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description

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

Route history

Jul 2016First ascent: Roman Ammann

Warnings

20 Dec 2020 Flora and Fauna: gorse at top Resolved

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.89100, 174.83574

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
20 [19 - 20] -- grAId
23 Andy Baird

ethic

Routes are a mix of sport, mixed and trad, was originally developed for dry tooling but all routes have been free climbed. No retro bolting of trad climbs without first ascent confirmation. Since it was a working quarry there are still loose rocks from blasting, but a solid wall is slowly emerging.

inherited from Maungarei Springs

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 62 from 69 ratings.

Difficulty - 21

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 3 ratings.

Suggested Grade

20
21

Based on 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 20
Flash 16
Red point 57
Top rope 1
Pink point 7
Tick 38
Attempt 61

Comment keywords

fingers jamming lip face feet rest crack hands undercling dry sloper short balancy easy pockets technical layback enjoyable stoked good beautiful cool perfect great fun nice tough sustained pumped solid hard crux desperate peeled off scary fall

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