A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jaroslav Karel
Jürgen Kabus
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Massone / Policromuro
188 in Crag
- 1.1. Settore A 25 in Sector
- 1.2. Settore B 44 in Sector
- 1.3. Settore C 20 in Sector
- 1.4. Settore D 10 in Sector
- 1.5. Settore E / Abissi 41 in Sector
- 1.6. Settore F / Il Pueblo 48 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Massone 188 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.929589, 10.902933
- All day sun:
- On April the sun was gone at approximately 4 pm. Some sectors are longer in the sun, others have some shade earlier.
- Kid friendly:
- At most sectors is enough space at the base of the wall for the kids to play.
summary
Very popular crag with wide range of grades and kid-friendly sectors. It also hosts the first 9a in Italy. Due to its popularity some of the routes are greasy.
description
Very popular crag with wide range of grades and kid-friendly sectors. It also hosts the first 9a in Italy.
access issues
Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.
approach
From Arco cross the bridge and take the state road 45bis to the left towards Trento. After 500m turn right and go up towards Massone, cross it and after a narrow passage under an arch turn left and go up among the olive trees towards Troiana. At the beginning of the hairpin bends are the walls on the left.
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1.1. Settore A 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.928681, 10.901537
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Piccola Luna | 4a | 12m | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Formica Lodovica | 5a | 12m | |||||
| 3 | ★ Giacca Gialla | 5b | 15m | |||||
| 4 | ★ Banane Fisch | 5a | 17m | |||||
| 5 | ★★ Lara Croft | 5c | 18m | |||||
| 6 | ★ Gelateria Tarifa | 6a+ | 11m | |||||
| 7 | ★ Easy Rider | 6c | 11m | |||||
| 8 | ★ Alce Volante | 6a | 12m, 7 | |||||
| 9 | Boiacca | 5c | 16m, 9 | |||||
| 10 | ★★ Giuditta | 6b | 18m | |||||
| 11 | ★★★ Jacopo | 6a+ | 20m, 15 | |||||
| 12 | ★ Pesce D'aprile | 6a - b | 20m | |||||
| 13 | ★★ Mingus / Skoda | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 14 | ★ Gocce d'Ansia | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
| 15 | ★ Pegasus | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
| 16 | ★ Zac | 5c | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 17 | ★ Tac | 5c | 15m | |||||
| 18 | ★★ N.N. | 5a | 15m | |||||
| 19 | ★ Camillo | 5b | 15m | |||||
| 20 | ★ Emiliano | 5b | 10m | |||||
| 21 | ★★ Valentino | 5b | 10m | |||||
| 22 | ★★ Bruno | 5b+ | 8m | |||||
| 23 | ★ Martino | 5a | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 24 | ★ Matteo MDF | 5a | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 25 | ★ Charlotta | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
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1.2. Settore B 44 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.929142, 10.902311
1.3. Settore C 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.929506, 10.902932
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Musetto E Big Gim | 6b+ | 23m | |||
| 2 | ★ Super Golia | 6c+ | 26m | |||
| 3 | ★ Heliotrop | 7b | 26m | |||
| 4 | Berny | 7c+ | 26m | |||
| 5 | ★★ Ictus | 6c+ | 26m | |||
| 6 | Destinazione Arena | 7c+ | 26m | |||
| 7 | ★ Senza Nome | 5a | 12m | |||
| 8 | ★★ Sabato Turistico | 6c | 24m | |||
| 9 | ★ Prime Impressioni | 6a | 25m | |||
| 10 | ★ Tullio E L'Amore | 6a | 23m | |||
| 11 | ★ Hurgada | 6b | 18m | |||
| 12 | ★★ Over Booking | 6a | 18m | |||
| 13 | ★★ Raper | 5c | 18m | |||
| 14 | ★ Settima Luna | 6c+ | 16m | |||
| 15 | ★ Ektoplasma | 6b | 18m | |||
| 16 | ★ Odio La Polvere | 6b | 18m | |||
| 17 | ★ L'Unicorno | 6a | 15m | |||
| 18 | ★ Stattento | 6a | 15m | |||
| 19 | ★ Impretrite's | 5b | 15m | |||
| 20 | ★ Marina's | 5a | 15m | |||
1.4. Settore D 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.929927, 10.903608
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Rettoscopie | 6b+ | 22m | |||
| 2 | ★ Il Culto dell'ostrica blu | 6b | 20m | |||
| 3 | ★ Fata Morgana | 7a+ | 20m | |||
| 4 | ★★ Il ritorno di Aly | 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 5 | ★★★ Ulla lo strapiombo che ti trastulla | 6c | 20m | |||
| 6 | ★★★ Un Bacio Di Karin | 7a+ | 20m | |||
| 7 | ★★★ Halloween | 7a | 20m | |||
| 8 | ★★ Ottopromille e piu | 6c+ | 20m | |||
| 9 | ★★ Ottopromille | 6c/c+ | 20m | |||
| 10 | ★★ Briciola | 6b+/c | 18m | |||
1.5. Settore E 41 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.930493, 10.904241
1.6. Settore F 48 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.931003, 10.904840
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Blondkopf | 7b+ | 25m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Troppo Leicht | 7b+ | ||||
| 3 | ★★★ Troppo Schwer | 8b | ||||
| 4 | ★★★ Super Attico | 7c+ | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Haleboop | 8b+ | ||||
| 6 | Grado Dipendenti | 7c | ||||
| 7 | ★★★ Big Spender | 7b+ | ||||
| 8 | ★★ Randa | 8a+ | ||||
| 9 | ★★★ Fuego | 8b | ||||
| 10 |
★★★ Underground
Starts on the right side of the cave, enters it and exits in the center.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZOuJB7X0 Depending on the climber the grading varies between 8c+ and 9a. It was initially graded 8c+ by Manfred Stuffer, but in 2000, Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a. In 2002, Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer suggested 9a. Alex Megos suggested a downgrade in 2020 after he flashed it back to 8c+ or 8c+/9a. Set: Gerhard Hörhager FA: Manfred Stuffer, 1998 FFA: Yuji Hirayama, 2000 | 8c+/9a | 25m | |||
| 11 |
Pure Dreaming Plus / Underground Dreaming / Puro Dreaming Plus
Pure Dreaming with start on Underground. FFA: Adam Ondra, 24 Feb 2018 | 9a+ | 40m | |||
| 12 |
Infinity m
Underground combined with Armagedon. | 9a | 50m | |||
| 13 | ★★★ Alcatraz | 8b+ | 25m | |||
| 14 | X-Large | 8c | ||||
| 15 | ★★★ Super Maratona | 8b | ||||
| 16 | ★★ Maratona | 8b | ||||
| 17 | ★★★ Athena | 8b+ | ||||
| 18 |
Athena natural (without chipped holds)
Without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). FFA: Adam Ondra, 4 Sep 2020 | 9a | ||||
| 19 | ★★★ Reini's Vibos / Reini's Vibes | 8c | ||||
| 20 | ★★ Stonehenge | 8c | 40m | |||
| 21 |
★ Pure Dreaming / Puro Dreaming
Variant of "Reini's Vibos". FA: Adam Ondra, 25 Feb 2018 | 9a | 30m | |||
| 22 |
Reini Murata
Reini's Vibes combined with La Pietra Murata. | 8c | 40m | |||
| 23 |
L'ultima Reini
Starts on "Reini's Vibes", climbs through "Pietramurata", downclimb boulder with hard heel hook and finger lock. FA: Eric Albertini | 8c+ | ||||
| 24 | Armagedon | 8c/c+ | 40m | |||
| 25 |
★ Thunder Ribes
FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 12 Dec 2016 | 9a | ||||
| 26 |
Ultimatum
Underground combined with Thunder Ribes FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 19 Dec 2016 | 9a+ | ||||
| 27 |
Under Vibes
Underground combined with Reini's Vibes. FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 8 Mar 2015 | 9a | ||||
| 28 |
Infinity
FA: Eric Albertini, Oct 2018 | 9a | 50m | |||
| 29 | La Pietra Murata | 8b+ | 45m | |||
| 30 | L'Ultima Pietra | 8c+ | 45m | |||
| 31 | Il Muratore | 8a+ | 26m | |||
| 32 | ★★ Shaved Beaver | 7c | 25m | |||
| 33 |
Unnamed 1
Same start as Shaved Beaver but branches out right. | 7c | 25m | |||
| 34 |
★ Flytrap / Flytrip
Same start as Twingo and Katha Martina but goes up straight. | 7b | 25m | |||
| 35 |
Twingo
Same start as Flytrap and Katha Martina but first variant up right. | 7b+ | 20m | |||
| 36 |
★★★ Katha Martina
Same start as Twingo and Flytrap but goes up on the far right. | 7b | 20m | |||
| 37 | ★★ Mike Jordan | 8b | 12m | |||
| 38 | ★★★ Thin Ice | 7b | 22m | |||
| 39 | Spleen | 7a | 22m | |||
| 40 | Hochseitzpfeiler | 8a+ | 28m | |||
| 41 | Heroes Del Silencio | 8b+ | ||||
| 42 | Man Spricht Deutsch | 8b | ||||
| 43 | El Riccio | 8a+ | ||||
| 44 | The Best Off | 8a | ||||
| 45 | Obsession | 7b+ | ||||
| 46 | Unknown 2 | 7c+ | ||||
| 47 | The Broken Vase | 7c+ | ||||
| 48 | Better Days | 7b | ||||
