Routes as boulder in Japan

Make a big move leftwards from the jugs to the lip of Hip Mantle, then finish up that problem.

Start on the jugs and use intermediary holds to finish leftwards above the lip of Hip Mantle. The crack of Fist Crack is out.

A direct finish to Moran using holds on the left side within the crack, but not jamming the crack itself.

Traditional style climbing that perplexes many hotshots visiting from Tokyo's gyms.

Traverse leftwards and finish when you reach the top of the jugs.

Start as for Under Traverse, but instead of using holds on the jug rail below the crack, undercut the top side of the crack and use hands on the right arête to get established with feet on the jugs. Continuing undercutting upwards before it is possible to make a long move our rightwards to a big hold on Aerodancer around the right arête. Top out direct. The grade is very reach dependent.

Climb the slabby arête on its right side.

Name means 'climb direct slab'. Avoid using holds on Ankrah Slab to the right.

The shallow crack.

Start sitting at the base of the arête and pull on using crimps. Swing round left onto the slab and climb this to finish.

Pull on as per the previous route, but climb the crimps rightwards to the top.

Start RH on the high undercling, LH on the arête.

Sit start then traverse the boulder lip leftwards to finish up Kante Hidari (3 kyū). Name means 'dug out treasure'.

Mantle onto the sticking out hold.

Dig out all the dirt in the crack between the boulders, sit down, then climb it. Finish out rightwards to the top of the main boulder.

Climb the arête of the boulder on its left side.

Start sitting and climb the flake to the top.

Start on underclings in the crack. Named after the lump that formed on the first ascensionist's head after a hold broke.

Jump to the lip, find the best holds, then mantle.

Bit of a pull to get established.

Step onto the boulder, then trend rightwards to the top. Name means 'gentle'.

Name means 'trap', after the hole in the ground that used to exist below this problem.

Traverse the lip from left to right, then mantle at the top.

Start with hands on the arête and climb leftwards.

Climb the nose of the boulder.

Start in the crack right of Slab (4 kyū), then traverse the lip rightwards. Mantle at the end of the boulder. A sit start is also possible at about Font 5.

A small mantle problem.

Hand traverse the lip from left to right, then mantle at the nose onto the top. Highball and dangerous, so not often climbed.

Start LH on arête, RH on undercling or thin crimp.

A fridge-hugging problem.

Sit start from the flake, then traverse the lip of the boulder leftwards.

Start as for Mudai (1 kyū), but pull round right onto the slab, which is then climbed to finish.

Smear up the slab.

Start with LH on crimp on the face left of the arête, RH on the arête itself.

Start with hands on each arête, then trend round the right arête and on to the top.

An easy slab problem.

Not very good.

Use the vertical flake below the lip to climb direct to the top.

Without using the flake of the previous problem, climb rightwards via a devious move to mantle onto the big foothold out right.

Mantle onto the big hold and then on to the top.

A long lip traverse. Start at the far left and get established on the lip. Traverse rightwards until the very end (i.e. the top out of SD (5 kyū)) then top out. Name means 'sea of trees'.

Start on underclings deep within the overhang, and climb out past a crimp to the lip of the boulder. Mantle it out to finish.

Start as for Uruma, but once hands are on the lip enter into and finish as for Jukai.

An easy mantle problem.

A harder mantle problem.

Pull on and finish leftwards. Name means 'fall left'.

Climb to the top lip directly above. Name means 'climb direct'.

Do as the name says and lunge rightwards to the lip.

Start sitting and use the flake to gain the lip.

Start from sitting and somehow pull onto the boulder using the left arête. Then trend rightwards and finish as for No Name (9 kyū).

A short wall that is good for a warm up.

One of the best problems of the grade at Kasama. The left arête is in. The grade is very reach dependent.

Do one better than the samurai and climb the almost blank slab. The crack of One Hand Crack is out.

Both hands can be used at this grade.

Eliminate using the central crack only.

Mantle problem using the sloping crack and the thin rail above to gain the left hand side of the slab. A sit start coming in from the bottom of the Neko crack is also possible at 6A.

Climb the slab with the large pocket. Hands can be used at Font 1. Variations to the left and the right of the large pocket are also possible.

Start from the big foothold in the centre of the face and gain the slab round the arete.

Start from the obvious crumbling foothold.

More a sidepull / gaston move than an undercling.

An excellent test of finger strength on small crimps.

The nose of the boulder on its left side.

Traverse the back side of the boulder leftwards starting from the crimp on No Name Left. Finish up Mantle. The large flakes sticking out of the ground are in.

Right-hand side of the nose of the boulder. Also the easiest way to climb down.

Jump to the lip if necessary, then mantle.

Start up Little Mantle then traverse the lip leftwards to finish up Super-mantle.

Mantle onto the arete left of Paradise Gate.

Climb Little Mantle using one hand only.

Climb up the boulder starting from the undercling. A sit start is also possible coming in from the left at around 6A+.

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Initially put up by Dai Koyamada as an V14 in 2003 but after a hold broke graded V16. This is the "new" route.

Dai Koyamada put it up as a V14 in 2003 but then a hold broke and is now considered V16 (named here Hallucination).

Sitstart to Agartha.

Start deep inside the cave and climb the roof section and top out.

From one end to the other side of the rock.

First ascent was with made with tope rope. Climb slighly to the right and mantle properly. Carefull with the decent.

Start by squshing the two jugs.

Start by squshing the two jugs. Same start as "Anya". Similarly, hold the loose protrusion hold with your right hand and then slightly to the upper left.

Start from the jug on the left side of "Bakazaru".

Except for the start, only the jugs at the beginning is limited to the foothold

Start with a low traverse and go up where there is a little overhang with a wide pinch.

From right to left. Gabbahold follows. The slope is so strong that it comes to your arm. There is an upper version and a lower version

(Front face of the Michizo Iwa)

Near horizontal hang. From the crescent hold on the right side to the pocket on the hang. Bad landing!

Variation of Great King. Go straight up the hang without using the crescent hold. At first glance, it looks like there is no hold at all.

Beware of landing.

Beware of landing.

Traverse from the left end to the upper right. Use a relatively good hold in the middle of the rock.

Start from the left hold of Around the corner. Share the same start as Shark Shark Mantle.

Start from the left hold of Around the corner. Share the same start as Under.

Straight up from the roof base and go through the left roof line.

Straight up from the roof base and go through the middle roof line

Straight up from the roof base and go through the right roof line.

Jump and mantle; easy for tall people. Bad landing.

Climb under the roof, ends at the big jug.