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Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
Approach
<5 min
Drive up the road that leads into Val Piantonetto from the village of Rosone and follow it for about 3km until you pass through the very small village of San Lorenzo. Upon leaving the village you will see a small concrete shed; to the right there is a big waterfall and the crag is just to the left of this. 5 minute approach, through the woods.
Ethic inherited from Valle Orco
New route potential
Well established
Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.
- Bolts
- are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.
Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.
Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
100 selected crack climbs from completely drilled through to completely self belaying, from 6 m to 160 m.
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Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788894526516
A selective guidebook describing over 100 of the best crack climbs in the Orco Valley ranging in difficulty from F4c through to F8b, and from 6m to 160m long.
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Author(s): M. Oviglia
Date: 2010
This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Sun 28 May
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