A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
MaM Nicola Beccu Fabrizio Tatti Christoph Rauch Peter Betz Robyclimb Peterarwin danisahni Oli Brad Hill
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Sulcis-Iglesiente
1325 in Crag
- 1.1. Santa Mariedda 16 in Crag
-
1.2.
Gutturu Pala 21 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Hollywood 17 in Crag
- 1.3. Ombre Rosse 27 in Crag
- 1.4. Superquartz 26 in Crag
- 1.5. Monte Onixeddu 14 in Crag
- 1.6. Capo Sandalo (Carloforte) 4 in Crag
-
1.7.
Masua / Scogliera di Masua 185 in Crag
-
1.7.1.
I torrioni 62 in Crag
- 1.7.1.1. Baila con Daphne (central sector) 18 in Sector
- 1.7.1.2. Baila con Daphne (top sector) 7 in Sector
- 1.7.1.3. Baila con Daphne (bottom sector) 4 in Sector
- 1.7.1.4. Brasileiro 9 in Sector
- 1.7.1.5. Torre Titti 4 in Sector
- 1.7.1.6. Torre sauron 6 in Sector
- 1.7.1.7. I Menhir 4 in Sector
- 1.7.1.8. Torricino alla Nocciola 4 in Sector
- 1.7.1.9. Il pentagono 6 in Sector
- 1.7.2. Wild Cadapria 21 in Crag
-
1.7.3.
Castello dell'Iride 98 in Crag
- 1.7.3.1. Masua Sea Cliffs "Sol Levante" 28 in Cliff
- 1.7.3.2. TNT/Grottino 9 in Sector
- 1.7.3.3. Castello dell Iride 36 in Sector
- 1.7.3.4. Placca del gigli marini 18 in Sector
- 1.7.3.5. Specchio del desiderio 7 in Sector
- 1.7.4. Pan di Zucchero 4 in Cliff
-
1.7.1.
I torrioni 62 in Crag
-
1.8.
Domusnovas Area 607 in Crag
- 1.8.1. Castilandia 15 in Crag
- 1.8.2. Cartoonia 20 in Crag
-
1.8.3.
La Piccola bottega degli Orrori / Zerolandia / Free Sex 30 in Crag
- 1.8.3.1. La Piccola Bottega degli Orrori 18 in Crag
- 1.8.3.2. Zerolandia 5 in Crag
- 1.8.3.3. Free Sex 7 in Crag
- 1.8.4. Sexy Shop 13 in Crag
- 1.8.5. Rifondazione Strapiombista 23 in Crag
- 1.8.6. Chinatown/Broadway 71 in Crag
- 1.8.7. Monte Acqua 2 in Area
-
1.8.8.
Arrampicantro Area 40 in Crag
- 1.8.8.1. L'Arrampicantro 20 in Sector
- 1.8.8.2. L'Isola degli Amici 12 in Sector
- 1.8.8.3. Puerto Escondido 8 in Sector
- 1.8.9. Canneland 41 in Crag
- 1.8.10. Bronx 18 in Crag
-
1.8.11.
Pescheria / Cineforum 29 in Crag
- 1.8.11.1. La Pescheria 13 in Crag
- 1.8.11.2. Cineforum 16 in Crag
- 1.8.12. Tana delle Tigri 30 in Crag
-
1.8.13.
Chemical Area / Baby Parking 25 in Crag
- 1.8.13.1. Chemical Area 16 in Crag
- 1.8.13.2. Baby Parking 9 in Crag
- 1.8.14. Castello di Betty 11 in Crag
- 1.8.15. Animal House 42 in Crag
-
1.8.16.
Ruota del Tempo 85 in Crag
- 1.8.16.1. Ruota di Scorta 9 in Sector
- 1.8.16.2. Ruota del Tempo 66 in Sector
- 1.8.16.3. Ruotino 10 in Sector
-
1.8.17.
Sherwood Area 73 in Crag
- 1.8.17.1. Bambini Francesi 6 in Sector
- 1.8.17.2. Sherwood 27 in Sector
- 1.8.17.3. Sherwood Kids 4 in Sector
- 1.8.17.4. Polo Negativo 11 in Sector
- 1.8.17.5. Pollo Positivo 25 in Cliff
- 1.8.18. Technicolor 28 in Crag
- 1.8.19. Placchissima Baraxiutta 11 in Crag
- 1.8.20. San Giovanni 0 in Crag
- 1.8.21. Villacidro 0 in Crag
-
1.9.
Buggerru 269 in Crag
-
1.9.1.
Gutturu Cardaxius 100 in Crag
- 1.9.1.1. Istentales 26 in Cliff
- 1.9.1.2. Sardus Pater 16 in Cliff
- 1.9.1.3. Il piccolo Canyon 20 in Cliff
- 1.9.1.4. Banana Republic (sideA) 13 in Crag
- 1.9.1.5. Banana Republic (sideB) 9 in Crag
- 1.9.1.6. Marangigio 16 in Cliff
- 1.9.2. Cuenca del Cabron 16 in Crag
-
1.9.3.
Canyon di San Nicolo 35 in Crag
- 1.9.3.1. Ficus area 12 in Sector
- 1.9.3.2. East Wall 4 in Crag
- 1.9.3.3. La Torre 3 in Crag
- 1.9.3.4. Sa Mesa 7 in Crag
- 1.9.3.5. Grotta dei nasi lunghi 7 in Crag
-
1.9.4.
Muro dei sogni 30 in Crag
- 1.9.4.1. Top sector 15 in Sector
- 1.9.4.2. Bottom Sector 15 in Sector
-
1.9.5.
Capo Pecora 59 in Crag
- 1.9.5.1. Big Ben 15 in Sector
- 1.9.5.2. Torre Straniera 9 in Sector
- 1.9.5.3. Big Bong 7 in Sector
- 1.9.5.4. Medusa Beach 3 in Sector
- 1.9.5.5. Pecora Puzzle 2 in Sector
- 1.9.5.6. Nel regno di Onan 14 in Sector
- 1.9.5.7. Shangai 4 in Sector
- 1.9.5.8. Terra promessa 3 in Sector
- 1.9.5.9. Nido dell'aquila 2 in Sector
- 1.9.6. Pranu Sartu 29 in Cliff
-
1.9.1.
Gutturu Cardaxius 100 in Crag
-
1.10.
Arenas 152 in Area
- 1.10.1. Zona Ztl 8 in Crag
- 1.10.2. Punta Pilocca 55 in Crag
- 1.10.3. Muro dei Folletti 19 in Crag
-
1.10.4.
Amante Stregata dal CAI 70 in Crag
- 1.10.4.1. Sarrano Famosi (East of the cave) 8 in Sector
- 1.10.4.2. Sarrano Famosi (West of the cave) 22 in Sector
- 1.10.4.3. Cinecitta 19 in Sector
- 1.10.4.4. C'era una Volta 11 in Sector
- 1.10.4.5. La Cantina 10 in Sector
- 1.11. Grotta dei Baci 4 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Sulcis-Iglesiente 1,325 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.216152, 8.452365
summary
Diedri irregolari on sand limestone
1.1. Santa Mariedda 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.227169, 8.687225
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Don Chisciotte | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 | Mulini a vento | 7a | 35m | |||
3 | Mal comune | 6c+ | 22m | |||
4 | Casu Marzu | 6b+ | 25m | |||
5 | Cattiva Bambina | 6b | 25m | |||
6 | Signor Somigli | 6b - c | 25m | |||
7 | Prendo il cinto! | 6a+ | 15m | |||
8 | Promesse da marinaio | 5b | 15m | |||
9 | Nonna Betty | 5c | 15m | |||
10 | Betty blues | 7a | 40m | |||
11 | Enfant terrible | 7b - c | 37m | |||
12 | Sempre per sempre | 7b | 30m | |||
13 | Presagio di guerra civile | 7a | 30m | |||
14 | By this river | 7b/b+ | 30m | |||
15 | Movimento sexi | 7a+ | 22m | |||
16 | Serial climber | 6c+ | 20m |
1.2. Gutturu Pala 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.408723, 8.517544
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Diversamente Giovani
FA: Maurizio Oviglia & Fabio Erriu, 2013 | 6b+ | 180m, 6 | |||
2 |
★★★ Personal Mountain
FA: Maurizio Oviglia, S.Carcangiu & C.Marchi, 1993 | 6c+ | 150m, 5 | |||
3 | Feltrini Nel Mondo | 160m | ||||
4 | Giamuro' | 6c | 120m, 5 |
1.2.1. Hollywood 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Star Strek | 6a+ | 15m | |||
2 | Cinema muto | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 | Di luce riflessa | 6b | 27m | |||
4 | Hey Jude | 6b+ | 27m | |||
5 | Polaris | 6c | 32m | |||
6 | Scendi dalle stelle | 7b | 32m | |||
7 | Calliope | 7b | 32m | |||
8 | Ulisse | 7a+ | 32m | |||
9 | Turista fai da te | 7a | 32m | |||
10 | Intermittenze del cuore | 7a+ | 32m | |||
11 | Le relazioni pericolose | 7b | 35m | |||
12 | Io ti faccio del male | 7c+ | 35m | |||
13 | Virtual love | 15m | ||||
14 | La strategia del silenzio | 7b | 30m | |||
15 | Andromeda | 25m | ||||
16 | S'arampica | 20m | ||||
17 | Agonia | 8a | 15m |
1.3. Ombre Rosse 27 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.320990, 8.573384
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ama la vita
the leftmost route | 5a+ | 25m | |||
2 | ★ Ouverture | 6a | 20m | |||
3 | Ravi Shankar | 6c | 20m | |||
4 | Bonjour tristesse | 7a | 20m | |||
5 | Cinquanta e lode! | 6b | 20m | |||
6 | Trenta e lode! | 6c+ | 10m | |||
7 | Coome | 6c | 7m | |||
8 |
Lara
Start polished | 6a+ | 15m | |||
9 | Stella polare | 7b | 15m | |||
10 |
★★ Simply Red
FA: M. Oviglia, 1987 | 6b+ | 15m | |||
11 | Onde rosse | 7c | 15m | |||
12 | L'alligator | 6c+ | 15m | |||
13 | ★★ L'Alpinista | 5c+ | 17m | |||
14 | Il ritorno di mazzuccheddu | 6a | 10m | |||
15 | Retourn to fantasy | 5c+ | 12m | |||
16 | Radio Baghdad | 6c+ | 10m | |||
17 | ★★ Nicotina | 7a | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Cua Cua | 6b | 20m | |||
19 | ★★ Bat for breakfast | 6c | 20m | |||
20 | Tutti a casa | 6b | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Pirochi | 6a+ | 20m | |||
22 |
★ Estiomene
FA: G.L. Piras, 1991 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
23 | La cattiva strada | 7c | 20m | |||
24 | Pussy power | 8a | 15m | |||
25 |
★ Versetti Satanici
FA: M. Oviglia, 1995 | 7b | 15m | |||
26 | Zipo | 6a+ | 20m | |||
27 | Mafalda | 5b | 20m |
1.4. Superquartz 26 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.278698, 8.476479
summary
A well weathered crag with mostly large holds.
approach
Exit Gonnesa by Via Amendola in direction of Monte San Giovanni.
history
In initially developed by Maurizio Oviglia.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Haiku
Set: Maurizio Oviglia | 6b+ | 20m | |||
2 |
★★ Durango
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Dec 2022 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 |
★★★ 1000 Papaveri Rossi
Set: Maurizio Oviglia | 5a | 30m | |||
4 |
Ronchionissima
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, 2022 | 5b | 30m | |||
5 |
Sottovento
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Mar 2022 | 4c | 30m | |||
6 |
Kryptonite
FA: Maurizio Oviglia, Dec 2022 | 4c | 20m | |||
7 |
Dulce de Leche
Set: Maurizio Oviglia & A. Iaria, Feb 2023 | 6a+ | 17m | |||
8 |
★★★ Gengis
FA: Maurizio Oviglia & A. Iani | 6b | 17m | |||
9 |
Pancho Villa
Set: Maurizio Oviglia & S. Sarti, Mar 2023 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
10 |
Viva Zapata!
FA: Maurizio Oviglia & A. Aguirre, Dec 2022 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
11 |
Un onesto Delinquente
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Jan 2023 | 6a | 20m | |||
12 |
Il Soffitto de Cristallo
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Mar 2023 | 7b | 17m | |||
13 |
★★★ Stratocaster
Set: Maurizio Oviglia & A. Iaria, Mar 2023 | 6c | 17m | |||
14 |
Chemistry
Set: Maurizio Oviglia | 6c+ | 17m | |||
15 |
Mia
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Mar 2023 | 7a | 20m | |||
16 |
★★★ Gargoyle
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Mar 2023 | 5b | 20m | |||
17 |
Avanzi on the Rock
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Mar 2023 | 5b | 20m | |||
18 |
Pabassinas
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Apr 2023 | 5a | 23m | |||
19 |
★★ Baci da Kyoto
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Apr 2023 | 5a | 20m | |||
20 |
Fragili Fiori
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, May 2023 | 15m | ||||
21 |
I due Leocorni
Set: A. Iaria | 6a+ | 15m | |||
22 |
Ginseng
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, May 2023 | 5c | 23m | |||
23 |
S'Anninnia
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Jun 2023 | 6b | 15m | |||
24 |
La Crime nella Pioggia
Set: Maurizio Oviglia, Jun 2023 | 6c | 15m | |||
25 |
Il Lentischio Incantato
Set: Maurizio Oviglia & A. Iaria, Jun 2023 | 6b | 15m | |||
26 |
La Tasca Nascosta
Set: Maurizio Oviglia & A. Iaria, Jun 2023 | 6a+ | 20m |
1.5. Monte Onixeddu 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.259970, 8.493939
summary
A small crag but some really classy lines. Most of the routes start with a steep tufa and then finish on a face/slab. Shade for most of the day in autumn/winter. Some holds a bit damp.
approach
Park at the large complex of ruined buildings on a good grassy parking spot. Walk up the road, going left at the hairpin bend, then right when the road forks. After about 10 minutes you should see the crag on your right. Scramble up following the established foot pad.
where to stay
You're probably fine to camp at the parking. It's quiet and in the forest, though there seem to be some houses nearby. Be respectful.
history
Mostly bolted in 1991.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dragone | 6c | 17m | |||
2 | I tre orsi | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Riccioli d'oro | 6a+ | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Nuvole blu | 6b | 12m | |||
5 | ★★ Fachiro magianti il tiro | 6b - c | 12m | |||
6 | ★★★ Macedonia | 6c+ | 17m | |||
7 | I visitatori | 7a+ | 17m | |||
8 | Uarrgh | 7a | 17m | |||
9 | Ti Spezzi le braccine | 6c+ | 18m | |||
10 | ★★★ Dafne nel paese del vento | 6b+ | 18m | |||
11 | ★★★ Buonasera, sono il conte Dracula | 6c+ | 18m | |||
12 | Buongiorno, sono Nicco | 7a | 18m | |||
13 | Poesia | 6c+ | 20m | |||
14 | Aragosta tosta | 7a | 20m |
1.6. Capo Sandalo (Carloforte) 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.146951, 8.225343
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Fragile
FA: Oviglia, 2001 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
2 |
★★★ Stormy monday blues
FA: Oviglia, 2001 | 6b+ | 22m | |||
3 |
★★★ Luna Blu
FA: Oviglia, 2001 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
4 |
★★★ Luna Rossa
FA: Oviglia, 2001 | 6b | 25m |
1.7. Masua 185 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.332913, 8.419057
1.7.1. I torrioni 62 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.330710, 8.436701
1.7.1.1. Baila con Daphne (central sector) 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.330960, 8.437994
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Cumbia
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6a | 17m | |||
2 |
Tobas
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b | 20m | |||
3 |
★ Cancion
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6a | 20m | |||
4 |
Polka
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b+ | 14m | |||
5 |
★★★ Tango
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b | 17m | |||
6 |
Salsa
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6c | 17m | |||
7 |
Mazurka
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b+ | 17m | |||
8 |
Twist
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6c | 18m | |||
9 |
★★★ Merengue
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6a+ | 17m | |||
10 |
Funky
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 7a+ | 17m | |||
11 |
Hip Hop
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 7b | 20m | |||
12 |
★★ Mambo
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 7a | 20m | |||
13 |
Boogie
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
14 |
★★★ Samba
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
15 |
Rumba
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b | 25m | |||
16 |
Tinku
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b+ | 24m | |||
17 |
Macarena
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b | 17m | |||
18 |
Menehito
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6c+ | 17m |
1.7.1.2. Baila con Daphne (top sector) 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sirtaki | 6a+ | 18m | |||
2 | Cha-cha-cha | 6b+ | 23m | |||
3 | Fox-trot | 6c | 23m | |||
4 | Rock 'n roll | 7a | 23m | |||
5 | Valzer | 6b | 25m | |||
6 | Lambada | 6a+ | 20m | |||
7 | Rhytm & Blues | 6a | 23m |
1.7.1.3. Baila con Daphne (bottom sector) 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hula hula | 6a+ | 17m | |||
2 | Jazz | 7a | 16m | |||
3 | Moderna | 6c/c+ | 17m | |||
4 | Classica | 6b | 17m |
1.7.1.4. Brasileiro 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.331136, 8.436270
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Frevo
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6a+ | 17m | |||
2 |
Bossa Nova
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
3 |
Capoeira
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
4 |
Maracatu
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6b | 20m | |||
5 |
Pagode
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6b | 20m | |||
6 |
Axè
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
7 |
Forrò
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6c | 20m | |||
8 |
★★ Bachata
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6a | 23m | |||
9 |
★★ Milonga
FA: F. Bassone & B. Fonnesu, 2004 | 6a | 27m |
1.7.1.5. Torre Titti 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Viava | 5c+ | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Machu Picchu | 6a+ | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ Gocce d'acciaio | 6a | 30m | |||
4 | ★★★ Omino bianco | 6b | 25m |
1.7.1.6. Torre sauron 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Safer sex | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 | Cane birba | 6b+ | 13m | |||
3 | I sogni di Mattia | 6c | 13m | |||
4 | ★★★ Creux poplite | 6b+ | 12m | |||
5 | ★★★ Ichnusa | 6b | 12m | |||
6 | Orkan | 7b | 12m |
1.7.1.7. I Menhir 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Il ritorno dell'inca | 6b | 11m | |||
2 | Menhir | 6c+ | 11m | |||
3 | Fusion | 6c+ | 11m | |||
4 | Pensame mucho | 5c | 10m |
1.7.1.8. Torricino alla Nocciola 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Piccoli brividi | 6a - b | 12m | |||
2 | Magatello | 6b | 12m | |||
3 | Sali sali carognetta | 6a+ | 12m | |||
4 | Dedicata a Luigi | 6a | 12m |
1.7.1.9. Il pentagono 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mistral | 17m | ||||
2 | Feistus raclettus | 7c+ | 15m | |||
3 | Discipline | 15m | ||||
4 | Guernica | 7b+ | 10m | |||
5 | Sun rock | 5c | 10m | |||
6 | Winter dream | 5c | 10m |
1.7.2. Wild Cadapria 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.340812, 8.415476
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cochise | 7a | 11m | |||
2 | Furia Selvaggia | 7b+ | 11m | |||
3 | Geronimo | 7b | 13m | |||
4 | Il cavaliere pallido | 7a+ | 13m | |||
5 | Giu' la testa | 7b | 16m | |||
6 | Un uomo chiamato cavallo | 6b+ | 18m | |||
7 | Assalto alla diligenza | 6c | 18m | |||
8 | Corvo rosso | 7a | 17m | |||
9 | Non avrai il mio scalpo | 7a+ | 18m | |||
10 | Sierra chiarriba | 7b - c | 20m | |||
11 | Doc Holliday | 7b+ | 20m | |||
12 | Wyatt Earp | 7c+/8a | 25m | |||
13 | Dio perdona, io no | 25m | ||||
14 | Billy the kid | 6c+ | 26m | |||
15 | Il mucchio selvaggio | 6c+ | 30m | |||
16 | Pat Garrett | 7a/a+ | 24m | |||
17 | Per un pugno di dollari | 6a+ | 30m | |||
18 | per qualche dollaro in piu | 6b+ | 32m | |||
19 | Vento di terre lontane | 6c | 30m | |||
20 | Il buono, il brutto, il cattivo | 7b | 27m | |||
21 | C'era una volta il west | 6c+ | 25m |
1.7.3. Castello dell'Iride 98 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.337268, 8.409995
|
1.7.3.1. Masua Sea Cliffs "Sol Levante" 28 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.336958, 8.409361
description
Mehrseillänge Touren direkt am Meer
approach
Zustieg dem Weg entlang bis zur Mine, Aufstieg zur Zementmauer zum Mineneingang. Der Weg ist gegeben je nach Tour die man klettern möchte
descent notes
Abseilen über die Routen, je nach Beschreibung oder es besteht auch die Möglichkeit herunterzulaufen
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dolce Sardo | 6b+ | 90m, 4 | |||||
2 | No name | 7a | 60m, 2 | |||||
3 | Nuccio e la 500 | 7a+ | 110m, 5 | |||||
4 | ★★ Dietro delle mie brame | 6b+ | 90m, 3 | |||||
5 | L'Italia liberata | 5c+ | 110m, 4 | |||||
6 | Abbi dubbi | 6b | 70m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★★ Le Grand Mammuth (5c obl.)
Abtieg, entweder abseilen oder herunterlaufen, es besteht ein Wanderweg zum Klettergarten zurück FA: B. Fonnesu, 2012 | 6a+ | 150m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★★★ A Scuola Dal Basso (6a obl.)
Abstieg über die Route oder über den Wanderweg zum Klettergarten FA: M. Oviglia, 2002 | 6b+ | 160m, 6 | |||||
9 | Chi non ha testa... ha gambe! | 6a | 150m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★★ Pulp Fiction (6a obl.)
Abstieg über die Route oder über den Wanderweg zum Klettergarten FA: M. Oviglia & G. Caddeo, 2004 | 6b+ | 120m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Non Spezzarmi IL, Cuore (6a obl.)
Abstieg über die Route oder über den Wanderweg zum Klettergarten
| 6b+ | 130m, 5 | |||||
12 | ★★★ Arancia Meccanica | 6c | 130m, 5 | |||||
13 | Kill Bill | 6b | 140m, 4 | |||||
14 | Eppure il vento soffia ancora | 6b+ | 140m, 5 | |||||
15 | Garfield | 6c+ | 120m, 5 | |||||
16 | Hard o Soft? | 6b+ | 150m, 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 | ★★ Acciughe e bottarga | 6a | 160m, 5 | |||||
18 | Megaminimondo | 6b+ | 170m, 6 | |||||
19 |
Capitani coraggiosi
First two pitches are the approach for all the futher routes | 7a+ | 190m, 5 | |||||
20 | Anarchia e dolcezza | 6c | 150m, 5 | |||||
21 | Paesaggi immaginari | 7c | 150m, 5 | |||||
22 | Tukafezzalite | 6c | 170m, 5 | |||||
23 | La banda del buco | 5b | 210m | |||||
24 | Uot e Lain | 7c | 130m, 5 | |||||
25 | Pan di sale | 6b | 80m, 3 | |||||
26 | I cavalieri dell'apocalisse | 7b | 130m, 7 | |||||
27 | Metafisica della qualità | 6c A0 | 190m, 7 | |||||
28 | Nonna Irene | 6b+ | 80m, 3 |
1.7.3.2. TNT/Grottino 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Yosemitica | 6c | 8m | |||
2 | Dolomitica | 6b | 8m | |||
3 | Magnetica | 7a | 8m | |||
4 | Bisbetica | 7a+ | 8m | |||
5 | ★★ Ma va la, migliacco! | 6a+ | 28m | |||
6 | TNT | 6b | 30m | |||
7 | Chi non vola e un vile | 7a | 30m | |||
8 | Chi vola vale | 6c | 25m | |||
9 | Chi vive vola | 6c | 25m |
1.7.3.3. Castello dell Iride 36 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.338093, 8.411697
1.7.3.4. Placca del gigli marini 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.338093, 8.411994
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brava Brava! | 5c | 10m | |||||
2 | Fisso | 5c+ | 10m | |||||
3 | Cane Blobly | 6a | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Down by law | 6a | 25m | |||||
5 | ★★ Blatoon | 6a | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★ Non desiderare la donna d'altri | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
7 | ★ Fatima | 6b | 25m | |||||
8 | I sogni di Francesca | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
9 | Pistilloni Arrenegau | 6c | 28m | |||||
10 | Super Ossi Louigo | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
11 | Lebordei | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
12 | ★★ Atocha Madrid | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
13 | ★★ 6B-ellissima | 6b | 25m | |||||
14 | ★★ Goku SS 3 | 5c | 25m | |||||
15 | ★★★ Cagotta | 5b | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★ Ghoan | 5a | 20m | |||||
17 | ★★ Goten | 5b | 17m | |||||
18 | ★★ Il dono dell'Obliquita | 5a | 20m |
1.7.3.5. Specchio del desiderio 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Camilla strilla | 6a - b | 35m | |||
2 | ★★ Future women | 6a | 20m | |||
3 | Red sunset | 6b - c | 35m | |||
4 | Tramonto rosso | 7c | 35m | |||
5 | Tramonto rosso diretta | 8a | 35m | |||
6 | Alba tragica | 6a+ | 20m | |||
7 | Lovely lycia | 6b+ | 30m |
1.7.4. Pan di Zucchero 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.333982, 8.399816
description
approach
Gotta get there by boat, it's an island! During summer time there is a taxi boat service operated by the bar on the Masua beach.
descent notes
You can walk down following the easy Via Ferrata or you can abseil/rappel down a gap in the rock which leads to the inner part of the southern cave (40 mt rappel landing directly onto the boat).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Didi | 6b | 120m, 4 | |||
2 | L'incubo di Francesco | 6a | 50m, 2 | |||
3 | Radio a galena | 5c | 70m, 3 | |||
4 | Old Tropicoasi | 5c+ | 90m, 3 |
1.8. Domusnovas Area 607 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.346164, 8.622624
1.8.1. Castilandia 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.332596, 8.625782
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ La caviglia che mi stressa
FFA: Cinzia Meloni, 1998 | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | ★ Pigrizia mentale | 5b | 15m | |||
3 | ★★ Meglio tardi che mai | 5b | 15m | |||
4 | ★ Mazinka z | 5a | 20m | |||
5 |
★★ Acqua a volontà
FFA: D. Setzu & W. Mannu, 1998 | 5c | 15m | |||
6 |
★★ Cavallino rampante
FFA: Massimo Gessa, 1998 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
7 | ★★★ Eolo | 6b | 15m | |||
8 | ★★ Il mio sole | 6c | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Secondo dito | 6c | 20m | |||
10 | ★★★ Tortura cinese | 7b | 23m | |||
11 | ★★★ Harakiri | 7a+ | 23m | |||
12 | ★★★ Risveglio dal letargo | 6b+ | 20m | |||
13 | ★★★ Sblattox | 6c | 25m | |||
14 | ★★ O zurru | 6b+ | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ La pesca, che passione | 6b | 25m |
1.8.2. Cartoonia 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.334694, 8.617353
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Acquaman | 6a+ | 25m | |||
2 | ★★ I magnifici tre | 6b+ | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ Mickey Mouse | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Matley fai qualcosa | 6a | 25m | |||
5 | Coccode dei sogni | 6b | 25m | |||
6 | ★★ Pingu | 5c | 25m | |||
7 | ★★ Tantor | 5c+ | 20m | |||
8 | Paperon de'paperoni | 6a+ | 20m | |||
9 | ★★ Jeeg | 6a | 20m | |||
10 | ★★ Titti | 6a | 20m | |||
11 | Speedy Gonzales | 6a+ | 20m | |||
12 | ★★ L'uomo Tigre | 6b | 20m | |||
13 | ★★ Squadra avvoltoi | 6a+ | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ Bugs bunny | 6b | 25m | |||
15 | Conan | 6b | 20m | |||
16 | Gatto Silvestro | 6c+ | 20m | |||
17 | Nick Carter | 7b+ | 20m | |||
18 | Tom & Jerry | 7a | 20m | |||
19 | Stanislavao Mulinsky | 7a | 20m | |||
20 | Diabolik | 6c+ | 20m |
1.8.3. La Piccola bottega degli Orrori / Zerolandia / Free Sex 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.338794, 8.621186
1.8.3.1. La Piccola Bottega degli Orrori 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Super Giovane | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | Viale Poetto | 6b+ | 10m | |||
3 | La Prima Volta | 6c+ | 10m | |||
4 | Ottusangolo | 7a | 10m | |||
5 | 21 anni, 29 giorni | 5a | 10m | |||
6 | Actarus | 6a+ | 10m | |||
7 | Pasta Fresca | 6a | 10m | |||
8 | Il mago del computer | 6b | 12m | |||
9 | Mitica Rossa | 6a+ | 12m | |||
10 | Rebel Way | 6b - c | 15m | |||
11 | Zero Spakkato | 6a | 15m | |||
12 | Maledetta Via | 6c | 15m | |||
13 | Su Carru 'e Boi | 6a+ | 15m | |||
14 | Tapis Roulant | 5b | 15m | |||
15 | Tarcisio | 6b | 15m | |||
16 | Dormi Preoccupato | 6c | 20m | |||
17 | Ma Quanto Ne So! | 7a+ | 20m | |||
18 | Aiu Redy | 6b | 20m |
1.8.3.2. Zerolandia 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Spazio Zero | 6c | 10m | |||
2 | L'Aria del Mattino | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 | Déjà vu | 6c+ | 15m | |||
4 | You | 7a+ | 15m | |||
5 | Mater Mediterranea | 6b+ | 15m |
1.8.3.3. Free Sex 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Punto G | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 | Makumba | 7c+ | 25m | |||
3 | Chevron | 20m | ||||
4 | Virus | 7b+ | 15m | |||
5 | Bisex | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 | Stati | 6c+ | 25m | |||
7 | Corta | 6b+ | 15m |
1.8.4. Sexy Shop 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.339284, 8.622486
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Durex | 7c+ | 30m | |||
2 | Dildo | 7b+ | 30m | |||
3 | Lattex | 25m | ||||
4 | John Holmes | 25m | ||||
5 | Big Bamboo | 25m | ||||
6 | Heather Brooke | 7b+ | 25m | |||
7 | Sexy Shop | 7c/c+ | 35m | |||
8 | Cialis | 7c+ | 20m | |||
9 | Viagra | 7b | 18m | |||
10 | Una Tassa e Abba e una Passara e Minca | 6c+ | 15m | |||
11 | Bosko Dai | 6a | 15m | |||
12 | Boski Rigo | 5c | 10m | |||
13 | Cicciolina | 6a+ - 7a | 2 |
1.8.5. Rifondazione Strapiombista 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.339921, 8.622624
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Il vecchio stalinista | 6b | 20m | |||
2 | Il gattocomunista | 7b+ | 20m | |||
3 | T34 | 7c+ | 20m | |||
4 | Kalashnikov | 6b - c | 25m | |||
5 | Figlio di Putin | 6c+ | 25m | |||
6 | Vodka | 7a | 25m | |||
7 | Luxuria | 6c | 25m | |||
8 | ★★★ 68 asino cotto | 6b+ | 30m | |||
9 | Hasta siempre | 7a+ | 30m | |||
10 | Kurdistan | 7a | 30m | |||
11 | Song for Che | 6c+ | 25m | |||
12 | Matrioska multijet | 6a - b | 25m | |||
13 | Cometa rossa | 7a+ | 30m | |||
14 | Kolyma | 7b+ | 30m | |||
15 | ★★★ Soviet | 6b | 20m | |||
16 | Palombella rossa | 7a+/b | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Rosso di sera | 7b | 35m | |||
18 | Credere e non credere | 7a+ | 25m | |||
19 | Sol dell'avvenire | 7b+ | 35m | |||
20 | Facciamoci del male | 7c | 35m | |||
21 | KGB | 5c+ | 20m | |||
22 | Gagarin | 6a | 25m | |||
23 | CCCP | 7a+ | 35m |
1.8.6. Chinatown/Broadway 71 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.340484, 8.623114
1.8.6.1. Chinatown 57 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.340401, 8.623021
approach
Park at Chiesa di San Giovanni. Walk about 10 min uphill then go left where you follow a path in serpentines uphill again. on the 4. bend follow the path left hand site. You will reach the crag in ca. 20 min from the car park.
1.8.6.2. Broadway 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.340821, 8.623489
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Nevaiorche | 5c | 15m | |||||
2 | ★★ Happy days | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
3 | Cats | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
4 | ★★ West side story | 6a+ | 32m | |||||
5 | ★★ Blues brothers | 6b | 35m | |||||
6 | Il fantasma dell'opera | 6c | 30m | |||||
7 | Moulin rouge | 7a | 30m | |||||
8 | Il colora viola | 7a | 30m | |||||
9 | Flashdance | 6b - c | 20m | |||||
10 | Notre dame | 32m | ||||||
11 | Rocky horror show | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
12 | ★★ Grease | 6c+ | 32m | |||||
13 | Hair | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
14 | Chorus line | 6c | 35m | |||||
|
1.8.7. Monte Acqua 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.337832, 8.628825
summary
Multipitch area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ C’era una volta
Beautiful route with good rock. The first pitch feels very easy. The crux pitch is on a slab, and the last pitch is fun overhanging and juggy. It can be climbed as two pitches with a 70m rope maybe even a 50m rope because we were able to abseil it with two rappels and rope to spare on two 50 meter ropes. FA: Mocci e Oviglia | 6a | 90m, 5, 10 | |||
2 |
Soft Grit
Set: Mocci & Oviglia | 5b | 110m, 5 |
1.8.8. Arrampicantro Area 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.337537, 8.627314
1.8.8.1. L'Arrampicantro 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.337338, 8.627037
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Risky business | 6b | 20m | |||
2 | ★ Free Tibet | 6b+ | 25m | |||
3 | E spacca + farlc | 7b | 25m | |||
4 | Seneca | 6c+ | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Lovely sun | 6b+ | 15m | |||
6 | Meskinhead | 6b | 15m | |||
7 | ★★ Pastamatic | 6a+ | ||||
8 | ★★★ Tropicoasi | 6c+ | 20m | |||
9 | Il sosia | 7b+ | 20m | |||
10 | Strepido | 6c+ | 20m | |||
11 | Su panetteri | 6b+ | 12m | |||
12 | Titra-titra | 6c+ | 10m | |||
13 | Farlc | 6c+ | 10m | |||
14 | Il caffe mi rende nervoso | 7a+ | 20m | |||
15 | ★★★ Nuovo sole | 6a/a+ | 20m | |||
16 | ★★ Falky Sekky | 5b | 20m | |||
17 | ★★★ La progressione dell'illuso | 6b+ | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ L'illusione dell progresso | 6a | 15m | |||
19 | ★★★ Tric trac Bamboloni | 5c | 15m | |||
20 | Correnzo | 5b | 15m |
1.8.8.2. L'Isola degli Amici 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.337500, 8.627248
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fanciobi | 5a | 20m | |||
2 | ★★★ Cino | 6a+ | 22m | |||
3 | Mabixedda | 5c+ | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Zanfretta | 5c | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Davandro | 6a | 25m | |||
6 | ★★★ Zia | 5c+ | 20m | |||
7 | ★★ Agratis | 5a | 17m | |||
8 | ★ Rotizia | 6a+ | ||||
9 | ★★ Carritta | 5c | ||||
10 | Piccoli mei | 5a | 12m | |||
11 | Nonno | 4b | 15m | |||
12 |
★ Faccoddai
the rightmost route of this sector | 5a | 15m |
1.8.8.3. Puerto Escondido 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.337676, 8.627516
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Prati dove sei | 4c | ||||
2 | Maragotti | 5b | ||||
3 | ★★ Tengo famiglia | 5c | ||||
4 | ★★ Namaste | 6a | ||||
5 | ★★★ Il Picchio dei miracoli | 5c | 20m | |||
6 | ★★ Naranjo, naranjo | 6a | 20m | |||
7 | ★★ Pispola | 5c | 20m | |||
8 | ★★★ Katanta | 6a | 20m |
1.8.9. Canneland 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.336950, 8.627536
1.8.10. Bronx 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.342540, 8.627750
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Trauma | 6c | 10m | |||
2 | ★★★ Bai osama! | 8a+ | 15m | |||
3 | ★★★ Underground | 7c+ | 20m | |||
4 | ★★★ Oltretomba | 8c | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ La casa degli orrori | 8a+ | 20m, 2 | |||
6 | ★★ Tex | 7c+ | 12m | |||
7 | ★★★ Death row | 8c+ | 12m | |||
8 | ★★★ Alta tensione | 12m | ||||
9 | ★★★ Nel futuro prossimo venturo | 8b+ | 12m | |||
10 |
★★★ Marina
FFA: Adam Ondra, 2007 | 8c+ | 20m | |||
11 |
★★★ Marina Superstar
FFA: Adam Ondra, 2009 | 9b | 35m, 2 | |||
12 | ★★ Jason x | 25m | ||||
13 | L'urlo | 25m | ||||
14 | Campo con corvi | 9a | 25m | |||
15 | Agnostic front | 8a | 25m | |||
16 | War | 8b | 20m | |||
17 | Frigobar | 6c | 20m | |||
18 | Kamikaze | 6c+ | 20m |
1.8.11. Pescheria / Cineforum 29 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.342393, 8.627581
1.8.11.1. La Pescheria 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.342412, 8.627229
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Scorpula
FA: Gessa/Oviglia, 2007 | 6a | 15m | |||
2 |
★★ Skualetto
FA: Gessa/Oviglia, 2007 | 6b | 15m | |||
3 |
★★ Rana pescatrice
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 6b+ | 15m | |||
4 |
★★ Fish and chips
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 6b | 15m | |||
5 |
★★ Calamaro gigante
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 7a | 15m | |||
6 |
★★ Zio cernia
FA: Gessa/Oviglia, 2007 | 7a+ | 15m | |||
7 |
★★ Sampei
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 6c | 15m | |||
8 |
★ Moby dick
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 6b+ | 15m | |||
9 |
★★ Pesce pagliaccio
FA: Gessa, 2005 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 |
★★ Cozze
FA: Gessa, 2005 | 6a | 15m | |||
11 |
★★ Arselle
FA: Gessa, 2005 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
12 |
★ Pesce fuor d'acqua
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 5c | 15m | |||
13 |
★ Pruppu Giudeu
FA: Gessa/Zurru, 1998 | 5b | 15m |
1.8.11.2. Cineforum 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.342308, 8.627812
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Guerre stellari | 6c | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ La vita è bella | 6a | 20m | |||
3 | ★★ Gli intoccabili | 6b+ | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Forrest Gump | 6b | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ La tigre e la neve | 6b | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ I vitelloni | 6c+ | 15m | |||
7 | ★★ Il miglio verde | 6b | 15m | |||
8 | ★★★ Profondo rosso | 6c+ | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Rambo | 6c | 15m | |||
10 | ★★★ Paris Texas | 7a+ | 15m | |||
11 | ★★★ Caccia all'ottobre rosso | 6c+ | 15m | |||
12 | ★★★ Blow | 6c+ | 15m | |||
13 | ★★★ Chocolat | 7a+ | 15m | |||
14 | ★★★ Top gun | 7a | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ Intelligenza arificiale | 6b | 15m | |||
16 | ★★ Quo vadis? | 5b | 15m |
1.8.12. Tana delle Tigri 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.342945, 8.629661
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | L'elefante bianco | 7a | 25m | |||
2 | Overdose | 7c+ | 12m | |||
3 | Fratellini Chimici | 8a | 15m | |||
4 | Incubistavolta | 8b | 25m | |||
5 | Charas | 8b+ | 10m | |||
6 | Superhoffmann | 7c+ | 10m | |||
7 | Ice cube | 7c | 15m | |||
8 | Il pifferaio allucinogeno | 7a+ | 12m | |||
9 | Estrapolazioni | 7b | 15m | |||
10 | Nasi bianchi | 7c+/8a | 15m | |||
11 | Crazy diamond | 7b | 10m | |||
12 | Mr. Baba | 8a+ | 10m, 2 | |||
13 | Allucinazioni da trip | 7a+ | 10m | |||
14 | Caracas | 7a | 15m | |||
15 | ★★★ Colombina | 7a+ | 12m | |||
16 | Mental hour | 7a/a+ | 15m | |||
17 | Thor | 20m | ||||
18 | Sangue sardo | 8a | 20m | |||
19 | Arafat | 7b+ | 20m | |||
20 | Roller zia | 7a | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Castelli tra le Nuvole | 7a | 18m | |||
22 | ★★★ Punkabbestia | 7a | 20m | |||
23 | America assassina | 6a+ | 15m | |||
24 |
★★ Narco test
right exit with 'Castelli tra le Nuvole' (6c) ; Left exit with 'Om Nama Shivaya'(7b) | 6c - 7b | 20m | |||
25 | OM nama shivaya | 7c | 25m | |||
26 | OM | 8a+ | 25m | |||
27 | Il tiranno dei mundo | 8b | 25m | |||
28 | Tirannino | 7a+ | 15m | |||
29 | Straccio | 6c+/7a | 20m | |||
30 | Secchio | 6b+ | 20m |
1.8.13. Chemical Area / Baby Parking 25 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.343590, 8.629118
1.8.13.1. Chemical Area 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Piccolo tossico | 6a+ | 15m | |||
2 | Cannadipendenza | 5c | 15m | |||
3 | Fish | 6a | 15m | |||
4 | Crostino chimico | 7a | 12m | |||
5 | Fido dido | 6c+ | 18m | |||
6 | Effetti collaterali | 7a+ | 20m | |||
7 | After hours | 7b | 22m | |||
8 | Speed ball | 7b | 25m | |||
9 | Trip di svasi | 7a+ | 25m | |||
10 | M.D.M.A. | 6b+ | 27m | |||
11 | Trainspotting | 7a | 27m | |||
12 | Coca club | 7b | 20m | |||
13 | Madre superiora | 7a+ | 20m | |||
14 | Nagual Carlos | 7c | 15m | |||
15 | Dopamina | 6c+ | 15m | |||
16 | Negrita | 7a | 20m |
1.8.13.2. Baby Parking 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Zero Sesso | 5c | 27m | |||
2 | A nanna presto | 6a | 27m | |||
3 | Coca-cola club | 6a | 27m | |||
4 | ★ Casa & chiesa | 5a | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Dieta, corsa & pannello | 5a | 15m | |||
6 | ★★★ Piccolo grande amore | 6a/a+ | 15m | |||
7 | La Zingara | 4c | 15m | |||
8 | Piccole donne | 6a+ | 12m | |||
9 | Piccolo uomo | 6a | 12m |
1.8.14. Castello di Betty 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.342728, 8.628907
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pagu genti bona festa | 6c | 15m | |||
2 | Andai a mari e non agattai aqua | 6b+ | 15m | |||
3 | Quattro e una figurina | 6c | 15m | |||
4 | Pezz'e 'na quaglia! | 5c+ | 15m | |||
5 | Pappu, buffu e mind'affuttu | 6a | 15m | |||
6 | Centu concas centus berritas | 6b+ | 15m | |||
7 | Farra po fai ostia | 7a | 22m | |||
8 | ★ A pagai e a morri cest sempri tempus | 5c+ | 15m | |||
9 | Imparai su babbu a fai fillus | 6c | 25m | |||
10 | Genti mala non ndi morit | 7a | 25m | |||
11 | Mellus dolori de bussa che de coru | 6c | 25m |
1.8.15. Animal House 42 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.346568, 8.629091
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brutto anatroccolo | 5b | 12m | |||
2 | La pecorina | 6b+ | 12m | |||
3 | Pecora nera | 7b/b+ | 12m | |||
4 | Grillo | 7c+ | 12m | |||
5 | Pulce | 12m | ||||
6 | Zanzarita | 7a | 10m | |||
7 | Mambat | 8a | 10m | |||
8 | Sententzia | 8a | 15m | |||
9 | Mosca cieca | 7b+ | 20m | |||
10 | Bip bip | 6b+ | 20m | |||
11 | Puzzola | 6c | 20m | |||
12 | Porcospino | 6c+ | 20m | |||
13 | attenti al lupo | 6c | 15m | |||
14 | Cammelli metropolitani | 6c+ | 15m | |||
15 | ★★★ Il topo sovrastutturale | 7b | 15m | |||
16 | Kangooroad | 7a+ | 15m | |||
17 | Il canto de cigno | 8a | 7m | |||
18 | ★ Lo zoo di Enzo | 6b+ | 20m | |||
19 | Giovane Leone | 7a+ | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Le lézard bleu | 6c | 12m | |||
21 | Babbaiola | 6b+ | 12m | |||
22 | Tigre contro Tigre | 6c | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Delfini in amore | 6a | 10m | |||
24 | La pulce strillina | 6b | 22m | |||
25 | ★ Topastro | 6c+ | 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Hot dog | 6c | 20m | |||
27 | Felix | 7a+ | 20m | |||
28 | Ragno blu | 7b | 20m | |||
29 | T. Rex | 7b+ | 20m | |||
30 | Yeti | 7c | 20m | |||
31 | Crazy cow | 7b+ | 20m | |||
32 | Monkey dream | 7b | 25m | |||
33 | Orso solitario | 7b | 10m | |||
34 | Gorillopoli | 7b | 25m | |||
35 | Gorilla nella nebbia | 7b | 10m | |||
36 | Magilla | 7a+ | 20m | |||
37 | Drillo | 6b | 10m | |||
38 | Priogu resuscitau | 6a - b | 10m | |||
39 | Cardanca | 6a+ | 10m | |||
40 | ★★★ Gufo | 6c+ | 20m | |||
41 | Mantide | 7a+ | 20m | |||
42 | ★★ Fennec | 6a+ | 20m |
1.8.16. Ruota del Tempo 85 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.345545, 8.624475
1.8.16.1. Ruota di Scorta 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Otosclerosi | 5c | 12m | |||
2 | Il toast del boss | 5c | 12m | |||
3 | Ran-grott | 6c | 12m | |||
4 | Il taglialegna | 6c+ | 12m | |||
5 | Is gurusu | 6b+ | 12m | |||
6 | Ercolino | 6b+ | 12m | |||
7 |
★★★ Le apparenze ingannano
FA: M. Zurru, 1993 | 7a | 12m | |||
8 | NIP | 6a+ | 12m | |||
9 | PIL | 5c | 12m |
1.8.16.2. Ruota del Tempo 66 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nembo kid | 7c | 25m | |||
2 | Attila | 6c - 7a | 25m | |||
3 | Edolino | 5c | 15m | |||
4 | La pulce di bosco | 6a+ | 15m | |||
5 | Ficus | 6c+ | 15m | |||
6 | Le voglie di marzia | 6c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Bobillotta | 6b | 15m | |||
8 | Sir Duke | 7b | 20m | |||
9 | ★★ Beethoven | 6b+ | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Fripp (via originale) | 7a+ | 22m | |||
11 | Rain man | 7a | 32m | |||
12 | Patroclo | 6b | 12m | |||
13 | Caligola | 7a | 12m | |||
14 | Matte Kudasai | 7a | 12m | |||
15 |
★★★ Amadeus
FA: M. Oviglia, 1987 | 6c | 15m | |||
16 | Quicksilver | 7a | 25m | |||
17 | Manzu | 7b+ | 30m | |||
18 | Modi | 7a+ | 30m | |||
19 |
Archimede
FA: M. Oviglia, 1987 | 6c+ | 15m | |||
20 | ★★★ Zupperman | 6b+ | 15m | |||
21 | Goblin | 7c/c+ | 35m | |||
22 | Master mind | 8a | 40m | |||
23 | Noir desir | 7b | 40m | |||
24 | Marylin | 7c+ | 40m | |||
25 | Regalo per Mauri | 8b | 40m | |||
26 | ★★ Pflip | 6a | 10m | |||
27 | Casimiro | 6c | 10m | |||
28 | Pegaso | 6b+ | 10m | |||
29 |
★ Catherine
FA: C. Conca, 1987 | 6a+ | 10m | |||
30 | Rilassati e resisti | 8a | 40m | |||
31 | Woody Woodpecker | 7a | 20m | |||
32 | Beat | 8a | 40m | |||
33 | Leon | 7c+ | 45m | |||
34 | Engaku taino | 8a | 35m | |||
35 | ★★ Narciso | 7a | 17m | |||
36 | ★★ Cobi | 7b | 25m | |||
37 | Woodstock | 7c+ | 35m, 2 | |||
38 | Don Rodrigo | 8a+ | 25m | |||
39 | Penelope | 7b | 17m | |||
40 | Magellano | 7c | 35m | |||
41 | New Obelix | 8a+ | 25m | |||
42 | New Asterix | 8b | 25m | |||
43 | Genius | 40m | ||||
44 | Il verbo | 8b | 22m | |||
45 | ★★★ Il piccolo principe | 7a | 15m | |||
46 | Il principe plus | 8a+/b | 30m | |||
47 | Dottor Dreher | 40m | ||||
48 | Shrek | 8a+ | 20m | |||
49 | La voce | 8c+ | 30m | |||
50 | L'asso pigliatutto | 8a | 25m | |||
51 | Andy | 7c+ | 25m, 2 | |||
52 | Andycapp | 8a | 40m | |||
53 | Asso di cuori | 8b | 35m | |||
54 | Mandrake | 7b - c | 25m | |||
55 | Ali Baba | 8a | 30m | |||
56 | ★★★ Aladino | 7c | 30m | |||
57 | Zeus | 7b+ | 30m | |||
58 | Soft machine | 7b | 25m | |||
59 | Soft | 6c+ | 25m | |||
60 | Big | 6c+ | 35m | |||
61 | Giuda | 7b | 25m | |||
62 | I. Palavan | 7a | 25m | |||
63 | Barabba | 6c+ | 25m | |||
64 | Corda | 6b+ | 20m | |||
65 | Tesa | 7a+ | 20m | |||
66 | Pisciarola | 7a+ | 20m |
1.8.16.3. Ruotino 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mata Hari | 6a+ | 10m | |||
2 | Viulenza | 6c | 12m | |||
3 | Invernizi tostina | 6c+/7a | 12m | |||
4 | Ginetti on the rock | 6c/c+ | 12m | |||
5 | Capsula | 6b+ | 12m | |||
6 | Sgrufolo | 6a | 12m | |||
7 | Zio Pino | 5c - 6a | 12m | |||
8 | E'na scala | 5b | 12m | |||
9 | Popi Chicco | 5c | 12m | |||
10 | Sand | 4b | 12m |
1.8.17. Sherwood Area 73 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.343773, 8.625217
1.8.17.1. Bambini Francesi 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.344271, 8.624118
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nala | 6a+ | 15m | |||
2 | Pumbaa | 6b | 12m | |||
3 | Farasa | 6c | 12m | |||
4 | Scar | 6c+ | 15m | |||
5 | Mufasa | 6a+ | 12m | |||
6 | Simba | 5c | 10m |
1.8.17.2. Sherwood 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.344068, 8.624618
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ sin nombre | 6a | 37m | |||
2 | ★★ Il complesso della placca | 6b+ | 15m | |||
3 | ★★ Lamastero | 5c | 15m | |||
4 | ★ Dolce far niente | 5a | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Rovin Hood | 4c | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ No limits? No grazie!! | 6a | 25m | |||
7 | ★★ Spazio 1999 | 5b | 40m, 2 | |||
8 | ★★★ Bastardino | 6b | 25m | |||
9 | ★★ Nottingam | 6a+ | 25m | |||
10 | ★★ Sherwood | 6c | 20m | |||
11 | ★★★ GreenPeace | 6b+ | 25m | |||
12 | ★★ Il principe dei ladri | 6c+ | ||||
13 | ★★★ Naturella | 6b | 20m | |||
14 | ★★★ Mao | 6b | 20m | |||
15 | ★★ Sacrime e langue | 7a+ | 20m | |||
16 | Nerxius | 7b | 20m | |||
17 | Sangue amaro | 7b+ | 20m | |||
18 | Scuola & Falesia | 7c+ | 15m | |||
19 | Wind of changes | 7c+ | 15m | |||
20 | Martinetta | 7c+ | 15m | |||
21 | Martinetta direct | 7c+ | 20m | |||
22 | Serial killer | 7b+ | 15m | |||
23 | Cuore di canna | 7b+ | 15m | |||
24 | I normali eccezionali | 8a+ | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ Per le antiche scale | 7a | 15m | |||
26 | Anima sincera | 6b | 15m | |||
27 | Sono un pirata, non sono un signore | 5c | 15m |
1.8.17.3. Sherwood Kids 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.343601, 8.624765
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Little John | 4a | 15m | |||
2 | Fra tac | 4c | 15m | |||
3 | Lady Marian | 4b | 15m | |||
4 | Sir Biss | 4c | 15m |
1.8.17.4. Polo Negativo 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.343641, 8.625786
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Nano
From the belay of "Ci Vorrebbe un amico" a fixed robe leads to two other pitches. This is the one on the right. | 6c | 20m | |||
2 |
Troddio di Spade
From the belay of "Ci Vorrebbe un amico" a fixed robe leads to two other pitches. This is the one on the left. | 6a+ | 20m | |||
3 | ★ Ci vorrebbe un amico | 4c | 12m | |||
4 | ★ Niti | 5c | 12m | |||
5 | Dottor Sirbon | 6b | 12m | |||
6 | Estranei | 5c | 15m | |||
7 |
Pompetta
Starts with "Il Bastone e la Carota" and then moves to the right. | 6a | 15m | |||
8 | Il bastone e la carota | 6a | 25m | |||
9 | Il ruggito del coniglio | 6b | 25m | |||
10 | Walk about | 6c+ | 27m | |||
11 | Broccoli | 6b | 27m |
1.8.17.5. Pollo Positivo 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.343405, 8.626356
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Elavolpe | 6a | 15m | |||
2 | ★★ Il gatto | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 | La fatina | 5c | 15m | |||
4 | Lucignolo | 5b | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Il grillo parlante | 6b | 20m | |||
6 | Mangia fuoco | 6b+ | 20m | |||
7 | Pinocchio | 5c | 15m | |||
8 | Natal | 6a | 20m | |||
9 | Bianco | 6b+ | 20m | |||
10 | Ergo | 7a+ | 20m | |||
11 | Patella | 6a+ | 25m | |||
12 | Maialino | 6b+ | 20m | |||
13 | Ribalta | 6c | 20m | |||
14 | Sembra facile | 6b+ | 20m | |||
15 | È facile | 5b | 20m | |||
16 | Alluvione | 6a | 20m | |||
17 | Su dai | 6b | 25m | |||
18 | Pollo positivo | 7a | 25m | |||
19 | Mistral | 6b+ | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Vento del nord | 6b+ | 25m | |||
21 | La Bailadora | 7b | 20m | |||
22 | Atomo fuggente | 6c+ | 20m | |||
23 | Mediamente | 6b+ | 20m | |||
24 | Cancello | 6b | 20m | |||
25 | La vendetta di Cuan | 6b | 25m |
1.8.18. Technicolor 28 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.365383, 8.608509
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Lost and found | 6a+ | 20m | |||
2 | Trash | 6b+ | 20m | |||
3 | Skizzo | 7a+ | 25m | |||
4 | Risvegli | 7b | 25m | |||
5 | Sogni | 7a | 25m | |||
6 | ★★★ Fluido vitale | 6c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Camel | 7a+ | 25m | |||
8 | Autobiografia | 7c+ | 30m | |||
9 | Spy story | 7b+ | 30m | |||
10 | Red rain | 7c | 30m | |||
11 | ★★★ Action painting | 7a+ | 35m, 13 | |||
12 | Ombra silenziosa | 7a | 35m | |||
13 | Lobotomia | 7c | 35m | |||
14 | Toto' a colori | 7a | 35m | |||
15 | Ice | 6c+ | 25m | |||
16 | Hot rats | 7a | 35m | |||
17 | Octopus | 7a+ | 35m | |||
18 | Khubilai | 6b - c | 30m | |||
19 | Carver | 7b | 30m | |||
20 | ★★★ Technicolor | 6b+ | 35m, 16 | |||
21 | Chiamami aquila | 6a/a+ | 20m | |||
22 | Astrolicamus | 6c | 30m | |||
23 | Flamenco | 7a+ | 25m | |||
24 | Farewell | 7a+ | 25m | |||
25 | Zen | 7a | 27m | |||
26 | Tao | 7a+ | 27m | |||
27 | Morositas | 7a | 30m | |||
28 | Close to the edge | 6c+ | 30m |
1.8.19. Placchissima Baraxiutta 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.366435, 8.610121
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Casper | 6c+ | 15m | |||
2 | Rumori sospetti | 6b+ | 17m | |||
3 | La cosa | 6a+ | 17m | |||
4 | Saw | 6b | 22m | |||
5 | Franky | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 | La maga circe | 6b+ | 25m | |||
7 | Il conte Dracula | 6a+ | 20m | |||
8 | Carletto principe dei mostri | 6c+ | 20m | |||
9 | Pipistrello collassato | 7a+ | 35m | |||
10 | L'uomo lupo | 7b | 35m | |||
11 | Il vampiro innamorato | 7c | 30m |
1.8.20. San Giovanni 0 routes in Crag
1.8.21. Villacidro 0 routes in Crag
1.9. Buggerru 269 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 39.392274, 8.420486
1.9.1. Gutturu Cardaxius 100 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.375295, 8.430481
description
Gutturu Cardaxius is a limestone gorge with a variety of sectors with different climbing styles and grades.
access issues
Due to floods, since 2018 the road has been partially damaged. You can park the car as far as you can get and then walk for around 10 minutes before getting to the first sector (Istentales). If you drive a 4WD you can get all the way to banana republic before finding the road blocked.
1.9.1.1. Istentales 26 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.375866, 8.430178
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Sos oziosos | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
2 | ★★ Sos bonos | 6b | 20m | |||||
3 | ★★ Sos furbos | 6b | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Sos malos | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
5 | ★★ Avaros abramidos | 7a | 18m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Abruajos | 6c | 18m | |||||
7 | ★★ Spina sutta 'e su ludu | 5b | 12m | |||||
8 | ★ Sirbone | 5c | 15m | |||||
9 | ★★ Tostoinu | 5a | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Molente | 4b | 15m | |||||
11 | ★★ Bau bau | 3b | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ Pro-pizzinnos | 3c | 10m | |||||
13 | ★★ Indipendenzia | 6a | 35m | |||||
14 | ★★★ Berrittas | 6b | 35m | |||||
15 | ★★★ Murales | 6b+ | 32m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Pastores | 6c+ | 32m | |||||
17 | ★★★ Istella lughente | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Tirannia | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
19 | ★★★ Istentales | 7a | 30m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Sardigna | 6c | 35m | |||||
21 | ★★★ Populu sardu | 6c | 35m | |||||
22 | ★★ Unda niedda | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
23 | ★★ Coro meu | 6b | 38m | |||||
24 | ★★ Promissas | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
25 | ★★★ Po uno frore | 5c+ | 30m | |||||
26 | ★★ Asseliari istranzos | 5c | 20m |
1.9.1.2. Sardus Pater 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.374937, 8.439020
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Antoneddu | 6c | 20m | |||
2 | ★★★ Bainzu | 6b+ | 20m | |||
3 | ★★ Caiccu | 6c+ | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Mariedda | 6b | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Peppedda | 6b | 30m | |||
6 | ★★ Perdu | 6c+ | 25m | |||
7 | ★★ Dodore | 6c+ | 20m | |||
8 | ★★ Nanneddu | 6c | 20m | |||
9 | ★★ Barore | 6c | 30m | |||
10 | ★★★ Babai | 8a+ | 20m | |||
11 | ★★★ Antonicu | 7c+ | 30m | |||
12 | ★★★ Antiogu | 7c | 30m | |||
13 | ★★★ Tiu-Peppe | 7c+ | 30m | |||
14 | ★★★ Sardus Pater | 8a | 30m | |||
15 | ★★★ Chicchinu | 7c | 30m | |||
16 | ★★★ Loiseddu | 7c+ | 20m |
1.9.1.3. Il piccolo Canyon 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.375360, 8.439961
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Zente | 6a | 35m, 2 | |||
2 | Tesinantaddu | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 | Maniga longa | 6b+ | 15m | |||
4 | Adeasi | 6b+ | 15m | |||
5 | Adeosi | 6a+ | 15m | |||
6 | Centu concas | 6a+ | 15m | |||
7 | Artaria de cacchi | 6b+ | 15m | |||
8 | Scalaverru | 7b | 15m | |||
9 | Tostaredda! | 6c+ | 15m | |||
10 | O tappiccu o t'affraccu | 6c | 15m | |||
11 | Sboriu e mesu | 5c+ | 10m | |||
12 | ★★ Cozzina | 6c | 30m | |||
13 | Launeddas | 6a | 25m | |||
14 | Sa serra | 6b+ | 22m | |||
15 | ★ Arru | 5c | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Suergiu | 6a | 25m | |||
17 | Murdegu | 5c | 20m | |||
18 | Modizzi | 6b+ | 20m | |||
19 | Zinipiri | 6b | 15m | |||
20 | Launeddas 2 | 6b | 15m |
1.9.1.4. Banana Republic (sideA) 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.376250, 8.444124
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Al tappone | 20m | ||||
2 | ★★★ Lo psiconano | 7c | 20m | |||
3 | Prese... piccole | 8b | 20m | |||
4 | Frottolandia | 20m | ||||
5 | Cosa nostra | 20m | ||||
6 | Il quarto potere | 7c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Fessbuk | 7b+ | 25m | |||
8 | Vox populi | 7b | 18m | |||
9 | Gomorra | 7b | 20m | |||
10 | ★★★ Povera patria | 7a+ | 20m | |||
11 | ★★★ Baby dull | 7a | 30m | |||
12 | ★★★ Banana republic | 6c | 30m | |||
13 | ★★ Voglio scendere | 6b - c | 30m |
1.9.1.5. Banana Republic (sideB) 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.375999, 8.444738
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lodo Alfano | 5c+ | 15m | |||
2 | Spadani | 5c+ | 15m | |||
3 | ★★★ Il pikkonatore | 6a+ | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Ustica | 6a | 20m | |||
5 | Toghe rosse | 5c+ | 25m | |||
6 | ★★ Tangentopoli | 6a+/b | 25m | |||
7 | ★★★ Gladio | 6a | 25m | |||
8 | ★★★ Governo ladro | 5c | 30m | |||
9 | ★★★ La casta | 5b | 33m |
1.9.1.6. Marangigio 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.375222, 8.440735
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Anchimuzzu | 5a | 20m | |||
2 | Giulio "For President" | 4b | 20m | |||
3 | Ban Ki-Moon | 4c | 10m | |||
4 | Banchimuzzu | 6a | 10m | |||
5 | Buana | 6c | 20m | |||
6 | Ma chi doi nai ca se ca.... | 6c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Gamg | 6b+ | 30m | |||
8 | Ndi teisi ungasa? | 30m | ||||
9 | Proccu a bottasa | 6b+ | 25m | |||
10 | Cava zupu | 6b | 12m | |||
11 | Fragu de frizioi | 7a | 12m | |||
12 | La fisarmonica di Vienna | 4c | 15m | |||
13 | Sou de canna | 6a | 15m | |||
14 | Su professionista | 5b | 15m | |||
15 | U pruppu po giarrettu | 6b | 15m | |||
16 | Tu dov'è che stai andando | 6c | 15m |
1.9.2. Cuenca del Cabron 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.391506, 8.400481
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Viva la verdad | 6a | 15m | |||||
2 | Clandestino | 6c+ | 17m | |||||
3 | Desaparecido | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
4 | Mama call | 7a | 18m | |||||
5 | King of the Bongo | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
6 | Lagrimas de oro | 7a | 23m | |||||
7 | Luna y sol | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
8 | Mas escandalosa | 7a+ | 23m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★ El cocodrilo
FA: F. Bessone, 2000 | 6b+ | 23m | |||||
10 | Por el suelo | 7a | 22m | |||||
11 | Esperando la ultima ola | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
12 | Mano Negra | 7b | 28m | |||||
13 | Dia luna dia piena | 7a+ | 16m | |||||
14 | El viento | 7b | 16m | |||||
15 | Minha galera | 6a+ | 18m | |||||
16 | Bienvenida a Tijuana | 6b+ | 30m |
1.9.3. Canyon di San Nicolo 35 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.419880, 8.431796
description
Limestone gorge with different crags. There are two multipitches routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6 | Franopoli | 6a | 200m, 5 | |||
7 | A ischina mujada | 6b+ | 90m, 4 |
1.9.3.1. Ficus area 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.420675, 8.432570
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Flat Bionico
FA: C. Meloni, 2000 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
2 |
★ Manolesta
FA: M. Zurru, 2000 | 5c+ | 15m | |||
3 |
★★ Pinosauro
FA: M. Gessa, 2000 | 6b | 15m | |||
4 |
★★ Barinbillara
FA: G. Mocci, 2000 | 6b+ | 10m | |||
5 |
Hemingway
FA: C. Meloni & M. Zurru, 2000 FFA: A. Casti, 2002 | 7b | 10m | |||
6 |
★★ Ficus
FA: C. Meloni & M. Zurru, 2000 | 6a+ | 10m | |||
7 |
★★ Marco l'indiano
FA: C. Meloni, 2000 | 6b+ | 12m | |||
8 |
★★ Stellina
FA: M. Zurru, 2000 | 6a | 15m | |||
9 |
★★ Calma e gessa!
FA: M. Gessa, 2000 | 5c | 15m | |||
10 |
★★ Matedo
FA: M. Gessa, 2000 | 5b | 15m | |||
11 |
★★ Tridente
FA: M. Gessa, 2000 | 5c | 15m | |||
12 |
★★ Signora Cicera
FA: M. Gessa, 2000 | 4c | 15m |
1.9.3.2. East Wall 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Senza nome | 5c | 20m | |||
2 | Sardegna maravigliosa | 6a+ | 15m | |||
3 | Una stella per amica | 6a | 25m | |||
4 | ★★★ Chi prim arriva e gia li | 5c | 40m |
1.9.3.3. La Torre 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Due amici | 6c | 35m | |||
2 | L'ultimo dei miei pensieri | 7a+ | 25m | |||
3 | Da un altro punto di vista | 7b | 25m |
1.9.3.4. Sa Mesa 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Malloreddus | 6a | 15m | |||
2 | Culurgionis | 6a | 15m | |||
3 | Sebadas | 6a+ | 15m | |||
4 | Su porceddu | 6a+ | 15m | |||
5 | ★★★ Pai carasau | 5b | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ Sa saccaia | 5c | 15m | |||
7 | ★★ Sa pabassina | 6b+ | 20m |
1.9.3.5. Grotta dei nasi lunghi 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.418674, 8.431317
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The yellow submarine | 6c+ | 20m | |||
2 | Apprendista pocco in pista | 7a | 20m | |||
3 | ★★ Le grandi navi lente | 7a | 20m | |||
4 | Sogni d'oro | 7a+ | 25m | |||
5 | Il colpo della strega | 7b+ | 20m | |||
6 | Viaggio interstalatitico | 7b | 20m | |||
7 | Grottesca | 7b+ | 20m |
1.9.4. Muro dei sogni 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.9.4.1. Top sector 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | A qualcuno piace fred | 7a | 15m | |||
2 | Niente visione | 7a+ | 15m | |||
3 | Siamo gli evasi | 7b | 15m | |||
4 | Il dritto di Chicago | 7a+ | 15m | |||
5 | Io piaccio | 6c | 15m | |||
6 | Pensa ai fatti tuoi | 7a | 20m | |||
7 | Porfirio villarosa | 17m | ||||
8 | Noi duri | 7c+ | 17m | |||
9 | Eri piccola cosi | 8a | 17m | |||
10 | Sgancia e pedala | 17m | ||||
11 | Le bambole d'Italia | 7a+ | 30m | |||
12 | Teresa non sparare | 6c | 27m | |||
13 | Frankie and Johnny | 6a+ | 27m | |||
14 | Lasciati baciare | 6a+ | 27m | |||
15 | Guardia che luna | 5b | 17m |
1.9.4.2. Bottom Sector 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Parlami d'amore Mariu | 5c | 18m | |||
2 | Che bella cosa sei | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Carina | 6a+ | 16m | |||
4 | Five o'clock rock | 6c | 18m | |||
5 | Si sono rotti i platters | 6c+ | 20m | |||
6 | Buenasera signorina | 6c+ | 20m | |||
7 | Che notte | 6b+ | 20m | |||
8 | Tequila | 7c/c+ | 20m | |||
9 | Cocco bello | 7b+ | 20m | |||
10 | Whisky facile | 7b+ | 20m | |||
11 | Lo stregone | 7b | 20m | |||
12 | Giacomino | 6b+ | 20m | |||
13 | Sei chic | 5c | 15m | |||
14 | Boccuccia di Rosa | 5c | 15m | |||
15 | Love in Portofino | 5c | 15m |
1.9.5. Capo Pecora 59 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 39.471941, 8.386232
summary
Good quality granite with nice features. Perfect for friends placement.
description
Probably the best trad crag of the whole island.
approach
Drive all the way to capo pecora. There is a big parking lot right at the entrance of the SIC area. From the parking it takes around 30/40 minutes to get to the climbing area.
ethic
Bolting allowed only for anchors/lower off.
1.9.5.1. Big Ben 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.469001, 8.385425
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Non tutte le ciambelle escono | 6b | 60m, 2 | |||
2 | ★★★ Signori si nasce... | 5b | 60m, 3 | |||
3 | Il ventaglio segreto | 7a | 60m, 2 | |||
4 | ★★★ Never stop exploring | 6a+ | 60m, 2 | |||
5 | Game over | 6a+ | 20m | |||
6 | Air | 6c | 27m | |||
7 | Big ben ha detto stop | 7a | 15m | |||
8 | Un giorno da pecora | 6b+ | 15m | |||
9 | Onda lunga | 5c | 15m | |||
10 | L'orco sardo | 5c | 15m | |||
11 | ★★ Out of the shadow | 6a | 30m | |||
12 | Pioggia di stelle | 6b | 35m | |||
13 | Blu Trad | 7a+ | 50m, 3 | |||
14 | Rolling stones | 6b | 60m, 3 | |||
15 | ★★ Lao Tong | 5c | 25m |
1.9.5.2. Torre Straniera 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.469136, 8.384945
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lambretta | 4a | 15m | |||
2 | Primi Passi | 3c | 15m | |||
3 | C'è Sempre Una Prima Volta | 5a | 20m | |||
4 | Filo D'Arianna | 5c+ | 20m | |||
5 | ★ Far West | 5c | 20m | |||
6 | Mucchietto Di Ossa | 5b | 20m | |||
7 | Difficoltà Apparenti | 5c | 20m | |||
8 | Difficoltà nascoste | 6a | 20m | |||
9 | Non C'è Tempo Per Annoiarsi | 6b | 20m |
1.9.5.3. Big Bong 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.470525, 8.385133
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brivido freddo | 5b | 75m, 2 | |||
2 | Topi di campagna | 6b+ | 25m | |||
3 | Fatwa | 6b | 25m | |||
4 | Poseidon | 7a | 15m | |||
5 | Tide | 6b+ | 20m | |||
6 | Prometheus | 7b | 20m | |||
7 | Bartok | 7a+ | 20m |
1.9.5.4. Medusa Beach 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.471107, 8.385316
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Medusa Crack | 5b | 25m | |||
2 | Keaton | 5c+ | 25m | |||
3 | ★★★ Soft trad | 4c | 25m |
1.9.5.5. Pecora Puzzle 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.470795, 8.385694
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pecora Puzzle | 6b | 25m | |||
2 | Hydra | 6b+ | 25m |
1.9.5.6. Nel regno di Onan 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.470581, 8.386554
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ C'è sempre da imparare | 5a | 17m | |||
2 | Il totem abbandonato | 6a | 13m | |||
3 | ★★ Micro-Trad | 6b | 15m | |||
4 | Nel regno di Onan | 6b | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Ipse dixit | 5b | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ Testa di cane | 5c+ | 15m | |||
7 | ★ Ciak | 6b | 15m | |||
8 | ★ Sprite | 6b+ | 15m | |||
9 | ★★ Cardigan | 5c | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Bubu II | 6a | 27m | |||
11 | Spindrift | 6b+ | 17m | |||
12 | Io ballo da solo | 6a | 27m | |||
13 | Capolungo | 5c | 25m | |||
14 | Soffiasse davvero quel vento di scirocco | 6a+ | 25m |
1.9.5.7. Shangai 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.471607, 8.386641
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Guapo | 6a | 40m | |||
2 | Totem cams | 6b+ | 35m | |||
3 | X Man | 6b - c | 35m | |||
4 | Poser | 5a | 20m |
1.9.5.8. Terra promessa 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.472448, 8.387598
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unplugged | 5c+ | 50m, 3 | |||
2 | Stress da ufficio | 6a | 60m, 3 | |||
3 | Cuorediluna | 6b+ | 50m, 2 |
1.9.5.9. Nido dell'aquila 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.475222, 8.387652
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mar di Sardegna | 5a | 45m, 2 | |||
2 | Luna Rossa | 4b | 40m |
1.9.6. Pranu Sartu 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.390410, 8.385320
description
Steep 100+ mt cliff right above the sea.
approach
The best way to access the routes is from the top, abseiling down and climbing back up. Drive to the ruins of the Pranu Sartu mine village towards the south end of the site until you find a parking space. From there the cliff is ome minture away.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Traiettorie Impercettibili | 6b | 110m, 3 | |||
2 | Amilcare e gli amici sardi | 6a | 100m, 3 | |||
3 |
Peccati di gola
Only anchors are bolted | 6b+ | 90m, 4 | |||
4 | Nel ricordo di un amicone | 6b | 90m, 3 | |||
5 | Art Roc | 6c+ | 70m, 3 | |||
6 |
Dissolvenze marine
This route is a traverse starting on the left hand side of Art Roc towards the left end of the cliff. You can climb uo from any of the following routes | 6a | 330m, 10 | |||
7 | Svelti e fortunati | 5a | 100m, 2 | |||
8 | Notte senz'anima | 4c | 70m, 2 | |||
9 | Cernie in sosta | 5a | 100m, 3 | |||
10 | Il respiro dell'angelo caduto | 6b | 70m, 3 | |||
11 | Plus loin sera la mer | 6c | 85m, 3 | |||
12 | Il genetliaco e il sibarita | 4c | 75m, 3 | |||
13 | ★★★ Il canto del sifone | 5c | 70m, 3 | |||
14 | Un secolo tra noi leggero | 6a | 85m, 3 | |||
15 | Mani bianche e spazi blu | 5c | 70m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★★ Pista ciclabile | 6a+ | 100m, 3 | |||
17 | Thalassa | 5c | 90m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★★ Riflessi magici | 6a+ | 140m, 5 | |||
19 | Litri e litri di vino cattivo | 6b | 100m, 5 | |||
20 | Capricci sull'acqua | 6a | 90m, 3 | |||
21 | La signora delle cappelle | 6a | 100m, 4 | |||
22 | Vorrebbero ballare | 4c | 95m, 3 | |||
23 | Pranuterapia | 6b | 90m, 3 | |||
24 | Apprendista stregone | 6b | 70m, 3 | |||
25 | Ginepro coccolone | 6c | 80m, 3 | |||
26 | West coast | 6b | 100m, 5 | |||
27 | Dolce bocca | 5a | 160m, 4 | |||
28 | Vento di rosa | 5c | 100m, 4 | |||
29 | L'orchidea blu | 6a+ | 100m, 3 |
1.10. Arenas 152 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.396010, 8.557462
1.10.1. Zona Ztl 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.398088, 8.551904
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | I Pilocchiani | 4b | 12m | |||
2 | Tirkius | 5a | 12m | |||
3 | Gigi fatality | 5a | 12m | |||
4 | senso unico | 5b | 12m | |||
5 | Saffa Subito | 5a | 10m | |||
6 | Iponfa | 6a+ | 12m | |||
7 | Zambo | 6a | 12m | |||
8 | Pane e lua | 6b+ | 15m |
1.10.2. Punta Pilocca 55 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.397840, 8.550308
1.10.3. Muro dei Folletti 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.398606, 8.552178
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La saga dei pistis | 5b | 20m | |||
2 | Feffola vado a scalare | 5a | 20m | |||
3 | 70 volte alla settimana | 5c | 20m | |||
4 | Geometria di un sorriso | 5c | 70m | |||
5 | Tutti gli uomini del presidente | 6a | 25m | |||
6 | I soliti stronzetti | 6a | 25m | |||
7 | Movigli@on the net | 6a+ | 25m | |||
8 | Perforatori kombattenti | 6b+ | 25m | |||
9 | Romantici & Koraggiosi | 6c+ | 30m | |||
10 | Legittimo sospetto | 7a | 30m | |||
11 | Tziu Gianky | 7b | 30m | |||
12 | I muscoli del Kapitano | 7a+ | 30m | |||
13 | ★★★ The premier | 6c | 30m | |||
14 | Leningrado | 6c+ | 30m | |||
15 | Gentle giant | 6c/c+ | 25m | |||
16 | Robbotteddu | 7a | 15m | |||
17 | Spiritual climber | 7b | 15m | |||
18 | Milanese D.O.C. | 6b+ | 15m | |||
19 | MDF (modulazione di frequenza) | 6a+ | 15m |
1.10.4. Amante Stregata dal CAI 70 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.399208, 8.554079
1.10.4.1. Sarrano Famosi (East of the cave) 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Un caffe per boccalatte | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | Buhl e pupe | 7b | 20m | |||
3 | Lotto perlotto | 7b | 20m | |||
4 | Giusto o no e gervasutti | 7a+ | 20m | |||
5 | Casimiro nella tela dei ragni | 7a+ | 20m | |||
6 | Ossi e tissi | 7a+ | 15m | |||
7 | Pibiri e sabi | 6b/b+ | 18m | |||
8 | Riccardo ardito senza desio | 6a | 20m |
1.10.4.2. Sarrano Famosi (West of the cave) 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Comici e mimi | 6b - c | 20m | |||
2 | Mallory e irvine | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Birra o vinatzer | 6b+ | 20m | |||
4 | Sagarmantha e tenzing | 6c+ | 20m | |||
5 | Traversata degli dei | 10m | ||||
6 | Qomolangma | 6c | 10m | |||
7 | Un consiglio? Falla! | 15m | ||||
8 | Troppo iovane per Heinz | 12m | ||||
9 | Cesare maestri dei maestri | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 | Dibona in meglio | 15m | ||||
11 | Grattachecca di Oviglia | 15m | ||||
12 | La montagna di luce | 15m | ||||
13 | Renato della casa | 7a | 12m | |||
14 | I giorni grandi di Walter | 7b | 20m | |||
15 | 14 volte Messner | 7a | 18m | |||
16 | Hasta la vista aste | 6b - c | 18m | |||
17 | Harrer e tenzing ghiatzo | 5c | 30m | |||
18 | Tracce di nives | 6a+ | 30m | |||
19 | Detassis driver | 5c | 30m | |||
20 | Rabada, navarro y sidra | 5b | 15m | |||
21 | ★ messi alla gogna | 5c | 20m | |||
22 | Buon Preuss ti faccia | 4c | 20m |
1.10.4.3. Cinecitta 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Quela sporca dozzina | 6b | 20m | |||
2 | La banda degli onesti | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Hollywood party | 6a+ | 20m | |||
4 | La chiave | 5c | 30m | |||
5 | ★★ Atlantis | 5b+ | 35m | |||
6 | ★★ Matrix | 5b | 35m | |||
7 | Il favoloso mondo di Amélie | 5a | 35m | |||
8 | Ti presento Joe Black | 5c | 35m | |||
9 | ★★ Lezioni di piano | 6a | 35m | |||
10 | ★★ Vento di passioni | 5c+ | 35m | |||
11 | The passion | 6a+ | 35m | |||
12 | ★★ Il profumo del mosto selvatico | 6a | 35m | |||
13 | ★★ Istituto luce | 6b | 35m | |||
14 | ★★ L'esorciccio | 6a+ | 35m | |||
15 | Calypso | 5c | 60m | |||
16 | Un mercoledi' da leoni | 6a+ | 35m | |||
17 | L'uomo senza sonno | 6a+ | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Koyaanisquatsi, la vita senza equilibrio | 6b+ | 35m | |||
19 | Love story | 6a+ | 30m |
1.10.4.4. C'era una Volta 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Raperonzolo | 4b | 20m | |||
2 | Biancaneve ed i cinque nani | 5c | 20m | |||
3 | Alice's adventures in wonderland | 5b | 20m | |||
4 | Il pifferaio magico | 6a | 25m | |||
5 | I tre porcellini | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 | Pinocchio | 6a | 20m | |||
7 | Il Mago di Oz | 6c | 30m | |||
8 | La bella e la bestia | 6c+ | 30m | |||
9 | La princessa sul pisello | 5c | 25m | |||
10 | Pierino e il lupo | 5c | 15m | |||
11 | Il gatto con gli stivali | 5c | 25m |
1.10.4.5. La Cantina 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Se ri nasco | 7c | 15m | |||
2 | Un brachetto per Minetto | 7b+ | 20m | |||
3 | Tokaj Piccioccus | 6c+ | 20m | |||
4 | Tu...rriga dritto | 7b - c | 20m | |||
5 | Sa si tappo | 7a+ | 20m | |||
6 | Donna Fugata | 6b - c | 30m | |||
7 | Cannonau stressato a meta | 7c | 30m | |||
8 | Moscato murrungiato | 7b | 30m | |||
9 | Terre brune e bionde | 6a | 27m | |||
10 | Teroldego rotaliano | 6b+ | 25m, 2 |
1.11. Grotta dei Baci 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: 38.956806, 8.594614
summary
Great deep water solo area. Inside a large Grotto. Up to 12 meter high cliffs to climb. Quite popular. One doesn’t need to be able to do 6b’s to have fun here, you can link your own easier routes.
description
Deep Water Solo Grotto on the Porto Pino peninsula. The water is super clear so you can see where is safe to climb and where is not in terms of water depth. You can scramble down to the water from either side of the Grotto. Routes include vertical, overhang and roof with a nice stepped rock formation in some spots.
access issues
Avoid when the sea is wild, could be dangerous while swimming to the wall. The water is quite clear so you can see where the rocks are underwater but take care.
approach
Park in the dirt car park next to the water just down from Ristorante Oasi Verde Candiani. The road is pretty rough on the way in, it’s doable in a normal car but slowly as it’s super bumpy Roman-road style. Once at the car park follow the path on the coast West for 10-15 minutes to Grotta dei Baci.
where to stay
Theres not much in the way of camping nearby, but there’s quite a few hotels etc. People in Vans stay overnight in the dirt carpak however the local government forbids people sleeping there, so you run the risk of a fine.
history
The Climbing Sardinia website was used to discover this spot in the first place.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unknown 1 | 6c | 18m | |||||
2 | Unknown 2 | 6c | 12m | |||||
3 | Unknown 3 | 6b | 12m | |||||
4 | Unknown 4 | 7a | 20m |