Routes in Melanesia for selected grade

Pitch 1 - 7a, Pitch 1+2 - 7b+

The direct very thin line underneath BB. Stick clip high first bolt and good luck trying to clip the 2nd, if you get to the 3rd bolt it’s all over, finish up BB to top.

Great technical climbing up the wall to a chossy cave before the final layback crux. A Bargo test piece!

An excellent intricate and sustained line! The original line started from the small ledge 7m above the main hang out ledge, hence the belay bolts. The direct start was added later and definitely completes the entire line, it goes at 27. Aid through the crux with relative ease to climb the main route from the ledge.

Punch out the boulder problem, reset at the ledge and remember to have fun.

2m L of MP at the L side of the big circle/shield feature Test yourself on this thin beast.

Classic, Mega steep face climbing, maybe harder. Named after a funky sexual dance move and the hip thrust needed at the crux. 3m R of IB. Up the orange wall past the break and onto the beautiful orange headwall past some powerful boulder moves. 10 bolts, DRBB.

Stolen from Patto by some marauding cross border folks in mistake for an ascent of The Nosebleed section. To be honest it had gone untouched for 5 years. 2m R of Tahitian Thrust, up the initial wall and slightly diagonal R to the break below the grey streak. Up this past the cool tufa like feature to the 2nd break, slightly up L and up the feature grey/black wall. 8RBs, DRBB

Fantastic, pumpy face climbing. Named after the 2nd ascensionist bled all over the climb. Start as for RBM follow this to the 1st bolt above the diagonal (ACP) Up ACP/grey streak for 3 bolts to the top break before stepping R up the pumpy headwall all the way to the top. 13RBs, DRBB.

Kent said “26”, but he thinks everything is 26 lol. 1m R of RBM below the undercling flake. Up to this then pull over L onto the ramp, up the super thin wall and slightly L to join TNBS to the top. 12 bolts, DRBB.

Stumping hard crux, may be harder, Ben crushed it in before the baby came. 2m R of TN. Straight up the face to the break. Boulder the hard crux here through to the next thin break. Head slight L along this to the flake/corner almost in TM. Pull the overlap and move slightly R and then directly up the wall to finish at the anchors for TM. 9FHs, DRBB.

Another 20m down the gully R of JP, Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the bottom of the feature where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 5RBs DRBB