Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Eyguières Initiation | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Jaz attitude | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
5c+ | ★ Bombe humaine | ★ Good | |||||
5b | ★★ Traverse galinette | ★ Good | |||||
5c | ★ Delicatessun | ★ Good | |||||
5c | ★ Gratte thon | ★ Good | |||||
5b | ★ Et paul et moi | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Grande Face | |||||||
7a | ★★ A Trop Tater Ton Trou Tu T'irrites (ATTTTTT) - with gian, Beni | 30m, 10 | |||||
6a | ★★ Un jour sur terre - with gian, Beni | ||||||
Inkl Verlängerung Corps accords 7a
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6a+ |
★★★ Inesperance P1
- with
gian, Beni
1
6a+
| 120m | |||||
Fri 31st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Face de Rat | |||||||
7a+ | Heros Positif - with gian, Beni | ||||||
7b+ | L'entreprise de Mussonerie - with gian, Beni | ||||||
Fri 31st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Plein sud | |||||||
7a |
★★ Philou le matheux P1
- with
gian, Beni
1
7a
| 20m | |||||
6a | ★★ Zoé ma grenouille - with gian, Beni | 15m, 9 | |||||
5c | ★★ Joyeuse Mymi - with gian, Beni | 15m, 9 | |||||
Fri 31st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
La Cascade | |||||||
6a | ★★ Des Trous Encore Des Trous - with Matt King | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Down leading on second was a highlight. Super cool position. Never done so much traversing on a climb. Lead 1,3,5. Best be comfortable slabbing at the grade a long way sideways from your bolts. Lots of alternative anchors to alter pitch lengths or number of pitches if desired.
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6b | ★★ Des Trous Encore Direct - with Matt King, Capland | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a | ★★ Des Trous Encore Des Trous | 100m | |||||
So much traversing. P2 was spicy, down climbing is not a well practiced skill
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7a | ★★★ Ananda — 2 attempts | 25m | |||||
Fri 31st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Plein sud | |||||||
5c | ★★ Joyeuse Mymi | 15m, 9 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ La non demande en mariage P1
1
6a+
| ||||||
6a | ★★ Zoé ma grenouille | 15m, 9 | |||||
Fri 31st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
La Cascade | |||||||
7a+ ~7b+ | ★★★ Women | ||||||
One hell of a sandbag and not at all inspiring. Glad I can remove it from the to-do list as I don't want to do it anymore
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6c+ Hard | ★★ Medecine douce | 20m | |||||
Tricky to the third bolt but then better rests than Ananda. I felt so flamed after the crux but managed to hold on, proud of that
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7a | ★★★ Ananda — 2 attempts | 25m | |||||
Super fun! Not too long but great holds
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Thu 30th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Dalles Grises | |||||||
5c | ★★ Chlorochose - with Mélissa | 150m | |||||
Thu 30th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Oeil de Faucon - with Matt King, Catland | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really good, but a tough onsight through the rooflet. Very exciting finale with the bolts in the middle of an 8a slab right of the jug flake you actually climb
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Thu 30th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Les Maitres du Monde | |||||||
7b+ | Kneepad ★★★ Bibendum — 2 attempts - with Matt King, Catland | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fell a couple moves from the anchor. Pins and needles and poison blood pumped. Next lap was a no-go. Was fun to try hard while pumped
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6a+ |
★ Les malvoyants P1
- with
Matt King, Catland
1
6a+
| 20m | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ | Fécondation in vitro | 25m | |||||
6a+ |
★ Les malvoyants P1
1
6a+
| 40m | |||||
Thu 30th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche — 2 attempts | 20m | |||||
Good links! Made it to the second last bolt from the ground absolutely flamed with no hope of continuing
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Wed 29th May 2024 - Annot | |||||||
Le Ruch Le RuchS | |||||||
B3 | bloc n° 623 | ||||||
B4 | bloc n° 530 | ||||||
B5 | bloc n° 531 | ||||||
B3 | bloc n° 532 | ||||||
B1 | la descente | ||||||
Wed 29th May 2024 - Annot | |||||||
De la 4e à la 7e épingle Menhir | |||||||
B2 | bloc n° 688 | ||||||
B2 | bloc n° 689 | ||||||
Wed 29th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Les Maitres du Monde | |||||||
6b | ★★ La renfougne | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Actually stellar crack climbing, just be aware of stinging nettle in it
|
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Wed 29th May 2024 - Les Calanques | |||||||
Sormiou Colline de Lun sueurs froides | |||||||
6a | ★ Lame de fond | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
5c | ★★★ Degaine-toi du rève anxieux des bien-assis | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a | Sueurs froides | 20m | Average | ||||
Wed 29th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
7a ~7a+ |
★★ Livingstone
— 4 attempts
1
6b
25m
2
7a
15m
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A very tricky second pitch
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Wed 29th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Les Maitres du Monde | |||||||
6a+ | ★ La diagonale | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7b+ Easy | ★★★ Bibendum — 3 attempts | 35m | |||||
What a mega route! It's jugs the whole way, but Soo steeep. In the last handjam rest near the top, I was so fatigued (or something) that I started getting shooting pains, like pins and needles down my right wrist! Fortunately it didn't stop me from sending
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Les Maitres du Monde | |||||||
7b+ | Kneepad ★★★ Bibendum — 2 attempts - with Matt King, Catland, Elaine | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Stupidly big holds, stupidly steep. Rad. One lap to figure out sequences, some good links on the second lap and a TR lap linking the whole headwall.
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Le Vol du Pilatus - with Matt King, Catland, Elaine | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun at the perfect angle to make all the holds disappear. Long line with plenty of climbing
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Rive Gauche Point Sublime Duc-Encastel Dièdre Samson | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Serie Limitèe
- with
pili
1
6b
2
6b+
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
6c
6
6c
7
7a
8
6c
| 300m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 28th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Les Maitres du Monde | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Bibendum | 35m | |||||
Yeah buddeh
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
6c+ |
★★★ La Reine Des Pommes P1
1
6c+
| 40m, 18 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Mawoi P1
1
6b+
| 50m | |||||
P1 only. A little insecure
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Main Morte Polytechnique | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Bismillah | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice route, mostly good pockets through the steep bulge. With a final boulder at the end. Explosive final move
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7b+ | ★ Dans ta Gueule | ★ Good | |||||
The grade is due to a hard crimpy boulder at the end of the overhang, too hard for me.
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6b+ | ★★ Réglette du Graal | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice, steep, pumpy.
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6a | L'Echauf | 20m | |||||
Not sure if there was a new route bolted but very nice, good holds, steep, short
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Fenrir | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Rêve de Fer | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route in amazing grey rock. Climbing is rather steep therefore you have a lot of air underneath.
The whole route has new bolts and the anchors are positioned a bit differently than in our guide book. For the approach you have to rappel (or scramble) about 10/15m straight down. There are a few different anchors you can choose from, at the correct anchor the name is written next to it.
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
6c+ |
★★★ La Reine Des Pommes P1
1
6c+
| 40m, 18 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Le Vol du Pilatus | 35m | |||||
Mon 27th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Six Fois Zette/Carelle | |||||||
7b |
★★★ Ticket Danger
- with
pili
1
7b
Travesia de 3 chapas hasta la salida -1 pasó 7b \6c
2
6c+
Muy bueno
3
6a
lead by
pili
4
6a
Se pueden unir L4 y L5
5
6a
6
6a
lead by
pili
7
6a+
| 200m | ★ Good | ||||
Un poco pulida
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Mon 27th May 2024 - Annot | |||||||
Vire du Bas | |||||||
7a | Enculator - with Gian, Beni | ||||||
6b | Ça déroule dans le 5.11 - with Gian, Beni | ||||||
6a+ | Chauffe Marcel - with Gian, Beni | ||||||
Mon 27th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Mawoi P1
- with
Matt King, Cartland, Elaine
1
6b+
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 27th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Alambic Sortie Sud | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 27th May 2024 - Massif Soubeyran | |||||||
Falaises Soubeyranes Le pendule | |||||||
6b+ | Never mind the bollocks | 100m | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Deux vauriens trois canailles | 140m | |||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Le Galetas Crête des Vernis | |||||||
6c Easy | ★★ Une pincée de ketchup - with pili | 280m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Natilik | |||||||
6b |
★★★ Chérubin
- with
Matt King
1
6a+
Felt harder than the crux pitch
2
6b
What a feature, shit the fucken bed!
3
5b
| ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Nice to top out the mount and explore the top on a sunny afternoon.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Malines Falaise du Pas d'Issane | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bonne pioche | ★ Good | |||||
7a | ★★★ Colocaïne | ★★★ Classic | |||||
6c | ★★★ Corona Chaos | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Fontvieille Grand yeux noirs | |||||||
5a ~5a+ | ★★★ Tableau noir | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Voie incroyable! Cotation 5a (topo pré 2022) juste sur l'ensemble de la voie sauf pour le dernier pas qui mérite son 5c
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Fontvieille Bloc penché | |||||||
5 | ★ Plein Sud | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Fontvieille Ome de la Lèque | |||||||
5c | ★ Le chemin des étoiles | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Les Calanques | |||||||
Morgiou la Roche Percée | |||||||
6c | ★ Mechant trunk | ||||||
6a | Le Boutan | 18m, 7 | |||||
5b | ★ La Boudha | 18m, 7 | |||||
5b+ | La boubou | ||||||
5b | ★ L'auriolaise | ||||||
5a | ★★ Le Boyau | ||||||
5b | La Baleine | ||||||
5c | Cordon Ombilical | ||||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Grand Travers Rocher école | |||||||
5b | La D7 | 25m | |||||
5a | ★ L'Annie | 25m | |||||
5a - b | ★★ La Sophie | 25m | |||||
6a | ★★★ La Danone | ||||||
6b | ★★ La Lyon | ||||||
6b+ | Cracoucass | ||||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine de Gigondas Diedre de Provence | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Apollo 13 | 30m | |||||
6a | ★★★ Dièdre de Provence | 65m, 13 | |||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Clapis Vistemboir | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Viva la vida | 75m | Average | ||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Clapis Maryline | |||||||
5a | Les jupons de maryline | 40m | |||||
5b | John Kennedy | 40m | |||||
6a | Petrol Hann | 35m | |||||
6a+ | Ouarzazate et s'enfuir | ||||||
5a | Les jupons de maryline | 40m | |||||
6a | Petrol Hann | 35m | |||||
6a+ | Ouarzazate et s'enfuir | ||||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Natilik | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Chérubin | ||||||
Lead P1 & 3. P2 is absolutely stellar
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Annot | |||||||
Paolo Felici | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Jo part à Cetamol |