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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Aus der Scharte (Norden) spreizen und Nordwestgrat zG.

Vom Block Wand gerade zG.

Vom Einstieg vom "Nordweg" Hangelband nach links zur Kiefer.

FA: Dieter Gürtler, W. Köhler & G. Gürtler, 1966

Links in der Nordostwand überhängende Wand zu Band. Links von Kiefer hoch und rechtshaltend Mulde zG.

FA: Hermann Potyka & J. Böhme, 1963

Links der "Nordostwand" überhängende Wand zu Band. Wand und Grat zG. - Im "Elbsandstein Plaisir - Kletterführer" beschrieben.

Links der "Linken Nordostwand" überhängende Wand direkt zur "Ostkante". - Auch Sitzstart und Variationen möglich.

FA: Karlheinz Günther, 1969

Von der Südkante rechtsansteigend Rampe und Ostkante zG.

FA: Heinz Güldner, D. Weidenmüller & H. Walther, 1963

Wand bei Zacke gerade zG.

Wand 2m rechts der Gabelweihe.

Einstieg 3m rechts der SW-Wand, in gebogener Linie über Löcher/Seitgriffe zum Ring von dort rechtsansteigend zur Rippe, dann Kante zum Gipfel (Q Rölke 2015)

FA: M.Mortensen & R.Kunert, 1969

Vom R Reibung gerade zG.

VI im aktuellen Kletterführer, aber durch größer werdenden Tritt Konsens V.

VI in the current guidebook, but foothold is getting bigger, so consensus V.

VIIa im aktuellen Kletterführer, Konsens VI.

VIIa in the current guidebook, but consensus VI.

Vom Einstieg "Alter Weg Variante" Wand leicht rechtshaltend zur Westkante.

Vom östlichen Massiv an Eisenzacken 3m absteigen und Sprung zum Ende der Rampe der "Ostkante". Diese zG.

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2011

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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