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Ascents in Hoher Torstein

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Showing all 50 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIIb Direkte Knirpelwand - with Sören Mixed trad 80m, 5 Classic
Peter Colditz
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIIb Direkte Knirpelwand - with Fabian Mixed trad 80m, 5
Erbse
VIIIb Direkte Knirpelwand - with Erbse Mixed trad 80m, 5 Classic
Fabian
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIc Omega - with vilda_hkvdf Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Franta Kaván
VIIc Omega - with Franta Kaván Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
vilda_hkvdf
5 . Beg / 5th repeat

 
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIa Nordostweg - with David X Trad 120m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
We wanted to start right where we slept and this was the most intriguing line (at least to me) in the vicinity. I don't really know what I was thinking when I donned shorts the day before, but looking at the narrow chimney start, I already knew I was going to have a lot of fun. Tried tying my sweat towel to my left knee using tape and set off. About 1,5 meters up, it was gone already and my knee started to get numb. Luckily I didn't feel any pain because it was so exhausting at the same time. After 5 meters or so (which took me ages) you can finally put your right foot on a good chicken head on the outside, which also offers the first sling placement. But actually, the climbing eases off a lot there, it's pretty relaxing up to the belay in the alcove at around 30 meters. I didn't spot the little belay bolt, so I set up belay at the big rock tunnel (body belay to not weigh and damage it). Second pitch starts off with an awkward overhanging chimney that's hard to get into. First tried with my back on the wrong side and had to slide back down. After a few meters, you reach a little rock head (good sling) and the climb transitions into a crack dihedral. I placed some slings there, but none of them were 100%, I suppose. Around 2 meters above the last sling, the holds get thin and the dihedral flattens. I can hardly imagine how the first ascensionist must have felt soloing this section (well actually, I can a little because I didn't want to fall into my slings, too!) The pockets you gain just in time are probably often dirty because of all of the heather growing on the big ledge above, adding to the spice, so I took my time and brushed out the sand and dirt before carefully pulling on them to shift my ass over onto the slab on the right. Belay on a bunch of trees. The start of pitch three is brittle and sandy, but it gets better quickly. Below the final overhang, I chose to go right a bit and up directly, which is how I interpreted the route description (also, the groove on the left was blocked by a birch tree). Quite nice pitch this way and a belay ring on top. From here it's another 30 meter stroll (various options) to the summit. Quite the journey!

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
IV Thielweg Trad
maze
Mon 8th May 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1 Classic
Tobias Pissulla
II Schusterweg Trad Classic
Tobias Pissulla
Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1
mathias scholz
II Alter Weg Trad Classic
mathias scholz
VIIc Reise zum Mittelpunkt der Erde Mixed trad 2 Classic
mathias scholz
Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Alter Weg - with mathias scholz Trad Don't Bother
Jonas Eberhard
VIIc ~VIIb Reise zum Mittelpunkt der Erde - with mathias scholz Mixed trad 2 Good
Jonas Eberhard
VIIc Südwand - with Raimund Trad 60m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Amazing line. It's already a bit surreal standing at the start on that massive flake just hanging there, with a chasm almost like a Bergschrund between it and the wall. The difficult and scary part is right at the start. The first ring is quite low, and after that you need to just power through the hand crack and not get irritated by that one little section where the jams are a little shaky. Draws up diagonally to the right from the second ring, with juggy climbing and good protection, then up towards a nasty little offwidth that ends up in a finishing chimney.

 
Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1
Nino R
Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Schusterweg Trad Classic
Peter Colditz
Kopflampe im Kaminlabyrinth nicht vergessen...

 
Mon 11th Apr 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante - with Friedrich Spiller Mixed trad 1 Very Good
Lucas Wilhelm
Mon 14th Mar 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1 Classic
Martok
Fri 13th Aug 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
IXb Plattenspieler Trad
Felix
Bis 3.R

 
VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
vilda_hkvdf
IXb Plattenspieler Trad
vilda_hkvdf
VIIIb Direkte Knirpelwand (Direkte Knirpelwand (RP)) - with LL Mixed trad 80m, 5 Classic
vilda_hkvdf
too hot, above 4.R was already on sun

 
VIIIb VIIIc Knirpelwand Einstiegsvariante - with LL Mixed trad 80m, 7 Classic
vilda_hkvdf
Good alternative for reaching the ledge. Be careful under 1.R. 11.Beg.

 
Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIb VIIc Südwand (Südwand (RP)) Trad 60m Classic
vilda_hkvdf
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1
The roaming lioness
Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
III Nordwestkamin Trad Average
vilda_hkvdf
VIIc Naumannhangel Mixed trad 80m, 2 Good
vilda_hkvdf
Sat 31st Aug 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIIa Herbstweg Trad Classic
Elmo
Wed 3rd Jul 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Schusterweg - with Andreas, Sophia, Enrico, Alice, Martin, Lilan, Lasse, Carmen Trad
Kevin Eckert
Sat 22nd Jun 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1 Classic
PD
Mon 17th Jun 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Schusterweg Trad
cooky
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1
cooky
Sun 30th Sep 2018 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIb Eichenweg - with Thomas, Torsten Trad Good
David M.
VIIc Südwand (RP) - with Thomas, Torsten Trad 60m Very Good
David M.
Mon 28th May 2018 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1 Very Good
Felix Ketzer
Sat 9th May 2015 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Seydesche Variante Mixed trad 1 Good
David M.
Fri 27th Jul 2012 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
III Alter Ostweg Trad
Leo Seib
Sun 16th Aug 1998 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
IV Rechter Winkel Trad
Nicky
Sat 5th Oct 1991 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIIa Knirpelwand Trad Classic
Tino Seidler
Sun 5th May 1991 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIc Knirpelwand Trad Classic
Tino Seidler
Sat 21st Apr 1984 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIc Südwand - with J.S. Trad 60m
Dolly
Wed 16th Jun 1982 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
Dolly
VIIc Südwand Trad 60m
Dolly
VIIa Winkelweg Trad
Dolly
IV Fischerweg Trad
Dolly
VIIb Westverschneidung Trad
Dolly
V Nordweg Trad
Dolly
Tue 15th Jun 1982 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
VI Nordostweg - with J.S. Trad 120m
Dolly
Sat 15th Jun 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein
II Rägerweg (Rügerweg) Trad
Dominik

Showing all 50 ascents.

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