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La Cueva del Tecolote All Sport climbing 26 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 14
  • Ascents: 424
  • Aka: The Cave
26
YDS
5.10b5.10d5.11b5.11d5.12b5.12d5.13b5.13d5.14b

Seasonality

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Description

A crag with 2 distinct caves and some face climbing. On the left you find a small cave whereas the right one is bigger offers some steep climbing on tufas high above the canyon.

Approach

Hike into the canyon as for Animas but continue down the road, cross the wash. After that the road starts to climb a little bit again and when it goes down again you will see cairns on your right, follow his trail up to the cave.

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.12a Lawton's route Sport 2

First pitch 11d. Hike 10 minutes down the hill from the Tecalote cavd to the obvious orange streak up the wall that cuts up the whole wall.

Set: Mark Grundon & Karla Moya, 2012

2
5.12a ★★ Codyote Sport 18m, 8

Left of the small cave, traverses right and then left again and up to the "double tufa".

Set: Cody Sims, Libby Sauter & Mark Grundon, 2011

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3
5.12c Ruta del Amor Sport

Empieza al fondo de la cueva sigue unas plaquetas negras por el techo. Starts on the right wall of the small cave but left of Tu Felicidad and traverses the roof to continue out to the same anchor as Tu Felicidad.

Set: Curtis Love

4
5.11d ★★★ Tu Felicidad Sport 20m, 7

Starts on the right side inside the cave and leads out to an anchor just next to the big tufa.

5
5.12b ★★ Rocket Man Sport 25m

Follow black bolts to overhanging tufa system.

Set: Curtis Love

6
5.12a ★★ Chavacano Sport 20m, 6

The second route outside the right side of the small cave. Climbs a left-facing dihedral that leads to a short overhang.

7
5.12b ★★ Missing Hanger Sport

Recently repaired and made safe.

8
5.12c ★★ Limestoner Sport

Set: Andres Muller, 1999

9
5.13+ Culo de Fuego Sport

A potantially dangerous fall makes this othereise great line unpopular.

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10
5.12c ★★★ La creacion Sport

Shares anchores whith violencia

FA: andres basich

Set: andres basich, 2020

11
5.13a ★★★ La Violencia Sport 20m

Second route in the left inside of the main cave. Dyno to a very violent move to reach the tufa 4 feet off the wall. Finish at the Tecalote anchors up and left.

Set: Rodman, 1999

12
5.12c Golden Man / La Espiral Sport 12m

At the very back of the cave,start below the obvious spiral offwidth, fight your way to the anchors out 30 feet from the ground.

13
5.13a ★★★ El Techo Del Tecolote Sport 30m

Empieza a la izquierda de Wirrarika y despues se junta con La Violencia. Gym climbing at its best. Start below the first draw wrapped around a hole and go straight through thd cave.This thing keeps you horizontal the whole way. A classic tick to be sure.Finish out the left side of the czve at the same anchors as a La Violencia.

Set: Jay Smith, 1998

14
5.13b ★★★ Huiratica / Wixarika / Wirrarika Sport 30m

Amazing steep pockets and sloppers starting on the right side of the cave. Pull out of the left side of the cave to some technical climbing to anchors. Long and sustained.

Set: Andres Muller, 1999

15
5.12c ★★★ Nosferatus Sport 20m, 8

Starts in the middle of the cave with nice tufas. The first route in the cave and the one to do asap.Think 3d people.

FA: Ulric Rousseau & Alex Patinio, 1998

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16
5.14b ★★★ H-Bomb Sport 35m

The hardest lkne to date.Traversing start crosses Kika shredder to arrive at the "H"shaped pocket.You may want to change ropes here to avoid drag.Clayton repeated it in 2016 after two key hold broke at the two cruxes and upped the grade 5.14b.

Set: Clayton Reagan

17
5.13b ★★ Kika Shredder Sport 25m

Hard moves off the ground to classic traversinv left on small pinches and crimps.Crosses H-Bomb arojnd the 4th bolt.Stay alive gor the surprise move at top .

18
5.12d ★★★ Soul Power Sport 30m

Nice sustained pump up the main steepneess.Co mitting moves to transition and large throws,kneebars ,tufas and great pockets make this a classic not to miss it.

FA: James Carss

19
5.13c Pure pintxe sloper / Andrada Power Sport 35m

Dani Andrada climbed everything in the cave in a day,including Nosferatu barefoot,then decided to bolt a new route. A massive kmpressive line out the inverted roof.Sent the same day.

Set: Dani Andrada, 2013

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20
5.10b ★★★ Culo de Merlin Sport 25m

A must do for everyone not alergic to bats.Start on the lower left part of the upper csve and follow the bolts through the tunnel to exit on top of the upper wall. Mega Classic.

21
5.13c ★★★ Chi Sport

Steep is the game , long is the name.Bring all you got,cause it doesn't stop for 130 feet . Climbs thd cdnter of the upper 45 degree wall.

22
5.13b ★★ El Gallo de Oro Sport

Same start as el Chi but trends left at the crux into Tension Sexual. Same anchors as tension sexual.

23
5.13d Tensión Sexual Sport 35m

Empieza hasta la derecha de la cueva y se cruza con CHI. Traverses the roof and crosses Chi and finishes near Puro Pintxe Slopper.

FA: Dani Andrada, 2012

24
5.13c Dial m for monkey Sport 40m

Looks steep and amazing.

25
5.11a ★ Super Chongo Sport 20m

Left most route to climb the outer right arête of the caves.The route is ok dispite loose looking rock,but it gets you to the upper cave.Keep an eye out for the anchors out right. Untying at the anchors anv having a look around : you won't regret it !

26
5.13a Super Super Chongo Sport 30m

Continue straight unstread of traversing to the Super Chongo anchors for more climbing on steeper tock and harder moves.

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5.10b ★★★ Culo de Merlin
5.11d ★★★ Tu Felicidad
5.12c ★★★ Nosferatus
5.14b ★★★ H-Bomb

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Eugenio Garza on ★★★ Nosferatus 5.12c - saltomsn.jpg

★★★ Tu Felicidad 5.11d - felicidad8.jpg

Marco de la Fuente de Santos on ★★★ Tu Felicidad 5.11d - felicidad7.jpg

Marco de la Fuente de Santos on ★★★ Tu Felicidad 5.11d - felicidad2.jpg

Fri 2 Jun
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