Routes in Malta for selected grade

The best DWS in the area featuring a 4m roof and a very steep wall, relatively safe as a solo. Start at the sea-washed ledges. Cross the large roof 3m up trending right. Continue up the steep ground going rightwards to the finish of Swinger. Superb and pumpy.

From the little cave, move left and pull through the overhang at its narrowest point. Step right onto the start of a diagonal flake. Step left to easier ground where the rock changes character to bubblierrock. Up this.

A very physical overhang climb following an “obvious” line of holds.

A direct on The Division Bell. Takes the steep crack directly above the black slabs. Nuts about Rock 7 size are crucial

Start in back left of cave. Up, then right and all the way through the roof, passing the wafers to anchor at the lip. Must do!

Start in back right of cave. Up and left to join TSDE at the wafers.

Open Project

More of an extended boulder problem than a route. It takes the very shallow scoop and blunt rib just left of the stepped pedestal. Excellent micro-edging despite the contrived start. The crux is avoiding the temptation to step off to the right in the first 5m. Finish up Motorpsycho or traverse off right at the break.

Climb the blank looking slab. Ascend the slabs just right of the corner using bush protection! Go right to gain sloping pockets at a change in angle (Friend 4 useful). Step up to a good pocket, right into an 'L' leaning groove then to the roof. Traverse left to easy ground then over the left hand end of the steep barrier and 'hunk up the munge' to the top.

The lefthand section of a bulging wall above a shelf. Sharp pockets and no gear

A crucifixion just right of the crescent. Span minimalist tufas and visualise a long reach to underclings. The rest is easy by comparison. The grade is hight dependent.