Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ Wied il-Mielaħ Arch | |||||
4+ | Gone Left
| 19m | |||
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ East Side | |||||
4+ | ★★ Salt Pools
| 9m | |||
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ Spunky Arête / Cave Area | |||||
4+ | Fisherman's Friend
| 22m | |||
4+ | Come up Roses
| 20m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Italian Walls | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Kerb Crawler
Pull on to the short wall above and right of the archway. Move left up the ramp to a large ledge with a cut block propped against the wall. Up the short wall above | 22m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Easter Parade
The grey wall, finishing over two large flakes | 17m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Pisces 2
The orange grey border to a traverse and up the column beyond. | 30m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4b | Capricorn
The black wall just right of the orange, passing a faint leftward crack. | 25m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Flakeout Walls | |||||
4+ | ★★ VPL
| 12m | |||
4+ | ★★ Caraboo
| 12m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Freedom Walls | |||||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Freedom
The leftward crack/rampline, approached by a traverse in from the right, due to brambles. Enjoyable line with hard finish. | 20m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Kissing the Pink
Above the rectangular tunnel exit, the crack and groove passing a brown stain | 18m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Fisherman
The wall just right of Kissing the Pink | 18m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Belladonna
The leftward corner and slab above, just left of the brown scoop. | 28m | |||
Gozo San Blas Tower of Power | |||||
4+ | Lembuba
| ||||
Gozo Black Slabs | |||||
4+ | ★★ You don't know what you have
| 14m, 6 | |||
4+ | ★ Graveey Granules
| 14m | |||
Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Bouldering | |||||
V0- | Walk Unafraid
The wall just left of the scrappy corner FA: John Moulding, 1999 | ||||
V0- | Curl Up and Die
The scrappy corner FA: John Codling, 1999 | ||||
V0- | Daysleeper
Diagonal roof crack just right of the roof hole FA: John Moulding, 1999 | ||||
V0 | REM
Climb the righthand end of a low bulge. A long reach for good horizontal holds FA: John Codling, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Careless Whispers
The vertical crack 2m right on flat holds. FA: John Codling, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Firehouse
The overhang breached by two superb cracks. This is the left hand. FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 1998 | ||||
Malta Wied Żnuber | |||||
{UK} S UKT:4b | ★★ Comba
Climb up to the flake to find a rusty sur- prise behind it. Continue to a good jug and straight to the top. | 17m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Xita mielha
Start at the left side of the dent in the rock face and climb straight up. FA: William Hicklin | 16m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Bubun
Climb up to a small roof over which you will find a rest. Continue up through a series of good pockets FA: William Hicklin | ||||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Risq ix-xita
The start is usually damp but continues easily following the crack line. Heavily vegetated. FA: William Hicklin | 15m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Falling up
A straightforward climb. Well protected all the way up. FA: William Hicklin | 16m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Medusa
Climb up to the right facing crack line and continue along it for most of the way up. Protection is not too abundant or satisfyingly solid. FA: William Hicklin | 17m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Bajtra | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Rigour Mortis
| 22m | |||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Room with a view
| 22m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | ★ Nomis Nedla Inter Remus
| 18m | |||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | ★★ Jitterbug
| 22m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★★ Footloose
| 22m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | A Bridge Too Far!
| 18m | |||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Velcro
| 18m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Seaside Rendezvous
| 22m | |||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Ibiza
| 22m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall | |||||
{UK} S UKT:4c | Pilar Box Descent
1
4a
2
S 4c
3
4a
4
4a
The exit for Continuation WallLow Level and Central Traverses. It is an adventure more than a climb! Can also be used as a descent - fishermen have been doing it for centuries! Start at the large platform below Bamboo Ledge 1 - 4a. Walk righ to Pillar Box Cave Slab, up this for 10m to Bamboo Ledge. 2 - 4c. Cross PBC Slab, go up and right to a steel bollard and a broken easy ramp leading right to the vegetated bay of PBC. 3 - 4a. Walk into and up the floor and back narrows of the cave, scramble up the righthand wall and through the pillar-box. 4 - 4a. Follow cut holds up the prow, left of the small terrace. | 100m, 4 | |||
Malta Wied Babu Bobo's Block | |||||
4c | Bobo's Corner
First route to the left when looking at the bolder. Start between the vegetation and the corner of the block | 10m | |||
4c | ★★★ John Graham
Start under the little bolder and up over the roof | 10m | |||
Malta Wied Babu Diamond Buttress | |||||
4c | The Diamond Facet
| 22m | |||
4c | Owls Nest Traverse
| 35m | |||
Malta Wied Babu Central Chimneys | |||||
{UK} VD UKT:4c | ★★★ Central Chimneys
From the vegetated terrace follow the cracks and blocks up the overlap. | 24m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Maltese Boys Climb
Climb the wall to the left of the leaning block to reach its vegetated top | 10m | |||
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | ★ Enigma
Climb up to the crescent shaped vegetated ledge at half height. Move up and left across the steep slab then back right to finish 3m left of the curving crack. FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966 | 20m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Elektra
Up the curving crack to reach a line which traverses left across the Enigma slab, finishing up easier ground well to the left. FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966 | 25m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★ Curving Crack
Follows the tempting, open curving flake crack, majestically lay-backing the overlap using hexes and cams. A classic. The Italian Military extended the route, starting from a ledge 7m down (good) and unnecessarily bolted it to death (bad). FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966 | 23m | |||
Malta Wied Babu West Side Story | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Raiders of the Parked Car
| 22m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★★ Nookie Cushion
| 22m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Potho
| ||||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves | |||||
{UK} S UKT:4b | ★★ Swiss Kiss
Scramble to the floor of the orange cave. From its left end climb up to an obvious crackline, following it past a cave on the left, finishing up a cosy groove. | 30m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | A Scrappy-Do
Climb the left buttress of the main cave to the base of the tall scoop then trend left to finish up the sharp wall. | 20m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★★★ Twin Caves Pillar
A classic that follows the crack and left slanting groove on the right of the pillar. | 12m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★★ Snowman
| 25m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★ Stonker
FA: Andy Warrington | 27m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★ Leftways Crack
The left sloping crack on the buttress to the right is climbed until a step right to a flake can be made. Mantelshelf over a bulge to gain the final slab. | 28m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Commando Ratlines | |||||
{UK} S UKT:4c | ★★★ Commando Ratlines
| 30m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Boobs and Snatch
Up the right of the slab to the corner. Exit up the right side of the deep little cave and up the second corner | 15m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4c | Crete for Cretans
| 25m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Stone Walling
| 10m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Terry's Cave | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Terry's Cave Direct
| 20m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Quarry steps | |||||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Commando I
| 30m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | ★ Chi Commander, Fire Engine
| 30m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Commando III
| 30m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Corona Wall | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★★ Antivaxxers Unite
| 24m | |||
Malta Xaqqa | |||||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Short Slab Two Point Five
The slab topped by a smooth white section | 12m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Stone's Throw
Climb easily to a ledge then up a shallow groove right of loose rock. Unprotectable. | 14m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Just Short Slab
The broken-up white section topped by the brown slab | 16m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Boomerang
Climb up the small inverted 'V' roof then directly up. | 17m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Hello Frenchie
Start beneath the right hand edge of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Up to the smooth section and finish over the chossy bulge. | 20m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4c | Short Slab Four
Takes the leftward curving wide crack upwards. Finish above on dodgy rock. | 22m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Short Slab Five
| 22m | |||
{UK} MVS UKT:4c | Moody Blues
The slab with two light grey patches topped with a brown patch, the finish is traditionally loose | 10m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | The Thread
Start at the top of Xaqqa Chimney by a carved out thread belay. Take the broken brownish slab to a finish above on loose rock. | 25m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Chimney Buttress
From the bottom of Xaqqa Chimney climb the slab for 10m then left to an earthy groove. Up this to a shallow niche and beyond on grotty rock. | 28m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | Teamed Up
Immediately left of the bottom of Xaqqa Chimney, take the brown slab with a small broken patch. Continue beyond passing an undercut niche on the grotty rock. | 29m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Beavis and Butthead
Takes the vertical crack on the brown slab. Up to the earthy groove above, step left and pass beneath the overhangs, trending left all the way to the top. | 29m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Quarry Dynamite
Take the rotten looking wall, passing a right hand slanting wide crack. Up the middle of the slab above, trending right. Climb the grotty looking undercut overhang. | 33m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Wall and Groove
Just left of QD, up the rotten looking wall then a shallow broken groove. Easy but friable rock above. | 34m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Via Destra - variation
Follow a groove with twin cracks, passing two grey rugosities on your left. Climb to the foot of the overhangs and trend right, following a crack underneath the overhangs to reach EoD. | 36m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Partially Psycho
From the centre of Motorcycle Slab take the orange slab to join the right hand crack of the rightward thin cracks. Usual easy finish. Sparse gear! | 42m | |||
{UK} HVS UKT:4c | Via Direttisima
From the centre of the slab, climb to the broken ledge out left. Up from its right hand edge to follow the rightwards twin cracks and ramble to the top. | 45m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Pushbike
Start up the orange rib, past the broken ledge then take the thin vertical crack above, step left at its end and follow a narrow slab above, finishing directly over the top curving overlap. | 44m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Via Sinistra
On the left edge of Motorcycle Slab is a vegetated vertical crack. Take this all the way, finishing rightwards following the top curving overlap. | 44m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Airy Breeze
The brown slab topped by a shiny grey patch. | 48m | |||
{UK} MVS UKT:4b | Breezy Rib
The pleasant airy rib to the left | 48m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Showell Styles
1
S 4a
35m
2
S 4b
37m
You can climb the 1st pitch (bolted) of the Xaqqa Sea Cliff Traverse to reach the 1st stance which has a fixed belay. The 2nd stance is on a small platform below some cracks and embedded roots of a tree | 72m, 2 | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Tomb Buttress Area | |||||
{UK} HS UKT:4c | Carob Shade
A few metres left of the tomb like structure in the middle of a buttress, climb past a large thread to a white niche. Up this onto slabs, passing a large hole near the top | 22m | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Broken Buttress | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Dragonfly
| 18m | |||
{UK} MVS UKT:4b | The way of the dragon
| 18m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | ★★ Green Flash
| 20m | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Sphinx Buttress | |||||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Dora C
| 22m | |||
{UK} HS UKT:4b | Shotgun Alley
| 18m | |||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Maltese Connection
| 18m | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Cave Buttress | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Noel's Folly
| 15m | |||
{UK} HS UKT:4c | The French Connection
| 18m | |||
{UK} VS UKT:4c | Spaghetta
| 22m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Villa Crag | |||||
{UK} S UKT:4b | Mantelshelf Wall
The wall and overlap just right of Little Bulger. Start at the recess on the right. | 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Hangover Buttress | |||||
{UK} VS UKT:4b | ★★ False Start
The pocketed wall and small overhang directly behind the WD No. 24 marker stone. | 10m |