F. Vlk, 1944

7+ Mixed trad 80m, 3, 18
27 Diagonála

FA: R. Hýsek & M. Grois, 1959

6 Mixed trad 2
28 Kolík na Bejka

FA: P. Weisser & D. Janák, 2009

8+ Mixed trad 2
29 Superdirettissima

FA: J. Beneš & V. Pipal, 1977

7+ Mixed trad 60m, 2, 3
30 Rajta tydli

FA: J. Beneš & J. Šustr, 1982

7+ Mixed trad 80m, 3, 2
31 Varianta Vifikundace

FA: P. Weisser & P. Rajf, 1982

7- Mixed trad 3
32 Vifikundace

FA: V. Pipal & P. Glosar, 1967

7- Mixed trad 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4+ A2 Pekelné otvory Aid 4
5 A1 Cesta posledních objevitelů Aid 5
5 A2 Dlouhá noc Aid 140m, 7, 5
Klenba Aid 5
Noc dlouhých nožů Aid 2
5 A3 Pavoučí sítě Aid 150m, 6
5 A4 Americké hrátky Aid 150m, 5, 5
5+ Varianta normálky Trad 35m
5+ A0 Sokolíky Aid 8
5+ A3 Elektrický strop Aid 120m, 6
Zimní království Aid 2
6- Spodek Macochy Mixed trad 5
6 Diagonála Mixed trad 2
6+ Kolpíkova cesta Mixed trad 40m, 2, 2
Na smrk Mixed trad 50m, 2, 9
Narovnaná Macocha Mixed trad 30m, 1
Žlutá spára Mixed trad 65m, 2
7- Dítě času Sport 70m, 2, 18
Nový vršek Mixed trad 3
Varianta Vifikundace Mixed trad 3
Vifikundace Mixed trad 4
7 Černá vdova Sport 20m, 6
7+ Kyselé ryby Mixed trad 3
Rajta tydli Mixed trad 80m, 3, 2
Superdirettissima Mixed trad 60m, 2, 3
Vršek Machochy Mixed trad 80m, 3, 18
8- Jáma a kyvadlo Mixed trad 6
Okupace Evropskou unií Mixed trad 5
8 Vari - vari Mixed trad 6
8+ Kolík na Bejka Mixed trad 2
8+ to 9- Pozdní sběr Mixed trad 5
8b+ Příklepový strop Mixed trad 150m, 5, 7
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