Routes in Südtirol for selected grade

#standstart

https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/alpinklettern/suedtirols-sueden/sarner-scharte-via-...-da-trento/37751721/

Start of the climb: GPS 46.508,11.303 A few cams and slings can be useful.

The area around the start of the climb has been obviously cleared of vegetation, and the rock cleaned. You can see a tree with a fixed sling approx. 5 metres off the ground from the base.

1. [35m, V] Follow the crack diagonally up to the left, around a tree with a thread. Trend right up the slab following bolts up to the horizontal crack in the overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the right and then sightly to the right up to the anchor o 2 bolts.

2. [30m, 5b+] From the belay, go left to the small wall with bolts. After that cross upwards to the left again to the next wall and follow the bolts to the bolted anchor.

3. [25m, IV +] Up the slabs (3 bolts) to a ledge. Follow this for 5 bolts, immediately after, you find the anchor (2 bolts).

4. [50 m, II, 1 bra] The Borneo Expedition. Up approx. 5m to the fixed rope, follow the rope through bushes and ledges to the next stand at two bra. Watch out for the loose rocks! (Variant on the standard route: go right for 20m and you will see the two new pitches up the corner: 1. pitch: 5c, 20m 9 bolts. 2. pitch: 6a+, 30m, 14 bolts November 2021 / Dennis Moser and Gabriel Mangera)

5. [35 m, IV +] Follow the arete, very nice climbing with little pockets and and knobs. Anchor on two bolts.

6. [35 m, V-] Continue up nice climbing on arete/slab nice up to a ledge. Climb next small wall with a crack (1 bolt). Official anchor on fixed tat off large pine tree. Recommended to use first bolt of pitch 7 and slung rock as anchor. Rope drag & directional pull better.

7. [45 m, IV+] Continue up corner, follow 3 bolts up to a vertical wall, go around to the right, up some blocky ledges (1 bolt). Pass a slung tree to the right, and over the last small wall to the anchor (2 BH)

Descent: From the top anchor, follow the tracks to the right. They lead you down to the dirt track a about 100 m from the farm house.

Completamente da attrezzare e pulire Attacco in un diedro/camino 30m a sinistra di Sonntagspatziergang molto bella la placca del terzo tiro

Perfect dihedral a long the complete tower. Wild and very remote.

https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/dolomiti/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2338&id_tipologia=38

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/ibex-lagazuoi/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/tour/topo/23096/topo-pera-forada-lagazuoi-klettern-dolomiten.jpg

Partly marked route (red markers) at the Punta Alpini. Emergency decent possible after pitch 5 (yellow markers). Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/suedkante-punta-alpini/

From far away, you can spot the start of route by finding: a) the circular black hole in the wall then b) up to the right, another black mark on the wall then c) down to the right, the starting boulder with the permanent snowfield to the right of the boulder.

At the base of the cliff, above the boulder is the start of the route (1 piton with fixed cord). If you start from the ground, P1 is approx. 55m. Otherwise, scramble to the top of the boulder (recommended so that your gear doesn't get wet in the afternoon snowmelt)

1. Climb the slab, wandering a little L and R to find gear and the bolts. Go up to the small ledge with the anchor (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 9 bolts.

2. Go up briefly on the slab, then move to the right. Soon afterwards, move to the left, following the crack all the way to a ledge where you find the belay. There is an abseil anchor 10m to right of the climbing anchor do not use this (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 4 bolts, 4 pitons.

3. Sharply diagonally to the left around the base of the small column, then up into the gully (initially crumbly), which goes up and slightly to the right. Some stemming an another bolt leads you to the belay, on top of a small pillar, vertically above the last anchor (1 bolt + 1 piton + cord + rings). 1 bolt.

4. Go up vertically from the belay, cross an overhang and continue to the next belay (2 bolts + rope + quick link). 3 bolts, 1 fixed sling.

5. Continue slightly diagonally to the right, aiming for a mini-cave with a yellowish overhang, under which find the anchor. (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 3 fixed slings.

6. Move 2m to the right, and go up the improbably easy overhang. Easier climbing leads to the next anchor (3 bolts + 1 hourglass + cord + quick link) 1 bolt, 1 piton, 2 fixed slings.

7. Go slightly to the right, around the final overhang, then continue vertically up to the anchor on top of the White Pillar (2 pitons + cord + abseil rings). 1 fixed sling.

Descent:

Abseil the route, using the anchors. (1h-1h30) Many of the 40m pitches are possible to abseil on a 70m rope with rope stretch, as the route zig-zags a lot. For pitch 1 & 2 which are very vertical, a 50m pull-cord or second rope is necessary.

For pitches 6 & 7 a single rope is recommended to avoid the rope getting stuck. Be very careful, there are lots of horns/features to trap your rope!

sd

Northwest Edge of the Meisules.

Primo tiro in comune con via dei Pilastrini ultimo in comune con via dei Camini

Nice climb. Friend 3

1. Scramble up the grey blocky rocks to the base of the crack. Clip the cemented piton anchor. Follow the crack, interrupted by small overhangs, up to the belay (3 pitons). (35 m, V)

2. Diagonally to the left, then up to the dihedral/gully that you follow until an overhang forces you to move slightly to the right. Follow the short dihedral that ends on a ledge with the belay (2 bolts, chain & ring). (30m, IV-)

3. Reach the dihedral to the left of the belay and follow it. At its end, a gully leads to a ledge with a small cave. Move a little to the right to the belay (2 bolts). (25m, IV+)

4. Climb directly above the cave, following the crack on the left. (2 pitons). (20m, V)

5. Follow the dihedral gully up to the saddle. Along the ridgeline you reach the top of Torre Stabeler with the anchor (cemented piton). (40m, IV)

#standstart

#standstart