Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Cortina d'Ampezzo Area 715 routes in Region

18 33 19 21 17 3 24 25 26 29 23 30 27 7 5 22 1 6 4 36 2 28 15 34 35 32 31 10 20

1 Cinque Torri 2 Gruppo Nuvolau 3 Tre Cime di Lavaredo 4 Crepe De Oucera Alti 5 Crepe De Oucera Bassi 6 Beco d'Ajal 7 Campo Volpera 10 Podenzoi 15 Croda da Lago 17 Zwölferkogel 18 Croda Rossa di Sesto 19 Torre di Toblin 20 Maé 21 Monte Paterno 22 Gruppo Marmarole 23 Gruppo Tofane 24 Gruppo del Cristallo 25 Gruppo dei Cadini 26 Pomagagnon 27 Monte Faloria 28 Anello Sorapiss 29 Rio Gere 30 Palestra Lino Lacedelli 31 Longarone: Palasport 32 Parete Di Malcolm 33 Einserkofel 34 Monte Pelmo 35 Rocetta Alta di Bosconero 36 Punta Tre Sorella

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.504539, 12.263757

1.1. Cinque Torri 134 routes in Crag

9 11 7 8 6 5 3 4 2 10 1

1 Torre Grande 2 Sasso Cubico 3 Torre Lusy 4 Torre del Barancio 5 Torre Romana 6 Torre Latina 7 Torre Quarta 8 Torre di Mezzo 9 Torre Inglese 10 Massi 11 Trephor Slab

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509701, 12.051661

summary

Dolomite climbing light - easy access, solid rock and lots of bolted routes.

description

The Cinque Torri (five towers) are one of the most scenic spots of the Dolomites and ideal for beginners of alpine climbing. The routes are short and the approach is gentle.

Cinque Torri, as all the other mountains in the area, are made of Dolomite, with a particular pale grey colour. The group is formed by five towers (which give the name to the mountain) with a maximum elevation of 2.361 m ('Torre Grande'). Every "tower" has its own name:

• 'Torre Grande', the highest one has three very appealing peaks: 'Cima Nord', 'Cima Sud' e 'Cima Ovest';
• Torre Seconda, also named 'Torre del Barancio' or 'Torre Romana';
• Terza Torre, or 'Torre Latina';
• Quarta Torre, formed by two blocks of rock with different height, respectively called then 'Torre Quarta Bassa' and 'Torre Quarta Alta';
• Quinta Torre, or 'Torre Inglese'.

They are located in the south-west area of the valley of Cortina d'Ampezzo, north of the Averau mountain, which Cinque Torri can be considered part of. Between the towers there is an open air WW1-museum. Expect crowds of climbers and visitors!

Overview and access: http://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/VIE_FUTURE/5_TORRI/schizzi_vari_5_torri_cortina.html

some topos: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/Rock/crags/falesia.html?idfalesia=121

approach

1. Park at the Cinque Torri Chair-lifts and take the lift up to the Rifugio Scoiattoli. From there in ten minutes to the crag.

2. Park at the Cinque Torri Chair-lifts and hike up to the crag in about 60 minutes.

3. From the Rifugio Cinque Torri in 10 minutes.

where to stay

• Rifugio Scoiattoli
• Rifugio Cinque Torri

1.1.1. Torre Grande 60 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.508946, 12.051470

1.1.2. Sasso Cubico 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509386, 12.052432

1.1.3. Torre Lusy 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509716, 12.052323

1.1.4. Torre del Barancio 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509683, 12.052154

1.1.5. Torre Romana 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509731, 12.051977

1.1.6. Torre Latina 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509913, 12.050836

1.1.7. Torre Quarta 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510396, 12.051472

1.1.8. Torre di Mezzo 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510139, 12.051280

descent notes

Rappel anchors at SE-side of summit pinnacle. Be careful no to dislodge any the of loose stones!

1.1.9. Torre Inglese 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510837, 12.051012

1.1.10. Massi 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509379, 12.050760

1.1.11. Trephor Slab 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510456, 12.052391

description

Tore Trephor collapsed in 2004, leaving among the debris two huge cubes with a perfect split between them.

approach

On the north-east side of the "5 torri" path

1.1.12. Old Torre Trephor (destroyed) 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

What used to be the fifth tower

description

This tower crashed in 2004, leaving among the debris two huge cubes with a perfect split between them.

1.2. Gruppo Nuvolau 36 routes in Crag

2 5 4 3 1

1 Ra Gusela 2 Averau 3 Rene' de Pol 4 Croda Negra 5 Coston d'Averau

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.499998, 12.036329

1.2.1. Ra Gusela 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.493921, 12.048974

1.2.2. Averau 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.501953, 12.037232

1.2.3. Rene' de Pol 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.500755, 12.035236

summary

Vie di 15/18 metri. Materiale necessario: - Corda da 50 mt. - 10 Rinvi

description

Vie di 15/18 metri. Materiale necessario: - Corda da 50 mt. - 10 Rinvi

approach

Parcheggiando al Rifugio Fedare si può raggiungere la forcella Nuvolau con comodo sentiero a piedi in 30 minuti oppure prendere la seggiovia e da lì proseguire a sinistra sul sentiero Cai 441, in 10 minuti si arriva alla base delle vie. Tante alternative di arrivo essendo una zona molto accessibile.

history

Inaugurata il 16 luglio 2020, la nuova palestra di roccia per l’arrampicata sportiva è situata ai piedi della parete sud del Monte Averau. La palestra è dedicata all'alpinista Renato De Pol Rene' morto sullo spigolo Iori il primo maggio 1973. Una targa in bronzo (Ditta Michielli) è posta in ricordo dell'alpinista scomparso.

1.2.4. Croda Negra 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.502151, 12.025659

1.2.5. Coston d'Averau 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.511204, 12.008239

description

Beautiful limestone wall, 250 meters. Access from "Hotel Al Sasso di Stria" (Pian di Falzarego). Behind the houses across the stream, down the footpath and up under the wall. Many old routes (old photo & topo: http://gianpasora.blogspot.com/2011/08/cesare-e-il-coston-daverau.html).

1.3. Tre Cime di Lavaredo 47 routes in Crag

3 2 1

1 Cima Ovest 2 Cima Grande di Lavaredo 3 Cima Piccola

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.619225, 12.299079

description

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Italian for "three peaks of Lavaredo"), also called the Drei Zinnen (German, literally "three merlons"), are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. The three peaks, from east to west, are:

• Cima Piccola / Kleine Zinne ("little peak")
• Cima Grande / Große Zinne ("big peak")
• Cima Ovest / Westliche Zinne ("western peak").

history

The first ascent of the Cima Grande was on August 21, 1869, by Paul Grohmann with guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher. The Cima Ovest was first climbed exactly ten years later, on August 21, 1879, by Michel Innerkofler with G. Ploner, a tourist. The Cima Piccola was first climbed on July 25, 1881, by Michel and Hans Innerkofler. The routes of these three first ascents are still the normal ascent routes; the Cima Piccola's route is the most difficult of the three.

Emilio Comici † was the first to climb the north face of the Cima Grande in 1933 in a party of three, after an ascent time of 3 days and 2 nights. This partly overhanging northern face is considered by climbers to be one of the great north faces of the Alps.

Other Milestones:

• 1987 First free ascent of 'Hasse-Brandler' and 'Schweizer Führe' by Kurt Albert †
• 2001 First free ascent of 'Bellavista' by Alexander Huber
• 2007 First free ascent of 'Pan Aroma' by Alexander Huber

1.3.1. Cima Ovest 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.617605, 12.297065

description

DE: Westliche Zinne

1.3.2. Cima Grande di Lavaredo 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.618291, 12.303394

1.3.3. Cima Piccola 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.619940, 12.307399

description

Die östliche der Drei Zinnen. Östlich der Kleinen Zinne sind von ihr noch Punta di Frida und Preußturm abgespalten.

approach

Vom Rifugio Lavaredo

descent notes

Abseil down the Normal Route to the shoulder, then straight down (W) into the gorge between Cima Grande and Cima Piccola (now equipped with good bolts)

1.4. Crepe De Oucera Alti 69 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.507700, 12.078800

1.4.1. Settore A 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.2. Settore B 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.3. Settore C 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.4. Settore D 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.5. Settore E 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.5. Crepe De Oucera Bassi 83 routes in Area

3 2 1

1 Settore A 2 Settore B 3 Settore C

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.514347, 12.083233

1.5.1. Settore A 42 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.513678, 12.084148

1.5.2. Settore B 27 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.514571, 12.083082

1.5.3. Settore C 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.515304, 12.082128

1.6. Beco d'Ajal 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.507866, 12.106955

1.6.1. Settore A 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.6.2. Settore B 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.6.3. Settore C 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.6.4. Settore D 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.7. Campo Volpera 34 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.524203, 12.122917

1.7.1. I tre moschettieri 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Inside the climbing area are also some boulder problems.

approach

Follow the path to Le Grotte di Volpèra

1.8. Sasso di Colfiere 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Son Pouses 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Podenzoi 80 routes in Crag

4 3 2 1

1 Killer finger 2 Cara ti amo 3 Acque 4 Settore destro

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.273044, 12.294581

history

Discovered and established in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo

1.10.1. Killer finger 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.272271, 12.294143

1.10.2. Cara ti amo 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.272713, 12.294388

1.10.3. Acque 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.273150, 12.294625

1.10.4. Settore destro 31 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.273630, 12.294890

1.11. Rifugio Pordeone 0 routes in Crag

1.12. Ponte Gotte 0 routes in Crag

1.13. Perete di Sediei 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Cellino 0 routes in Crag

1.15. Croda da Lago 18 routes in Crag

3 1 2 4

1 Cason di Formin 2 Lastoi de Formin 3 Crepe del Pantei 4 II Torrione di Mondeval

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.489577, 12.097192

summary

N-S running ridge with impressive walls

1.15.1. Cason di Formin 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.485371, 12.098643

description

Northernmost summit of the chain

1.15.2. Lastoi de Formin 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.482806, 12.081225

1.15.3. Crepe del Pantei 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.508196, 12.125061

summary

Fairly accessible crag with good quality rock.

description

Easily reached by a quick hike from Rifugio Lago d’Ajal

1.15.4. II Torrione di Mondeval 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.473692, 12.084081

1.16. Nasswand 0 routes in Crag

1.17. Zwölferkogel 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.619119, 12.358523

1.18. Croda Rossa di Sesto 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.642542, 12.374908

1.19. Torre di Toblin 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.632131, 12.313676

1.20. Maé 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.261104, 12.295947

approach

5 Min.a piedi

1.21. Monte Paterno 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.623632, 12.318155

1.22. Gruppo Marmarole 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.512731, 12.402959

1.23. Gruppo Tofane 23 routes in Crag

5 3 2 1 4

1 Castelletto 2 Tofana di Rozes 3 Tofana di Mezzo 4 Col dei Bos 5 Tofana de Inze

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.552628, 12.066973

summary

Tofane Group is one of the most iconic mountain groups in the Dolomites and a popular destination for a rock climbing lovers.

description

The Tofane Group is a mountain range located in the Dolomites, a mountain range in northeastern Italy. It is situated in the province of Belluno, within the Veneto region. The Tofane Range is one of the most iconic and visually striking mountain groups in the Dolomites.

The Tofane Group is known for its distinctive peaks and jagged rock formations, which make it a popular destination for mountaineering, hiking, and rock climbing enthusiasts. The three main peaks of the Tofane Group are:

Tofana di Mezzo (3,244 meters): this is the highest peak in the Tofane Group and offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Tofana di Dentro (3,238 meters): this peak is slightly lower than Tofana di Mezzo but is equally impressive. It is known for its challenging climbing routes.

Tofana di Rozes (3,225 meters): this peak is located at the southern end of the Tofane Group and is renowned for its vertical walls, making it a favorite among rock climbers.

The Tofane Group is not only a popular destination for outdoor activities but also hosts various international competitions and events, including ski races and mountaineering championships. The area is also known for its scenic beauty, with dramatic cliffs, alpine meadows, and picturesque valleys.

Overall, the Tofane Group offers a unique blend of natural beauty and thrilling outdoor adventures, making it a sought-after destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts visiting the Dolomites. Source Powrock.

where to stay

*Rifugio Dibona

*Rifugio Giussani

1.23.1. Castelletto 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534485, 12.041775

description

The Castelletto della Tofana is a rocky appendix of the Tofana di Rozes, divided from it by the small Forcella di Rozes. The Castelletto tunnel leads to the start of the via ferrata Lipella

approach

From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant Ra Nona (1985m).

Take path no. 412 that leads away from the bar towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After 10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the Col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads to Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto (1.15 hrs from the car).

descent notes

From the summit either abseil using one 70m rope or, more comfortably, from the final belay treverse left along the wide ledge that leads onto the other side of the Castelletto. From here continue down the path in roughly 20 minutes to the base of the routes.

1.23.2. Tofana di Rozes 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.536467, 12.053467

description

Tofana di Rozes is one of the prominent peaks in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites, located in northeastern Italy. It stands at an elevation of 3,225 meters (10,580 feet) and is known for its rugged and vertical rock faces, making it a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. Topo Photo

Tofana di Rozes offers various climbing routes, ranging from moderate to extremely challenging, both sport and trad routes and via ferrata route such as the spectacular via ferrata Lipella, catering to climbers of different skill levels and experience.

Climbing Tofana di Rozes requires proper equipment, including a climbing harness, helmet, ropes, and appropriate rock climbing gear. It is advisable to climb with experienced partners or under the guidance of a knowledgeable mountain guide who can provide assistance and ensure safety during the ascent.

The panoramic views from Tofana di Rozes are breathtaking, with the surrounding peaks, valleys, and the beautiful Dolomite landscape stretching out in all directions. Whether you are an experienced climber seeking a challenging ascent or simply want to admire the natural beauty, Tofana di Rozes offers an unforgettable experience in the Dolomites of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Source Powrock

approach

The best approach is from the Dibona refuge, which can be reached by car from the road that leads from Cortina to the Falzarego Pass

descent notes

From the summit the descent develops first along the normal route and then following an easy path up to the Dibona refuge

1.23.3. Tofana di Mezzo 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.550069, 12.066058

description

Climbing Tofana di Mezzo is another exciting adventure in the Dolomites of Italy. Tofana di Mezzo is one of the three main peaks in the Tofana Group, along with Tofana di Rozes and Tofana di Dentro. It offers a variety of climbing routes, making it suitable for climbers with different levels of experience and skills. However, it's essential to note that some routes can be quite challenging and demand a good level of mountaineering expertise.

Tofana di Mezzo offers some interesting climbing routes ranging from easier, less technical climbs to more challenging and technical ascents. It is above all famous for the via ferratas: *via ferrata Olivieri *via ferrata Gianni Aglio *via ferrata Ra Bujela

For the more trained hikers it can be climbed the complete via ferrata to Tofana di Mezzo, an amazing and challenging itinerary that connects three ferratas in a row, leading to the summit at 3244 meters.

approach

The approach is from the Dibona refuge, which can be reached by car from the road that leads from Cortina to the Falzarego Pass or directly from Cortina with the cable car and chair lifts or by car to the Piè Tofana car park

1.23.4. Col dei Bos 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.527191, 12.032023

description

https://www.sassbaloss.com/immagini/tracciati_vie/coldeibos.jpg

1.23.5. Tofana de Inze 0 routes in Cliff

1.24. Gruppo del Cristallo 7 routes in Crag

4 5

4 Dülfer-Weg 5 Monte Cristallo

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.587960, 12.199937

1.24.1. Monte Cristallo 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 46.575434, 12.201388

1.25. Gruppo dei Cadini 6 routes in Crag

1

1 Pilastro di Misurina

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.582918, 12.295926

1.25.1. Pilastro di Misurina 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.576423, 12.273539

approach

From Misurina use the chairlift that leads to Rifugio Col de Varda and follow the trail (#117) in direction of the pillar.

1.26. Pomagagnon 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.579226, 12.136856

1.27. Monte Faloria 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.527065, 12.184214

1.28. Anello Sorapiss 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.497590, 12.194041

1.29. Rio Gere 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.548070, 12.180598

1.30. Palestra Lino Lacedelli 0 routes in Gym

1.31. Longarone: Palasport 21 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.273500, 12.301700

1.31.1. Vie di sinistra 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.31.2. Vie Di Destra 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.32. Parete Di Malcolm 23 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.275700, 12.301600

1.33. Einserkofel 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.639239, 12.348289

1.34. Monte Pelmo 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.420329, 12.134012

1.35. Rocetta Alta di Bosconero 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.331141, 12.259130

1.36. Punta Tre Sorella 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.506039, 12.230693