Routes in Italy

Grade is not confirmed!

Dedicated to Peter Mair.

As described by Jacopo Larcher: So, basically, there is a first section which is kind of vertical—way easier than the rest of the route, it’s probably 5.12- or something like that. But it’s quite precarious. It doesn’t take a lot of gear; only two pieces in the first 15 meters, one nut and one cam. These pieces are good, it’s just that the first one is quite high up. So this first part isn’t super hard, but just technical climbing where it’s easy to make a mistake that would be bad.

Then you reach a no-hands rest below a roof, where the first crux is. You get some really good gear in a crack there, and from there on the route is quite safe. The first crux is after this roof and is’ compression climbing with a dynamic move to reach a slopey crack. The fall there is safe— if you don’t stick the last hard move, you fall with the rope behind your leg, but it’s still ok—I took this fall a few times.

Next, in the slopey horizontal crack you place the last two pieces before the upper crux. At this point you are on the left of the arete and then you climb to the right to a small rest.

Then there is the last hard boulder problem. You get this really bad right hand pinch, and you bring your foot super high onto this slopey foot hold. And from there you have to get this kind of two-finger pinch slot, before finally bumping to a good hold.

After that you place a ball nut and then you just have one weird move to get to a ledge— another hands rest, you can lay down. Above that there is still a 10-meter 5.12 crack to the top, which is all normal crack climbing with good gear. At first I wanted to make the route end at the ledge, because a different line finished on that crack and there were bolts on the crack. But the guy who had opened that climb chopped the bolts so that I could finish my line to the top.

A combination of the boulder The Green Shadow with Greenspit.

Starts right of Schweizerführe. Exit via Cassinführe.

http://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Alps-Bellavista.pdf

As Randall describes it: "It's a very steep finger crack and packs a serious punch in not much distance. Amazing steep powerful finger locks, and a nice offwidth finish."

A combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli, Silvio Fieschi, Fabio Spatola, 1989) up to the 15th pitch to then finish up Melat (Sonja Brambati, Adriano Carnati e Paolo Vitali, 1993).

Didier claimed that "Greenspit" is with no doubt among the most difficult crack climbs in Europe.

Variant that connects 'Conosci te stesso?' and 'Cani & Gatti'.

Dedicatd to Vecio Alpestre Renato Larcher

Gear

10 quickdraws + Totem Cams Black – Blue – Purple – Red

Gear

a set of Friends to #4

Gear:

8 quickdraws, slings, Friend BD Camalot from 0.3 - 2, + micro BD 0.1 - 0.2

Pure finger crack. Hard start with micro cams and small nuts, follows an easier but long #0.5 cam size section.

Climbs Punta Frassenè.

Incredibly beautiful, exposed climbing at Marmolada slab holes in closed compact, sometimes strongly overhanging, unstructured wall. Nerves of steel required. Extremely rewarding! One of the most beautiful test pieces in the Alps. In the Italian guidebook erroneously called "Terra ingognita". Read more on darshano.com in German or kletterblock.de

Start up the unprotected slab and reach the big crack under the roof. From there traverse left and then straight through the roof to a slopey topout. Cams from #0.2 to #5 or #6. Anchor to be built on a big tree on top, bring a short extra rope.

6c oblig.

Gear

twin set of Totem + #3 + #4 + small and mid-size wires

A burly offwidth that cuts across a steep roof above the middle tier of Cadarese.

PDF Topo

http://quartogrado.com/friuli/Fuart/244_Cima%20Grande%20della%20Scala_Epska%20Mavrica.htm

Gear:

double set bis 1, und cam 2 und cam 3

Gear:

set of Totem Cams to red + 1 micro

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/routes/recessione-globale-cima-cee.html

Technical route just below Skinwalker on the left. Starts in a blank corner (crux) and then follows a thin crack until the first anchor. Second anchor is still a project. Not much gear in some sections, be careful. British E7 6c

Hannes Schnitzer, Sepp Auer, Walter Obergolser, Pföstl Peter,

PDF Topo by Christoph Hainz

Semifreddo climbs to the left of the classic Via Piaz.

Gear:

Full rack, 14 quickdraws, cams, pegs, slings

Sul blocco più grande.

On the North West face of Civetta to the top of Punta Tissi.

Short trad route / boulder problem. 8mt

It starts as a #0.1 crack and widens to #0.4 at the top. The grade I guess can vary from 7b to 7c, depending on your finger size...

Bring at least two #0.1 micro friends for the start, a #0.2 and a #0.4. The rock is very solid but place the first pieces deep enough as the flake is quite thin there.

6b obbligatory in A1. Starts about 20m right of ARTEMISIA.

Gear:

2 ropes of 50 or 60m, a set of friends, microfriends, nuts

PDF Topo

7a obligatory

Si seguono le indicazioni per Monticolo e prima dell'Hotel Moser si prende a destra fino ad un piccolo parcheggio. Da qui a piedi seguendo sempre la strada sterrata forestale fino ad incontrare le antenne televisive della Rai, superarle e continuare per sentiero nel bosco tenendo il margine della parete sulla sinistra fino ad incontrare prima i cordoni di calata di Cojote; 100 m dopo, la corda fissa di Anrainerproblem. Discesa: di 40m su corda fissa fino al culmine del pilastro. NB. Controllare che sia in buono stato! Utile un bloccante (es. jumar) per risalirla al ritorno dalla via. 3 calate, di due tiri ciascuna, seguendo l’andamento in diagonale della via (utile rinviare friends e spit in calata).

1. 6c+. Boulder iniziale in fessura (proteggere subito con #1 BD), poi placca tecnica spittata, uscita in traverso a sx. (3 spit)

2. 6b+/c. In verticale, tutto da proteggere, per lo più con friend misure medio piccole.

3. 7b+, placca con tacche e lame verticali, seguire gli spit, uscita in fessura (friends medi, 6 spit)

4. 6b. Bella fessura netta verticale, poi traverso a destra per entrare nel camino fessurato, deviando a sinistra a metà. Attenzione a un grosso blocco instabile!

5. 7a+. Salire in verticale nel camino fino a rinviare il cordone al masso incastrato, poi a dx e di nuovo su a raggiungere un tettino, da superare prima alzandosi leggermente in fessura sul suo lato sinistro, poi traversando con passo aereo in orizzontale su buone prese (uno spit all’uscita del traverso). In fessura fino alla sosta.

6. 7a+. Raggiungere verticalmente l’evidente fessura prima molto stretta (friends micro/ dadi piccoli), poi più larga fino all’#1 BD, uscita su friends grossi.

(da https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2247&id_tipologia=38)

Deutsch:

http://www.alpenverein.it/de/kletterer-alpinisten/alpin/anrainerproblem-pfattner-wände-mitterberg-unterland-129_7985_151237.html

http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/trentino-suedtirol/keine-angabe/anrainerproblem

the finger crack in the centre of the wall.

http://www.simongietl.it/das-erbe-der-vaeter/

6c obligatory

7b obl. Bolts, pitons and slings