Lower Guide

Grade is not confirmed!

Dedicated to Peter Mair.

As described by Jacopo Larcher: So, basically, there is a first section which is kind of vertical—way easier than the rest of the route, it’s probably 5.12- or something like that. But it’s quite precarious. It doesn’t take a lot of gear; only two pieces in the first 15 meters, one nut and one cam. These pieces are good, it’s just that the first one is quite high up. So this first part isn’t super hard, but just technical climbing where it’s easy to make a mistake that would be bad.

Then you reach a no-hands rest below a roof, where the first crux is. You get some really good gear in a crack there, and from there on the route is quite safe. The first crux is after this roof and is’ compression climbing with a dynamic move to reach a slopey crack. The fall there is safe— if you don’t stick the last hard move, you fall with the rope behind your leg, but it’s still ok—I took this fall a few times.

Next, in the slopey horizontal crack you place the last two pieces before the upper crux. At this point you are on the left of the arete and then you climb to the right to a small rest.

Then there is the last hard boulder problem. You get this really bad right hand pinch, and you bring your foot super high onto this slopey foot hold. And from there you have to get this kind of two-finger pinch slot, before finally bumping to a good hold.

After that you place a ball nut and then you just have one weird move to get to a ledge— another hands rest, you can lay down. Above that there is still a 10-meter 5.12 crack to the top, which is all normal crack climbing with good gear. At first I wanted to make the route end at the ledge, because a different line finished on that crack and there were bolts on the crack. But the guy who had opened that climb chopped the bolts so that I could finish my line to the top.

Name written at bottom. Starting under a small roof, traverse right to start the route proper. Follow this up and a bit left on the obvious line of bolts and finish direct through small ledges.

The obvious hand sized corner crack. A beautiful line, after which you finish up to the left. A delicate move above the final ledge guards the end, be careful here.

the finger crack in the centre of the wall.

Slabby finger crack left from the chimney/crack

Crack/chimney

Crack with a lot of jams

Crack with laybacks. Starts with „No Name III“, then go right

Follow the ledge of the sector until the very end to access the route. It's a long access to the 7a but it's an incredible line really worth a go! Take a standard (double) rack Cam #0.1-#2 with focus on the small cams and a few small nuts.

1. 6b, 25m (4 bolts + anchor): The first pitch is a nice access pitch to the heart of the route. Scramble up to a short dihedral and than continue up to a small tree. Pass to the left under the tree to access a very comfy ledge with the anchor.

2. 7a, 35m (2 bolts + anchor): Put a long quickdraw in the first bolt to avoid friction. Follow the line of least resistance passing another bolt up to the anchor next to a tree.