Routes in Kenya for selected grade

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

1. 26m. Climb to the cave belay.

2. From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish.

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

Pumpy, then delicate. Start at 2m left from the far right end of the overhang (this avoids the start for The Quick and the Dead). Layback 10 feet up a short but nice finger crack and reach up to a jug just over the roof. Reach high and left for a second good hold, then hard moves to gain the black slab above. Very delicate moves up the slab for 20 feet to easier ground and finish on the slab above. Done on top rope. Anyone up for leading / placing a couple of bolts?

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

1. 15m. Up crack to traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit. The second pitch is very photogenic!

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish. Originally an aid route which finished aiding through the overhang above on pegs.

This old route begins 6m right of The Rood. Hard moves up to bolt on right. Step left (crux) and up to easier ground. Step right and up groove to ledge. Traverse right to leftwards rising crack. Follow this to fig tree.

Start on right-hand piece of the broken block. Go delicately over the overlap trending right to the obvious pocket at 7.5m. Cross easier ground and up to nettle tree, then right to the overhung corner. Up this and exit right by the tree on good jugs to a ledge. Finish up the face above.

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start about 12 m right of Stiletto at thin crack.

1. 40 m Up crack for 9 m. Over blocks to continuation of crack. Up this and move slightly right to ledge. Climb wide crack above then left around corner to another thin crack. Up this and left to ledge.

2. 40 m Traverse right 6 m then up groove to easier rock and broken terrace. Move right around corner and up thin crack to a steep shattered wall. Up this to recess and belay. Peg belays.

3. 40 m Up and left then straight up to obvious line leading to shattered cave. Traverse left for 9 m from cave then up wall to top. Seriousness: 3

Start as per Hiraeth (about 18 m right of Phoenix Pinnacle where the rock turns from yellow to red is the remnants of a tree at 9 m).

Fine climbing on gear up to number four BD cam.

1. Climb over blocks to below a tree and just left of a wide crack. Use tree to gain ledges. This is where Hiraeth goes up and left. Continue up and right over easier broken terrain to a corner 8 m below a large roof.

2. Climb corner to roof which is surmounted direct. Step right and then back left onto sloping ledge. Continue slightly left until a crack on the right provides the airy finishing moves.

Start about 1.5 m right of My Last Sigh in a hand-jam crack. Climb crack to top of pillar. Continue up, moving right over broken terrain to the ledge at the base of a clean vertical crack in a recess. Surmount ledge and then up crack. Continue up to overhang, through this and up stem right to crack. Up this and finish left.

Begin just around the left side of the arete from Bouboulinas Street. Climb the left-leaning corner up a variety of moves to a fixed pin at 5m. Move into a rightward layback and climb to 10m. Move around arete to the anchors of Bouboulinas Street on right. Poor protection; best done on toprope from Bouboulinas Street.

The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

30 m right of Black Panther.

60 m right of Black Panther.

From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Around the corner to the right is a chimney leading to a roof with a long fig tree root. Climb the chimney to just below the chockstone at 15', and move out onto the left wall. Continue over bulge, moving leftwards to a bolt above. A technical move (crux) leads past the bolt to the top.

Historic route number: 7

This route climbs the left wall of this cliff, and starts at a point where the wall bulges by a crack at 10'. Climb the crack and step left to bolt. Move up (crux), then step left when possible into break. Follow this more easily to top.

Historic route number: 11

Immediately right of the chimney is a steep wall with a bolt at 12'. Climb directly to bolt and move right to avoid bulge. Up and step left above bulge, then straight up past small tree. Move up and step left across chimney into an awkward blind crack which leads up, then right to finish. A direct finish from the lower bulge was later added by Uif Carlsson 7/2/94.

Historic route number: 17

Only the first 12' of this climb is [18]. Start right of 'Esprit' beneath a shallow groove. Climb awkwardly to bolt. Above the bolt step right, and easily up to horizontal crack. Climb straight up and follow thin crack to top.

Historic route number: 18

To the right is an obvious leftwards slanting crack which rises up a steep wall. Climb crack to where it bulges at 20'. Over bulge (crux) to good holds. Reverse and move up rightwards to ledge. Step left and up good rock to top.

Historic route number: 37

At the extreme right end of 'CB Buttress', is an obvious crack with a tree root. Climb the crack up to a small tree, and continue until it fades. Step left and ascend on good holds straight to the top of the pinnacle.

Historic route number: 47

To the right of the arch, there is a red buttress. This route takes the centre of this buttress. Start with the finger-crack at the bottom of the pillar, and climb 15' to the first bolt. Continue up past small tree to second bolt, and up steeply on small holds to top.

Historic route number: 54

Start as for 'Shock The Monkey'. Ascend this route past first two bolts to crack. Finish easily up this.

Historic route number: 67

Much better than it looks. This route climbs the groove/ corner in the middle of the bay to the right of the big buttress of the previous routes. Start directly below groove. Climb wall to start of groove, then straight up past two bolts to small roof. Pass this and climb crack above to top.

Historic route number: 68

Left of 'Quisling' there is a yellow wall with an arch which rises up rightwards. Start at right side of yellow wall below obvious overhanging blocks at 20'. Climb up past two bolts, then step right and move up over blocks to ledge. Step left and straight up to belay tree.

Historic route number: 70d

About 20' right of the previous route is an obvious offwidth crack. Climb crack to the block belay on 'Here Be Dragons', then finish up this route by climbing the crack above.

Historic route number: 78

Deservedly popular, a superb route which is an excellent introduction to harder Frog climbing. Start 15' right of the 'Here Be Dragons' corner beneath a steep wall with a thin crack at 10'. Climb to the crack and continue up ieftwards, making a delicate step left onto the slab (bolt above on right). Move up past a second bolt, step right and up to crack. Follow the crack past the tree to the top.

Historic route number: 80

Start as for 'The Liberator', and follow the route to the point before stepping left onto the slab. Continue straight up right of the bolts on the face to the finishing crack.

Historic route number: 80a

A superb route between 'Plummet' and 'Maggie' is a small buttress with a bolt at 20'. Climb directly up this buttress past the bolt (crux), to a ledge. Step right and follow groove up to bulging final wall. Move awkwardly up this to top.

Historic route number: 89

Hike to the base of the cliff (you can either go around the slabs to the left, or solo up). There's an easy way which takes about 20 minutes from the campsite, ask someone to show you (GPS track as of December 2019: http://tinyurl.com/wcnx8ya)

Fish’s 40th birthday present. The rock is solid with excellent friction but sharp. As it hasn't seen much traffic yet, take a helmet.

1. 35 meters. Starting at the belay anchor (two bolts) at the top of the easy slabs, up and then leftwards to a grassy ledge with the anchor on its right. Mantle no.1 onto the ledge.

2. 30 meters. Traverse right from the ledge then follow the bolts to an anchor on a slab. Mantle no.2 around the 5th bolt. Beware of the loose flake after this, don’t pull too hard on it.

3. 20 meters. Straight up to the slight overhang, Mantle No.3, then traverse a few meters leftwards to find an anchor on the arrete.

4. 30 meters. Up the arete and then traverse right past a big block (mantle on this if you feel like) resting on the slab. The anchor bolts are on the giant boulder.

Bring 11 quickdraws + biners for the anchors.

You can abseil down the route with a 60m rope (don't forget knots as some of the abseils are nearly exactly 30m). You can also walk down (climber's left after going behind the huge rock).

Start on the prominent finger ledge then move to jug just below the grassy ledge. Move right and continue on thin slab to finish. Alternative is to move left on upper slab.

Named after our "cook" who needed instruction on how to cook scrambled eggs..

Start to the right of the tree. Using the tree is cheating but you can use the flake on the ground for your feed. Pull up then climb up the big holes and finish rightwards to a lower-off.

100meters of bliss on the left side of Nzaui - the big orange corner.

Scramble up the initial slabs on the far right for about 40m to get to below the headwall. From here climb up a short steep wall for 3m on the left end and move left and drop down onto a big grassy platform.

1. 40m 14 Traverse upwards and rightwards to the base of the orange corner. Protection maybe be found by digging under grass.

2. 50m 18 Go up the crack using all techniques you like. Belay at ledge and tree.

3. 50m 18 Continue up the crack in the same way, moving out onto the slab at the first corner and then back in. Belay round the second corner at the tree.

Great protection which just appears where needed. Standard Kenyan bush climbing rack up to DMM No4, less the panga and doom.

Descent - First party walked to further up to the base of the slabs above and traversed (climbers) left to a gully where a short (in height) game path leads to a bigger path down the gully.

A better option might be to either -

Abseil off the belay trees.

or

Climb/scramble/bushwack directly to the left of the final tree onto the top of the orange face and move left and abseil down the obvious chimney left of the climb.

A short sport climb that needs cleaning. Not clear where the route goes at the second bolt, you can either traverse back left from the ledge, or skip the bolt going straight up the slab.

Pitch 1

Blocky start moving left towards sheer face.

Make fun moves up rail on steep wall using crack on right side until you move over top to platform.

Terrifying on FA thanks to wobbling death bloc which has now been kindly removed by second.

Pitch 2

Make relatively easy moves up, trending left using crack on right for gear.

Move over top into “The Dance Arena” and belay at a convenient spot to your liking.

Pitch 3

An unlikely route takes you left over some challenging smooth slabby climbing where you need to earn you gear. Could be described as a tad run out.

Trend left and then move up to below overhang and traverse right on large ledge. We would advise moving around first corner to larger belay area to set up better for pitch 4.

Pitch 4

Straight up from belay with multiple options available depending on your preference for moisture.

Continue straight through even wetter section until you come over ledge to 4th class section which takes you to the top. Options to belay at top of crux or higher up.

See trip report here: https://www.mck.or.ke/new-climbs/the-shnoz-5-9-330m-at-ololokwe/

Alternate direct start: climb straight up to the palm tree just beneath the start of the third pitch, following the obvious nose that joins the feature above. 5.8x, second half of pitch unprotected but solid rock. Avoids the traverse pitch. (FA: James Mixon, Nicolle Richards, December 2019)

An adventurous climb, generally on reasonable rock, that could be done without a bivouac by a fast party. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp you arrive just above a broad saddle between the main cliff and a small outlying hill. Head up on faint paths directly up to pale, easy-angled slabs at the foot of the face. Scramble up the slabs, traverse L into trees, start about 10m further L, on a shady ledge below a R-facing flake crack.

1. 55m. 5a. Up the flake that works its way up R-wards. Near top of flake a medium-large cam may be placed. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out L on to the face and start a heady climb up and L to a block on a ledge, here a weighted sling and/or small wires offer some protection. Climb first L-wards then directly up a poorly protectable slab aiming towards a lone palm tree and excellent belay. Very poorly protected, sustained pitch, mainly on excellent rock.

2. 40m. 4c. Continue directly up passing several trees to broken grassy ledges, flake belay.

3. 55m. 4b/c. Up wide grassy, slabby corner R of belay for 10m. Move R below roof then up R-wards towards a small tree. Up to slabs and across these, poor protection, to chimney. Up this on poor rock and grass to jammed block belay.

4. 40m. Move up then R onto a slab, which is followed R-wards, with no protection, to a shattered rock corner. Up this steeply to ledge with spike belay.

5. 45m, 4b Climb up to the L, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a short steep black wall with pockets for both protection and hands. Move up L to ledges. After a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up and L to tree belay in grassy bay. A short 20m. scramble through grass leads to the base of the walls left of a great open diedre, possible bivvy site. Block belay.

6. 45m. 4c Approach the wall at a small shelf and traverse L 5m. Make your way up and L to the obvious tree.

7. 30m. 4b. Continue up and slightly L to tree on next ledge system below final headwall.

8. 30m. Scramble L to ledges with small trees, possible bivvy site.

9. 35m. 4a. At L end of bivvy ledges step down and L onto wall to gain good holds, up these onto a slab then R facing corner and the top.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski )

Likely has been a repeat ascent of Brothers in Arms.

Repeating groups should be able to complete the climb without an overnight bivouac. (Editors note – One person who has climbed it twice bivvied ¾ of the way up both times)

1. 170ft 5.9/HVS 5a/18. Start up an obvious flake that works its way from left to right. There is limited protection at the top of the flake, unless you have very large Camelot’s (#5-6). Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out left on to the face and start a heady climb towards any protection you can find. There are a couple placements for micro cams or TCUs, but they are sparse. Work back right on a poorly protectable slab climbing aiming towards a lone palm tree. A perfect vertical crack above the tree provides solid placements for a gear anchor. Quite cheeky.

2. 175ft 5.7/ Severe 4c. Work up and right from the tree anchor on easy but flaky climbing that works its way towards obvious trees. Potential crack placements exist, if willing to excavate, but the climbing is easy enough to pretty well run it all the way to the trees. Proceed to a second group of trees. Work right towards to a blocky shelf that provides decent protection. Take caution not to launch any of the loose blocks on this section. Continue up from the shelf slight right to a small flake; be cautious of smaller loose blocks below flake. Traverse left of flake to anchor on the obvious blocky shelf.

3. 160ft 5.7 Severe 4b/c. Move up and right onto a steep slab, which is followed, with no protection, up to the right until a move across right gains access to a chimney. This is followed to a large jammed block belay.

4. 120ft 5.7/Severe 4b. Traverse right from the belay at an incline on loose shattered rock, little options for decent protection, reach the left hand side of the main wall. Then go up the vertical scree until you belly flop onto a flat area with an obvious rock for safe belay.

5. 170ft 5.8 /Severe 4b. Climb up to the left, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a small wall with pockets for both gear and hands. Move up left and after a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up left to belay.

6. 140ft Scramble. Move up from belay onto easy ground. Which is followed up and left through vegetation to a large flake belay in the middle of the left hand wall of the huge diedre.

7. 170ft 5.8/ Very Severe 4c. Approach the wall at a small shelf and proceed to traverse left 15 feet. Direct your gaze up the vertical wall and indulge your eyes in the glory revealed, protection & solid holds! Make your way up and left to the obvious tree and large boulder. As this is the first pitch to not crumble in your hands, take your time to relish in the climb. For those seeking exposure, grasp onto one of the many solid pink crystallized quartz clusters and glance downward from this vertical face to the 1000 feet view below.

8. 170ft Scramble. Move up left of the mini over hang and then pick your way up and left towards the tree lined corner of the bivvy site.

9. 120ft 4a/b. Exit bivvy ledge on the left out onto the slabs. Traverse up and left on short rock walls and grassy ledges to below final steep rock wall. Balance up on good holds onto unprotected slabs above, which are followed to a good belay on a large block. Summit.

The original route on the Mouse climbed the face just left of the N arete using a mixture of aid and free climbing. Subsequently climbed free, with new bolts added in 2019 now making it a very safe sport climb.

Start at a chimney at the Left side of the W face.

1. 10m. Climb the chimney then traverse left to easier ground leading to ledge, bolt belays.

2. 20m. Climb the steepening slab then wall above, old bolts and pegs in place, on creaky flakes.

Approach the deep chimney through dense bush. Move left to a secondary chimney which peters out swiftly.

1. 4b (20 m) Climb the chimney, move right onto a slab and climb this to a belay on a ledge.

2. 5a (20 m) Move left to a crack, flanked on its left side by a simple slab. Climb this and surmount the capping overlap on its far right hand side. Move easily to the top. Descent: Scramble/climb to the top, from where an aerial is visible, from which a 4x4 track leads easily back to the road.

Approach the prow of the buttress and step right to a steep slab with an obvious step at 1 foot.

1. 4b (20 m) Climb this slab, moving right to place gear in the flake on the right hand side. Traverse back left 8m then move up continuation slabs to a large vegetated ledge, walk up and left, up a straightforward gully to a large cave. Belay here.

2. 5a (20 m) Move right over blocks, then diagonally up and right across pockets to a sloping ledge below a capping overlap. Climb this via the well-protected crack, to top. Descend via the 4x4 track.

Furthest left climb on the main wall of baboon cliff. Fun moves with two cruxes at the third and fourth bolt and then again at the final overhang.

To the left of modern warrior, route bolted by Kristofer Fiore. Not sure about difficulty

Follow bolts directly, with crux in the dark section at the top. Becomes 5c if you move left of the bolts at the crux

1. 5a (30 m) Start in the centre of the broken buttress. Climb the crack in the right-hand wall. Follow the crack direct on immaculate jams to gear. Go through a hole at the top.

2. 4a (10 m) Descend slightly to a small tree. Climb the broken and vegetated slabs behind the tree until you reach a steep corner. Climb this to the top. Descent: Abseil from a tree at crag-edge, roughly 20m left of the top of ‘Tim Started’, or walk out through bushes on the right-hand side of crag.

Short, punchy route, with some fun laybacking to an overhanging finish. Slopey holds at the top require you to keep cool and find the best spots and body positions for the clips. The furthest right on the crag.

Pegs useful. The walls R of White Owl Chimney. Halfway up, an obvious bottomless chimney is gained and followed to the top. Start near Rend of terrace and climb a groove to tree at its top (15m.). Move L and climb a shallow groove till a thin traverse R is possible to a scant ledge leading up to a niche (35m.). Follow cracks to ledge and tree (35m.). Climb an overhanging groove till easy ground on L of the fault leads to top (45m.). Descend by abseil starting from a good tree on rim of the L wall of Ivory Corner.

A serious, sustained climb.

Start one m. L of Ivory Corner and climb a slab directly for 35m. up a brown streak, passing the R-hand end of an overlap at 20m. Traverse 5m. L till easier rock leads to a bushy bay at far R end of terrace (45m.). Step R from bay onto a wall and climb a steepening to loose blocks. Move R, then up and R into Ivory Corner; a messy pitch. Good stance at a pinnacle R of comer (35m.). Place a runner in the comer, move down and swing onto a steep grey slab on L. Traverse L to arete and climb this to a bolt and peg slightly higher. A steep wall (VI+) then jugs lead to a quartz hole and thread runner. Hand traverse L and swing onto a ledge above the big roof. Now L, then up and back R to a small stance on a sloping ledge (30m.). Climb wall above stance for 8 m. to a resting place. Move delicately L and up to excellent runners in a crack above a rocking-block. From here climb direct (VII-) to a resting place R of a big detached flake. (This section can be avoided by traversing 3m. L from rocker, climbing (VI+) to a ledge, and R to the detached flake). Bridge up, step Rand climb cracks to a ledge below a comer. Bridge up comer to a loose block and roof, traverse L to easier ground and climb to the great horizontal break in the cliff. Belay on white ledge to R, pegs in place (40m.). Surmount roof just L of stance using hidden pocket (protection peg 2m. L), climb good grey rock to a steep wall, move 2m. L, then climb to better holds and a resting place on the R (V I, steep and poorly protected). Ascend 3m. to a better ledge then move 3m. R to easier ground; go up good rock to small stance below a little bulge/ roof (40m.). Climb bulge to easier ground and the top (10m.). Descend as for Ivory Corner.

Climb the obvious seem that is about 30m to the right of Alex's Incisor. The line is clear in the topo.

Start at a recessed ledge. Gain slab on L. Move R and climb very steep crack, moving L at the top (crux) to an easy finish.

2 bolts half a meter down from the edge 2m right of Hakuna Coffee use the same safety bolt as Hakuna Coffee, EXPOSED CLIPPING use safety bolt. Start between 2 trees, on the right of the groove follow this or a direct variation up the salamander wall.

A sport route, possibly without top anchors. Beware of peeling flakes.

A classic for the area. Start on the SW of Dwa Rock in between a cave. Must climb in two stages, 1st up onto a big ledge. Then traverse to the left up to a big crack which you follow up to the top. Take caution of bees!

This is on the West side of Dwa rock, to the left of Dwa Rock 1. This is a straight climb up, little protection available. Classic for the area to date.